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About ArborOdyssey

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  1. Hoping to get real people's anecdotes on Echo's 355t, *especially* from those who use(d) them, and especially Re: - Power (relative to things would be nice, 201t's and 540xp's specifically!) - longevity and, close-enough, "work-on-ability" (my understanding is husqvarna's 540xp isn't really for tinkering/DIY repair, 201t seems "half-half" in that regard...uncertain where Echo gear stands) I'm strong enough but I'm a small guy so I default to my 25cc/12" for most-everything, only using my 32cc/16" when 12" isn't long enough and I HATE using my 32cc, thankfully the "big 3's" biggest/strongest saws are all lighter than my 32cc despite being more powerful, would appreciate being corrected if wrong but I see it as a choice between: - husq 540xp, - stihl 201t, or - echo 355t if you want to get a new / warrantied unit and at those prices I wouldn't risk buying used, so I'm kinda stuck because if my 25cc dies I'd just get another unit (hell I'm getting a 2nd one soon enough just to try more aggressive mods[porting/timing] on, at ~$100 it's worth it IMO, wanna get the lil generic screamer as close to a 2511t as possible ;D ) But when my 32cc dies I see it as breaking the bank (for me) and bite the bullet on stihl 201 or husq 540 BUT it almost looks as-if the 355t is "on-par" with them despite being like 50% of the price at only $350MSRP, am I missing something? Am honestly expecting that these 3 top-offerings from husq/echo/stihl are all totally on-par with each other but if that were the case you'd think the 355t, at just $350, would be WAY more popular than it is....what am I missing? I've used enough Echo gear to form a favorable opinion in fact I think I like them better than Stihl, gonna search for 355t V 201t content but hoping for anecdotes/real-life reports from people familiar with the 355t, does it have faults I'm missing, is it under-powered given what you'd expect from reading its specs, etc would be hugely appreciated, thanks!!! [edited-in: For "longevity / 'work-ability' ", the two are nearly equal in my book as I don't ever want to need a mechanic I want to continue improving myself as a chainsaw mech so, at bare minimum, I wouldn't want a unit that was intentionally restrictive so far as, say, removing the muffler or carb. Would ideally want a unit I knew was friendlier to opening-up the block for porting although I can't even be certain I'll reach the level of talent/confidence in this stuff to ever port it, am barely comfortable attempting it on a $135 saw while having a back-up of that saw in case I mess up ]
  2. If you're still holding the arbortech setup and wanna sell..... (it's the one that mates-up to any angle-grinder and essentially extends reach and gives you a 2" wheel at the end right?) What do you carve? I get the impression this forum is for blocks of wood/ice so I know carving 1-->4" bonsai-trees makes me an outlier here lol I just figured if anywhere had good advice on maintaining a chainsaw-disc's teeth they'd be here (can tell you the bonsai guys certainly didn't have good reco's although it's fair to expect that most bonsai artists are utterly unaware that chainsaw teeth aren't "best when sharp" but "meant to be sharp for proper function" lol
  3. Am new but am a contract climber I have a 25cc/12" and a 32cc/16" it's not about that it's about precision, the use-case for my lancelot-type disc is bonsai-deadwood (I've got like 120 or 140 trees right now in my nursery), this is for bulk-removal followed by 1/4" shanked rasp-bits on a die-grinder, there's simply no chainsaw in the world that'd do this an 8" bar on a 2511t would still be FAR too-blunt a tool for the precision required here, at any rate I am very careful and do consider it my most-dangerous tool/attachment!!! But yeah honestly even this 4" wheel is usually too-large for me, on maybe 1-of-3 or of-5 of my trees there is enough deadwood-carving that using the chainsaw-disc for a minute saves me 30min of using rasp-bits on the die-grinder!
  4. Outstanding thank you!! Do you have any keywords I could google? Stoked to even find someone who's understanding what I mean by 'foot stirrup sling thingies' lol, Samson's industrial-catalog (actually may be the arborists' catalogue) shows pics of it on the TEC spec-page right alongside whoopies but leaves it un-named....have gotten quite good at splicing hollows and double-braids (only missed my 1st attempt never failed again and Blue Moon was my main cordage when beginning to learn ;D ) so am just dead-set on making SOMETHING I mean a foot-step "branch" where none existed, even a crappy swinging branch, is still of value especially to smaller, agile guys like myself If you could explain the actual cordage configuration I'd be forever grateful, it appears the sling's main cordage is simply a 12-strand spliced in a whoopie-type style but that'd just give 1 foot-stirrup and the pic Samson shows clearly shows 2 feet being supported (but the tree blocks view of the way the sling is configured) so am getting desperate to figure-out how to make my own version of *that* so I've got a baseline to begin playing around from (for instance, *especially* with you saying it's more of a 1-foot thing -- hell this idea would work on a standard whoopie I think -- I'm immediately thinking "Just add a prussik-loop to the sling for the second stirrup, can be placed wherever needed and, since pressure on that loop's hitch would be lateral to the cordage, it'd only bite as hard as you wanted it to IE you could even leave it loose-ish[with practice] to set it by-foot to proper position before reaching-down to fully engage it by-hand" Pretty sure Samson is using something more intricate than just a whoopie here but in any event am curious to see how prussik-loops may be able to help such slings (Samson's pic from industrial catalogue, would LOVE to know what this is called/named! [I guess they do 'name' it although I've put that name through google, adding 'foot'/'stirrup'/'steps'/etc etc ad infinitum and get nothing of that ^ sort....a skinny agile guy like me is likely to benefit the most from those if they're not really so stable, *gotta* figure out how to build these!!] Even if it was a 1-foot thing I bet it'd be of-use (at least *sometimes*, good to have on-hand!!), am going to try using a generic "eye&eye" ~32" sling I'd made of 5/8" TEC (generic rigging-sling, not anchor but for holding logs for knotless rigging), slap on 2 or 3 Mercury (3.5/8") loops onto it with 'biners so I can bind it and use the Merc loops as the stirrups (two of them, and the 3rd used w/ one of the TEC eyes to cinch the 5/8 TEC body of the sling to the tree....so far as I can see you just need to be choking-off the spar, and to have loops- better builds should be more versatile, not more useful/functional, if I'm understanding the overall approach/usage here...am picturing using these for the times where I think "it'd be nice to have my spurs on but it's not worth it so will deal w/o them" yknow, and it'd only be 1 extra sling brought-up with me as I've always got extra prussiks on my belt ) Agreed on diameter, have 20' of Ice Tail coming for prussik loops (and a single eye&eye for a doubled-over treesqueezer sling, when doubled-over in a spliced formation Ice Tail becomes 11mm wide) and was thinking to just use that for weight/size but I often climb w/ soft athletic shoes (am in FL) so will have to figure something out, am good at McGuyver'ing hell am already thinking I could simply use the foam handles from those rubber-band stretch/exercise bands as 'wrappers' over the Ice Tail inside a prussik loop so my foot was on that instead of directly on Ice Tail Have you ever tried anything like this yourself? Thanks a TON for replying, so glad to have found someone who understands what I mean by 'rope stirrup thingie' lol, really appreciate the info will update soon enough once I've made my first one or two of them Glad I cut my teeth on Blue Moon, had done that and 3 sizes of Polydyne for my rigging kit before splicing my 1st hollow-braid (9' Safebloc whoopie, came out great think I got it "to the pick") however am embarrassed to say I'm uncertain what a "locked brummel" is, will google right now, had always just followed Samson tutorials to the letter and it's always worked a charm so stick to that, they actually have eye&eye instructions meant just for 3/8" TEC, Ice Tail and some other comparable cordage they sell so I'd used that for my 1st eye&eye and, following instructions on length & thinking I'd be cutting-off like 7" tails from the middle at the last step, turns out they were too-short and instead of a bulge I actually have a spot where there's nothing inside the Ice Tail (ie the two tails aren't overlapping inside there) so am sure that's a serious strength-drop would never use it as a prime life-support although I'm usually climbing w/ 2 prussik loops on my line (lol that'd warrant a video to explain!) so not a biggie for me...their guide said 80" makes a 33" eye&eye, I'd wanted 31.5" so I used 77" of Ice Tail (80" minus 1.5"X2) but instead of 31.5" got 29.75", will be taking measurements tomorrow when making more to get an idea where I messed-up! Am hoping to get Richard Mumford to do some break-tests for me in the near future to test out some of my creations actually, although I'm probably going to use a boulder/limb and 'rough testing' in my yard to generate the dynamic-forces to test: Do you know where "proper" breakage/failure should occur in such situations? IE in a proper setup that was intentionally pushed to fail, should the failure be the prussik tearing, the host-rope tearing, or the prussik slipping? That last one seems the least-likely to me although I've had someone suggest it, seems impossible in my eyes I mean once a prussik begins biting more force just = more bite, can't see how that'd do anything except cause failure/breakage when increased, not slippage!! I totally get that the config isn't meant for shock-loading, *but* (IMO) neither is Stable Braid or Tenex and, by virtue of being such strong damn cordage, its lack of dynamic-capacity is negated by sheer tensile strength, so am thinking that if you just kept to a strict 10:1 *MAX, EVER!* safety-margin then having a 5/8" TEC prussik loop on a 3/4 TEC line that's got a ring/safebloc on its other end should let you get away with some serious loading, gonna have to test this as this is 3rd forum I couldn't find any real datas on prussiks/fric.hitches (hell I still can't find an answer about how strong my Ice Tail is when used as friction-hitch, I mean it's 2 legs so is it 8.5k lbs times 2? But it's a knot, of sorts, so there's that reduction....wish Mumford got sponsored to do far more testing IMO he's a god-send for this type of stuff!!
  5. Is brazing MIG, TIG or flux? I'm so ignorant on welding but was badly looking for an excuse to get into it and think I've found one ;D Will be tearing through threads there thank you, actually just signed up there recently so that's nice Am quite happy with the two mufflers I did, the one on the 25cc Scheppach got WAYYY more opened-up than my 33cc Tanaka, kinda as-experiment, although it's the one w/ the restricted/mis-formed exhaust port so muffler mods shouldn't make an iota of difference (I keep thinking, "If that mal-formed port is blocking like 1/3+ of my exhaust, doesn't that mean my saw is performing at like 75%[if that] of what it should be?") Since "this round" is done I figured to attach pics: - scheppach's muffler, cat removed and center baffle majorly opened (3rd pic is to show how I had to re-plate the top, had to bore-through it to get more access to the center and just patched it when done -- of interest is that after a couple jobs with it, the Copper Permatex I'd used that'd squished-into the muffler, is still in great shape Side-by-side w/ the Tanaka (lol yes I'm aware how ridiculous my air-intakes are, I'd been experimenting w/ goo's & fabrics/filters am embarrassed showing early works on that but so be it, next applications will be very clean ;D ) Tanaka's muffler, didn't open it up as much because I've yet to get the saw as-reliable as I'd like so don't want many extra-variables, the scheppach was bought new 8mo ago and has been nothing but reliable! 1 Large hole ^ for flow although the Cat was torn out as well as center-baffle having a corresponding hole, there's also a hole on the front/top not visible here ^majorly opened their entry-ports as OEM holes (on both!) were either restrictive or dead-equal which'd mean that any mis-alignment mounting them would restrict flow so I just made huge holes on both muffler's entry-ports, just leaving enough edging for some copper Permatex to make gaskets Went back and removed both (one to inspect, the other because I needed access behind the muffler) and thankfully neither one had an iota of Perma get in-the-way of exhaust flow, guess my approach of "thick, but favoring the outer-perimeter" works a charm, at least when that perimeter is open & can take the squish-out ;D [PS- Am curious how dangerous you guys would consider my hand-guards/chain-brake-levers? They're strong enough that I pick my saws up by them lol but I hate not being able to see so tend to dog them out like that, I wouldn't do it on a ground saw but for mid-30cc's and under top-handled climb-saws I just see it as a worthwhile sacrifice, obviously a big shield there would be safest so it's all relative I mean I do still have *some* guarding 😜 ]
  6. Ok I'm LOVING this, am ready to buy a 2nd unit (planning-to, actually) anyway and do think it'll tear when that's opened (would it be dumb to 'port&polish' the air-inlet port on the block now as well? Seems like it'd be smart, not only to 'match-up' the intake/outlet portions of the block but also just because it seems you'd want more availability pre-cylinder than post -- and it'd probably make sense at some point so since everything's opened up already...) My die-grinder is up to the task, I usually get the cheap rasp bit (1/4" shank) kits from Harbor Freight, will get the nice / fine-tipped types from Ace for this (still, do any from HF work for any part of this? As luck would have it, I was using a wire-attachment on mine to brush-finish a 12" bar a couple nights ago and my die-grinder died, I've got HF's 2yr warranty so going to see how well they honor it although I've had their $10 angle grinders break and it's just needing another 'brush' piece installed) My fear, and it's big as hell, is I've never opened an engine block / moved piston/cylinder/shaft/etc relative to each other and it scares the hell outta me that I'll somehow ruin something.... or are you saying I can do this with the piston in there / at the bottom? If I could just seal it off (am pretty confident in ability to do so) then it should just be grind, vacuum and un-seal... Re "piston skirt height // exhaust-outlet-height", wow I'd never have thought of that thank you!!! Yeah that'd be helpful to not make the port taller than the skirt, problem here is how on earth do I measure my piston's skirt? Or the port for that matter? I guess ditch real rulers and just use "~7/8th's of this chisel's tip" type measurements til I'm sure the port isn't too wide? Am sure I could do it w/o fail if I was cautious enough! I can't help but wonder if it's a tiny lil piston (25.4cc!) skirt which is why there's a wall created there in the 1st place!! Thanks SO much for all of your help, have learned more from you in this thread than in so much youtubing/googling, it's very very appreciated man!!! (PS- Since I see 200's referred to in your sig, I'd love to hear any lil soundbites you could toss me on that "chinese clone" (quotes may be unwarranted actually) 'Holzfformma G111' that's like $300 and supposedly fully-interchangeable w/ the 200t? I'd never ditch my Scheppach csp2540 for small climbing saw but my 32cc/16" Tanaka isn't long for this world has a new problem each week it can seem and was eyeing echo 355's but if the g111 is basically a 200t for $300......are 200t's really a PITA to work on? I'd think the sheer volume of data online would make them one of the easiest!!)
  7. So much to answer (this site is F'ing tops ) but wanted to add a Q on tuning-- have recently gotten impression I shouldn't be aiming for 'true optimal' so much as a touch on the fat side, am getting better tuning by-ear (tach only serves me for making sure max-RPM isn't too high otherwise I find little use which bothers me..), but I hate touching stuff once it's really dialed-in, the L & Idle 'sweet spot' balance is such a PITA on 2 of my older (more cruddy!) pieces of gear....What's 'generic-advice' for carb-tuning after a port-job? More throughput means more fuel is needed, and I just went and did a (small, thankfully!!) job yesterday where I really pushed my saws (both had had their mufflers just torn open and same w/ air-intakes) and on-job I was thinking they sounded louder but I think they were also getting a bit 'scream-y' (ie lean when pushed) the L and Idle seemed fine but I think they were def lean when run high especially not under-load or out-of-cut....have to turn-out the H screws in both saws, obviously, but uncertain about L (and Idle) ie should I only turn-in H until 'scream' goes away / til I get back to 4-stroking or should I also turn-out my L jet a lil? Thanks a ton for any info on this, am OK using the tach although I trust my ear more (which I believe is wrong/opposite ie I should be better at the tach maybe it's because mine's cheapAF? lol!)
  8. I should ask as well: these types of 'whoopie foot-stirrup slings', are they suitable for stance while cutting, ie could I be strapped to my sides and use the stirrup as 'point #2' the same way someone would use their spurs? Of couse spur are so much more versatile but, while I've yet to even try this configuration, I have a feeling it'll be a game-changer for me so far as comfortable work-positioning as it looks like you can just sling & adjust it, tthen your feet are floating in soft TEC instead or dealing w/ spurs! Hell I'm already thinking 3/4 or 7/8 would make a nicer footttties-sling(lol!) but just wanna make one or two w/ 1/2 or 5/8 first so I can work out any issues!!
  9. I'd gotten a bunch of 3/4 polydyne for all my slings because, hey, it's the strongest dynamic-strength/shock-absorbing bull-rrope out there!! Problem was I never used my favorite hardware (Safebloc) because it was in a "difficult" 20' tailed setup that required knotting.....sounds lame but 9/10X I'd almost be 'rushed into' just using my 5', 3-ringed x-sling because it's so easy tto set and move-down a limb re-setting it.. Ssssoo, I got 3/4 TEC and made a ~9' whoopie for my Bloc, hopefully will use it as a go-to now (can make it any length, really, as I'll be splicing a long loop from the 3/4 polydyne sling I'd taken it from!) Have another ~15' length of it, and a loose Elevattion Canada #3 ring (10% wider than x-rings but otherwise tthe same, just cheaper I paid $47 (shipped) for mine but they've got 2-packs on ebay for $75 am close to getting more I just don't need more hardware :P ) so that'll be my last DB sling, holding a single XL/#3 ring. En route now are two lengths of Samson hollow-braid, am hoping for any advice possible here as I'm good w/ double-braids (can do blue moon all day) but besides my whoopie I've done nothing w/ hollows, what's coming is: - a length of Ice Tail to make 1-->2 prussiks (got 12' I think, maybe 10' of it?), am climbing on the amazing Mercury line and Ice Tail seems an ideal complement to it, not only do I want to uses spliced eye&eye hollows for all hitches going forth but the 8mm Ice Tail, still 8.5k lbs strong, is as-if it were made to be a hitch on Mercury....my problem is that in the past when making some ~3.5' b.moon lanyards (simple lanyards w/ a 1/2" thimble in each eye) I found I was having some trouble, seems there's a minimum-lengh to have in-mind here and I just dunno it!! - a length of 5/8 TEC, getting another so I can do both but 1 will be for a foot-loops/stirrups slingn and the other will be either splicing a 5/8 thimble to each end, or making a loop, am uncertain which is a stronger setup am guessing the former but can't be sure but just want strength so I can use it as-prussik to 'spider leg balance' off my bull rope (5/8 polydyne) **ALSO** am very very curious what the #'s are on prussiks, can't get it outta my head: since a prussik has 2 legs it's 2XABS, so w/ an Ice Tail as prussik it'd be ~17k lbs strong, am asking because I'm seeing my loops here as a way to use, say, a long-tailed double-braid sling that's got hardware on one side and a prussik or two on the other, so far as I can picture it'd simply act 'as a catch' for the hardware, for instance I could have a Safebloc spliced-into one end of some long sling but, when it's time to use, you throw the Bloc/hardware around the spar and adjust the prussik(s) so they 'catch' the Bloc (like the adjusttable eye on your whoopie would), don't get me wrong I'm in love w/ TEC now but still wanna find out for sure yknow? :D Re making an adjustable ffoot-stirrup unit, is it fair for me to presume it'll be effective/versatile enough that I can ditch myspurs from any 'work positioning'? Thanks a ton for any help on any of his Ideally I'd like to order some 7/8 TEC (just for peace-of-mind I know it's over-kill) and make a whoopie using a single '#3' Elevation Canada ring I've got (it's ~10% wider than an XL x-ring), but having seen 'not for climbing' on some rigging-ring products has me hesitating to order the cordage :/ Hmm maybe I'll order the 7/8" tec anyway and use the setup as a redirect or alongside my Safebloc as a terminal rigging anchor if climbing-anchoring isn't OK! Would also be curious whether anybody could tell me *anything* about how prussiks perform in rigging-sling applications? Specifically, I'm looking at a 3/4 polydyne sling (long 15' tail with a generic 3/4" steel thimble in its eye) of mine and wondering why I couldn't just take a couple loops of climb-line (mercury & blue moon on-hand), make prusik(s) to put on the other-side of the line and then 'choke' hm up, I can't fault this idea yet since I've never seen it it makes me wonder..)
  10. Would LOVE to know anything you can tell me about (generalities) how a saw behaves / should be approached after modding, whether it's %oil in my fuel, or if H/L/Idle tend to need up or down adjustments, etc (also, should I still treat my OEM-RPM's as gospel for Idle? Am pretty sure I always respect it for max-RPM but uncertain if Idle-RPM is different for a modded saw, don't wanna be choking-back the saw while tuning with a tach trying to put Idle&Max rpm's to OEM-spec!) Dumb Q but TDC is when the piston is on the side where spark-plug is right? As-in it ignites from the top-mounted spark-plug right? Wanna ensure I get this right, I've cleaned-out my muff-mod shavings but would still like this type of peace-of-mind! Agreed on center walls/baffles, I look at entire "through-flow" of a unit for instance the Tanaka tcs33edtp I'm finishing-up right now has two largggge slots carved into the plastic shell right beside the internal air-intake box (there are a couple circular holes drilled elsewhere as well, all have a thin foam sheeting epoxy'ing them in-place, gives more, cleaner air as-needed), then ensured that the opening/volume of the opening of the exhaust-outlet-port on the block was the 'choke-point' from there onward IE I polished the outlet port then widened the muffler's 'intake hole', drilled generously through its center wall & cat, then put multiple holes in its outer wall (two on the back-half of the muffler IE pre-center-baffle!) So far as I can tell, that means my 'choke-points' are now the block's intake&exhaust ports IE a porting and timing are the only real power mods left (and maybe a better fuel? Am using 95oct Husqvarna pre-mix, no additives.....do modded chainsaws ever get to the point they benefit from octane-boosting?) "Take it too far and you lose gains" -- so you're saying there IS a back-pressure phenomena to be respected here? Crap, have just been opening stuff w/o regard for back-pressure....Please *plz* tell me anything you're willing to on this subject, I open-up my air-intake and my muffler in the belief it's letting my block operate a bit more powerfully when in a hard cut, would hate tto find some of my mods have been sabotaging me!! Does mild porting = a dremel or die-grinder with a sanding-pad (or light/non-aggressive carbide rasps), just opening-up the inlet&outlet ports of the block, no more / no less? And you mod saws yet you've got 3 un-modded 2511's?? I'd gotten impression that saw was hugely benefitting from mods in fact that's part of why I've got such hope for my generic 25cc is that it's a clone of the 2511 in so many ways, am planning to get a 2nd unit very soon so I can begin more aggressive modding on it to see how far is still safe/reliable so I can then have 2 units that're that way, combined w/ me always having extra, new chains on-hand (as a rule for months now, 2-3 extra chains for all units but at least 1 new/untouched chain ) not only as redundancies but for longer days or simply when I want to impress it's nice to have that razor-sharp new-ness which, on most saws but moreso on modded ones, just makes cutting a treat Ah Reg Coates, guy is amazing I watched every one of his videos at least once when I was starting it was like free online education, sadly in his latest video in the last ~1/3rd he starts talking about how he's going to stop or scale wayyy back, hope he reconsiders!! Well put!! I'd begun doing "make it professional at all costs" work, now it's "function first, w/ attn paid to form if convenient / if there's time" ROFL but they're my saws they're covered w/ stickers / get beaten up / don't need to be pretty they need to be comfortable & powerful Re *how* to muffler-mod, would really love to hear anything you can offer IE do you use a die-grinder or dremel to make slotttts/slits instead of drilling holes? Do you pierce the "inside half" of the muffler? I've found that, even once I've done 1-3 extra holes on the front half of the muffler, and put 1-2 good sized holes in the center wall/baffle, that I still want a hole (or 3!) on the walls of the muffler's inside-half.....I still can't get a straight understanding on whether back-pressure is a consideration here, in fact if I get the time I'm going to benchmark a unit w/ its muffler on & then benchmark with the muffler removed entirely I'll do upward cuts so I'm chipping away from the saw and just use some quick shroud over the exposed exhaust outlet so I can safely do a series of up-cuts on same log w/ and w/o muffler -- my ability to detect subtle differences here sucks though so anything you can share Re back-pressure in a muffler would be greatly appreciated, also what to do after "through-flow" mods (air-intake, muffler mods for much better flow-possibility for block/cylinder), ie should oil% be kept identical? If I tune by-ear should I just do a re-tune (and, if so, which ways should I be expecting things to go? I modded a muffler on a 25cc and didn't touch the carb and it's acted fine since, guess it's possible I didn't open it up enough!!) [PS-- Think I mentioned 'high-heat spraypainting a muffler", at any rate I did use white Krylon high-heat on the Tanaka muffler (matches its shiny new Oregon bar ;D ) and while it was only 1 session I did put a few hours on it and the paint showed zero wear or signs of loss-of-integrity, am now going to get a red high-heat to spray a different unit's muffler IE that 25cc I mentioned modding but not needing to retune its carb, am sure that'll take/want a more extensive modding -- and it's the one with the huge ridge in the exhaust-port that'll be getting ported -- am totally going to get into habit of spraying my mufflers when they're off I know some see it as tacky but I like it 🙂 ]
  11. Would love to know if you've got any formal writeups spud? You seem the go-to guy around here for mods!! just so I'm crystal clear, I remove the plastic shell to get access to the block, then remove the block's connection to the lower/shaft case area, to get the block/cylinder "alone" to do this w/ carbide bits-then-sanding bits (on die-grinder & dremel) right? Have never actually touched a port before... And you're right I have to learn more, **any** resources you can suggest would be majorly appreciated, I'm having a TON of trouble finding good content (am youtubing "chainsaw mod****", "stihl tim*** advance" etc every day's coffee-time for over a week now w/o finding much I didn't already know, at best I can kinda glean info from listening to a couple of youtubers discuss saws they did but they're not for the ignorant ie no explanations of anything just talk as-if you're in the know already) Would read for days if I'd had some url's for good 'chainsaw modding megathread' type content ;D ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
  12. Makes sense Re tachometer being useless here (BTW am I doing myself a disservice by getting a cheap generic pressure gauge? My cheap/generic tachometer has served me well!!) How would you guys recommend benchmarking? I've been thinking to just get several long, homogeneous-girth logs to keep for log-cutting-comparisons, I've done cut-speed before and felt like the 'realest' way to benchmark a saw (I was doing 3 cuts and averaging the best 2-of-3 to compare a couple before&afters) So you guys are pretty confident that's an OEM-defect? Did you see the pic someone posted on p.2 of the echo cs355t where it's got a similar thing going on? It's a weird look, that is for sure, and my instinct is that it'd be just-fine to remove it entirely (and to open-up the whole port on the echo 355t) but would wanna measure/notate the piston size&path/positioning before removing much from there! I'll get pics, think there's some online already but mixed-into larger albums ("tanaka restoration" etc) Fully agree Re that center 'wall'/baffle, all my 2-strokes have it, I've always seen it as somethingg my muff-mod *has* to incorporate otherwise it's kinda pointless.....I dunno, I *do* put holes in the back-half of the muffler, I tend to do 1-3 holes in the back-half, pierce the inner/middle wall('baffle') at least 2x, and then 1-4 extra holes in front half and widening or OEM hole in many instances. Have burnt a lil plastic but that was my fault forgot to even consider it before use was my husq 125b blower thing was getting red-hot glowing muffler after use after some mods! [Note- someone asked so *YES* my Tanaka has a cat(yl.convrtr) however I drilled right through it as well as the center wall/baffle it was affixed to, when modding that muffler - total pig of a mod-job that one, the muffler's 2 retention bolts did nothing to properly line-up the hole on the muffler to the identical hole on the exhaust-outlet on the block so I had to majorly widen the muffler's opening-port and just use Permatex copper for sealing it back on there. Can you tell me ANYTHING about the re-tune? I, sadly, still can't do a decent tune w/ the tach I do it by-ear, am good at that (just use my tach to ensure I'm in-range on Idle & Max rpm's) but am very very curious to know anything of relevance here whether it's minute alterations in oil% in the fuel or if H/L/Idle should be adjusted(&how!), anything would be greatly appreciated!!
  13. LOL right?! But it's too 'precise' an imperfection I mean I've seen WAY rougher/uglier CNC'ing (or are such ports done after the block is cnc'd? Kinda picture it the block & its ports to all be from 1 piece, presumably aluminum? I know the 25cc in my echo pole-saw is magnesium["military grade" WhateverTF that means..] block but think most are aluminums probably 6000 series/zinc or alum&zinc&magnesium alloy [mostly aluminum] still) It looks like it's "asking to be ported" there doesn't it? I want to just make it as wide-open as the most liberal exhaust porting of a 200t you've ever seen, at all-spots it'd be just as-thick-as the innermost(cylinder-wall) portion of the outlet (@minimum) and wider as it gets to the outlet//muffler interfacing (by the way, gaskets here often suck and poor prep on my part has led to me grinding some - to accommodate modded mufflers) That's my intuition, but I fear my ignorance on back-pressure could F me here and would hate to miss that or anything that I could be missing....am also planning to ditch all of those ~3/4mm factory 'gaskets' metal-spacers between say muffler&exhaust-outlet-port and instead do a (careful!)bead of Permatex(have Red and Copper, and the reg.-temp "Gray" that's 'high-torque' but never opened/used that one yet, unsure if I'm going overkill with my temp worries....I've done 1 full day >3hrs cut-time minimum with my muffler painted w/ Kryon high-heat(for bbq's, not for car-headers!) and it looks unaffected so far, need a laser thermom....that and press.//vac gauges are next order, had always relied on feel for compression but think there'll be *some* things worth benchmarking w/ precision before/after mods of the sort I wanna get into. FWIW my intent is to get a 2nd one of these 25cc units exclusively to 'push mods' and have peace-of-mind if I destroy it or need to shelve it for weeks to work-through something (as it's my default saw for anything ~11" and under which makes the vast majority of my cuts!!)
  14. When I clicked to this link (my 1st-post & 1st-thread on this site, on a topic I was getting crickets on elsewhere so was just hoping for a couple bites) and found I was on Page 3 of a thread I figured I mis-clicked somewhere....Thank you all a million times over, 3 pages of replies I am just beside myself, can't believe I wasted so long before setting-up an account here (just wait, I'll actually read-through the 3 pages and find it's just insults to my topic / wording /etc LOL am hoping/expecting not but lol that'd be funny as I won't be caught-up on this thread til this evening) Seriously guys(&gals, I hope - my ideal woman certainly wouldn't be out-of-place replying to this type of thread ) thanks a ton for answering the thread, truly!!
  15. After a couple years' of carving my bonsai's deadwood with this as my go-to for 'roughing-in' cuts (I usually work w/ sizeable bonsai so lots of wood can need removal from a single tree), I've since learned how integral chain-sharpness is and that's w/ my real saws (heck I've begun using cheaper chains - "Trilink" is the brand I think - simply so I switch chains more often, can rarely get a client or homeowner to think sharpening on-site is anything more than "You didn't sharpen before getting on-site like you should've" so my thinking is to have extra chains so I can always have a new chain or a sharp-chain since, w/ extra's, I can just sharpen 2-3 of the used/extra ones and then go to a job and just swap chains 2-3x in a day if I want and it'd be far easier than trying to deal w/ on-site sharpening!) SOooooo....how on earth do you guys sharpen these 4" chainsaw-discs for angle-grinders? Am close to just grabbing my 5/32" file in one hand, the chainsaw disc in the other, and justtt work my way through the ~15-20 teeth on it but, being new & seeing a sub-forum like this (wish I'd found this sub years ago before I ever even pondered climbing/cutting as a profession, have been carving bonsai-deadwood nearly half a decade now ) so wanted to ask, will not bother w/ more Q's here will be going through all the old threads I expect this'll be a treasure-trove of information for me Thanks a ton for any advice on this one, am able to fully clean-out and re-lube it, am thinking it'll be simple-enough to take its rakers down a lot, but since regular tootth-sharrpening is so angle-dependent I'm afraid I won't be able to be anything near consistent/uniform as I go around that 4" chainsaw disc's 22 teeth, will probably have angles from 20deg to 45 and just make it want to pull but reality is I need it very precise because of how it's used..


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