Macpherson

Yep, I got a link to these from a thread on here not that long ago, previously I could only get the much shorter ones that Rob's talking about, having said that they don't go in the Granberg as that requires bits that thread in as opposed to being held by collets. The Granberg sharpener is a great tool and gets milling chains bang on and although I've used it freehand many times to quickly touch a normal chain, the dremel at 33,000 rpm is much faster and sits nicer in the hand. When I googled the Granberg just now I got 2 results for rpm 14,000 and 24,000, I don't have it with me at the moment but I'll need to put a tacho on it at some point just out a curiosity. Cheers.

Hi, I've been looking into water jet cutting {for metal} but while looking online I noticed some stuff about folks cutting wood this way, perhaps if you could get it to a size that the machines would accept it may be worth a try, interestingly enough Nottingham seems to have several companies and the university involved in doing this type of work, ....just a thought.

Dremel 1453 Chainsaw Sharpening Attachment with 4 Grinding Stones, Guage & Guide | eBay There you go, the diamond rotary files are much better as they don't lose their diameter through use but you'll get a fair few sharpens with the stones, cheers.

Items in Gloster Tooling store on eBay ! I use these in a dremmel fitted with a sharpening angle guide, a 240v in the workshop asnd a 12v with a power pack for when I'm out and a Granberg also with diamond rotary files for the milling chains. A rotary FILE is still a file and these leave a superb finish and you'd need to be extremely heavy handed to cause any blueing of the teeth. The small burr that can form on the top edge of the tooth also happens when hand filing and traditionally would simply be knocked off with the wooden handle of the file once the tooth had been sharpened. Most of the firewood I cut {for myself} is clean, but I can totally imagine the frustration of trying to make a living cutting firewood with stuff that's been dragged out of a wood with the bark full of mud and stones, for that reason most of the wood I mill whether by bandsaw or chainsaw gets the bark removed first, not a nice job and I would imagine totally impractical for the OP. Cheers.

Hi, I would agree that sycamore isn't very durable outside but I've used it fairly often , if it's any help I coat it with many thin coats of rubbed on chinese tung oil thinned 50/50 with clear spirit based wood preserver as opposed to white spirit and a touch of oil paint driers {terebene} to get it to dry more quickly, the main problem with linseed oil is that there's a good chance of it getting mildew and turning black. cheers.

Hi, assuming nothing is damaged or missing what about a slight rag left on the edge of the blade from the sharpening process, it wouldn't take much to cause the prob you've described, cheers.

If it's any help I use driers with pure tung oil which speeds up drying time considerably and stops the finish feeling rubbery, I find this makes a fairly big difference, cheers. https://www.manomano.co.uk/catalogue/various/rustins-paint-driers-250ml-blend-of-chemicals-to-speed-the-drying-of-oil-2293713?g=1&referer_id=537135&gclid=Cj0KEQjwxPbHBRCdxJLF3qen3dYBEiQAMRyxS1dl8xvssqOufUNhUiMemQI0fnr3hEm6hbRDidBbIkoaAohE8P8HAQ

Hi, I just get epoxy resin on ebay, it's readily available and not too expensive, cheers.

Yeah, I was surprised to be informed of this recently whist talking to a forestry manager about the timber they were harvesting near me, having said that it may just be going for sarking and strapping etc although it's normal to see 4 x 2" sticks etc in the local timber yard with very few growth rings, and it's just rubbish to work with in my opinion. I,m just about to start using some Douglas that was milled last year...beautiful wood...the trouble is that once you start using your own decent timber there's just no comparison to most of the stuff in the average builders merchants, cheers.

I know the FC supply Sitka to Jewsons and the likes for constructional use but personally I hate the stuff that's grown here, I would imaging it's probably completely different timber when grown in the far north as opposed to the soggy weeds that grow here in the west. Scots pine, Doug fir, and euro Larch if you can get it, are my favourites, cheers.

Good shout on the diamond bits, cheers

If the handle /tank is metal, I've had great results doing repairs to things that I would have previously considered scrap with this, hts 2000. If the alloy's not too corroded it's not difficult to do, although with magnesium alloy you need to be quick and very clean, stainless wire brush also needed but you can get what's needed for about a tenner all in, check it out, cheers. [ame] [/ame]

Really like my 266, cheers

Yeah sorry, as I said I've not used Dirko, But if it's recommended it must be fine........ ordinary general purpose silicone sealant however isn't good with petrol......and you might like the Hylomar if you get a new tube

Hi, just to say that although silicon sealer is great stuff unless there's been a new type developed that I'm unaware of it's dissolved by petrol. For many years while working on motorcycles I removed silicone sealers from engine parts the easy way by leaving it to perish by placing the components in a bath of petrol, it doesn't take long. I also often encountered endless fuel system problems where silicone sealants had been used on carbs and manifold joints etc...... of course most of these machines were 4 stroke, I wouldn't use silicone on any part of a 2 stroke that comes into contact with petrol. Personally I use Hylomar when assembling engines, for which the solvent is cellulose thinners, I haven't used Dirko so I can't comment but I did notice that it's silicone based and recommended for motorcycles ..... nearly all of which are now 4 stroke..... , perhaps you should try seeing what a soaking in petrol does to it. Just my take on the subject of silicone sealers, there are many different options out there... cheers. https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/adhesives-and-sealants/gaskets/hylomar-universal-blue-medium-40gm/p/HYL7032500K?utm_campaign=pla-Adhesives+%26+Sealants+-+&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping-pla&utm_keyword=HYL7032500K&istCompanyId=6aa6787b-063e-4414-802d-129f235df603&istItemId=aq

Hi, this might help if it's not what you've already got, looking forward to seeing how you get on, cheers http://thebakeliteradio.com/sawspares.com/Workshop%20Manual%20Stihl%20070%20090.pdf

done.

Hi, looks like an interesting project, is it easy to operate, cheers.

Sometimes one of these type connectors can be forced on and used as a tool to get them moving, but yes, get them out and put a slot in them, Insulated Crimp Ebb Blue Butt Pack of 100 | Crimp Terminals | Screwfix.com

That's fair comment but I've had a few Titan tools from screwfix that have lasted well and on the whole I'd have to say that even although they're competitively priced they're not complete crap. There's also do bosch, oregon makita and others if you don't like the Titan, cheers.

You could do worse than this for £50, powerfull enough for home use, shouldn't annoy the neighbours too much and a 2 year warranty....of course Stihl do something similar for 6 times the price....but they won't send it to you. Titan TTB355CHN 40.5cm 2000W Electric Chainsaw 230V | Electric | Screwfix.com

Yeah, very interesting video, thanks.

Yep had the same 3 times last November, let my pc guy see it before doing anything financial online, he told me that things like this go around and I should be ok as long as I don't open it or respond to it, not had it since but I gotta say that being of a certain age and not very clued up with these things I get left feeling extremely vulnerable ! cheers

Hi, I was taught that the scales of the cones of European larch are tightly grouped at their tips whereas with the jap larch the scales curl outwards or flare slightly at the tip, this of course may be of no help with hybrids. cheers.

Hi, it looks a bit like what happens with my flue, it looks from the photo like the single wall flue pipe next to the stove is made of two parts designed to be telescopic in order to let expansion and contraction to happen, when this moving joint gets coked up the flue pipe creeps out the top of the stove bit by bit, but it's hard to tell exactly from the pic, cheers.