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Heavy Oil Saw

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  1. @spudulike Spot on, glad you understood my terminology. All seems fine then, no rotational movement in the crank at the bearing ends, no movement up or down in the piston (all new parts), or the the crank big end. There is movement as you suggest in the crank. Thank you for replying so fast. I’ve lathered the internals with 2 smoke oil, to preserve it while it’s open, and give maximum lubrication on dry pulling and eventually start up. Found the fuel tank breather blocked/failed, so that’s on order as well. Trying to cut down potential on problems when fault finding a non starter. Pretty much only the carb is left unopened, but passed a pressure test. Gotta pressure test the cylinder as well. Has anyone deleted the base/cylinder gasket to any detrimental affect. I’ve read early 261s had too little squish for this, but later ones are looser in tolerance, and can accept it better. Any opinions?
  2. Pulled the jug off, again, anyone got a good idea about “free play” in the piston and crank. Got no vertical play, but some horizontal play in piston and crank. I believe this is acceptable, but in what measurement?
  3. On the damaged M-Tronic case, it’s that part that’s been modified, so I followed Stihl’s way of doing it. Didn’t want to mess with the coil.
  4. @Ratman Only thing that’s worrying me is clutch side crank bearing, I’m sure it did something when I reheated the case half and fitted the crank. It isn’t interfering with the bottom end or the oil pump. I’ll let you know when it drops it’s guts on start up (if it starts up).
  5. Sat in bed, watching the news, and thought to myself, those pipes will cause you nothing but problems once you get the Aspen in, best run down, strip it back, order the hoses and wait. The carb can wait, that’s easy to get at. Upgraded the solenoid to the white one, and the orange mesh filter though, just as a precaution. Edit:- Yes that is a tea spoon, great tool for hoses and leverage, no sharp edges and thin.
  6. Kitchen island, I’ll have you know [emoji1787]. It’s closer to the kettle in there, and my work oven.
  7. In the lock down situation the country is experiencing at the moment, thought I’d get the project moving, and here it is, pretty cack handed and bodged together, but looking OK. The book said 10Nm for crankcase bolts, but the kit instructions said 3Nm and 90 degree turn, so I went with the kit destructions. It’s a 261 carb case, and I have an M-Tronic get up, so came across this problem The M-Tronic coil was hitting this guide, which in turn allowed the flywheel to foul the pick-ups. Soooo, in great heavy handed fashion....... Almost there And finally pulling 150ish PSI, I was slow getting the camera, and my tester must leak. Oh, and there’s spark as well. Thank you to people who’ve answered my questions, and to the forum in whole for info, been lurking about reading about tapping the ends of the crank and helpful tips like that. Honed the cylinder with 1000 grit and 2 smoke oil as lube, worked a treat. Most of the parts are 2nd hand, cleaned in works parts washer and cobbled together by me. Hats off to you small engine guys, it’s fiddly as ****, and big hammers won’t achieve the desired effect as on heavy plant. Last final part is getting the clutch and chain lube side sorted and then run it up.
  8. I’m ready for it, carb kits/primers for the saw and strimmer, and new fuel lines and filters all round. I like tinkering, so I’m happy it’ll perish all the lot. There’s another post floating around about Aspen, and it was mentioned about this occurring, as I researching using Aspen, as it keeps for so long (conditions prevailing).
  9. Saving an ex grounds maintenance HRX537, none runner, used 4 stroke Stihl Motomix in 1l, and had it running within the day. Spark plug was defunct and magnet and coil pick ups rusted bad. Could not get it to tune at all though (back firing, hunting, unable to hold idle), went through the bottle and went and bought Aspen 4 in 5l. Topped up and began tuning, and had it tuned within 30mins (yes I’m slow, paid by the hour though [emoji23]). Cuts like a champ now. At the same time got a bottle of 2 stroke Stihl Motomix for the strimmer, FS70, primed off bulb and started on choke second pull. It ran amazingly well and had more response on the throttle than on pump fuel mix. Didn’t stink either, and lasts up to five years if stored correctly, no brainer for me really. So I had a “bad” experience with the Stihl 4 stroke (there could of been other factors involved), but not the Aspen 4 or Stihl 2 stroke mix. Who knows, but I’m sticking with the Aspen 4 for the foreseeable future, and going to test some other 2 stroke pre mixes out in the strimmer and saw (MS171). Edit:- Both strimmer and mower used pump fuel all their live (in their respective requirements). Both items are 2nd hand, repaired by myself for personal use.
  10. How’s that exhaust blowing? I’m looking to mod mine, and unsure where to go with the cuts.
  11. Probably runs better than on its suggested mix of 25:1, and less issues.
  12. They use 30W SAE oil to mix, not Stihl Synth or the like. China doesn’t need to conform to environmental laws (I know 50:1 was introduced before laws, but now it’s a factor), end user in China ain’t worrying about ratio or even oil they use. They are cheap due to exchange rate and subsidised postal system. Plenty of threads/vidyas of them running 40/50:1. A janky saw, is still a janky saw, no matter the mix.
  13. This is how I’d feel running an old saw. Everyone says it’s true, but you don’t want to find out it isn’t.
  14. From what I’ve gleaned from old saw restoration vidyas and the likes, modern 2SO alleviates the need for ratios in old saws. So a 25:1 mix old saw will run 50:1 on modern mix (Stihl Motomix, Aspen 2). I didn’t believe it at first, but heard/read from many sources, so I believe it true. If you don’t think it’ll work, run Aspen 4 stroke and mix to ratio as mentioned above. I was contemplating this method for a run in period of 40:1 for a saw I’m building (use the 4 for your mower as well).
  15. @spudulike Any recommendations on after market cranks? I’m think of building a second MS261, with a standard carb, will need a crank though and OEM really don’t justify the price for my needs. All I keep finding is Chinese or smaller saw 171, 181 or big saws 362, 661. Seems like mid range saws aren’t popular.

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