Macpherson

Only my own firewood but I generally cut to 11" for my stove so when blocking it up I'm always left with wee noggins that I throw in a pile to season just under a suspended tarp where the wind can get in, being just small split remnants it's more like a pile of coal and dries much quicker being small and when seasoned which takes much less time makes an extra reserve kinda fallback source of fuel and often an excellent fire with a wide mix of species which get thrown in randomly. Friends of mine with a very small stove love the stuff as it's ideal for they're situation but also a product that everyone that cuts firewood has plenty of👍

That tool looks like it could be tricky to use.... far easier just to use any other ' sharp ' 1.5 mm pitch tap as a comb. Aside that it's a bit of a no brainer that every plant repairer will have this size of tap as it's a standard hydraulic hose size. Cheap taps are often rubbish....

Yeah, it seams that I spent half my working life repairing threads,,, often you need to be inventive to save something that's otherwise very expensive scrap and or just too hard to find a replacement part.?

Hi, I Thought I remembered that thread size, it's metric fine and a standard size. Your right about cast iron being soft, I spent many years working with it, perhaps you could find another metric tap with 1.5mm pitch and use it as a scraper to reform the thread. Found this hydro hose banjo bolt which is the right size and not too dear and might be useful to put a slot in or check any repair.. maybe a plant company or hose guy would have these lying around, good luck. HYDRAULIC HOSE CONNECTORS - M30 X 1.5MM MALE BANJO BOLT HEX HEAD ST 1-10171 WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Green Flow. The Green Spark Plug. RRP £ 0.00.

Hi, cheap thread gauges like these make it easy to ID the pitch and callipers on the bolt will give you the OD, with a large internal thread like this you might well be able to clean it sufficiently with a dremel type tool and a lot of care, I've used thread files but really only good on external threads.... really all depends how mangled they are and how easy to get at, Cheers. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/183359163967?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=183359163967&targetid=1000147646860&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007336&poi=&campaignid=10199631037&mkgroupid=101938325957&rlsatarget=aud-629407026465:pla-1000147646860&abcId=1145985&merchantid=101717760&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Jf-BRB-EiwAWDtEGqKiGOfneGEJYkcchmSaq8sIWR3waISaZNkm_3eF77sMUVoT9MSR7xoC6AgQAvD_BwE

They look like the Jarrah sleepers a pal of mine gets from the railway often unused and undrilled....If that's a possibility. He mills them up for various stuff.

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That's SBR for anyone looking?

As above Scabbards | Chainsaw Tools & Accessories | Chainsaw Parts | Garden & Forestry Parts | Plant Spares | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK

Yeah, I'm fairly sure it's the same saw. You've certainly made a bit of an investment in the battery saw revolution....mine is mainly for firewood and tbo it's been a game changer, I can get a full load from 1 charge and if working in a built up area, i don't annoy anyone.

Hi, I'm not a carver but if anyone reading this thread is interested I converted my MSA200 from the tiny PM3 1/4" bar and chain to the spec of the MSA220 14" 3/8 full chiz but retained the AP300 battery. The PM3 chain I found to be only really any good for small stuff with not enough clearance in the kerf and a pita to keep sharp. From doing this I recon the motors on both saws are the same [ although I don't know this for sure ].. It transformed the practical usability of the saw and although the conversion goes from 7 tooth pm3 sprocket to 6 tooth 3/8 technically gearing it down, in practice the 3/8 sprocket is larger in diameter raising the chain speed to that of the MSA 220....24 m/s I think ? It pulls through the wood that well that I can't say I've noticed much difference in battery time, it may even be more productive, well worth the £76 inc. For those running these saws a heads up..... after about a year of moderate use on the wee chain, when changing the sprocket there was a fair bit of small chip swarf in behind it with the potential to clog in the oil pump drive .... something easy to check that should be part of regular maintenance to prevent failure? Sprocket 1250 642 1201 bar 3005 0003909 chain 3616 000 0050 1.3mm /.050" small gullet I think from the pole saw ? 5/32 file. Cheers.

That fairly takes me back, I haven't seen any for so long that I didn't know it was still around until I just googled it. I don't know how much of it I've removed in my time, used to be halfway down just about every casing screw thread hole I came across.....Still find a use for green hermetite from time to time?

Might not be up to much if it's been opened, I use the stuff a lot and once air gets in the tube it gets much less fluid? Developed by Rolls Royce and for anyone interested cellulose thinners is a handy solvent for it

Hi, Not used Dirko but a quick google say's it may be silicone based.... silicone sealer usually gets perished by petrol although it's fine with engine oil. ....... Everyone has their own preference but mine is blue Hylomar. Hylomar® Universal Blue 100gm | Glue Online | Adhesive Solutions WWW.GLUEONLINE.CO.UK Hylomar® Universal Blue is a non-setting and non-hardening, polyester urethane based sealant that is resistant to a wide... Yeah, I'd do the seals and probably the bearings as well for all they cost....before you strip it see if you can feel any up and down movement in the crank, should be zero

I knew a guy that worked in a McCains factory in Denmark and after what he told me I'd never eat a processed spud, all the rottenest black and festering crap bleached and reformed into deliciousness?

Does it get nicer than that ?

Have you ever tried dribbling water from a garden hose through the kerf kind of like treating the wood as if it were metal you were cutting very dry stuff.....I mean you would never try to cut metal on a machine without lubricant / coolant. Normally when you cut wood with a saw it already contains about 30% h2o. It may of course not always be practical but from my engineering background to me at least it's logical, I recon that when I've tried this the chain kept sharp for longer, although waterproofs are required. TCT blades are easily and cheaply sharpened btw.....Cheers.

Technically we are hydraulic, I feel lucky to have reached 64 without blowing a hose?

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Lucky bar steward.....? that type of testing takes a very long time

So did you get to keep it ?

Hi, just got beaten to it 2-MIX technology – economical and with good lugging power WWW.STIHL.CO.UK 2-MIX technology – economical and with good lugging power

You mean you can roll a fag with it when you run out of rizlas ?

Was thinking about an 880 but this has thrown a spanner in the works....It seems that it's not Mtronic either which makes it more attractive to me. I guess it's a bit pricey but I've been seeing brand new 880 power heads only being offered from the USA for more. Thanks for the review?

Just the rope....at least on mine which is only about 12 years old....and I don't have a link but it was probably within the last year but the original thread subject could have been anything..... from your pics would gravity not almost be enough to hold the flue in place with a little sealant and only the slightest tether, when it warms up the flue will expand and help .