Jump to content

Heavy Oil Saw

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Heavy Oil Saw

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. What year is it? My mates 2009 Focus turned itself off, especially on motorways. It was diagnosed with a turbo fault, and renewed, still did the same, took it to an indie garage, they diagnosed something else, had it done, still the same, sold it in the end. Turned out it was a duff crank position sensor, engine wouldn’t see it. Not sure if that’s the truth, that’s what I was told by the my mate, who knew the new owner.
  2. Great to hear, hope it runs for a long while. You can get the finer fuel filter (the orange mesh type), by its self as well, run them in my two saws and strimmer. Bit of extra piece of mind.
  3. Best laugh out loud meme I’ve seen in months.
  4. Meteor is a good brand, I’m running a piston in a MS261. Hyway ain’t bad and cheaper. You could try and source a used set, but that can bite you if depending. I got a used cylinder, and the photos didn’t show the damage to the port lips, so try and make sure it’s in good condition. If the cylinder is lightly scored, a clean up, new piston and rings, good to go.
  5. Not a bench as such. Serviced this carb with a AM kit, damn sight cheaper, and has all the parts, not just gaskets. The mesh filter was spot on, formed a nice shape when fitted and cut nicely, no scraggy bits. All cleaned up and living in a bag until needed.
  6. Just fit a spacer, problem solved [emoji23].
  7. Sorry, for some reason I didn’t see your post until now. You can perform a reset, depends on the reset you need. A reset is always needed after fettling with the saw, that’s my mantra anyway.Here’s the link How To Perform An M-Tronic Reset | STIHL Blog BLOG.STIHL.CO.UK STIHL M-Tronic machines are designed to perform at their best at all times, but they sometimes need a reset. Find out when and how to reset them here.
  8. Well if all systems seem to work, without bench testing it, spark, compression, press/vac test, I’d throw a new white solenoid in it, reset the MT and see where I was. Set you back £25-£30, not sure what it’d cost to diagnose at dealership. MT is the same as a “normal” carb from what I understand of them, you still need to start at basics, air filter, fuel, spark, and move on from there. You can change the control module and solenoid, but that won’t help a leaking crank seal, split fuel pipe or a bad spark plug.
  9. Not sure if your in a rush to repair the saw, but helicoil taps are quite expensive from UK/Europe. I got a M16x1.25 tap from China for a tenner, and it cut a very nice thread for the insert in a stripped out Stihl jug. Tried a repair kit, and it was crap, came with loads of inserts though of different length.
  10. Always the way with stuff, leave it and it packs up, try and look at it/repair it and runs the best it ever did, makes you wonder if there ever was a problem. Glad your up and running, always best to keep a spare on hand, the old one will go at the most crucial time, Sod’s law.
  11. [mention]Bob_z_l [/mention] I was wondering if you got a solenoid sorted in the end?
  12. Is it operating through the rev range happily, or is it slow coming off of full throttle/idling odd like it is running out of fuel?
  13. If your going second hand, don’t buy online. Sellers say all sorts, and neglect to say the rest. Go local, is there a saw dealer that does trade ins, or like previously mentioned an arb business that is updating their saws. Without inspecting it, seeing it start from cold, stop, start when warm, and maybe even a test drive. I’d avoid buying a saw for “work” second hand, unless I had all the facts, and being able to test/repair helps. A saw may run when bought, then the carb packs up, or has begun running lean then seizes, it’s your problem then. Just my opinion, hope it’s helpful and good luck finding a saw. PS Don’t get a second hand MS261, carb or m-tronic, the cranks aren’t all that good on the clutch side.
  14. Bare with me, just finished night shift. The flywheel side is an off the shelf bearing, it’s the clutch side that’s a Stihl “in house” spec bearing, as I’ve not found it online or on chainsaw threads. I may of missed something somewhere, and google will only get you so far. If what I’ve researched is true, once I’ve bought clutch side bearing from Stihl distributor, may as well get the flywheel side for the P&P, and I know it’s a good bearing. That’s why I’d go OEM on the bearings if anything, not heard a good thing about Chinese bearings in any capacity, the Holfforma/Farmertec builders 9 out of 10 times bin the kit bearings and go OEM. I’ll go metal clutch bearing as they’re gonna be cheap out of China.
  15. Thank you for comments. Worth a punt then. Bearings I’ll stick with OEM, no doubt in them then. The cylinder is OEM, but plug thread stripped so insert used, and exhaust port matched to gasket and exhaust modded. Hyway pop-up piston, Baseh AM crank, and badly worn case repaired with JB Weld. Trying to keep the price down obviously, so if it grenades or fails to run ‘cos of my shoddy port ‘work’, I can slap a cheap jug on it and run it.


Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.