Macpherson
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Everything posted by Macpherson
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I bought one years ago with the mill but nearly everything I've milled has been green, maybe it's day will come if I get some very dry logs
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Interesting, do you not think the gravity feed's able to deliver enough oil, I'd have thought it would.. although I've no experience with the very large set ups I've seen you use, cheers.
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Yep, I think it kinda depends how much the guys at the dealer can be bothered... at mine they go out of their way to help. The last time when I wanted a couple of gaskets I would've had to by them by the dozen so I think Stihl might be trying to have a clear out.
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Hi, I recently managed to get new original parts for my 1980's 012 from my Stihl dealer, they had to be sent from Germany but were surprisingly reasonably priced....... maybe you've already tried that...
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Or maybe I have and just didn't realise it, there seem to quite a few now that I know what I'm looking at
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D & L swing blade sawmill... Looks very similar to the Peterson wonder who copied who, for some reason I'd not come across either of these till today, don't know why.
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That's a right nice piece of kit you've got there, just googled Peterson mills and got a good video of one of their mills being demoed. Junior Peterson - Small Sawmill with Big Features by Peterson Sawmills PETERSONSAWMILLS.COM The Junior Peterson is small portable sawmill manufactured by Peterson Portable Sawmills and is with big features and...
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Yeah, last year I bought 2 galvi barrows of different makers, real good price but both got early flats and when taking off the wheels / tyres the rubber was total shite and paper thin as were the tubes and the wheels rims and axles were just total crap.... it's back to Haemmerlin for me.
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I have the granberg as well and find it ok, it wouldn't be hard to knock up a back rail to prevent any movement if that became an issue, cheers.
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It only takes 1 poisoner and the whole interdependent community suffers but unfortunately the problem is deeply embedded in certain folks mindsets 👍
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been there, done that☺️
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Well I suppose the easiest to hand way of getting an idea of hardness would be to run a decent chain file over various areas of the bust sprocket and comparing what kind of cut you get in the steel compared to say the top of a tooth on your chain... the more of a bite the file gets ...the softer the metal, if it skites off leaving a shiny mark on your file.. the metal could be hardened [ very rule of thumb ] We're at opposite ends of a working life as I'm past doing it for a living 😂 all the best to you 👍
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Fair size that is
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That's more or less my setup but I don't do it for a living, the GB tip just looks too wee, it would be interesting to know it's hardness as a clue to whether it's deforming and fatiguing or just snapping, cheers.
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Just not enough material between the ID and the root of the teeth, I noticed from Ben Scott's pictures that the GB bar is only about half the width at the tip compared to the Stihl so it will have much more teeth and more material to the sprocket. I know that my Stihl 36" bar is an option with a ' Y ' suffix which denotes 1 or 2 extra teeth 12 in total I think, can't remember which..... how many tips have you gone through ?
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My mates Norwood has this problem I'm fairly sure but it is ancient-ish...as you go down the cut it goes through phases of vibration which you can feel in the carriage as a side to side wobble and the finish on the board reflects this...when I've used the mill it bugs me but he doesn't care. After a bit of an inspection I put it partly down to the carriage rollers and or the rails which are fixed to concrete and possibly an over vibrating engine but as it's generally only used for rough timbers he's happy.
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Very glad to make your day, I've got a few older saws and I remember 1 of the Huskys had a similarly marked chain that defied online id.... sometimes you've just got to measure the chain and guess at the file size....I recommend enjoying a drink 😄
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Hi, I remembered this thread from before when I had a similar id problem....there's a chart on the 3rd page that might help, if this isn't any good there's a whole pile of charts on images.
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Grows real fast up here....known as Scot's Mahogany, also used a lot for guitar bodies.
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You're not wrong....I can't help thinking that from a milling point of view the bar tip has the opportunity to be better engineered, I can see the possibility of a dedicated milling tip with a spring loaded tensioner and a guide roller like a large rim sprocket but with no teeth...it would be great if the chain could just stay at the same tension automatically regardless of temperature.
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I'd imagine that with the extra long bars you're using you must find the chain getting really slack when it gets hot. I'm relatively inexperienced in milling compared to yourself and many others on here but I'd say that if I don't keep an eye on the tension as I go the finish of the board can suffer from one end of the cut to the other as the chain stretches particularly if I stop and start.
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You've got a crackin setup there.....I've been using a 6m alloy extrusion 2x4" as a straight edge for a while but even with this saw the motor's only about 1/2" off the deck at max cut so going to have to do something....might try to adapt some of this guy's ideas, cheers.
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Yeah, I was looking for something to get a straight edge on the milled boards, I looked at the 300mm Makita but it was a lot more money...... I was surprised that mine's not soft start, has that got a kick to it as well ?
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Feck, that's a cracker....I just bought the Makita with the 4" cut and I thought that was big...what make is it, will you rig up a track for it ?
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I thought this guys kerf size comparison is worth a look....Kind of puts things in perspective https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/real-kerf-sizes.137465/
