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About ArborOdyssey

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  1. So I'd returned a stihl 194t (thankfully stihl stepped-in to save my day, Ace wouldn't take back an un-touched unit hours later thought I was 'stuck' w/ it) and got my 'dream' saw (next to a 540xp I guess) an echo 355t. Guy told me "ready for use, no need for break-in's, just be a lil gentler on 1st tank and expect it'll take 2-3 tankfuls to reach full-power" when buying my 355t. But, when speaking to the Stihl rep over the phone and he asks "So you haven't actually cut anything, you're still 'breaking-in' by running it idle w/ Motomix?", he was OK w/ authorizing Ace to take the return but he mentions to me "just having it idle-through tanks isn't a good break-in it's actually bad for the saw".... I didn't wanna get-into that and risk losing my chance to swap my $350 194t for a $350 355t (just a *lil* difference there, right 😜 ) so didn't question him BUT the Stihl guide is clearr about no out-of-wood wide-open-throttle(WOT) for 1st three tanks.... Since I wasn't putting it in-wood (was trying to sell as-new on craigslist for $300, take the $50 loss and go get the 355t), I'd just let it idle and anytime I walked-by I'd throttle it a bit (never past ~75%WOT, hell I know WOT - anytime - is bad if not in-wood) Blew my mind to hear that could be 'bad', would've thought it the gentlest way to bed-/break-in everything! Now that I have this pristine 355t next to me (still hasn't cut!), I wanna ensure I've broken-in properly, so ANY advice is appreciated very very much! Also, specifically, I'm curious about: - should I add some (synth)oil to my canned-fuel, to richen fuel to like 35:1 or 40:1, for those 1st tankfuls? Had read of someone who does that.. - **Carb-settings** - my understanding is Echo tends to ship units kinda lean (odd considering my 194t had both H&L jets fully turned-out to the limiter-caps - lol these 2 saws are only 2 I own that came w/ limiter-caps ) Should I pull-out those limiter caps and tune-by-ear (or by ear+tach) or should I assume it's ideal as--is? Heck I just rrealized I could probably find "OEM spec" carb-settings, and simply copy those and maybe open/close in 1/10th turn increments as-needed! Although I guess that's just temporary, as there's no way that catyl/spark-screen/full-body-of-muffler will be there in a couple days and will need to richen both jets to compensate increased 'throughput'(I mod air-intakes too for more&cleaner air-availability once I'm opening mufflers/exhaust ports) Thanks a TON for any advice (asides "just go cut"!), it's not my 1st new-to-me climb saw but I'd only had a 25cc/12" and a 33cc/16" (but it's a 1.6HP, 10lbs Tanaka pig, only used when I need the 16"), so this 355t is going to trade setups and get the new(almost-new) 16" oregon setup from the Tanaka so will have "3 classes" of climb saw which was the initial ideal (I'm a small guy, so like defaulting to my 25cc when-possible (it's a $140 clone/'chinese saw' that I've had >1yr and no complaints!), then will use 14" echo bar&chain on Tanaka's 33cc, then'll use Echo w/ the 16" as-needed. This is awesome am feeling SO lucky right now
  2. I mean if you were going to set a climb anchor on a telephone pole.. You could use a treesqueeze and ascend/descend such a system safely - I'm asking what other configurations/anchor-types can be used so you could, say, use a telephone-pole as your personal "gym" for ascending/descending practice (w/o ever worrying about your anchor-integrity) [^not what I'm planning to do but knowing ^that is all I need/am looking for ] You say: "I generally use a cambium saver" On a spar? Are you meaning an adjustable-cambium-saver? Adjusted so it's ~75% the diameter of the spar, one end tossed-around the spar, and then your climb-line's pressure on the rings chokes the c.saver to the spar? (Honestly this seems about the same as a Squeeze setup, it's only that this could roll much easier... also I'd swear I've seen "for crotches only" on such anchors, I know my eye&eye rigging-sling is "for crotches only" although it 'works' choked and probably got more use that way[sling is no longer with us]) " I have never felt the need to buy anything specific. " Well this'll be "a steal" insofar as that goes as it's just a tiny bit of cordage to make a sling, already have the 2 'large' rig-rings (had to remove from rig kit as they don't allow spliced 5/8 rope to pass only XL rings/Safebloc do) and was already ordering TEC anyways so will literally just be purchasing a lil extra cordage and that'll be my "purchasing" for what'll create something I'm sure would be $75 or $100+ (but that's just arb-retail, I make my own stuff my "Squeezer" has a higher ABS than a $200 "TreeSqueeze" ;D ) Plus I enjoy splicing, it's not "factor-in your time-value for the splice" it's "neat I get to splice some TEC while watching a flick tonight!"
  3. So far as I know, a TreeSqueeze is the only product sold for cinching a spar so you can set a climbing anchor on a spar, in fact I've seen adverts for choking rigging slings that explicitly mention 'not for climbing' for instance I've never seen someone using a TEC whoopie as a climb anchor.... What do you guys do when you need vertical anchoring on a spar? ~~~ My goal here is two-fold, 1- Knowing what is/is not an OK form of anchoring climb lines on spars, and 2- Make such an anchor (already have a 'Treesqueeze-type' lanyard for this however I've got some xtra "Lrg x ring"s (#2's) collecting dust and love splicing TEC, was thinking to use 1 (making a boomer/double-head would be pointlessly redundant on a climb line, 1 lrg-x-ring, ~30mm, is far wider than a couple o-rings, ~24mm) to make a diesel 'spar-anchor' but didn't know what's safest, what's "officially approved") ~~~ Thanks a lot for any insight on this, I've heard of sling-slippage but have never seen/experienced it but I'm presuming that's the logic behind not using a whoopie as a climb anchor, but when setting anchorage on a slick spar I'd think a whoopie would be far more secure/stable than a TreeSqueeze (the whoopie would be inclined to stay in-place when not under-load, a TreeSqueeze is depending upon load on the line to hold its form..)
  4. Brocky (I'm eye.heart.trees from Buzz if it's not obvious ) I use soft-sole almost exclusively... I think I solved it (Samson's advert certainly seems to be advertising it as a 1-piece, 2-foot lanyard and that's what I'm set on!), it's not 'a hard problem' just a question of how simple/sleek a configuration is needed to solve it.. Anyways I'd very very much appreciate yours & others' thoughts on my solution before I go and make it: 1 - 3/4TEC whoopie as main lanyard-body. Adjustable-eye set to choke whoopie on the stem with a ~10" 'eye protrusion' of the whoopie's spliced-eye dropping-through the adjustable-eye. This is 1 foot stirrup. 2 - a 1/2TEC prussik loop is on the body of this ^lanyard, the loop is long enough that, after 3 wraps on the 3/4 body, it's ~10" long.... You slide this on the main 3/4TEC body to where you want your 2nd foot-stirrup. ^That should do it so far as I can see: 1-piece, simple/quick setup, secure/cinching/choking type setup....something tells me @Samson's perfect version is a funky whoopie splice wherein the adjustable-eye's "extra rope" is fed back-into the sling, can't imagine it's got 2 means of adjustment would be too risky/would be safer/simpler to just have a whoopie's fixed-eye be the fixed-stirrup, with adjustments made to length & 2nd-stirrup-placement. Pretty psyched if that solves it, can't really fault the idea but only came up with it while reading/working-off-of your post so may be missing something....seems bulletproof & simple, will be nice if it's really this easy
  5. Re Safebloc - what about other situations, can you tell me what types of scenarios you'd be doing a routine dismantle and a frictionless block would be superior? ("regular rigging", not arguing that rings are better for lifts or mechanical advantage so we can leave that aside I hope) The situation you describe in England sounds, to me, simply as "we don't get to free-fall very often", I mean the reality is almost anyone doing suburban work is working over targets more often than not, this is precisely why friction-hardware is superior - If you & I were somehow doing identical jobs, using our favored setups, and we each were finishing the back-cut on a 400lbs log.....when that log did its descent, it would generate less peak- and average-forces by pulling the rope against the friction-hardware as compared to block-based. That's not even subjective/opinion you could put a load-cell in-between the groundie and their hand-position on the bull-line and you'd see a lower peak-force from my 400lbs log that'd gone though rings compared to yours. Generating all of the friction at the bollard, while obviously quite effective, means there's maximal elongation of all that rope in the system in-between the load and the 'brakes'(bollard) which is why ring-based gives a subjective feeling of more control/consistency/precision. Put another way-- we're each about to cut that 400lbs log, our groundies are each holding the rope's tail as it exits the bollard and we're about to toss a sling on the stem before our cut: When looking at a Fioiri's Ring sling next to an Impact Block sling, why on earth migrate towards the one that *only* suspends the line, why not use the one that'll suspend it *and* assist w/ load-control? Kudos on mentioning how old they are BTW, blows my mind it took Dave Driver's proselytizing in ~2013 to get them mass-adoption (actually I feel like there was some drama over that in the context of this forum, maybe it was that someone here was already using the antal rings and splicing at-home and that's why people were upset w/ Dave's branding/sales? I'm usually against salesmanship in general but if it's superior(more-efficient, safer etc) and it's not the norm then whatever it takes to get them out there )
  6. Re natural crotch, it seems the optimal rope-types for hardware-based, and natty-based, systems are not one-in-the-same. My largest hank is actually a 3-strand 3/4" poly-nylon blend, solid rope but never used it on a job because I've never had situation where it wasn't worth grabbing a sling or two and my double-braid (if you don't have much experience you'll likely be surprised when trying them, for a ton of work our most-common setup was the 3-ring x-sling with 5/8 polydyne and nothing else no 2nd anchor or bollard just a 2nd set of hands on the line if afraid 1 person wasn't enough, but even just that 3-ring sling gives notable friction) Re midline attachment complaints, two things. #1, for Safebloc specifically, it's best used as a terminal anchor in which case its position is inherently @end-of-line so "having to" thread it isn't really a drawback when it's not a device you use "mid-line" but rather end-of-line. But, #2 for all Bend Right / Fiori's Ring / etc, no they're not mid-line attachable....that's a mighty small price to pay for a superior product IMO but even on that point I love Reg Coates & Lawrence Schlutz's sentiments on this IE that they're mid-line-leavable and this actually is important because when setting a system of this manner I may say "Ok for this section of the job I'm going to want Safebloc, another double-ring sling in-canopy, and that'll be enough so that, post-bollard, my groundie *feels* like I'm taking 250lbs pieces when I'm really taking 400lbs pieces", your worry/concern here would be that I realize subsequently "oh I should've added another ringed-sling" doesn't really hold because he'd simply add more friction via the bollard. BUT, if you really wanted to 'keep it real', you just set 1, 2 or 3 long-tail ring-slings onto the line, right above the bollard, when rigging-up. Then if/when you want to add friction or move the line you simply grab a tail and tie it off wherever's needed But yeah when you can setup systems so that heavy weights are descending smooth as butter and you can use 1 groundie where a block would've required 2, that's worth a LOT of caveats and "mid-line-leavability", not attachability, isn't a biggie I mean it's not going to be often you're thinking I wish I could add an anchor in the middle of a session and, if/when you do, just deal w/ re-threading or use a pre-threaded loose sling as mentioned! Re: Pulleys certainly have uses, no doubt. Blocks are a different story though, a pulley meant explicitly to handle smashing dynamic loads....with ample friction-anchors to choose from instead, choosing a block is basically saying "I'd prefer this anchor does nothing to slow the load" when there's anchors that do slow the load... Pulleys are awesome, have a 4" sheave on a swivel and nearly-12mm, 1.4% rope for using it...but see it as something for use in static scenarios (lift, pull, mech.advantage), when I'm leaving that and need a sling to hold a rope that'll be used for controlling the violent free-fall of a just-cut log I will prefer an anchor that slows the load a lil *and* reduces the peak-forces experienced by the system and the tree...."Mid-line-attach" is the SOLE valid reason I've found to use a block over a friction-anchor (rings, porty's, safeblocs etc) and that's a "convenience" reason which is pretty weak for the down-grade in system quality ie trading your "built-in brakes" for mid-line-attach, poor trade IMO (nevermind that as said Safebloc is end-of-line so that argument is null for why Safebloc slings > block-slings for terminal position, once you're bumping on the upper limits of a Safebloc[or regular block] it will be your sling that you worry about not the hardware so whether Safebloc or block you may need a 2nd, but in both cases you're inherently "stacking the deck" with "built in brakes" in the system...*such* an advantage!!)
  7. I just finished setting up my kit late last year (well ordering everything and getting a feel for it, finally just went knotless this week) Safebloc is worth the splurge for sure, am planning to get a 2nd one myself. Rigging rings are also great -- friction-rigging is state-of-the-art rigging, and blocks are obsolete it's just not everybody knows it... when doing routine rigging you never say "It'd be cool if this piece came down w/ more force/speed" lol, yet using a friction-anchor instead of a block isn't seen as "duh"-level obvious to everybody yet, blows my mind I like thinking of friction-hardware as "brakes", solid-state brakes that're added to your system, you'd be amazed at the weights I could put onto my rope if it's going though the Bloc and two ringed-anchors, groundies can use 1 hand on things they'd normally have to wrestle it really is a huge difference. Also consider pricing... unless your $$ allows you to go all-in right away, you'll have a skimpy block-based kit. Ring based though? Unsure if I even broke $500 on my system which is very heavy-duy & versatile... Elevation Canada sells XL rings for $75 a pair (free s&h) on ebay now, TEC is $1/ft on 5/8 which is great for log-slings if going knotless and $1.50/ft for 3/4 for your slings (and samson's instructionals are epic I've never missed a splice of any type using their guides, made my 9' Safebloc whoopie w/ their whoopie instructional it's so easy I'd urge someone considering it to *not* buy extra TEC "in case" because you *will* succeed on any TEC splices on 1st attempt w/ tools from your house / no specialty products) Buying a block is just silly though I mean if you look at rings and think "too lil bend-radius", remember the large Impact Block is just 3.15" wide sheave, my double-XL ringed-sling has a wider bend radius, a single Fiori's Ring does too, any double-headed ("boomer") ringed-slings, your bend-radius is often far better and having multiple slings allows simple multi-anchor-rigging (ie 1, or 4, ring-sling-redirects on trunk, in canopy etc) that are all "adding brakes" as well as spreading load! And rope...would recommend atlas/polydyne first, then nystron, 5/8 for any of them. Ideally you'd splice its end, get loose 5/8 TEC to make Ultraslings/eye-slings/etc for holding logs (that you clip your splice to) and you'd be able to use full strength of line ie in my system my weak-link is(as proper) my bull-rope at 19k for 5/8 polydyne, I had to downgrade to 2/3rd strength when using my line to knot, now that it's spliced and I can use full strength I'm going from 2/3 to 3/3 ie a *50%* gain, with that capacity being easily spread-out through the tree, w/ my rope-end kept off the rough bark of the logs I cut (oh and, of course, w/ the Safebloc on every load as terminal anchor, this'll let you rig a piece on a sketchy trunk and give that trunk less wiggle/bounce since the friction in the Bloc is subtracted from total peak force, it's inherently lower w/ a Safebloc which is better for every bit of gear in the system, easier on the groundie and safer for the climber/sawyer Good luck!! Can't advise enough to splice your own TEC, and to embrace modern friction-rigging / not buy a block!
  8. 50V...hrrm w/ Echo still not releasing a lith climb-saw I'd been hoping they'd come in w/ a lith replacement for a 16" climb saw (something akin to the 355, not the 2511) Am betting they(all companies) will end up using a 70 or 80V platform for their heavy-duty top handles (ie 16" setups), can't wait to see the 1st company release one I mean it's awesome seeing lith beat 25cc's but it's been doing that for over a year now, so surprising someone hasn't made a 16" I mean lith cells would make it so damn easy to power an 18" (have heard 50V, max, needed to beat a 50cc) so it's just a q of who makes the damn thing first, hell this new awesome-looking Lith-Echo unit is 3lbs?! I mean, I'm a small guy and hate when I gotta use my 32cc because my 12"/25cc wasn't long-enough for something and even I'm looking at this ^ new offering thinking "Instead of a 3lbs, 50V unit to replace the 2511, gimme a 5lbs, 70V unit to replace a 355T!" People still argue-about/seek power in top-handles, lithium will make that obsolete / allow manufacturers to create uncomfortably-overpowered saws very soon/now, was reallllly hoping echo's late entrance was to be for a something bigger than a 25cc-replacement (like stihl&husq have already released, hell I prefer echo but would still prefer a year-old design from stihl/husq over a just-released design from echo..)
  9. Hoping to get real people's anecdotes on Echo's 355t, *especially* from those who use(d) them, and especially Re: - Power (relative to things would be nice, 201t's and 540xp's specifically!) - longevity and, close-enough, "work-on-ability" (my understanding is husqvarna's 540xp isn't really for tinkering/DIY repair, 201t seems "half-half" in that regard...uncertain where Echo gear stands) I'm strong enough but I'm a small guy so I default to my 25cc/12" for most-everything, only using my 32cc/16" when 12" isn't long enough and I HATE using my 32cc, thankfully the "big 3's" biggest/strongest saws are all lighter than my 32cc despite being more powerful, would appreciate being corrected if wrong but I see it as a choice between: - husq 540xp, - stihl 201t, or - echo 355t if you want to get a new / warrantied unit and at those prices I wouldn't risk buying used, so I'm kinda stuck because if my 25cc dies I'd just get another unit (hell I'm getting a 2nd one soon enough just to try more aggressive mods[porting/timing] on, at ~$100 it's worth it IMO, wanna get the lil generic screamer as close to a 2511t as possible ;D ) But when my 32cc dies I see it as breaking the bank (for me) and bite the bullet on stihl 201 or husq 540 BUT it almost looks as-if the 355t is "on-par" with them despite being like 50% of the price at only $350MSRP, am I missing something? Am honestly expecting that these 3 top-offerings from husq/echo/stihl are all totally on-par with each other but if that were the case you'd think the 355t, at just $350, would be WAY more popular than it is....what am I missing? I've used enough Echo gear to form a favorable opinion in fact I think I like them better than Stihl, gonna search for 355t V 201t content but hoping for anecdotes/real-life reports from people familiar with the 355t, does it have faults I'm missing, is it under-powered given what you'd expect from reading its specs, etc would be hugely appreciated, thanks!!! [edited-in: For "longevity / 'work-ability' ", the two are nearly equal in my book as I don't ever want to need a mechanic I want to continue improving myself as a chainsaw mech so, at bare minimum, I wouldn't want a unit that was intentionally restrictive so far as, say, removing the muffler or carb. Would ideally want a unit I knew was friendlier to opening-up the block for porting although I can't even be certain I'll reach the level of talent/confidence in this stuff to ever port it, am barely comfortable attempting it on a $135 saw while having a back-up of that saw in case I mess up ]
  10. If you're still holding the arbortech setup and wanna sell..... (it's the one that mates-up to any angle-grinder and essentially extends reach and gives you a 2" wheel at the end right?) What do you carve? I get the impression this forum is for blocks of wood/ice so I know carving 1-->4" bonsai-trees makes me an outlier here lol I just figured if anywhere had good advice on maintaining a chainsaw-disc's teeth they'd be here (can tell you the bonsai guys certainly didn't have good reco's although it's fair to expect that most bonsai artists are utterly unaware that chainsaw teeth aren't "best when sharp" but "meant to be sharp for proper function" lol
  11. Am new but am a contract climber I have a 25cc/12" and a 32cc/16" it's not about that it's about precision, the use-case for my lancelot-type disc is bonsai-deadwood (I've got like 120 or 140 trees right now in my nursery), this is for bulk-removal followed by 1/4" shanked rasp-bits on a die-grinder, there's simply no chainsaw in the world that'd do this an 8" bar on a 2511t would still be FAR too-blunt a tool for the precision required here, at any rate I am very careful and do consider it my most-dangerous tool/attachment!!! But yeah honestly even this 4" wheel is usually too-large for me, on maybe 1-of-3 or of-5 of my trees there is enough deadwood-carving that using the chainsaw-disc for a minute saves me 30min of using rasp-bits on the die-grinder!
  12. Outstanding thank you!! Do you have any keywords I could google? Stoked to even find someone who's understanding what I mean by 'foot stirrup sling thingies' lol, Samson's industrial-catalog (actually may be the arborists' catalogue) shows pics of it on the TEC spec-page right alongside whoopies but leaves it un-named....have gotten quite good at splicing hollows and double-braids (only missed my 1st attempt never failed again and Blue Moon was my main cordage when beginning to learn ;D ) so am just dead-set on making SOMETHING I mean a foot-step "branch" where none existed, even a crappy swinging branch, is still of value especially to smaller, agile guys like myself If you could explain the actual cordage configuration I'd be forever grateful, it appears the sling's main cordage is simply a 12-strand spliced in a whoopie-type style but that'd just give 1 foot-stirrup and the pic Samson shows clearly shows 2 feet being supported (but the tree blocks view of the way the sling is configured) so am getting desperate to figure-out how to make my own version of *that* so I've got a baseline to begin playing around from (for instance, *especially* with you saying it's more of a 1-foot thing -- hell this idea would work on a standard whoopie I think -- I'm immediately thinking "Just add a prussik-loop to the sling for the second stirrup, can be placed wherever needed and, since pressure on that loop's hitch would be lateral to the cordage, it'd only bite as hard as you wanted it to IE you could even leave it loose-ish[with practice] to set it by-foot to proper position before reaching-down to fully engage it by-hand" Pretty sure Samson is using something more intricate than just a whoopie here but in any event am curious to see how prussik-loops may be able to help such slings (Samson's pic from industrial catalogue, would LOVE to know what this is called/named! [I guess they do 'name' it although I've put that name through google, adding 'foot'/'stirrup'/'steps'/etc etc ad infinitum and get nothing of that ^ sort....a skinny agile guy like me is likely to benefit the most from those if they're not really so stable, *gotta* figure out how to build these!!] Even if it was a 1-foot thing I bet it'd be of-use (at least *sometimes*, good to have on-hand!!), am going to try using a generic "eye&eye" ~32" sling I'd made of 5/8" TEC (generic rigging-sling, not anchor but for holding logs for knotless rigging), slap on 2 or 3 Mercury (3.5/8") loops onto it with 'biners so I can bind it and use the Merc loops as the stirrups (two of them, and the 3rd used w/ one of the TEC eyes to cinch the 5/8 TEC body of the sling to the tree....so far as I can see you just need to be choking-off the spar, and to have loops- better builds should be more versatile, not more useful/functional, if I'm understanding the overall approach/usage here...am picturing using these for the times where I think "it'd be nice to have my spurs on but it's not worth it so will deal w/o them" yknow, and it'd only be 1 extra sling brought-up with me as I've always got extra prussiks on my belt ) Agreed on diameter, have 20' of Ice Tail coming for prussik loops (and a single eye&eye for a doubled-over treesqueezer sling, when doubled-over in a spliced formation Ice Tail becomes 11mm wide) and was thinking to just use that for weight/size but I often climb w/ soft athletic shoes (am in FL) so will have to figure something out, am good at McGuyver'ing hell am already thinking I could simply use the foam handles from those rubber-band stretch/exercise bands as 'wrappers' over the Ice Tail inside a prussik loop so my foot was on that instead of directly on Ice Tail Have you ever tried anything like this yourself? Thanks a TON for replying, so glad to have found someone who understands what I mean by 'rope stirrup thingie' lol, really appreciate the info will update soon enough once I've made my first one or two of them Glad I cut my teeth on Blue Moon, had done that and 3 sizes of Polydyne for my rigging kit before splicing my 1st hollow-braid (9' Safebloc whoopie, came out great think I got it "to the pick") however am embarrassed to say I'm uncertain what a "locked brummel" is, will google right now, had always just followed Samson tutorials to the letter and it's always worked a charm so stick to that, they actually have eye&eye instructions meant just for 3/8" TEC, Ice Tail and some other comparable cordage they sell so I'd used that for my 1st eye&eye and, following instructions on length & thinking I'd be cutting-off like 7" tails from the middle at the last step, turns out they were too-short and instead of a bulge I actually have a spot where there's nothing inside the Ice Tail (ie the two tails aren't overlapping inside there) so am sure that's a serious strength-drop would never use it as a prime life-support although I'm usually climbing w/ 2 prussik loops on my line (lol that'd warrant a video to explain!) so not a biggie for me...their guide said 80" makes a 33" eye&eye, I'd wanted 31.5" so I used 77" of Ice Tail (80" minus 1.5"X2) but instead of 31.5" got 29.75", will be taking measurements tomorrow when making more to get an idea where I messed-up! Am hoping to get Richard Mumford to do some break-tests for me in the near future to test out some of my creations actually, although I'm probably going to use a boulder/limb and 'rough testing' in my yard to generate the dynamic-forces to test: Do you know where "proper" breakage/failure should occur in such situations? IE in a proper setup that was intentionally pushed to fail, should the failure be the prussik tearing, the host-rope tearing, or the prussik slipping? That last one seems the least-likely to me although I've had someone suggest it, seems impossible in my eyes I mean once a prussik begins biting more force just = more bite, can't see how that'd do anything except cause failure/breakage when increased, not slippage!! I totally get that the config isn't meant for shock-loading, *but* (IMO) neither is Stable Braid or Tenex and, by virtue of being such strong damn cordage, its lack of dynamic-capacity is negated by sheer tensile strength, so am thinking that if you just kept to a strict 10:1 *MAX, EVER!* safety-margin then having a 5/8" TEC prussik loop on a 3/4 TEC line that's got a ring/safebloc on its other end should let you get away with some serious loading, gonna have to test this as this is 3rd forum I couldn't find any real datas on prussiks/fric.hitches (hell I still can't find an answer about how strong my Ice Tail is when used as friction-hitch, I mean it's 2 legs so is it 8.5k lbs times 2? But it's a knot, of sorts, so there's that reduction....wish Mumford got sponsored to do far more testing IMO he's a god-send for this type of stuff!!
  13. Is brazing MIG, TIG or flux? I'm so ignorant on welding but was badly looking for an excuse to get into it and think I've found one ;D Will be tearing through threads there thank you, actually just signed up there recently so that's nice Am quite happy with the two mufflers I did, the one on the 25cc Scheppach got WAYYY more opened-up than my 33cc Tanaka, kinda as-experiment, although it's the one w/ the restricted/mis-formed exhaust port so muffler mods shouldn't make an iota of difference (I keep thinking, "If that mal-formed port is blocking like 1/3+ of my exhaust, doesn't that mean my saw is performing at like 75%[if that] of what it should be?") Since "this round" is done I figured to attach pics: - scheppach's muffler, cat removed and center baffle majorly opened (3rd pic is to show how I had to re-plate the top, had to bore-through it to get more access to the center and just patched it when done -- of interest is that after a couple jobs with it, the Copper Permatex I'd used that'd squished-into the muffler, is still in great shape Side-by-side w/ the Tanaka (lol yes I'm aware how ridiculous my air-intakes are, I'd been experimenting w/ goo's & fabrics/filters am embarrassed showing early works on that but so be it, next applications will be very clean ;D ) Tanaka's muffler, didn't open it up as much because I've yet to get the saw as-reliable as I'd like so don't want many extra-variables, the scheppach was bought new 8mo ago and has been nothing but reliable! 1 Large hole ^ for flow although the Cat was torn out as well as center-baffle having a corresponding hole, there's also a hole on the front/top not visible here ^majorly opened their entry-ports as OEM holes (on both!) were either restrictive or dead-equal which'd mean that any mis-alignment mounting them would restrict flow so I just made huge holes on both muffler's entry-ports, just leaving enough edging for some copper Permatex to make gaskets Went back and removed both (one to inspect, the other because I needed access behind the muffler) and thankfully neither one had an iota of Perma get in-the-way of exhaust flow, guess my approach of "thick, but favoring the outer-perimeter" works a charm, at least when that perimeter is open & can take the squish-out ;D [PS- Am curious how dangerous you guys would consider my hand-guards/chain-brake-levers? They're strong enough that I pick my saws up by them lol but I hate not being able to see so tend to dog them out like that, I wouldn't do it on a ground saw but for mid-30cc's and under top-handled climb-saws I just see it as a worthwhile sacrifice, obviously a big shield there would be safest so it's all relative I mean I do still have *some* guarding 😜 ]
  14. Ok I'm LOVING this, am ready to buy a 2nd unit (planning-to, actually) anyway and do think it'll tear when that's opened (would it be dumb to 'port&polish' the air-inlet port on the block now as well? Seems like it'd be smart, not only to 'match-up' the intake/outlet portions of the block but also just because it seems you'd want more availability pre-cylinder than post -- and it'd probably make sense at some point so since everything's opened up already...) My die-grinder is up to the task, I usually get the cheap rasp bit (1/4" shank) kits from Harbor Freight, will get the nice / fine-tipped types from Ace for this (still, do any from HF work for any part of this? As luck would have it, I was using a wire-attachment on mine to brush-finish a 12" bar a couple nights ago and my die-grinder died, I've got HF's 2yr warranty so going to see how well they honor it although I've had their $10 angle grinders break and it's just needing another 'brush' piece installed) My fear, and it's big as hell, is I've never opened an engine block / moved piston/cylinder/shaft/etc relative to each other and it scares the hell outta me that I'll somehow ruin something.... or are you saying I can do this with the piston in there / at the bottom? If I could just seal it off (am pretty confident in ability to do so) then it should just be grind, vacuum and un-seal... Re "piston skirt height // exhaust-outlet-height", wow I'd never have thought of that thank you!!! Yeah that'd be helpful to not make the port taller than the skirt, problem here is how on earth do I measure my piston's skirt? Or the port for that matter? I guess ditch real rulers and just use "~7/8th's of this chisel's tip" type measurements til I'm sure the port isn't too wide? Am sure I could do it w/o fail if I was cautious enough! I can't help but wonder if it's a tiny lil piston (25.4cc!) skirt which is why there's a wall created there in the 1st place!! Thanks SO much for all of your help, have learned more from you in this thread than in so much youtubing/googling, it's very very appreciated man!!! (PS- Since I see 200's referred to in your sig, I'd love to hear any lil soundbites you could toss me on that "chinese clone" (quotes may be unwarranted actually) 'Holzfformma G111' that's like $300 and supposedly fully-interchangeable w/ the 200t? I'd never ditch my Scheppach csp2540 for small climbing saw but my 32cc/16" Tanaka isn't long for this world has a new problem each week it can seem and was eyeing echo 355's but if the g111 is basically a 200t for $300......are 200t's really a PITA to work on? I'd think the sheer volume of data online would make them one of the easiest!!)
  15. So much to answer (this site is F'ing tops ) but wanted to add a Q on tuning-- have recently gotten impression I shouldn't be aiming for 'true optimal' so much as a touch on the fat side, am getting better tuning by-ear (tach only serves me for making sure max-RPM isn't too high otherwise I find little use which bothers me..), but I hate touching stuff once it's really dialed-in, the L & Idle 'sweet spot' balance is such a PITA on 2 of my older (more cruddy!) pieces of gear....What's 'generic-advice' for carb-tuning after a port-job? More throughput means more fuel is needed, and I just went and did a (small, thankfully!!) job yesterday where I really pushed my saws (both had had their mufflers just torn open and same w/ air-intakes) and on-job I was thinking they sounded louder but I think they were also getting a bit 'scream-y' (ie lean when pushed) the L and Idle seemed fine but I think they were def lean when run high especially not under-load or out-of-cut....have to turn-out the H screws in both saws, obviously, but uncertain about L (and Idle) ie should I only turn-in H until 'scream' goes away / til I get back to 4-stroking or should I also turn-out my L jet a lil? Thanks a ton for any info on this, am OK using the tach although I trust my ear more (which I believe is wrong/opposite ie I should be better at the tach maybe it's because mine's cheapAF? lol!)


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