billpierce

Its an amazing stone floor, some of the slabs are 4ft square. Ideally id lift it stick a dpm in, insulate and underfloor hearing pipes in, and re lay it, but this will be pretty expensive/mega time consuming, so toying with idea of insulating and laying a wooden floor on top with v shallow timbers laid on the stone, this wouldnt destroy the lovely stone if we ever wanted to change in future, also a pita. If it was just me there id probably just put up with a damp cold floor like. But hey ho. Only about 1.5 miles to the big lights of allendale, which has a coop and pubs. 20 mins to hexham, which has a few builders merchants and that, so its not too far out, but also not really on the way to anywhere else. Only about a couple miles from where we stay at the minute, but bigger and with a few fields and bit of wood.

Here are a few random pics of what its like just now

Certainly have, got a digger on hire making a track so it is can be driven to, then need to sort out alot of renewables, and wiring in house, insulate all the walls, renew windows, few wooden floors down, convert an attic into a bedroom, sky lights in, re fit bathroom, carpets upstairs, jobs a gooden!

I also sound that video meant my saw didnt run. I cant quite remember but , im sure it says something about starting out with one of the screws right in and then turning it out and taching it - couldnt get past this so just would it out a bit and went from there. I've spent so long trying to set mine up perfectly, and its pretty good now, but im hesitant to turn the screws in so i can tell you the settings, as it could take me hours and several tank fulls to sort it out again! Fiddley wee buggers. If i remember correctly the h screw did something mad, like us you unwind it beyond one turn, the revs died off as youd expect, then pick up quite nicely again, out beyond 2.5 turns. Worth a good play with it anyway. Bear in mind all of the above may be completely unique to my saw and of no help what so ever.

Sadly zero progress eggs, other than noticing leaky windows etc.....have bought a new gaff which hasnt been lived in for a good while ( no electrics) so renovating that and working has taken over. Truck is out of mot and parked off the road so eating no meat, suspect itll be on the back burner until the house is vaguely livable. I forget, did you sell your bus eggs?

Was pleasantly surprised. Got the 6ah ones off ebay, had a 30 day no quibble return, they seem to be performing as well if not better thank makita ones. Also have a year guarantee. Using them in the chainsaws. Half the price of makita ones and more Ah.

I can confim that the waitley 6ah batteries a pretty decent. Have had two with my makita duc35 and they last well, and give good power, better than the makita 5ah batteries. Id defo get a battery saw for the job you ask. Used mine all day as a chipper saw the other day doing a nasty big line of connie bashing and battery lasted all day. Pair of waitley 6ah batterys are 50quid.

Makita EA4300F38C 43cc Petrol Chainsaw (38cm) + FREE Spare Chain | Fastfix WWW.FASTFIX.CO.UK The Makita EA4300F38C chainsaw features a 43cc 2-stroke engine that provides 3hp and is ideal for landscapers and land owners. Starting is easy thanks to Makita’s “easy start” system and M2M vibration dampening make this unit ideal for extended use. sorry i mean ea4300

As usual i highly reccomend makita ea4301 cheap, relatively powerful ( compared to cheap stihls and huskys) and well built.

Yep shouldnt be doing it. And 3kw genny should do a 800w drill. But it could be that its chinese 3kw or that the genny is knackered. Thus suggesting trying a similar power and type of power tool to see if genny or tool at fault. When you say tripping do you mean stalling or tripping the fuse/rcd?

If it works ok on mains id say its surging on startup. Motors do this. I have a 2000w grinder that i can only run on a genny if i flicker the trigger on startup. Genny dies if i just switch it on. Have you got some other meaty motor tools you can try on the genny?

Yah found it here Arboricultural Association - Draft for Consultation: ICoP – Tree Work at Height TREES.ORG.UK <h2 class= dblue bold >Revised Industry Code of Practice for Arboriculture – Tree Work at Height</h2><h1 class= blue bold display ><span class= blue display >INDUSTRY CONSULTATION</span></h1><h3 class= orange bold >Please submit all responses by Friday 17th January 2020</h3><p class= lead >This is the ‘<a href= https://www.trees.org.uk/Trees.org.uk/media/Trees-org.uk/Documents/ICoP/ICoP-Dec19-ConsultationDraft.pdf target= _blank title= ICoP Draft for Consultation ><span class= bold blue >draft for consultation</span></a>’ for the second edition of the AA’s ‘Industry Code of Practice for Arboriculture – Tree Work at Height’ (ICoP) – First edition published in 2015.</p><p>This revision includes editorial and technical revisions throughout the document but there are specific, significant amendments in:</p><ul class= wia > <li><b>2.8.4 – Crane</b></li> <li><b>2.8.6 – Personal fall protection systems</b></li> <li><b>2.9 – Work positioning and rope access</b></li> <li><b>2.11.6 – [Equipment selection] Performance specifications</b></li></ul><p class= m30 >As with the first edition, the ICoP is aimed at the ‘<b>Responsible Person</b>’ and the ‘<b>Competent Person</b>’ within arboricultural contracting companies. The aim of the ICoP is to identify the principal planning, management and supervisory requirements necessary to establish safe systems of work for tree work operations at height. It is due for publication in early 2020.</p><h3 class= dblue bold >Responses</h3><p>Please read through the draft and make note of any comments. Please then complete the short ‘<a href= https://www.surveymonkey.co.uk/r/2CQ5HB3 target= _blank title= Click here to take the survey ><span class= bold blue >Survey Monkey</span></a>’ questionnaire, adding any extra information where requested.</p><p>If you have a longer or more complex comment or query, please email to <a href= mailto:[email protected] ><span class= bold blue >[email protected]</span></a> with ‘<b>ICoP Draft for consultation</b>’ as the subject title.</p><h4 class= orange bold mt20 >Please submit all responses by Friday 17th January 2020</h4><p>Please use the link below to review the <a href= https://www.trees.org.uk/Trees.org.uk/media/Trees-org.uk/Documents/ICoP/ICoP-Dec19-ConsultationDraft.pdf target= _blank title= ICoP Draft for Consultation ><span class= bold blue >draft for consultation</span></a>.</p><p>You can provide feedback via <a href= https://www.surveymonkey.co.uk/r/2CQ5HB3 target= _blank title= Click here to take the survey ><span class= bold blue >Survey Monkey</span></a> using the link below or the links within the PDF.</p><p class= clearfix mt20 mb20 ><a class= button2 href= https://www.trees.org.uk/Trees.org.uk/media/Trees-org.uk/Documents/ICoP/ICoP-Dec19-ConsultationDraft.pdf >View Draft for Consultation ></a></p><p class= clearfix mb20 ><a class= button2 href= https://www.surveymonkey.co.uk/r/2CQ5HB3 >Take the Survey ></a></p><p>Thank you for taking the time to review the draft for consultation, your feedback is extremely valuable in helping us complete this important new guidance.</p>

Cannae see it

Pop a link up again will you or someone? Ta

God this whole things a nightmare

Was talking about this at work today. Also though that a second line, used more like a lanyard with a tail long enough to decent the tree coiled in a small bag on harness a workable solution?

In that or any self rescue scenario, it it was me using 2 full lines, id immediately ditch the second line and decend normally. Ffs its an emergency! Any good?

Aye andy, mines a solid fuel rayburn, dont think youd ever need an engineer for one of them, and they do 13kw to hot water or something mental like that. They a made like tanks. Prolly if you intend on having both fires lit most of the time then a 2 heat source system would be ok, but if one is for an evening heat boost in a sitting room i wouldnt have this on a bb as it really effects how much heat output to room they give out.

basically your knackered in a power cut unless you do this as you will quickly have boiling water in your back boiler

did it myself, but have since seen a few other peoples systems and been very impressed - a pal has got rads all over his house all working on gravity in ways that look impossible (he got a plumber in )

Oh and id go for 1 fire doing rads and hw, rather than 2 and more complicated system. Just make sure the back boiler you have is up to doing the rads you require, as irs not much fun trying to get the house warm if the bb is too small ( been there). Currently have a rayburn 355. Very good.

It should be easy enough to setup a thermasyphon radiator or two and have yer cylinder all circulating without the need for a pump. In my house 1 rad downstairs and 3 up stairs all work without a pump as does the hw cylinder ( make sure its a proper gravity fed one). When the pump is on the rads just get a bit hotter.

You can buy marlow bungee elastic off ebay in many thicknesses. Dont know if that helps? Is what i made my diy haas from

Last time i looked the back boilers on these werent meaty enough to do central heating and hot water cylinder. Which seemed daft cos they look pretty nice and also seem very efficient to use

If using a bike pump ( i do) you need a proper decent one rated for alot of psi like the sks rennkompressor 230psi. The cheap ones just break