Macpherson

Hi, came home a couple of nights ago with elm cuttings from four different healthy looking mid sized trees from different locations and when I looked on here, this thread was at the top of "today`s posts". Thanks guys, all the info I could need.

The horse stuff is not just arnica, it`s got chamomile,tea tree oil and aloe vera as well in an alcohol gel base. £7.70 for 250ml. Helps the inflamed tendons pretty quick for me and others. I agree that it`s absolutely best to modify your work practices if you can , but with a physical job that`s not really practical.

Hi. I discovered this stuff by accident years ago, a lot less invasive than steroids etc, Arnica gel by a company called IV Horse, worked for my tennis elbow and still does when I get a twinge , check it out online......I know....I`m not a horse either....worth a try !!

carved or any wood, a coat or two of clear wood preserver, not water based, cuprinol or similar, then as many coats of pure tung oil mixed 50/50 with turps as it will take rubbing off excess each time and letting dry, may take a while!! cheers

Hi, I`ve found pure tung oil thinned with real turps [white spirit will do] to be the best for me, although as said before it needs to be well rubbed in and buffed up and on light wood you do get a slight yellowing or richening. The main problem with linseed oil is the high risk of mildew on any wood that can get damp. The mildew gets into the grain and ruins the job by turning it black. Of the drying oils, Tung oil is from a tree nut and has preserving qualities which make it safe to be used on items that come into contact with food, whereas many of the other oils are foods and can therefore get mouldy. Cheers.

yep again, that makes sense,and I`ve seen that,and that`s what I`ll do. But I ain`t done it yet ,so that`s why it`s great to be able to learn from the experience of all you guys. Thanks, I Feel that I`ve been at college every time I come on here, great stuff.

yep, and trying to get a handle on the finer points of detecting is ,funnily enough , a mine field !! Looked at these ones , there`s either no info or there two expensive, or both.

Great, sounds like all the time i spent may not be wasted. Could do without punching in the word "detector" again for a couple of years !! Thanks for your encouragement .

It`s a bit red at the end.

Hi, same here, iv`e been getting all the stuff together over the past couple of months and the detector is the last piece of the jigsaw. Iv`e spent far to much time on the problem as you will probably know yourself if you`ve been looking into it. Anyway it`s in the post, a c-scope cs4pi, £200 SH on ebay. Through talking to loads of folk on the blower and looking on metal detecting forums I came to the conclusion that Pulse Induction or P I machines, designed specifically for beaches or highly mineralised ground MAY penetrate the wood further than the VFL`s, anyway there made in England and you can get the tech guy on the phone, he recons about 6-8" but We`ll see. Setting them up seems to be a bit of a dark art and of course everyone else wants machines that discriminate out iron so they only find gold and silver ! I was told by one guy [at a shop] that he would be able to get a nail at 18" but his detector cost over 4 grand. Anyway good luck, hope this helps. I`ll let you know how I get on. Cheers, Euan.

Is that per capita ?? I`m not sure . I,as a Scot, would just like to experience a period of financial stability before I retire. I started in self employment in 1979....then thatcher .. then turmoil and greed ever since. imo they`re all a shower of small minded, corupt b******s trying to make money off the backs of the few of us that are actually left working for a living.

grey squirrels have ,I believe , decimated the trees in my local wildish park over the last 15 -20 years, I saw a programme about Longleat where they were battling the same problem, they ringbark branches at the top of mature trees to mark their territory and the rot starts. try taking an air rifle into a park !!..........and what about the gangs of murderous magpies, hardly any wee birds left here. there`s no control these days .

Yep, you could make an bum bag oil tank, it would go well with a heated handle in the winter and prob. weigh less than a L-ion battery!!! We might be onto something, or then again maybe not. Cheers

smashing wee cartoon, aren`t the principles so simple !! When I was 14 I got " sook, sqeeze, bang, blaw" drilled into me,....if you could just get a 4 stroke to work upside down !!

Looks like a good repair to me,and as long as the plug doesn`t rust in or get kankered up it`ll be fine, seen loads of them , but as dissimilar metals expand and contract at different rates and to different degrees ,a Helicoil is also a good solution as it`s mobile, not being glued in, is stainless and doesn`t like being unscrewed, but it`s a toss up , I never liked short reach plug repairs, only 8 threads ,always a chance to work loose. And by the way,......remember gettin blasted off by a fizzie , on my 1949 BSAc11g 250 on the way home from school............Cheers.

Hi, helicoils win it for me, fitted hundreds of them mostly in bike engines, from 2BA up to pretty big, but, I know what you mean about the gas seal, it`s almost impossible to retap for the insert exactly square, so I got a 4 flute taper shank drill, the size of the spotface, ground down to the I.D. of the sparkplug thread for the first 1" to act as a mandrel and then sharpened each flute to act as a flat nose drill, a couple of twists by hand and it`s bang on true or stick it in the pillar drill if you can line it up. A good tool even when the plug thread`s fine but the face is damaged. Great thread, did you start porting with the FS1E ?? Cheers, Euan.

Hi, I looked into this a couple of years ago, just as a general wood treatment for stuff that`s outside and was warned off linseed oil as it is apt to get mildew, Tung oil is great stuff though and is safe with food , in fact I think [from memory?? ] its recommended for it ,anyway there`s loads of info online. Cheers.

The thing about it is, whether it`s an apprenticeship or yer dad or whatever,if somehow ,at an early age,you`re encouraged to try things, you learn how to learn ,and that`s what gives you the confidence to go on and be successful , there`s no substitute for hands on training, but for kids these days, gettin it is the problem. Hope this isn`t too far off thread.

Or water based wood preserver, what a load of .......

Had it in both arms, tennis elbow on the outside and golfers inside,as others have said it can take six months + to heal on it`s own, tried everything except injections or surgery and eventually out of desperation one night I rubbed in some stuff the wife had for horses with sprains, noticed a difference the next day ,put it on twice a day and the prob had completely gone within a couple of weeks. Now when I get a twinge I stick it on at night and it`s usually gone by the morning. Worth a try ! "Arnica gel" made by IV HORSE You can find it online or at most horsey places. It`s also got chamomile, tea tree oil and aloe vera in it and it`s under a tenner for 250ml. This was about 15 years ago and now my old mom [ 84 year old ex physio ] and her cronies swear by it for their aches n pains. Might help, cheers

From an engineering point of view it`s normal to sharpen drills,lathe tools, etc differently suit the material that you are trying to cut so why should this be different for chainsaws. Assuming that the saw has the power to pull through, then it must all be down to the technicalities of setting up the chain for each type of wood. Sitka and seasoned oak or beech must be as far apart as aluminium and mild steel for instance.............then there`s the cutting speed and the lube to consider, which will all affect chain life and therefore efficiency. Cheers. hope that`s not too boring !!

Hi, picked up an ms650 36" on gumtree [2007],its 5cc less than a 660 ,but I`m sure it`ll do , the main thing for me was that I could see that it hadn`t done much, I`ve only used it so far for blocking up some big firewood but it runs nice with plenty of grunt, anyway I`ll soon find oot ! Watchin ebay for 880`s too but..££££...........................Cheers

Just got my new 48" alaskan and mini mill from chainsawbars. Thanks again to Bob Slade for returning my call and giving me his time and advice . It`ll be a couple of weeks, but I`ve got a big bit of Douglas waiting for my first try, can`t wait. Cheers. Euan.

Hi, think you`ll be ok with the flagstone floor mate. Also think that the`re all meant to be used with the door closed but it`s still nice to have it open if you`re sittin there. Cheers, [i`ve got a squirrel ]

Very nice work, what wood?