Macpherson
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Everything posted by Macpherson
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Yep, you could make an bum bag oil tank, it would go well with a heated handle in the winter and prob. weigh less than a L-ion battery!!! We might be onto something, or then again maybe not. Cheers
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smashing wee cartoon, aren`t the principles so simple !! When I was 14 I got " sook, sqeeze, bang, blaw" drilled into me,....if you could just get a 4 stroke to work upside down !!
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Looks like a good repair to me,and as long as the plug doesn`t rust in or get kankered up it`ll be fine, seen loads of them , but as dissimilar metals expand and contract at different rates and to different degrees ,a Helicoil is also a good solution as it`s mobile, not being glued in, is stainless and doesn`t like being unscrewed, but it`s a toss up , I never liked short reach plug repairs, only 8 threads ,always a chance to work loose. And by the way,......remember gettin blasted off by a fizzie , on my 1949 BSAc11g 250 on the way home from school............Cheers.
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Hi, helicoils win it for me, fitted hundreds of them mostly in bike engines, from 2BA up to pretty big, but, I know what you mean about the gas seal, it`s almost impossible to retap for the insert exactly square, so I got a 4 flute taper shank drill, the size of the spotface, ground down to the I.D. of the sparkplug thread for the first 1" to act as a mandrel and then sharpened each flute to act as a flat nose drill, a couple of twists by hand and it`s bang on true or stick it in the pillar drill if you can line it up. A good tool even when the plug thread`s fine but the face is damaged. Great thread, did you start porting with the FS1E ?? Cheers, Euan.
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Hi, I looked into this a couple of years ago, just as a general wood treatment for stuff that`s outside and was warned off linseed oil as it is apt to get mildew, Tung oil is great stuff though and is safe with food , in fact I think [from memory?? ] its recommended for it ,anyway there`s loads of info online. Cheers.
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The thing about it is, whether it`s an apprenticeship or yer dad or whatever,if somehow ,at an early age,you`re encouraged to try things, you learn how to learn ,and that`s what gives you the confidence to go on and be successful , there`s no substitute for hands on training, but for kids these days, gettin it is the problem. Hope this isn`t too far off thread.
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Or water based wood preserver, what a load of .......
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Had it in both arms, tennis elbow on the outside and golfers inside,as others have said it can take six months + to heal on it`s own, tried everything except injections or surgery and eventually out of desperation one night I rubbed in some stuff the wife had for horses with sprains, noticed a difference the next day ,put it on twice a day and the prob had completely gone within a couple of weeks. Now when I get a twinge I stick it on at night and it`s usually gone by the morning. Worth a try ! "Arnica gel" made by IV HORSE You can find it online or at most horsey places. It`s also got chamomile, tea tree oil and aloe vera in it and it`s under a tenner for 250ml. This was about 15 years ago and now my old mom [ 84 year old ex physio ] and her cronies swear by it for their aches n pains. Might help, cheers
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From an engineering point of view it`s normal to sharpen drills,lathe tools, etc differently suit the material that you are trying to cut so why should this be different for chainsaws. Assuming that the saw has the power to pull through, then it must all be down to the technicalities of setting up the chain for each type of wood. Sitka and seasoned oak or beech must be as far apart as aluminium and mild steel for instance.............then there`s the cutting speed and the lube to consider, which will all affect chain life and therefore efficiency. Cheers. hope that`s not too boring !!
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Hi, picked up an ms650 36" on gumtree [2007],its 5cc less than a 660 ,but I`m sure it`ll do , the main thing for me was that I could see that it hadn`t done much, I`ve only used it so far for blocking up some big firewood but it runs nice with plenty of grunt, anyway I`ll soon find oot ! Watchin ebay for 880`s too but..££££...........................Cheers
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Just got my new 48" alaskan and mini mill from chainsawbars. Thanks again to Bob Slade for returning my call and giving me his time and advice . It`ll be a couple of weeks, but I`ve got a big bit of Douglas waiting for my first try, can`t wait. Cheers. Euan.
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Hi, think you`ll be ok with the flagstone floor mate. Also think that the`re all meant to be used with the door closed but it`s still nice to have it open if you`re sittin there. Cheers, [i`ve got a squirrel ]
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Very nice work, what wood?
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Great for burning, smoke smells good to. Up here in the west coast birch and alder also ,grow everywhere and don`t take long to dry once split. Ideal if you`re feedin a small stove. cheers
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Good tip thanks, I still have to decide how much to spend to get a decent reliable machine, but I suppose whatever I end up with I can check it`s penetration on a chunk of whatever`s being milled.........off to ebay then thanks Euan
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Hi, I`ve been a regular reader of this forum for a long time, it`s great to glean knowledge through the hands on experience of others, anyway, joined up, and this is my first post, so..... I`m needing to metal detect before cutting or milling, sick of hitting debris, which is often in the first 8-10 feet of the tree. So can anyone advise on which detectors do or don`t get the job done,I`m mostly looking for embedded wire and iron nails, but if i hit gold I`ll let you know! I`m not wanting to waste cash on a machine that doesn`t do the job. Cheers Euan.
