Macpherson

Hi, I use diamond files all the time, both hand and rotary...I'm an engineering fitter to trade and I've done a shit load of filing in my life, I've said it before... but saw chain is the softest cutting tool I use.....The harder the better imo, It takes a better edge that lasts longer and is more resistant to wear, simples. So you can't sharpen it with a shitty file from your dealer... well, if I could sharpen any of my other cutting tools [ drills, router bits, saws, lathe tools, milling cutters, etc ] with a normal engineers metal file I'd consider them made of toffee and totally useless. In any cutting situation, assuming that the power source works, the only important thing is the sharpness and angle of the cutting edge....And as Stubby said some kind of lube helps to maintain this....but each to their own

Hi, just curious as I've never used skip or hyperskip....Do you think there would be any advantage using it on a 36" or 48" setup and what angle are you sharpening to. Cheers

If you think that's high.. ..You should see the feckin mess the FC's left behind me. ?

Hi, Just bought a spare Schott Robax glass by Calfire for my Morso on Ebay, a bit smaller than yours but that's what I last fitted when I broke mine some years ago and It's been fine....I doubt they'd sell any if they couldn't be fitted. The last time mine broke [ carelessness ] I made a temporary replacement with a piece of sheet steel so I could still use the fire...also handy to have lying around if needed, cheers.

Here's a guy who converts one to run off an engine, pity it runs backwards !

It's really interesting to watch these two vids of the Makita and the wee Echo to compare the 2 chains from the users point of view. I can say for sure just by watching that my msa 200 with the Stihl pm3 1/4" 0.043 has a higher chain speed and when sharp cuts considerably quicker than either. But,.... I've become pissed off with the tiny chain which I've found to be too delicate, very little clearance in the kerf and a pita. In the year and a half that I've had it, it very quickly became my go to firewood saw and the semi chisel pm3 chain is it's weakest link imo, so I just got the stuff to convert it to 3/8 full chisel but not tried it yet but looking forward to dropping 6 medium Birch, silently ? Jeez, the £15 quid is tempting..... but being an antique I don't possess the where with all ?

The debarker looks more useful, I nearly had one off fleabay a while ago but missed it. There's video of the bike moving on youtube.

I,m sure I remember a Husky powered bike with even more engines. ?

How about this then

It's a plan......Idiocracy....It's working !

Once released from the prison of their pots they'll sprint away and give you pleasure for years, I regularly walk past some pines that I rescued 30 years ago and was recently a bit devastated when one was cut down.......there WILL be a price to pay ?

Very nice and delicate work...It sure is strange to come across work you did years or even decades before and forgotten about...it's happened to me and it's a bit surreal.?

It'll be a few weeks till I try it but all I'm really doing is converting it to the 3/8" bar and chain of the newer msa 220, I'm not sure if the electric motor is the same but I suspect it has enough power and if all works out ok I'll get the ap 300s as a second battery. The 3/8" sprocket is 6 tooth as opposed to 7 for the 1/4"....so about a 14% reduction in chain speed... but I'm hoping that it'll be an improvement on the tiny chain....for my purposes anyway. cheers.

Thought you might be interested to know that I've just bought the msa220 3/8" full chisel bar, chain and sprocket to convert my msa 200 away from the 1/4" picco micro....I was finding that with such little clearance in the kerf that with certain soggy woods if the chain was anything but just sharpened the bar has a tendency to get nipped fairly deep in the back cut, pain in ass ? Not tried it yet but I'm fairly confident it'll be alright, I don't intend to dump the pm chain completely as on small garden type jobs it's great but both should be greater.... cost was £76 and if anyone's interested I can post the part numbers later. Also , as others have said, sharpening the 1/4" chain is a pita.....2 reasons.... a bugger with the wee 1/8" file and also the fact that due to the tiny teeth , they disappear at a faster rate when sharpened and the chain is more expensive to buy. Anyone else finding sharpening the wee chains annoying could try this which is my method... cut the handle off one of these leaving an inch of clean shank to fit in a dremmel type tool also cut off the taper to lessen the length and prevent burling as they don't run true...this ones 150 grit, I prefer 240....they can be found in sets with different grits.......sorry if this is a slightly off topic sourcingmap 3mm x 140mm Round Diamond Needle File 150 Grit for Metal Glass Stone: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop sourcingmap 3mm x 140mm Round Diamond Needle File 150 Grit for Metal Glass Stone.

Yep, I used to see these sugary crystal deposits quite often in motorcycles that had been lying about for a long time, mostly pot metal carbs like Amal........and that was when petrol was petrol. In reflection I think the crystals grow from the alloy and may be some kind of salts leaching due to corrosion.....also fairly common in outboards

Hi, I have in the past sharpened these by simply gripping it in a vice by the centre using two sockets as spacers and sharpen as normal whichever is your preferred way... there's loads on youtube about sharpening. Personally I use a dremmel type tool with a diamond burr of the correct size....but if you use a file mounted in a guide it shouldn't be to hard to get the angle correct, give each tooth the same number of strokes with the file it should keep the teeth evenish and I'm sure with practice you'll be able to get it fairly good, cheers. If it was me it would be my knuckles I'd be worried about?

Just go for it, you should find all you need online...might be a steep learning curve, but mostly just take your time, that's how I got started, good luck

Very very nice

Hi, I also use the C scope 4pi, the pulse induction type as said are designed for detecting under water or in wet sand, some years ago I researched this before buying a detector and spoke at length to the company owner and designer at C scope about the in and outs of detecting in timber. I've found, as you might expect, it sees far better into green or wet wood...about 12" max probably but has certainly detected fence wire in fairly large butts and saved my chain when felling although mostly I use it with the Alaskan where it doesn't usually have to detect so deep....certainly saved the day many times, cheers.

radial+sawing+method - Google Search WWW.GOOGLE.COM I guess this subject has many variables

Hi, I had similar with a 15kg Chinese demo hammer... shortly after it started tripping the genny it fizzed up and melted all the brass at the brushes when plugged into the mains, you might have a problem at the brushes, cheers.

Sorry, I used coke as a generic term, I,m sure it is anthracite and or ovoids, but it gets a lot hotter, cheers.

I'm probably a bit old school but to me the mark of quality is something that's able to be completely stripped and rebuilt when necessary or as part of a long term maintenance schedule. If your unlucky enough to find a crack in cast iron it can be welded if the part isn't available or too expensive. I'd rather have bricks than vermiculite and cast parts than plate steel.... Having said that I definitely take onboard your points regarding dampness. I've burnt most woods { seasoned } in my Squirrel over the 12 years that I've had it and haven't suffered any heat damage other than door / glass rope.... but I've got 2 pals with the same stove who've had to replace parts often... I know for a fact that they burn builders rubbish, chipboard etc and their wives like coke [ as a fuel ].... so I would suspect that there lies the problem.

I'm uk size 8.5 / 9 and euro 43 usually fits, I've had many pairs of Meindl boots but not airstream, they've all been similar. Maybe this chart will help, cheers. Shoe Size Conversion Chart - Shoe Size Guide | C&E Fashions WWW.CANDEFASHIONS.COM

Yeah that would make sense, I hadn't considered swelling of the rope when damp, I suppose that firmer clamping would only cause the lugs to fail instead of the screw or thread... so they need to be puny, weakest link.. and keeping dampness from the ash is a good tip, cheers.