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ArborOdyssey

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  1. Re Treestuff saying "T-Rex is unsuitable for Safebloc eyes, it elongates too much and could lead to failure".... Aside from the mountain of Q's I have on their statement there, I should note I was able to remove my Safebloc from the eye I'd made, sadly I had to fight it out/spend 30sec massaging the eye to do it but I was able to.... here's the throat of the first deadeye's eye-splice: I was also (far, FAR more easily) able to remove the two Lrg, and one XL, x-rings from my pre-made 3-ringed sling (they were scary loose, and no the sling was not beaten on!) SOOoooo, this time I made damn sure to spend the time on ensuring the rope was "pre-tensioned" a little bit when setting the brummelling, w/o doing that there will always be slack (also I figured since things settle, and rope's stretch a lil over time, that it was better to just go as tight, basically, as the strength of my hands allowed!) super tight, allows some 'rotational' sliding of Bloc in eye but not much, probably as tight as you can/should put a 12S around a ring: sooo tight closer-up: edited-to-add: I've gotta say it was only pretty recent I learned this, "daisy chaining" a long rope by just repeatedly slipknotting it (and I make a bite at the end, pass tail through & pull, to 'lock' the top until I'm ready to pull&un-do the whole chain), makes dealing w/ long slings (and long fliplines!) so much simpler!!
  2. LOVED the comparison to aviation and general notion of "we remove human error wherever possible"!!! Couldn't find the teufelberger Ultra instructions anywhere when I went and made an Ultra-Bloc sling from the ~17.5' of 3/4TEC I had it slung in already (as dead-eye, but this was because I'd pulled the tail through from a Whoopie config, and the instructions for whoopies have your actual hardware's-eye's bury being a really shortened, and abruptly-ending, bury....this was driving me nuts so I was going to re-do the deadeye splice anyway which is why I'd thought "Hey make an Ultra, the one you made last week is awesome but only medium-duty!" But....I woulda needed at least 25' probably closer to 30' to do it the way I'd want IE: - 8' long (with ~2/3' long "butt"/useless-tail included so 7.33' "use-able" length; Most of that 2/3' butt would be the bury, only last few inches for backsplice as I just nail it in place w/ lock-stitching to shorten that part of the 'butt' 😛 ) - crazy-tight pockets, I mean like just-big-enough for my Bloc to fit through....as I got to my 3rd pocket I realized just how much rope I was losing to the triple-brummel "soft shackle" pocketing I was making. It did get comparable "max diameter of practical usage" as same cordage as-deadeye did (both require 2 legs of rope around the stem, the ultra's losses are to buries & brummels and the deadeye's are to the knotting/hitching used to affix it), but that's going through those long pockets which means I'd have too much slop/slack in my system in certain instances (the Bloc's inversion already requires a 1' allowance in-between the height of the sling's position and the half-hitch on the piece you're cutting, my pockets would've added nearly 1' extra if the stem were just the right(wrong!) width) The pockets had to be too large though, needed more pockets and more length, but after seeing it....wasteful & a bit embarrassing but changed my mind, don't want to give-up the tightness that my deadeyes allow so instead of ordering longer/appropriate cordage to make a proper Ultra I did the original plan and simply re-did the deadeye only with a good&proper bury this time, not a "whoopie bury"! Never had to remove my teufelberger-inspired "pointed tail" ending on the rope so that is nice [best/smoothest bury I've ever done on TEC, wish I altered/smoothed the first tapering in addition to the final tail-taper but this did the job, looks far better than it did when it was like 18" of bury w/ an abrupt ending, from the Whoopie build That was really a once-off, first&only time I've gotten (or seen!) trex, got 17 or 18' of 5/8" and used a spare pair of Lrg rings to make a double-header Ultrasling, have yet to use it (my default bullrope is 5/8 with a splice and that doesn't pass-through the "Large" x-rings...though I will say those 'large' rings do give the 5/8 great friction if you do use them w/ an unspliced 5/8 bullrope!) [edit-to-add: The pic with the measuring tape: I'd laid the deadeye on the floor and made a cow hitch to see my max-diameter of real use-ability and it was within a couple inches, low 20"'s]
  3. err OK so it's more like a 21" diameter capacity, now that I've laid it out as a cow hitch w/ better half (leaving the shortest tail coming out, not something I'd be too happy w/ IRL) The sling is 16 maybe 16.5' deadeye now, am guessing (hoping!) I'll get a 7' out of it and, based on that last pocket, can see how the max-diameters match up (with the loss to the 'butt' of the ultra, I bet it'll get <21" and the more&closer I brummel it, as I'd like to so I have more precision, the shorter it'll be....if it's <6' I basically have to call it and probably resplice as regular deadeye, only w/ a regular, not a whoopie's, bury on the Bloc's eye this time ;D )
  4. ANYONE ever see (or hear-of!!) an Ultrasling anchor sliding/moving/etc on a stem? Or other "unpredictability" issues?(Eg., while I've never had a need for/owned one, I've heard of multiple issues w/ Loopies....seems they are user-fault, but also that seasoned/veteran users are sometimes falling for it, if I'm understanding correctly - enough to make me uninterested) Well, you sold me on it!! It's like 16.5' long dead-eye right now, I like that but it was previously a Whoopie which means once I pulled the tail to make it Deadeye, the actual bury for the Safebloc has an incredibly abrupt ending (and isn't buried nearly as deep as you'd want for a single eye -- surprised the bury-length changes/shrinks for making whoopies, somehow...at least Samson's change, as that's all I use for almost all my splicing) so was gonna resplice it and it got me thinking "Why not make another Ultrasling with it? " (I just made a double-head T-Rex Ultra with Lrg rings that I had on-hand w/o any use, hopefully will finally use them a bit they do bite 5/8 bullrope really well!!) SO....comparing what I've got // what I'll have: A) Safebloc on 16' deadeye, allows maybe 2.5' thick trunk max if tied w/ timber hitch? Weak point in the sling is where buried tail terminates, and strength rating would be less-than the cordage's strength (3/4" TEC so 24k IIRC) B) SB on ~7' ultrasling, still allows a ~2.5' thick trunk (well, minus the length of its tail) As a sling, it is stronger than regular 3/4" TEC ABS (since it's essentially a double/basket configuration, with losses to the brummelling) Tightness/"slop" in the rigging shouldn't be much issue if the pockets are made tightly enough (any reco's for pocket configurations would be appreciated, wish this cord was like 8' longer as I'd like to make more, smaller pockets but don't want it coming in with shorter usability than I'd have gotten using it deadeye + timber hitching!) Think it's the smart move now, will probably splice it this afternoon actually, if anyone's got tips on how to "cheat the ending" to reduce that giant tail I'd be appreciative (for instance in Poplar Mechanic's youtube instructional he shows a modified 'butt' for Ultra's, since the end-part of the butt is really just an "aesthetic backsplicing", honestly I've been thinking "Just do 5 brummels to finish the last pocket, then some modified 'end for end' with the two tails" so there's as small a 'butt' to the sling as possible! [PS I will measure the circumference I can get w/ the same cordage, from deadeye to ultra configuration! Just gotta lay this sucker in a perfect circle to 'timber hitch' to my floor ]
  5. So I was about to make an Ultrasling for my Safebloc, when it hit me.....due to the "slop"/slack that's inherent to an Ultra (IE, you can't choke it off/cinch it tight, your hardware resides wherever the sling's pocket fits it), I started picturing setting-up a typical spar-dismantle and pictured trying to invert my Safebloc as it comes out of the pocket of an ultrasling and couldn't help thinking "This thing is only gonna hold the sling's position when the hardware is pulling-down into the sling, if I invert the Safebloc while removing slack from my system before making a back-cut then, during the tip & fall of the log - bringing the Safebloc back to its normal orientation - there's a period where there's ZERO tension on the body of the ultrasling, so what's to stop it from moving around during that moment?" Would love to hear people's thoughts, especially if you actually use a Safebloc-on-Ultrasling and have negative-rigged with it, how reliable is the sling's position on the spar during that period of the Safebloc going from inverted to normal?
  6. Re taper- I don't know how big a deal 'pattern' is, so much as how gradual a taper it is (TBH, on some earlier splices I aimed to make less smooth tapers IE to kinda 'show' where the bury ended, liked that 'look' on them, then learned that in fact if pushed to fail the weak-point on such splices[all splices?] is right at the point in the main rope where the bury ends, so if you have a really abruptly-ending tail, the 'outer' rope / main body of rope has to make that much steeper of a change in overall diameter over a shorter distance, so I think time would be better spent on making longer tapers than 'patterns' per se although clearly some kind of varied pattern would be best, I imagine you could 'optimize' more but I'm now just doing longer buries and making sure the tapers are super smooth, by making them longer but with same tapering it effectively 'smooths' the taper-transition for the outer/main rope ) I'm gonna include some snaps I took because, seeing your stuff, I suspect I think like you in many ways of building these, and would be interested what you thought of mine. Seeing yours, a few things pop out: - I'm suspecting you're using block as primary rigging point?(tried rings yet?) - What do you lockstitch DB splices with? I fought a lockstitch into one polydyne(3/4) sling, would never do it again and have 'mentally degraded' that sling's strength at least 10% because of fighting that lock-stitch into place (I milk/check/tighten my splices before use anyway so don't worry much on lock-stitching DB stuff) - Do you know if anyone's checked how well friction hitches perform under dynamic shock loading? I'd LOVE to incorporate them into my rigging (beyond the 1 spider-legging sling I have to add to my 5/8 p.dyne rope as-needed, has yet to occur lol) but suspect, and can't find info to the contrary, that their strength #'s wouldn't be nearly as high a % of static-ABS as, say, normal 'shock loading'....would really like to learn because I'd love using prussiks way more in my rigging it'd be so useful! Following are many of my splices, you can see I hold Polydyne in same esteem you seem to Though I included it as a pic (made it 1st pic), I since moved my Safebloc to a 3/4TEC whoopie (the 15' 3/4 polydyne was so unwieldy I didn't use it as much) I should note that I'm no longer going to use double braid for rigging-slings, instead choosing 12S, after some talk on Buzz re popping hardware out of the cordage, while it's unlikely the reality is that double braid splices are better off with a smoother angle at the eye//throat intersection, which is the opposite of what we want on rigging hardware IE super tight groove grip, so the brummel splice with 12S cordage is the best 'type' of rope the way I see it now since brummels are very much able to take hits (see Ultraslings) so I can make tight brummels like I did on my pair of Lrg rings or the Safebloc (will also say I only used the 3/4 TEC on lrg rings because I dissembled a flawed, premade x-sling, and had the stuff on-hand, I disagree with using 3/4 in the Lrg rings I don't think their groove is wide enough or tall enough for that matter, though I have used it w/o issue and will til I order more cordage! BTW I can't speak highly enough about the "snake anchor"(as I've been calling it ) which is the two-XL's sling, it's 3/4 polydyne obviously but it's 9.5' long, so with 1 sling I'm often able to use it as-if it were two separate slings by 'spreading' the rings in a canopy (and, in basket formation, you're getting the strength/ABS of two legs of that 26k, highly dynamic Polydyne, talk about a bombproof sling!!) I used the xl ring from the 3-ring for one ring, and ordered an Elevation Canada for the other which was <$50, shipped, and is same height but 10% wider than the XL x-ring If I had any need for more slings (have more than I need already rofl) all the hardware would be through them, excepting multi-hole hardware which, to my surprise and dismay, is still limited to 2 products by 1 company the Safebloc & the THT.. (BTW yes I did bother splicing Mercury, did 4 of them....LOVE the cordage - disclosure, I did get some free from Samson but that was after being clear I was gonna purchase it regardless so it was a nicety, not a 'try this' - used SPLife's Drenaline instructions, modified for strand#'s of course, and it worked a charm but jeebus splicing kernmantle at least that way of doing it isn't worth it and, w/ Mercury being 8.5k ABS, I'm fine w/ knots anyway as it's still stronger than my spliced Blue Moon, which I still use since I use 2 ropes and the different colors help, will certainly be buying blue Mercury once my Blue Moon is finished though!!) [2 rope SRT, using 2 "squeezers"/treesqueeze-type lanyards, lets you limbwalk places you never could've because you can spread those squeezer anchors wide and wrap around multiple unions that, individually, may not've been sufficient Similar enough concept to the 'snake anchor' idea, just spreading force in the canopy, letting you do more, further 2 color setup like this made for nearly zero mix-ups when I started the 2-rope thing]
  7. Do you splice yourself? IF so, am curious if you splice rigging rope differently? I know it's off-topic but kinda mangled a polydyne splice (well the whole end of the rope,. used it to girth-hitch a trunk we were pulling-over and it got crushed by tree//pavement) anyway the whole splicing-rigging-ropes thing has me 2nd-guessing it as concept....I've been known to beat the "static versus dynamic strength" horse to death, but with splice-testing (or friction hitches, too) i've never seen consideration for shock-loading, when I splice double braid bullrope it's done differently than my climblines (insofar as I make the buries much longer, don't cut off as much for the tapers, etc) but still in a position of wishing I had the $$ to allow the time&material to make batches to send to Mumford for break-testing! [and re splicing used rope...even w/ it being used, I never noticed the difference, feel oblivious because I've done blue moon and polydyne both new and used and, if anything, I'd have said used ropes were easier I never let any rope get "heavily used" though so maybe that's the distinction]
  8. As you say, to each their own... I do genuinely apologize for anywhere I may've come across combative or adversarial as that wasn't my intention, nor was it to insinuate "you should swap", in fact people who are long-term set in their ways are probably going to benefit(net) less than people figuring out what works for them and in fact it's in that context I expect people would most-find them superior (with you being as extremely opposite that as possible!) Re moving&lifting, no disagreement there in fact I keep a 4" pulley on a swivel just for this (never drop wood into it) and also use my stiffer (1.4% 1/2") bullrope with that, as I want smooth/tense responsiveness from my rope there, the opposite of course being dropping-wood where I love my 5/8 nylon-cored Polydyne (3.5%) through enough rings&anchors to substantially lower its "perceived weight"(or, technically, it's peak-forces as experienced by tree & people on other end of the bullrope) Really wish someone would quantify this, for instance using friction at your end-rig-point (a safebloc final anchor, for instance) is considered as "reduces forces to the tree" but I've never seen it quantified....can say that a 3-ringed anchor gives about 2-holes (safebloc holes) of friction
  9. LOL that's my go-to (ISC oval screwgates) they are great I even keep one on my saddle(on a backup prussik) as my 'paranoia biner' as I get more peace-of-mind from the steel, manual lock in some situations (I use a standard rock-O triple-lock aluminum as my primary so am not ignorant to the lighter aluminum alternatives it's just sometimes when you're uncomfortable and go to put a backup prussik or flipline out, that is when my Ice Cord w/ the ISC gets used, otherwise just great rigging biners Love ISC as a company, wish they'd get on w/ friction hardware though. Made my speedline loops using extra Mercury, 11mm kernmantle but 8.5k lbs ABS and 3.5% elongation from its nylon kern it's a stronger bullrope than plenty of the 1/2"'s offered so figured it'd be fine making loops and made pairs in lengths ~2.5' to 4', haven't been zipping often lately actually although am going to LA next week to work on storm-damage so expect plenty of use of them (and everything lol) then Rings are 'midline leave-able', though that doesn't do it for some people and I see what you mean Re a knot...I'd argue that basing your anchorage (blocks v friction-rings) on the tail-end of bullrope is completely backwards...splice that end so it slides through Lrg rings or otherwise overcome that issue, rather than base your anchorage around it, is how I see it (obviously whatever works for you works for you, of course) Will say I'm very happy w/ my setup after making it all conform to "knotless rigging", I pass spliced 1/2 and 5/8 polydyne through rings, safebloc etc and love it and am real pleased w/ how long the splices are lasting on the abused ends, can definitely see use-cases where these would be shredded weekly and tied-ends are a fact of life although knotting ends doesn't negate usefulness of ring-based only your "line w/ knot in end", uncertain what kind of knot you've got on there that'd need un-/re-doing but imagine there's an easy enough way around it, seeing the way guys like Reg Coates, Lawrence Schultz, Dave Driver etc make use of friction-anchoring almost exclusively makes as strong a case for their superiority - in general - as any form of convincing I can think of...midline-leavable, having to put a lil more time into thinking-out the rigging setup instead of knowing you can freely move pulleys all-around, is a small price to pay IMO (and, obviously, in the opinion of the youtubers I just mentioned ) Having a log coming down, that you've gotta control, if there's a system/option (ringed/friction riggings) that automatically/inherently lowers the peak-forces that a given log is capable of generating as it comes down, that is game-changing over pulleys/blocks for control of negative-angle riggings.
  10. ...because 95% of the time you're doing positive-angle rigging IE your anchor is above your log, you're able to pre-tension, etc? Or are you saying you prefer negative rigging / standard 'dismantles' with a frictionless block over a friction-device?
  11. So I'd returned a stihl 194t (thankfully stihl stepped-in to save my day, Ace wouldn't take back an un-touched unit hours later thought I was 'stuck' w/ it) and got my 'dream' saw (next to a 540xp I guess) an echo 355t. Guy told me "ready for use, no need for break-in's, just be a lil gentler on 1st tank and expect it'll take 2-3 tankfuls to reach full-power" when buying my 355t. But, when speaking to the Stihl rep over the phone and he asks "So you haven't actually cut anything, you're still 'breaking-in' by running it idle w/ Motomix?", he was OK w/ authorizing Ace to take the return but he mentions to me "just having it idle-through tanks isn't a good break-in it's actually bad for the saw".... I didn't wanna get-into that and risk losing my chance to swap my $350 194t for a $350 355t (just a *lil* difference there, right 😜 ) so didn't question him BUT the Stihl guide is clearr about no out-of-wood wide-open-throttle(WOT) for 1st three tanks.... Since I wasn't putting it in-wood (was trying to sell as-new on craigslist for $300, take the $50 loss and go get the 355t), I'd just let it idle and anytime I walked-by I'd throttle it a bit (never past ~75%WOT, hell I know WOT - anytime - is bad if not in-wood) Blew my mind to hear that could be 'bad', would've thought it the gentlest way to bed-/break-in everything! Now that I have this pristine 355t next to me (still hasn't cut!), I wanna ensure I've broken-in properly, so ANY advice is appreciated very very much! Also, specifically, I'm curious about: - should I add some (synth)oil to my canned-fuel, to richen fuel to like 35:1 or 40:1, for those 1st tankfuls? Had read of someone who does that.. - **Carb-settings** - my understanding is Echo tends to ship units kinda lean (odd considering my 194t had both H&L jets fully turned-out to the limiter-caps - lol these 2 saws are only 2 I own that came w/ limiter-caps ) Should I pull-out those limiter caps and tune-by-ear (or by ear+tach) or should I assume it's ideal as--is? Heck I just rrealized I could probably find "OEM spec" carb-settings, and simply copy those and maybe open/close in 1/10th turn increments as-needed! Although I guess that's just temporary, as there's no way that catyl/spark-screen/full-body-of-muffler will be there in a couple days and will need to richen both jets to compensate increased 'throughput'(I mod air-intakes too for more&cleaner air-availability once I'm opening mufflers/exhaust ports) Thanks a TON for any advice (asides "just go cut"!), it's not my 1st new-to-me climb saw but I'd only had a 25cc/12" and a 33cc/16" (but it's a 1.6HP, 10lbs Tanaka pig, only used when I need the 16"), so this 355t is going to trade setups and get the new(almost-new) 16" oregon setup from the Tanaka so will have "3 classes" of climb saw which was the initial ideal (I'm a small guy, so like defaulting to my 25cc when-possible (it's a $140 clone/'chinese saw' that I've had >1yr and no complaints!), then will use 14" echo bar&chain on Tanaka's 33cc, then'll use Echo w/ the 16" as-needed. This is awesome am feeling SO lucky right now
  12. I mean if you were going to set a climb anchor on a telephone pole.. You could use a treesqueeze and ascend/descend such a system safely - I'm asking what other configurations/anchor-types can be used so you could, say, use a telephone-pole as your personal "gym" for ascending/descending practice (w/o ever worrying about your anchor-integrity) [^not what I'm planning to do but knowing ^that is all I need/am looking for ] You say: "I generally use a cambium saver" On a spar? Are you meaning an adjustable-cambium-saver? Adjusted so it's ~75% the diameter of the spar, one end tossed-around the spar, and then your climb-line's pressure on the rings chokes the c.saver to the spar? (Honestly this seems about the same as a Squeeze setup, it's only that this could roll much easier... also I'd swear I've seen "for crotches only" on such anchors, I know my eye&eye rigging-sling is "for crotches only" although it 'works' choked and probably got more use that way[sling is no longer with us]) " I have never felt the need to buy anything specific. " Well this'll be "a steal" insofar as that goes as it's just a tiny bit of cordage to make a sling, already have the 2 'large' rig-rings (had to remove from rig kit as they don't allow spliced 5/8 rope to pass only XL rings/Safebloc do) and was already ordering TEC anyways so will literally just be purchasing a lil extra cordage and that'll be my "purchasing" for what'll create something I'm sure would be $75 or $100+ (but that's just arb-retail, I make my own stuff my "Squeezer" has a higher ABS than a $200 "TreeSqueeze" ;D ) Plus I enjoy splicing, it's not "factor-in your time-value for the splice" it's "neat I get to splice some TEC while watching a flick tonight!"
  13. So far as I know, a TreeSqueeze is the only product sold for cinching a spar so you can set a climbing anchor on a spar, in fact I've seen adverts for choking rigging slings that explicitly mention 'not for climbing' for instance I've never seen someone using a TEC whoopie as a climb anchor.... What do you guys do when you need vertical anchoring on a spar? ~~~ My goal here is two-fold, 1- Knowing what is/is not an OK form of anchoring climb lines on spars, and 2- Make such an anchor (already have a 'Treesqueeze-type' lanyard for this however I've got some xtra "Lrg x ring"s (#2's) collecting dust and love splicing TEC, was thinking to use 1 (making a boomer/double-head would be pointlessly redundant on a climb line, 1 lrg-x-ring, ~30mm, is far wider than a couple o-rings, ~24mm) to make a diesel 'spar-anchor' but didn't know what's safest, what's "officially approved") ~~~ Thanks a lot for any insight on this, I've heard of sling-slippage but have never seen/experienced it but I'm presuming that's the logic behind not using a whoopie as a climb anchor, but when setting anchorage on a slick spar I'd think a whoopie would be far more secure/stable than a TreeSqueeze (the whoopie would be inclined to stay in-place when not under-load, a TreeSqueeze is depending upon load on the line to hold its form..)
  14. Brocky (I'm eye.heart.trees from Buzz if it's not obvious ) I use soft-sole almost exclusively... I think I solved it (Samson's advert certainly seems to be advertising it as a 1-piece, 2-foot lanyard and that's what I'm set on!), it's not 'a hard problem' just a question of how simple/sleek a configuration is needed to solve it.. Anyways I'd very very much appreciate yours & others' thoughts on my solution before I go and make it: 1 - 3/4TEC whoopie as main lanyard-body. Adjustable-eye set to choke whoopie on the stem with a ~10" 'eye protrusion' of the whoopie's spliced-eye dropping-through the adjustable-eye. This is 1 foot stirrup. 2 - a 1/2TEC prussik loop is on the body of this ^lanyard, the loop is long enough that, after 3 wraps on the 3/4 body, it's ~10" long.... You slide this on the main 3/4TEC body to where you want your 2nd foot-stirrup. ^That should do it so far as I can see: 1-piece, simple/quick setup, secure/cinching/choking type setup....something tells me @Samson's perfect version is a funky whoopie splice wherein the adjustable-eye's "extra rope" is fed back-into the sling, can't imagine it's got 2 means of adjustment would be too risky/would be safer/simpler to just have a whoopie's fixed-eye be the fixed-stirrup, with adjustments made to length & 2nd-stirrup-placement. Pretty psyched if that solves it, can't really fault the idea but only came up with it while reading/working-off-of your post so may be missing something....seems bulletproof & simple, will be nice if it's really this easy
  15. Re Safebloc - what about other situations, can you tell me what types of scenarios you'd be doing a routine dismantle and a frictionless block would be superior? ("regular rigging", not arguing that rings are better for lifts or mechanical advantage so we can leave that aside I hope) The situation you describe in England sounds, to me, simply as "we don't get to free-fall very often", I mean the reality is almost anyone doing suburban work is working over targets more often than not, this is precisely why friction-hardware is superior - If you & I were somehow doing identical jobs, using our favored setups, and we each were finishing the back-cut on a 400lbs log.....when that log did its descent, it would generate less peak- and average-forces by pulling the rope against the friction-hardware as compared to block-based. That's not even subjective/opinion you could put a load-cell in-between the groundie and their hand-position on the bull-line and you'd see a lower peak-force from my 400lbs log that'd gone though rings compared to yours. Generating all of the friction at the bollard, while obviously quite effective, means there's maximal elongation of all that rope in the system in-between the load and the 'brakes'(bollard) which is why ring-based gives a subjective feeling of more control/consistency/precision. Put another way-- we're each about to cut that 400lbs log, our groundies are each holding the rope's tail as it exits the bollard and we're about to toss a sling on the stem before our cut: When looking at a Fioiri's Ring sling next to an Impact Block sling, why on earth migrate towards the one that *only* suspends the line, why not use the one that'll suspend it *and* assist w/ load-control? Kudos on mentioning how old they are BTW, blows my mind it took Dave Driver's proselytizing in ~2013 to get them mass-adoption (actually I feel like there was some drama over that in the context of this forum, maybe it was that someone here was already using the antal rings and splicing at-home and that's why people were upset w/ Dave's branding/sales? I'm usually against salesmanship in general but if it's superior(more-efficient, safer etc) and it's not the norm then whatever it takes to get them out there )

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