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billpierce

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Everything posted by billpierce

  1. Looks like your having fun. Dont be afraid to get stuck in deeper to the wood, helps get away from the made from cylinder shape. Quite often doing 2 cuts like a giant wiggley v gouge is a good way of getting away from the standard chainsaw thick cutting lines as well. Also you cab use the front tip of the bar on half revs moving from side to side to kind of chisel off material in ways that are hard to do without this technique. Never tried aspen or tamarack. Birch should be ok but wont last outdoors well. Spruce is ok but like alot of softwoods, can be hard to get a detailed chisel finish. Oak is good and takes detail very well and lasts good. Hard, heavy and dear though. Im still working my way through a wagon of tight grained larch i got which looks great but a bit fussy when you get down to chisels. Sycmore and lime are nice and waxy, but wont last well. Same with holly. Depends if its going to be outside but I'd defs have a go with all the things you have on offer and just have a good play.
  2. I used a battery grinder with a 1mm cutting disc. Go easy, very easy to bungle it and take the chrome off the tooth/ get wrong angle. I'd do a few with a flat file first. Also worth doing some bore cuts without having done it so you can compare before and after effect
  3. Hope confidently felled that with your truck parked there?
  4. Had a rayburn no.2 which i believe was 1940s. It was still working well just didnt produce enough hot water for rads. Not a single crack in any of the castings. Proper job that.
  5. Made a start on a stretching out hare this afternoon. Larch again
  6. Link to diagram at bottom of page http://www.chainsawsculpture.co.uk/carving/carvingtools1.htm
  7. Cant get it to focus if i zoom in too much. Here is a pic of standard heel and ground heel. The back of the cutter is filed ( i actually used a grinder but flat file works just boring)
  8. Grinding the heels off backs boring easier and tip of bar gets less hot. Knowing when to out the saw down and get the chisels out is an art in itself!
  9. Ed robinson used to have a brilliant webpage on carving tips, cant find it now, mick burns might have some good info on his. As simon says, watch the chain tension, watch out for a bar tip that is burning hot/smoking/ slinging black oil off as it will quickly deteriorate. Also bore cuts will heat it up quicker. May help not to run the saw on full chat too much while your finding your way with correct tension. Basically treat it gentle, dont bury the tip the twist it about hard etc. Few pics here of chain tension and ground off heals Enjoy!
  10. I have a milenco one mark. The key snapped on mine, obvs at the end of what would have been an easy friday. Couldnt smash it off, had to borrow a grinder and cut it off, which was depressingly easy. However it did make alot of noise, and I was able to replace the lock and weld it up again.
  11. Reckon itll be fine, may warp/twist a bit, but if you choose the bits you are going to use carefully itll not split and fall to bits. I've used loads of 2" slabs in the house, all air dryed outside doubt it was below 12% probably higher. Some has warped a bit, some has split slightly, but all looks good and not fallen to bits
  12. Those fags won't smoke themselves joe
  13. rob mordecai at land based trainig will probably be able to help you out
  14. All sorted, rang the workshop, went through the ECU reset. Even got the no stress working! Many thanks, great service!
  15. I'd speak to shavey on here about oem spares. Doubt meteor make them for makita much but could be wrong. Itll be cheaper to fix, but if you value your time alot then not by much. Depends if you like fixing stuff I guess
  16. Nice sesh round the fire last night. Rare no wind, no midges
  17. Filters are a few months old and clean. Yes throttle is down on the adjust screw. Honestly it chips well and works fine. The idle rpm is about 550. Could it be the rpm sensor is goosed?
  18. Cant find what the running rpm should be? Manual says speed is 2300rpm . When throttle is right down it makes about 1250rpm, throttle linkage appears to be fine and has full articulation both on the lever and on throttle on engine. The run button on the ECU does nothing, I know on some greenmech this will increase rpm, but don't know if this should work or is just there as it's a standard controller across models. Either way it chips fine and I would say you notice it chipping slowly compared to say a tw150 etc. Just checking its revving out correctly. It's the isuzu 3Lb1 3 pot non turbo

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