Macpherson

It'll be a few weeks till I try it but all I'm really doing is converting it to the 3/8" bar and chain of the newer msa 220, I'm not sure if the electric motor is the same but I suspect it has enough power and if all works out ok I'll get the ap 300s as a second battery. The 3/8" sprocket is 6 tooth as opposed to 7 for the 1/4"....so about a 14% reduction in chain speed... but I'm hoping that it'll be an improvement on the tiny chain....for my purposes anyway. cheers.

Thought you might be interested to know that I've just bought the msa220 3/8" full chisel bar, chain and sprocket to convert my msa 200 away from the 1/4" picco micro....I was finding that with such little clearance in the kerf that with certain soggy woods if the chain was anything but just sharpened the bar has a tendency to get nipped fairly deep in the back cut, pain in ass ? Not tried it yet but I'm fairly confident it'll be alright, I don't intend to dump the pm chain completely as on small garden type jobs it's great but both should be greater.... cost was £76 and if anyone's interested I can post the part numbers later. Also , as others have said, sharpening the 1/4" chain is a pita.....2 reasons.... a bugger with the wee 1/8" file and also the fact that due to the tiny teeth , they disappear at a faster rate when sharpened and the chain is more expensive to buy. Anyone else finding sharpening the wee chains annoying could try this which is my method... cut the handle off one of these leaving an inch of clean shank to fit in a dremmel type tool also cut off the taper to lessen the length and prevent burling as they don't run true...this ones 150 grit, I prefer 240....they can be found in sets with different grits.......sorry if this is a slightly off topic sourcingmap 3mm x 140mm Round Diamond Needle File 150 Grit for Metal Glass Stone: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop sourcingmap 3mm x 140mm Round Diamond Needle File 150 Grit for Metal Glass Stone.

Yep, I used to see these sugary crystal deposits quite often in motorcycles that had been lying about for a long time, mostly pot metal carbs like Amal........and that was when petrol was petrol. In reflection I think the crystals grow from the alloy and may be some kind of salts leaching due to corrosion.....also fairly common in outboards

Hi, I have in the past sharpened these by simply gripping it in a vice by the centre using two sockets as spacers and sharpen as normal whichever is your preferred way... there's loads on youtube about sharpening. Personally I use a dremmel type tool with a diamond burr of the correct size....but if you use a file mounted in a guide it shouldn't be to hard to get the angle correct, give each tooth the same number of strokes with the file it should keep the teeth evenish and I'm sure with practice you'll be able to get it fairly good, cheers. If it was me it would be my knuckles I'd be worried about?

Just go for it, you should find all you need online...might be a steep learning curve, but mostly just take your time, that's how I got started, good luck

Very very nice

Hi, I also use the C scope 4pi, the pulse induction type as said are designed for detecting under water or in wet sand, some years ago I researched this before buying a detector and spoke at length to the company owner and designer at C scope about the in and outs of detecting in timber. I've found, as you might expect, it sees far better into green or wet wood...about 12" max probably but has certainly detected fence wire in fairly large butts and saved my chain when felling although mostly I use it with the Alaskan where it doesn't usually have to detect so deep....certainly saved the day many times, cheers.

radial+sawing+method - Google Search WWW.GOOGLE.COM I guess this subject has many variables

Hi, I had similar with a 15kg Chinese demo hammer... shortly after it started tripping the genny it fizzed up and melted all the brass at the brushes when plugged into the mains, you might have a problem at the brushes, cheers.

Sorry, I used coke as a generic term, I,m sure it is anthracite and or ovoids, but it gets a lot hotter, cheers.

I'm probably a bit old school but to me the mark of quality is something that's able to be completely stripped and rebuilt when necessary or as part of a long term maintenance schedule. If your unlucky enough to find a crack in cast iron it can be welded if the part isn't available or too expensive. I'd rather have bricks than vermiculite and cast parts than plate steel.... Having said that I definitely take onboard your points regarding dampness. I've burnt most woods { seasoned } in my Squirrel over the 12 years that I've had it and haven't suffered any heat damage other than door / glass rope.... but I've got 2 pals with the same stove who've had to replace parts often... I know for a fact that they burn builders rubbish, chipboard etc and their wives like coke [ as a fuel ].... so I would suspect that there lies the problem.

I'm uk size 8.5 / 9 and euro 43 usually fits, I've had many pairs of Meindl boots but not airstream, they've all been similar. Maybe this chart will help, cheers. Shoe Size Conversion Chart - Shoe Size Guide | C&E Fashions WWW.CANDEFASHIONS.COM

Yeah that would make sense, I hadn't considered swelling of the rope when damp, I suppose that firmer clamping would only cause the lugs to fail instead of the screw or thread... so they need to be puny, weakest link.. and keeping dampness from the ash is a good tip, cheers.

I like these, they're comfortable and your feet are well off the ground and don't get cold. Dunlop Thermo King Wellington Boots WWW.FARMSENSE.COM These sturdy safety wellington boots are equipped with steel toe caps and remain insulated and comfortable whilst providing superior protection.

Yep, just spotted that.....now that you mention it...

The lock at the bottom or the brass one behind it are both a bit fragile if you had a hammer?

Had my squirrel for 12 years, only burn wood and it's rarely out...no probs only maintenance, door rope about every 18 months....it's got a galvi ash pan but it's as good as new. The only thing that was a bit crap were the toy town screws/ washers that hold the flue flange/ connector to the top of the stove as they were too small and simply evaporated. I did see a tv programme about stove manufacturing and by chance it was the squirrel....the cast parts were being made in East Germany from melted down reclaimed cast iron and simply assembled in Denmark...not that I see an issue with this, don't know if this applies to all their products.

Yep, the material being cut dictates the angle, for instance brass and alloy are completely different to drill..... the other most important thing is the relevant cutting compound not to mention decent HSS bits, cheers.

That's wot I've got at the moment

I've used a ordinary grinder for this purpose all my life, you should have a pot of water next to it and quench after a couple of touches or when you notice the bit getting straw coloured.....as for dressing the stone.....if it's for sharpening only use it for that and it'll only need dressed occasionally.

In the 70's as a teenager I remember going to a drum clinic in Glasgow where he demonstrated a massive drum kit and answered questions for a couple of hours.... it was it a smallish function room and fairly intimate he was truly awesome.

Hi, just get a course thread SS allen screw..say 12 x 1.75 or 14 x 2 mm and try tapping a piece of seasoned oak, if you can do it in a drill press just by hand you'll get it dead square ...easier if you take the belt off, if you clamp another piece of wood on top and tap through it it'll stop any surface tearing and leave a lovely clean thread.... the tap should be very new / sharp and lube the finished thread with wax. I think stainless can look great with wood... there's a fairly wide selection of different head types available in the marine world, cheers.

Hi, I've found the same.... the thing is that most screws / bolts / fixings you can buy today might as well be made of toffee.. there mostly all crap.. you need to use high tensile, it won't shear. Certain seasoned woods like oak, larch etc which destroy screws can / should almost be treated like metal...I love using stainless steel with wood and have often drilled and tapped well seasoned wood with a course thread to accept an A4 allen screw or equivalent 12 to 14 mill isn't going to shear, it's more of an engineering solution than joinery but I like it and it can look good too.

Interesting on the news today apparently genes that are resistant to ADB might have been found although it won't help the OP....I know it's the BBC but it might be true... New hope for trees affected by ash dieback WWW.BBC.CO.UK A study identifies the genetics in ash trees that confers resistance to a deadly disease.

How good is that...1st 2 pics, don't remember seeing much better