Macpherson
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Everything posted by Macpherson
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you can do a weld repair as has been said, Tig prob the easiest but i have also had a good success rate with oxy-acetaline and silver solder on cast iron which may be another option, it`s not scrap,the other methods mentioned are also fine, I think I would try the K seal or similar first, you might be lucky, cheers
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hi, the 114 first appeared in about 1980 I think, 51cc, cheers
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Lowest common denominator engineering, just like everything else about today, over complicated and piss poor under engineered crap. It has to be robust enough to be fit for use Doesn`t matter what I want I nearly always go for older stuff, bullet proof, well looked after with low hours. Slightly off thread, sorry.cheers:laugh1:
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Hi Eldon, so you don`t fancy an auto tune landy then, what saw did you end up with then? At least with points you could still bump start just on the alt or dynamo so you could always get home, whereas with electronics, a pulsing current or under 9v and your screwed. cheers, lost in the past and looking for a big saw with points:biggrin:
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Same as woody, Iv`e been using Rosate 36, about £34 for 5L on ebay, but all of these glyphosate products at 36 per cent are the same,[i think?] just got 10L of Clinic ace, same spec , just Monsanto !! cheers
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Husvarna 394/395 rebuild/build off/ differences...
Macpherson replied to wisecobandit's topic in Chainsaws
Ive Been looking forward to seeing the end result of your work, but I appreciate the difficulty in obtaining new plastic as i`ve been looking for a while for my old 266, but I think I`ve got hold of the husky paint codes so I see no reason why the plastic couldn`t be given a spray with 2 pack paint, which is normal for motorcycle plastic parts,won`t cost much, then all you need is the decals, which are available, it should make them look new. Did you get the crank cases powder coated, the colour looks pretty much bang on, cheers. -
.......wheelbarrow, knife n fork.
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hi, haven`t seen this particular valve guide, but if that`s all that`s wrong with the engine it shouldn`t cost much to get a couple turned off on a lathe, a fix I`ve resorted to many times on various engines. Out of curiosity I`ll need to get hold of a knackered 4 mix engine to see how fragile they really are, if carbon build up on the valve stems is causing them to stick open the springs must be noddy !! cheers
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Hi, the 4 mix engine is a 4 stroke engine which runs on the usual 2 stroke mixture by drawing it through the crankcase and circulating it round the engine to lube it like a 2 stroke before passing the fuel to the 4 stroke valves, [or something like that !! ] Think the idea is to reduce vibes, noise and fuel consumption, think it`s used in the backpack blowers and combi systems, not sure about the strimmer. sorry if this is a bit off thread, cheers
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You could do worse than get a granberg sawtune grinder, gets all the teeth the same which is important and it`s a great tool anyway whichever chain you end up with but i think granberg do a chain that size, cheers
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Yea, if it would just stick to the chain you wouldn`t need so much !!
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That`s really interesting as I`ve got a 30+ year old Stihl with no adjustment on the flow which the modern oil just pisses through, I recon I remember about 15 odd years ago , I bought a gallon of chain oil, and thought , that`s thin.... of course the saws have evolved and moved on a lot , but maybe I need to check out Millers for a gallon for the old one. cheers:biggrin:
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Don`t know anything about Echo`s but a tool that seems to have had a cool reception is the Granberg clip n trim which is basically a comb that`s bolted onto a chainsaw`s bar so you an cut bushy stuff without the scrub being drawn in, I bougth a 16" one and have used it several times now to demolish tangled scrub, this particular device is quite light weight and I fitted it my own way on a spare bar, but I knew as soon as i saw it I`d try it.......Don`t know how much hedge you need to cut or what size, but it would be easy to make up something up to bolt onto any bar, like a pole saw if it`s really high. The only drawback is that using a chainsaw as a hedgetrimmer`s gets heavy pretty quick, might be worth knocking something up though. cheers
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no, it was in a wood to the north of Glasgow ,but close ! once I`d spoken to the ranger I got back n googled it, think it`s the same, loads of images, the moth just looks like ermine, cheers
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Husvarna 394/395 rebuild/build off/ differences...
Macpherson replied to wisecobandit's topic in Chainsaws
real interesting, looking forward to the rest, I like how you went for the heavier crank + W key. my old 80`s 266 what I inherited might have just jumped the Q. cheers -
Hi, saw what I think is the same thing when out with the dog today, it does look ghostly, then met the woodland ranger and she told me that it`s the work of the Bird cherry ermine moth caterpillar, thousands of them, and that the affected trees will probably survive, but not a leaf left !!
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Yep, your`e totally right ,that isn`t the point,why should you have to fix it it`s just bad design. I think others on here are better qualified to advise on the best new alternative, as for the autotune question ,it`s only my opinion as my newest saw is 2007 and I`m not a pro user but there is lots of stuff on here about it, seizures, flooding, cutting out, starting probs......the list goes on. Husky and Stihl. Reading between the lines the dealers seem to try to blame the fuel rather than the over complicated set up, I know there`s a lot of debate about how shite the fuel is , and I agree, but my 012av my 266 and my old bike haven`t noticed !! Basically If I can`t tweak it with a screwdriver I don`t want it, that`s how you get to know a machine, as you go along, imo. hope you get a good result. cheers.
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HI again Eldon, imo....any main dealer worth his salt should be able to successfully repair a stripped thread, if they can`t then I definately wouldn`t trust them to strip an engine to change the casing, with out seeing it ,If it`s just stripped, either of the two repairs I mentioned before I would do for £15-£20 and shouldn`t take more than 1/2 hour,at four weeks old if they can`t fix it you should get a refund. Personally I would go for a good s/h saw without autotune , if you can get it local and hear it running, all the better, if it`s just for firewood there`s loads of slightly older saws out there that should be trouble free......good luck
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can you smell fuel in the cylinder after pulling it over lots? big fat blue sparks in sunshine can`t always be expected,....imo, cheers
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good stuff, cheers:biggrin:
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hi, it`s the same as the ms180 yesterday, if it`s any help, in the usa they seem to go more for a helicoil repair with loctite and back to the original stud rather than the 1115 664 2405 10mm repair stud, and when they do go for this there tapping out to 10mm x 1 first, rather than it self tapping but to be tbh i`ve not seen the repair stud yet,so........... not a fan of 1 stud either, my old 012`s only fault, apart from the noise, at least it`s metal.
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Ok, on a run here, 3rd in teak ????? if there`s a prize pls don`t make it anything autotune !!!!
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yep , took a look at it ,they seem to have a pretty good antivibe system going, mine`s an old pm45, powerfull to, I use the 3mm square as well but the Honda`s a 4 stroke,it purrs in comparison, about £450 with a good harness, nae smell , less noise,easy, get a shot of one if you can. also checked out the Eckman PBC04 4 stroke 31cc ,£200ish with all the kit but I don`t know anything about them. cheers
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6 from left beech??
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hi. worth a try, it might would worthwhile finding out what Stihl recommend for repairing their plastic, then you`ll get a better bond, if it doesn`t work, then 10mm x 1.5 helicoil perhaps if there`s enough material in the casing to take it, not seen one in bits. I`ll be getting one of these studs to take a look at it, although when I gave the part number and they got it up on the screen, but it wasn`t something they stocked or had experience of fitting. There`s a lot more about this prob online if you google . cheers
