Macpherson
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Everything posted by Macpherson
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It only takes 1 poisoner and the whole interdependent community suffers but unfortunately the problem is deeply embedded in certain folks mindsets 👍
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been there, done that☺️
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Well I suppose the easiest to hand way of getting an idea of hardness would be to run a decent chain file over various areas of the bust sprocket and comparing what kind of cut you get in the steel compared to say the top of a tooth on your chain... the more of a bite the file gets ...the softer the metal, if it skites off leaving a shiny mark on your file.. the metal could be hardened [ very rule of thumb ] We're at opposite ends of a working life as I'm past doing it for a living 😂 all the best to you 👍
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Fair size that is
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That's more or less my setup but I don't do it for a living, the GB tip just looks too wee, it would be interesting to know it's hardness as a clue to whether it's deforming and fatiguing or just snapping, cheers.
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Just not enough material between the ID and the root of the teeth, I noticed from Ben Scott's pictures that the GB bar is only about half the width at the tip compared to the Stihl so it will have much more teeth and more material to the sprocket. I know that my Stihl 36" bar is an option with a ' Y ' suffix which denotes 1 or 2 extra teeth 12 in total I think, can't remember which..... how many tips have you gone through ?
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My mates Norwood has this problem I'm fairly sure but it is ancient-ish...as you go down the cut it goes through phases of vibration which you can feel in the carriage as a side to side wobble and the finish on the board reflects this...when I've used the mill it bugs me but he doesn't care. After a bit of an inspection I put it partly down to the carriage rollers and or the rails which are fixed to concrete and possibly an over vibrating engine but as it's generally only used for rough timbers he's happy.
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Very glad to make your day, I've got a few older saws and I remember 1 of the Huskys had a similarly marked chain that defied online id.... sometimes you've just got to measure the chain and guess at the file size....I recommend enjoying a drink 😄
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Hi, I remembered this thread from before when I had a similar id problem....there's a chart on the 3rd page that might help, if this isn't any good there's a whole pile of charts on images.
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Grows real fast up here....known as Scot's Mahogany, also used a lot for guitar bodies.
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You're not wrong....I can't help thinking that from a milling point of view the bar tip has the opportunity to be better engineered, I can see the possibility of a dedicated milling tip with a spring loaded tensioner and a guide roller like a large rim sprocket but with no teeth...it would be great if the chain could just stay at the same tension automatically regardless of temperature.
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I'd imagine that with the extra long bars you're using you must find the chain getting really slack when it gets hot. I'm relatively inexperienced in milling compared to yourself and many others on here but I'd say that if I don't keep an eye on the tension as I go the finish of the board can suffer from one end of the cut to the other as the chain stretches particularly if I stop and start.
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You've got a crackin setup there.....I've been using a 6m alloy extrusion 2x4" as a straight edge for a while but even with this saw the motor's only about 1/2" off the deck at max cut so going to have to do something....might try to adapt some of this guy's ideas, cheers.
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Yeah, I was looking for something to get a straight edge on the milled boards, I looked at the 300mm Makita but it was a lot more money...... I was surprised that mine's not soft start, has that got a kick to it as well ?
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Feck, that's a cracker....I just bought the Makita with the 4" cut and I thought that was big...what make is it, will you rig up a track for it ?
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I thought this guys kerf size comparison is worth a look....Kind of puts things in perspective https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/real-kerf-sizes.137465/
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Yeah, perhaps a bit of both.... I suppose the longer the bar the more resistance in general..... The Lo pro chain seems to get the thumbs up with folk liking the finish they're getting plus noticing ease of cut with less strain on the saw so I guess it's that when this set up is pushed to the limit the sprocket becomes the weakest link. Personally as I'm looking to expand the width I can mill I'm not sure if this is something that I want to be worrying about, cheers.
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It's out of stock🙃
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One of these might solve the problem if it would fit a GB bar G975 Granberg Helper Handle with Roller WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK G975 Granberg Helper Handle with Roller
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Totally agree, from the photo's if I'd made that I'd expect it to break. From milling point of view as the tip never enters the kerf it wouldn't be impossible to to make a bar tip that uses a rim sprocket on a proper bearing that is a bolted on serviceable part avoiding the awkward use of rivets and the fragility of this crosscutting design for very long chains.
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To me it looks as though the bar tip gets splayed out when the sprocket fails and there's nothing to stop saw pulling the chain in and spreading the tip. I can see the hot chain shrinking back and overstressing that fragile looking sprocket to the point that it would cause stress fractures leading to failure at next use possibly.
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It does look very fragile, very little material between the root of the tooth and the ID, sure looks like a weak point considering the varying forces that are applied to it, quickly alternating hot / cold / tight / slack chains.... can't see any discolouration due to heat but it would still be interesting to see what it bears on, cheers.
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Good point ..if you've got a f*^%&" one, drill out the rivets and put up some pics of the sprocket and it's bearing, just from your pics it's easy to see that it has a much reduced diameter so therefore far less material that must equal less robust, cheers.
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Lifting Tongs / Hookaroon - Worth Getting?
Macpherson replied to Witterings's topic in Firewood forum
Me too, I got the skidderoon with the wire loop for wrapping round and dragging brash, great tool👍 -
A pal of mine converted a small Ifor trailer after seeing Mathews first log arch trailer...he welded a hitch to the front of his landy and then just used the winch as normal to work the arch, cost next to nothing 👍
