Macpherson

Here's some more info, if it's got a serial number you can probably trace the year. https://history.stihl.com/1970-1979.aspx

Hi, here's a link to the original spec for the German one, yours is likely newer, I don't know when they started making them in Brazil, there's a few on ebay at the mo....cheers http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/1b34cb7aefe58c2f88256ba200160833

I'd love an AC30, after see your post I had a look on ebay..... what a price there getting.....if only I could go back 40 years ! There's a pair of these speakers on at the moment....15 mins left..cheers.

I don't know much detailed history but when I looked at my two this afternoon although one of then would seem to correspond to the badge format that I described, ironically the other confounds this theory by having a silver badge which reads..... HUSQVARNA 266 SE 1982 017568 ELECTROLUX MOTOR AB SWEDEN least I'm sure of the year !! Cheers.

HI, I've got two 266's.....as I understand it , they were made from 81 to 94, a black badge for the 80's and a silver badge for the 90's, the 1st number denotes the year of the decade, the 2nd two are the week of that year and the rest indicate its number in that years production run.......so yours might be the 904th made in the 21st week of 1987........ but I stand to be corrected, cheers

I use this stuff, but ideally the lock needs to be oil free and dry first, perhaps wash with carb cleaner and blow dry first, keep in mind that some solvents , acetone for example, may melt plastic parts, good luck. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/C-K-Graphite-Powder-Lock-Lubricant-Cylinder-Car-Padlock-K30050-50g/132445001122?epid=2169198796&hash=item1ed65655a2:m:mU82lVx6CAlOJcmJ5ASwT1w

Yeap, seems like very few people are aware of the dangers of the artificial sweetener Aspartame [ and it's many trade names ] , which was corruptly introduced to the food chain in 1981 aided by the despicable Donald Rumsfeld. There is a growing school of thought that the three known poisons that it' consists of are responsible for much more than just the obesity epidemic,... Well worth a google, specially if your a cokeheed of the diet type

So far seems like a big improvement for me as I often use BT openzone which previously had a lot of bother connecting to Arbtalk in particular, Cheers.

Yeah, the days of brushing in a dry mix are gone, once you've got it prepared to your satisfaction using a modern brush in grout is so much easier, longer lasting and leaves a much cleaner job, there's a lot of different brands to choose from, don't be put off by the cost [ as opposed to a mortar mix ] it's well worth it. Here's a link to one of the brands I've used, cheers.https://www.marshalls.co.uk/homeowners/view-weatherpoint-365-brush-in-patio-jointing

As you asked, here's a link to broaching a keyway in a tapered hole, something I used to do a lot of. I know this example is much bigger but this is how you would do it but on a smaller scale, the tapered piece of a knackered crank could have a slot milled in it to accept the broach and then be cut to length to forming guide bush, lining it up in the right position would be 'key' . Broaching alloy would only require a lightweight bench press which most mechanics will have access to, so a broach of the right width is all you'd need to buy. Perhaps somebody could make a bit of cash providing this service. It seems a common problem with other models having the same cheapo design, some huskys as well, I wonder if one tapered sleeve could be used to repair many different flywheels, I would imagine that all the Stihls would have the same taper at least, cheers.

This might help, not the same model but similar mechanism looks like there should be a pin, cheers

Yeah, thanks for that, looks like most of the stoves went for a bit less than 1/2 rrp.

Looks like the bidding closed today and all the auction items are now showing as sold, would be interesting to know what the stuff went for.

Never had any Corsican pine and probably never will so I hope it works for you. I just brush it on as I mostly only have small quantities of milled timber for personal use, the last load I treated was about 60 x 8" boards so I made a plastic lined wooden trough to contain the stuff and also stood the treated planks in it to let the excess run back in, so it ended up more like a sheep dip which worked really well and I used far less solution, it was only through reading on this forum that I discovered borax for wood preservation. I always wear waterproofs, gloves and a full face shield just to be on the safe side, I did consider spraying and I suppose in controlled conditions there would be no reason why you couldn't spray....I just didn't fancy the risk of aerosol particles getting in my eyes or being breathed by me or anyone else. Having said that on a recent job some dry rot specialists were happily spraying a borax based product about everywhere with next to no ppe....I got well out the way.... Here's a link to some tech and safety info, cheers. http://www.chemicalbook.com/ChemicalProductProperty_EN_CB6233954.htm

Hi, I mix my own and have been successful at preventing blue stain / mould on milled timber even though it can be particularly damp up here in the west highlands, at the moment I've got douglas, pine and larch boards which have been stacked stickered for more than a year and is showing no sign of staining even though they gets damp when rain blows in sideways I use this which dissolves into 5 gallons and is very cost effective. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Borax-Sodium-Tetraborate-Decahydrate-99-9-Pure-Best-Grade-Available-1-Kilo-/112073697552?epid=600913216&hash=item1a181ce910:g:ONkAAOSwARZXmTcy I don't have too much worries about planing the milled timber but I always wear a mask anyway, although I did have someone reply to previous post warning of the risks associated with borax. but everything has risks if handled incorrectly, hope this helps, cheers.

Slight derail, but on the subject of alternative engine design I came across this a few years ago. Originally designed for model planes but developed for hand held applications. http://www.rcvengines.com/applications_forestandgarden_engines.html

Aye ye seem to be gettin by alright now

Yeah, really liking the new set up as I get used to it, I'm not great with all the in and outs of computers but I'm finding this straight forward and easy to navigate so far.

Hi, this may be what your looking for, unfortunately you got to pay for it to find out, someone else may be able to point you in the direction of a free version. https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/274701984-stihl-ms-240-ms-260-service-repair

Hi, having re-investigated the uses of borax powder solution since reading the info provided earlier in this thread, and just to satisfy myself that I'm not being exposed to unnecessarily to any danger, I've not come up with any reason to stop using it. It would seem that the borax method of treating timber is considered to be the natural way as opposed to many of the brand name products in which the active ingredient is permethrin. Obviously you ultimately have to make up your own mind when deciding how to treat your woodworm problem. I've no scientific training so I'll correct myself in that the solution I use is 10 per cent not saturated, also it's borax crystal powder solution not boric acid {if that makes a difference}. I'm sure there are folk on here who have more experience of using this stuff than myself. https://www.greenshop.co.uk/documents/borax_timber.pdf There's a lot of reading out there on this subject, much of it tangled in controversy, but if it was me I'd inject it down the holes to get the woodworm, once successfully treated fill the holes with epoxy, re-sand and re-oil and I doubt if there would be any residual danger, good luck.... whatever you decide to do.

Fair enough, I know It was used historically for many things, which of course doesn't mean that it's considered safe these days and appreciate your knowledge and experience on the subject. Perhaps I'll need to have another look into the subject regarding the safety aspects of handling borax crystal solution when treating timber, I'm generally careful with all chemicals and I avoid skin contact with this as much as possible. Regarding the treatment of milled products as I described... would you also consider this to be dodgy / unsafe?...... I haven't found anything else that works as well....thanks for the info

Yep, boric can be used, if you google it, in the past it had many different uses including sterilising and preserving surfaces and food amongst many other things, there's been much on here about it as regarding preventing blue stain / fungal stuff etc. on fresh milled timber, the Crystals are real cheap on fleabay, 1 kg makes into a 5 gallon saturated solution. Borax, Sodium Tetraborate Decahydrate, 99.9% Pure, Best Grade Available, 1 Kilo | eBay Of course this natural substance is not currently being recommended as being ' natural ' product it can't be patented, ......cheers.

Amazing craftsmanship, thanks for that.

Yeah, I,m no expert, I only looked into it a little out of curiosity after coming across a similar scene to the op some years ago. cheers for the info.

Hi, I don,t think they'll kill the tree, certainly the trees I noticed this on all survived and haven't been re-infested since I noticed it several years ago, the web will disappear eventually. It's interesting that your trees are whitebeam as the article I left the link to says that the bird-cherry is they're specific food source, cheers.