Macpherson

Ok, so not trying to derail the thread, but for anyone with similar needs to me regarding achieving a straight edge on milled slabs it turns out that large Makita circular saws like this can be run on their track system with an adapter... possibly other brands as well....£500 less and no doubt about quality. MAKITA HS0600 240v Circular saw - 270mm blade - Howe Tools UK WWW.HOWETOOLS.CO.UK Free next working day delivery on MAKITA HS0600 (240v Circular saw - 270mm blade) with no-quibble returns and full...

Yep, nothing worse than buying rubbish...I've also been looking into this for some time.. watched as much comparison stuff as I can but I kind of got stuck in the usual quagmire of indecision... apart from as others have said that the Mafell is head and shoulders above the rest. But as my main use will be to get a straight edge on milled boards the 55mm max depth of cut that most of these are limited to is less than ideal for such an expensive tool much in the same way that a table saw really needs to be able to clear 3" timber, imo. The Festool TS 75 seems to be the only plunge saw the offers a deeper cut, much more useful from my point of view...but at £700 and only with one 1.4m track it's awful costly particularly as I've read some negative reviews regarding quality. I've been thinking that it might be easier to modify a normal circular saw to run on a track although I wouldn't expect to be able to achieve the fine finishing cut that seems to be the USP of a proper plunge saw. Cheers.

I haven't read any of this thread as I couldn't be bothered with the general mind feck that's associated with all the usual opposing views, but.. To use the words ' great reset ' as the world seems to accepting to describe the ambitions of the megalomaniac criminals who are undoubtedly working hard to gain global control at any expense with the main target of they're attack on humanity being firstly to make em sick, secondly feck with they're minds and thirdly to fleece them of everything.. something that's only become possible in recent years due to the digital invasion ....Is clearly a gross exaggeration.😁 This type of language is certainly being used to frighten the unaware by using words and phrasing usually used to describe geological time and catastrophic events ffs... It's generally becoming accepted that the last great reset was the Younger Dryas 12800 years ago when an object struck the Greenland ice shelf. Traditional science, set in bedrock to most folk.. the unshakeable foundations of every load of rubbish that they try to sell us, which for some reason folk seem to trust unquestionally as a ' thing ' and which has, since it's inception or perhaps more accurately it's ' hijacking ' has been able to get away with just about any old rubbish that they spout in the name of profit and control. Cheers

Yeah, everyone has their own take / understanding of engines and I'd agree with you that the main variant that's outwith your control is the ambient temperature on any given day....I was milling yesterday in the pissin rain and the saw was normal and barely stressed but it would be a different story in a heatwave, cheers.

I agree with the second part as many are brutal with equipment, but a roasting saw fresh out of the slab really doesn't want to be subjected to much reduced tick over fuel / lubrication and the equal reduction in cooling air flow, I don't see a problem with shutting it off and letting it cool down....if it's not running no wear can take place.. the piston will shrink before the pot when combustion stops. On the other hand warming up before use is essential good practice as the piston being smaller will get hot and expand well before the barrel reaches operating temperature. ' Warming up ' doesn't mean letting it tick over for 10 mins while you do something else....the best method is to continuously blip the throttle making sure it gets plenty fuel for a few minutes gradually bringing it up to full revs when it should smoke a little burning off the extra fuel / lube that's built up in the process. Only my opinion of course.. but has long been best practice with high performance 2 stroke motorcycles. Also the 881 is advertised for milling 👍

Hi, I made the mistake of planting bamboo [ not black ] protect a caravan and when it took hold it did the job but after a good few years it started putting out suckers up to about 3/4 yards away and it became obvious that it had to go. I hit the main clumps with glyphosate several times which gradually worked very slowly, but I found the best way to get the suckers out was to undermine them as they're shallow and rip them out of the ground with a winch in the direction that they'd come from the main clumps and then treat any very small regrowth aggressively as it reappears....Wot a basturd. If at all possible just cut to the chase at the start and get as much out with a small excavator.. I'd imagine that if you leave the main root clumps in the ground it'll probably come back anyway, good luck.

Fantastic work👍

Have you got any? I know someone that everyone else locally would enjoy him having 👍 them all🤪

If it does ...send me a link🤣

Only my own firewood but I generally cut to 11" for my stove so when blocking it up I'm always left with wee noggins that I throw in a pile to season just under a suspended tarp where the wind can get in, being just small split remnants it's more like a pile of coal and dries much quicker being small and when seasoned which takes much less time makes an extra reserve kinda fallback source of fuel and often an excellent fire with a wide mix of species which get thrown in randomly. Friends of mine with a very small stove love the stuff as it's ideal for they're situation but also a product that everyone that cuts firewood has plenty of👍

That tool looks like it could be tricky to use.... far easier just to use any other ' sharp ' 1.5 mm pitch tap as a comb. Aside that it's a bit of a no brainer that every plant repairer will have this size of tap as it's a standard hydraulic hose size. Cheap taps are often rubbish....

Yeah, it seams that I spent half my working life repairing threads,,, often you need to be inventive to save something that's otherwise very expensive scrap and or just too hard to find a replacement part.?

Hi, I Thought I remembered that thread size, it's metric fine and a standard size. Your right about cast iron being soft, I spent many years working with it, perhaps you could find another metric tap with 1.5mm pitch and use it as a scraper to reform the thread. Found this hydro hose banjo bolt which is the right size and not too dear and might be useful to put a slot in or check any repair.. maybe a plant company or hose guy would have these lying around, good luck. HYDRAULIC HOSE CONNECTORS - M30 X 1.5MM MALE BANJO BOLT HEX HEAD ST 1-10171 WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Green Flow. The Green Spark Plug. RRP £ 0.00.

Hi, cheap thread gauges like these make it easy to ID the pitch and callipers on the bolt will give you the OD, with a large internal thread like this you might well be able to clean it sufficiently with a dremel type tool and a lot of care, I've used thread files but really only good on external threads.... really all depends how mangled they are and how easy to get at, Cheers. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/183359163967?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=183359163967&targetid=1000147646860&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007336&poi=&campaignid=10199631037&mkgroupid=101938325957&rlsatarget=aud-629407026465:pla-1000147646860&abcId=1145985&merchantid=101717760&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Jf-BRB-EiwAWDtEGqKiGOfneGEJYkcchmSaq8sIWR3waISaZNkm_3eF77sMUVoT9MSR7xoC6AgQAvD_BwE

They look like the Jarrah sleepers a pal of mine gets from the railway often unused and undrilled....If that's a possibility. He mills them up for various stuff.

?

That's SBR for anyone looking?

As above Scabbards | Chainsaw Tools & Accessories | Chainsaw Parts | Garden & Forestry Parts | Plant Spares | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK

Yeah, I'm fairly sure it's the same saw. You've certainly made a bit of an investment in the battery saw revolution....mine is mainly for firewood and tbo it's been a game changer, I can get a full load from 1 charge and if working in a built up area, i don't annoy anyone.

Hi, I'm not a carver but if anyone reading this thread is interested I converted my MSA200 from the tiny PM3 1/4" bar and chain to the spec of the MSA220 14" 3/8 full chiz but retained the AP300 battery. The PM3 chain I found to be only really any good for small stuff with not enough clearance in the kerf and a pita to keep sharp. From doing this I recon the motors on both saws are the same [ although I don't know this for sure ].. It transformed the practical usability of the saw and although the conversion goes from 7 tooth pm3 sprocket to 6 tooth 3/8 technically gearing it down, in practice the 3/8 sprocket is larger in diameter raising the chain speed to that of the MSA 220....24 m/s I think ? It pulls through the wood that well that I can't say I've noticed much difference in battery time, it may even be more productive, well worth the £76 inc. For those running these saws a heads up..... after about a year of moderate use on the wee chain, when changing the sprocket there was a fair bit of small chip swarf in behind it with the potential to clog in the oil pump drive .... something easy to check that should be part of regular maintenance to prevent failure? Sprocket 1250 642 1201 bar 3005 0003909 chain 3616 000 0050 1.3mm /.050" small gullet I think from the pole saw ? 5/32 file. Cheers.

That fairly takes me back, I haven't seen any for so long that I didn't know it was still around until I just googled it. I don't know how much of it I've removed in my time, used to be halfway down just about every casing screw thread hole I came across.....Still find a use for green hermetite from time to time?

Might not be up to much if it's been opened, I use the stuff a lot and once air gets in the tube it gets much less fluid? Developed by Rolls Royce and for anyone interested cellulose thinners is a handy solvent for it

Hi, Not used Dirko but a quick google say's it may be silicone based.... silicone sealer usually gets perished by petrol although it's fine with engine oil. ....... Everyone has their own preference but mine is blue Hylomar. Hylomar® Universal Blue 100gm | Glue Online | Adhesive Solutions WWW.GLUEONLINE.CO.UK Hylomar® Universal Blue is a non-setting and non-hardening, polyester urethane based sealant that is resistant to a wide... Yeah, I'd do the seals and probably the bearings as well for all they cost....before you strip it see if you can feel any up and down movement in the crank, should be zero

I knew a guy that worked in a McCains factory in Denmark and after what he told me I'd never eat a processed spud, all the rottenest black and festering crap bleached and reformed into deliciousness?

Does it get nicer than that ?