Macpherson

A very clued up young guy, I followed his channel a few years back when he videoed the entire build of his giant hand made band mill from the ground up and which he's had some really great logs on since. Cheers.

I too was thinking of going this direction in order to max out on my 48" setup and I'm now trying to analyse the sequence of the failure So it would seem from the last pic that the sprocket has given up bending out the plates of the tip and then causing the chain to jam and snap, Alasdair's looked similar except his looked like the chain had continued to run round the tip for a bit longer after the sprocket buggered. If a chain was to snap it's most likely that it would just fall away doing no damage to the sprocket.....so what's causing the sprocket to fail ? Has it a bearing in it ?.....that perhaps collapsed or wore out Did it seize....and if so was it due to lack of lub or excess pressure beyond it's design capabilities or both ? Could heat or stretch have quickly and significantly changed the pitch of the chain enough to break off teeth or snap the sprocket ? It would be interesting to drill out the rivets and take a look at and measure the bits. To me it seems that the sprocket might the culprit but obviously you'd have to have the evidence to hand in order to inspect the debris and come to a conclusion.....there's no doubt that the saw has the power to snap the chain once it's been snagged. Thoughts welcome, Cheers. Jeez is this the cancel culture at work😄

Yeah, none of them very mechanically minded. I've nothing against Huskies, I love my 266.

Don't know the full answer to the question but a few of my neighbours have various new small Huskies for firewood that have this disability...I'll stick with my old stuff thanks.☺️

Still does

This brief description from chainsawbars sums up the pros and cons of lo pro. I only have experience of Stihl pmx chain from cross cut / felling point of view and found it to be too fickle and with the need for it to be to A1 sharp at all times or else it just didn't seem to have enough clearance in the kerf....so I can see how they could snap I can imagine with the extra chain length and stresses of milling that the lo pro could be a pita for a 15% or 1.5mm saving of kerf wood...I don't think I've ever felt that I was even close to snapping a regular chain while milling....I'm using 3/8 Granberg at the moment and I like it although I'd also like to try the Oregon skip when I get an excuse, cheers. Going Lo Pro - Chainsawbars WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK Pros and cons of using a lo pro ripping chain system. GB extra thin bar designed to run Stihl 3614-63PMX. When entering the world of chainsaw milling the term ‘ripping chain’ can be a...

Log slightly bigger than tyre, put tyre on top, mark round with pen then trim log with saw neatly to near mark and down about an inch or so to the point where when tyre is offered up it slips on and stays just like when it's mounted on a wheel rim....it'll sit tight and won't want to fall off 👍

Me too, if I'm milling at my place I've got a 15 degree slope where I stick the logs to be milled, makes all the difference, cheers.

Here ye are Chainsaw lumbermaking : Malloff, Will : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive ARCHIVE.ORG vii, 213 pages : 29 cm

You can download it and read online, cheers.

Yep, I do this as well with the tyre fitted to a block.. saved by back👍 Holes drilled in the underside of tyre to let water out stops your block rotting.

Yep, I'm in the same dark blue zone up the west coast, I do similar to you except I got heavy tarps made 560gsm 8 x 1.6m so I stack 5 /6 feet high on pallets in line and cover with the tarp which I support every pallet / eyelet with short bit of scaffold to give a good foot overhang....Birch gets down to 14% ish in a season, Beech etc takes longer... I've never had any rot but I do have some shelter from trees I can see that this wouldn't work up here 3 IBC's high, cheers.

Yeah, that looks great, I luvs burning Birch 👍

We got this too, sat in the sun for hours going gloopy before we were forced to drink it...put me off for life🤢

After milling get rid of all the dust and paint with a Borax solution this will stop any kind of fungal activity, Dissolve 1KG of Borax crystals into 5 gallons of warm water and simply paint on the milled lumber....it won't reverse fungal staining but should stop it and prevent it from getting worse. Borax, Sodium Tetraborate Decahydrate. Perfect for Slime WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Sodium Tetraborate Decahydrate (Borax). Sodium Tetraborate Decahydrate Information. SODIUM TETRABORATE DECAHYDRATE (BORAX). Borax is marketed as a green...

I use one of these, C Scope CS4Pi Metal Detector with HiQ Coil WWW.EBAY.CO.UK <p>C Scope CS4Pi Metal Detector with HiQ Coil. Great condition, amazing detector on the beach.</p> When I researched the subject it came up that a pulse induction detector generally designed for use in wet sand or under water was probably best for wood especially wet wood....through trial and error I recon it can detect metal at up to a foot in a standing live soggy Spruce for instance which I'd check for fencing wire or other metal before dropping, the last tree I took down for instance had wire in it up to about 4' 6" which I managed to avoid [ bloody high stump / bird table ] and I'll almost certainly find metal at the depth of cut taken when milling boards. They come up on ebay s/h from time to time, there's 2 on just now. I recon I'd have found your missing tools Mr Hewn 😁

Yep, I've often thought the same, I think the standard Dremel would be a bit too big and cumbersome for the Granberg jig but the Dremel lite 7760 looks like it would be about the right size. I'd imagine that it would be possible to mount the plastic bit of this attachment to the jig one way or another so the Dremel just screws in...Maybe I'll give it a go if my Granberg gives up. 6 pieces Chain Saw Sharpener Sharpening Drill Attachment set for Dremel WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Sharpen Blunt Chain saws with this great little tool, which will fit onto. The fastest, easiest way to sharpen dull, slow-cutting chain saws. Chainsaw Sharpening Grinding Stones...

I didn't buy them, I just thought they looked a good design variation.

Yeah, bought some stuff from Stuttgart a few weeks ago, the extra made the part overly expensive and took ages in customs but I had no choice of supplier. These tongs look good for dragging stuff and I'd expect quality from Germany, cheers.

Fair enough, I only noticed them when I was looking to see the jaw opening size of the Oregon which are about 3" more than the Stihl or Husky and that makes them more useful...I've got all three, also the Oregon handles are nicer on the hands. That's what's good about this site, I might have been tempted to buy a pair of these just based on their capacity had you not posted, cheers.👍

2 pairs of tongs for me...saves a lot of bending, saves your back...or 1 pair and a pick. After getting this gear [years ago now] I never looked back...they become arm extensions that you can't imagine doing without...two pairs of tongs are better on 2 fronts in that you're more balanced side for side if you're dragging plus also if you're lifting up in front of you.. I found that using only you're dominant hand all the time is really bad for the spine, better to keep your back straight by lifting on both sides. I've used Stihl and Husky which are fine.. but the Oregon ones are better opening nearly 3" more at 265mm which makes all the difference. Having said that , these look like they open to 300mm.... I might need to get a pair...cheers. 12 Inches 300MM Log Carrier, Log Tongs, Log Lifting Hook, Timber's Tongs for WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 12 Inches 300MM Log Carrier, Log Tongs, Log Lifting Hook, Timber's Tongs for at the best online prices at eBay! Free...

Was thinking the same thing myself 👍

Or wear in the bearings or the shaft of the tool perhaps ?

Yep, everyone should learn how to sharpen with a file, it's important to understand what your trying to achieve when sharpening any tool and this is where to start. Grinding the teeth with a diamond rotary file in a high speed Dremel should leave a considerably finer and sharper edge although there's obviously a very slight risk of doing damage to the teeth if you happen to be ham fisted with power tools....but little chance of overheating teeth with a small burr and anyway diamond tools should be lubricated / cooled with a drizzle of water to prolong they're life, cheers.

Out of interest I just removed the battery on the msa200 and stuck it under the kitchen tap....most of the water drains out leaving just a small amount in the handle moulding. With the battery connection pins being at the bottom of the battery compartment and the fact that chip can build up in there I can see the potential of a short due to wet swarf getting caught up in the connection if you don't keep the area clean. I've got another battery saw [ Greenworks 48v ] It's battery slides in from the back with the pins at the top which are protected from water / contamination by the casing a better design but much less of a saw, cheers.