Macpherson

For crank seals and bearings the solution is simple ...they're { nearly } always standard sizes and can be bought from most quality UK suppliers for a pittance, typically under a tenner for the lot including postage. All you need is a vernier caliper to measure the size of the old ones or the size of the shaft and casing if ID numbers can't be seen. For example, I just bought Quality crank bearings for my 1976 Jonsereds 451 from ' Bearings r us ' for 6 and a half quid delivered. Nearly always These online suppliers make it easy for you with charts of options.....When their for an engine or any high speed application the suffix ' C3 ' on the bearing should be selected and also select a bearing with a metal cage as opposed to plastic....so for my recent order it was a pair of 6002 C3 shielded deep groove ball bearing 15x32x9mm..... seals ordered in the same way and are usually universal. Carb kits ...from from China.. for me, so far so good, at least there available to suit most applications of older saws which otherwise parts need to be bought from the US...so it's a choice between £2 or £22, you just takes your chances.....Cheers.

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just use the new fangled interweb?

Yep, there was someone on here not long ago complaining that his Sugi bar snapped off in the mill.....well it's harder and not designed to cope with being stressed in that way. When I first used an Alaskan I was surprised just how much the Stihl 36" bar flexed between the clamp and the powerhead, so much so that I rigged rubber buffers on a bracket from the dog bolts to limit but not prevent movement. There's a very fine line when constant flexing is taking place between a spring action and metal fatigue...so it would appear that the hardness of the steel which make Sugi bars rigid and long lasting isn't a usp when mounting the bar in the mill and subjecting it to forces it wasn't designed to cope with. From my point of view, when using an engine to power something it wasn't designed to do...ie clamped up in a mill... it's important be aware and not to transfer abnormal stresses back to the power unit where vibration can be very destructive, every material and machine part has a resonant frequency which can quickly lead to failure...... you only really get the feeling for this through your own experience of dealing with the gremlins that your own rig throws up ....imo

Yep , although I've got a winch for the purpose, I find that it dulls your contact with the work piece and can prevent you from directly feeling that you're wrecking you're chain....but if you're just ripping planks out of clean logs , it's ok, cheers.

I found the best way to sharpen the 1/4 pm3 was to buy these, cut the shank at 1" past the diamond, stick it in your cordless at a slow speed and use it freehand.....it may spin slightly eccentrically but it gets the job done in jig time.....just need to be careful not to take too much off as there's not much there in the first place? I changed mine up to the msa 220 spec [ 14" ] 3/8" full chisel 50 DL , sprocket and bar.....£68 all in.....It doesn't need the bigger battery and is altogether much better ?? 2Pcs 3mm x 140mm Round Diamond Needle File 150 Grit WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Description: Diamond file is perfect for fine detail work.It allows precise filing in hard to reach areas on metal, wood, plastic, etc. The files are coated with industrial diamonds to...

I Don't blame you.... every one likes a bargain but too often now when you search for an item all you get is the same crap tools painted with different colours and branded differently.... I find that there's very few sellers of quality equipment, tools etc. that try to sell this way as there is no way that they can compete in a market place where the majority of buyers are dumb clucks who just want the cheapest shit and can't tell wheat from chaff, All the best, Iv'e never had any such shit from yourself, quality is the key and cheers to you for providing the service ?

Hi, it's possible that you might be able to get original parts, last year I got a lot of genuine parts for my 012 from Germany through my local dealer.... and not even expensive.... but I got the impression that they were trying to wind up that part of the supply chain......original gaskets for instance, could only be bought in multiples. The way I see it, the saw's of this era are definitely worth maintaining if they've not been abused beyond repair...the up to date equivalent that's marketed today is plastic crap and doesn't come close.

As far as I'm concerned the FC has had carte blanche to destroy the Scottish { and other environments ] for a very long time.....I've no respect for them, every aspect of what they get up to is flawed..... they're very much like the fish farms, greedy, secretive and unaccountable... and get away with leaving a disgusting mess in they're wake wherever they operate.

Hi, it looks like rough off saw carcassing timber that's been run through a planer to make it smoother, the green tanalising being left in the deeper nicks. I make my raised beds from similar treated timber and as said, line them with plastic sheeting to extend the life of the wood. ? wouldn't worry about the black dots

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And a very low tide tomorrow......which is good for me?......moon was real bright last night but cloudy tonight.

When they turn it off...it'll be solid....The stone age re-imagined ?

Yeah, they also get rusty and seized. I generally don't have a whole lot of milled lumber but I've also used chain with turnbuckles using a flat sided log as a strongback on big stacks, just because I had them, and that was the best ... easy to adjust, cheers.

I tried ratchet straps but now just use loops of rope tightened with a twisting stick so easily adjusted as the wood shrinks ?

Borax, Sodium Tetraborate Decahydrate....Ebay £5 ish a kilo delivered.........Dissolve 1kg into 5 gallons of warm/ hot water and paint on to all your freshly milled lumber and fungi / insects should leave it alone, been using it for quite a while now and it definitely works.

Hi, I suppose if you drilled that rivet your bolt will take the place of it so I would think it would be ok. I'd be inclined to have a stout piece of flat bar to act as a strongback and bridge across the bar and nose parts up to as near the chain as practical so that the load is spread,this could even be fixed in place from the top with small countersunk Allen screws ...maybe 10mm thick and 20mm wide... Either that or a specially made thick machined washer of as big a diameter as possible in the available space. I've planned something similar in the past but never got round to it, Cheers.

Don't see a problem with drilling where you have on 3rd / 4th picture, ok so your loosing a few inches of capacity but with all Alaskan type jigs you have the same dilemma ....to clamp through the sprocket is no doubt possible but would probably require to be a bit more of an engineered solution than just a bolt, and as said the rivets aren't designed for that direction of stress and could be a weak point, but possibly not.....you'd have to try it to find out. I also sharpen in place but I get your point about just being able to swap chains.?

Yeah, that's my plan...I've got the 48" Alaskan. always had the idea to get a 54" gb bar to get the max out of it....I use the Granberg chain at the moment and it's never really struggled in the cut....but I guess at the end of the day it's all about tuning the chain to what your saw can cope with..depth and angle of cut and sharpness dictate the strain..... May be I'll be giving Chainsawbars a phone soon.....If I'm spared ?

Cheers for the reply, mostly using an ms 650 so only 87 cc but in good nick, seems to cope fairly well. I'm thinking that the skip chain helps when you start to push the limits of available power, just looking at that 880 setup of yours makes my back sore ?

Hi, I use diamond files all the time, both hand and rotary...I'm an engineering fitter to trade and I've done a shit load of filing in my life, I've said it before... but saw chain is the softest cutting tool I use.....The harder the better imo, It takes a better edge that lasts longer and is more resistant to wear, simples. So you can't sharpen it with a shitty file from your dealer... well, if I could sharpen any of my other cutting tools [ drills, router bits, saws, lathe tools, milling cutters, etc ] with a normal engineers metal file I'd consider them made of toffee and totally useless. In any cutting situation, assuming that the power source works, the only important thing is the sharpness and angle of the cutting edge....And as Stubby said some kind of lube helps to maintain this....but each to their own

Hi, just curious as I've never used skip or hyperskip....Do you think there would be any advantage using it on a 36" or 48" setup and what angle are you sharpening to. Cheers

If you think that's high.. ..You should see the feckin mess the FC's left behind me. ?

Hi, Just bought a spare Schott Robax glass by Calfire for my Morso on Ebay, a bit smaller than yours but that's what I last fitted when I broke mine some years ago and It's been fine....I doubt they'd sell any if they couldn't be fitted. The last time mine broke [ carelessness ] I made a temporary replacement with a piece of sheet steel so I could still use the fire...also handy to have lying around if needed, cheers.

Here's a guy who converts one to run off an engine, pity it runs backwards !