spudulike

On chain speed, the only time the chain speed would be faster is if the saw was tuned outside of the manufacturers max revs specification. Personally I keep just under that to give a bit of engine protection. Interestingly, an airleak would also potentially give a faster chain speed. On Vibes, not sure why a ported machine could vibrate more than a standard one. In reality running a ported saw is a bit like holding a standard saw lightly out of the cut giving a similar chain speed but with the ability to put a bit more pressure on the cut to achieve faster cutting. The history of porting was forged in the forests if Oregon where cutters wanted to run long bars on smaller saws so they ran semi and full skip chains on modded 460s and the like to save using heavier saws like the 660. Tiredness kills and that is why the Echo 2511s and MS150s are so popular today. I agree on maintenance, seen many machines where a good clean would have given an increase in performance. It is the owners choice as to whether they want to modify their saws or not and I always point out that they should be used for personal use and not be given to employees.

Guess what......yes! And a ported blower.... and strimmer?

Just run them dry of fuel, worth flushing the fuel and oil tank out to get rid of any build up of chip or gloop in the tanks. If you use any sort of bio or veggie oil, clean the saws and separate the bar and chain.......in fact, clean the saws anyway, always good for its health.

Sounds like the oiler hole in the bar doesn't line up with the oiler channel. The bar should have a small separate oiler hole around 3mm from the edge of the bar and not oil through the larger chain tensioner holes like some do. Check the oiler hole, if present, to make sure it isn't blocked. Also, make sure the oil pump is turned up to max to see if this has an effect.

Just been talking to my Mrs about this, I picked up around 500,000 views on my "what's on your bench" thread in around two years and then around another 150,000 in the last three years. One member thought my porting thread had a large lump deleted as it had no posts since last March. I guess Facebook (don't use it) and some of the Brexit and Political debates put most off leaving only a few loyal posters left. It is a shame but not much you can do about the change in people's posting habits.

The saw cuts at around 9500rpm, an unlimited coil won't do anything for you apart from making tuning top revs a little easier!

The chain running thing will either be an air leak, dodgy clutch spring or carb adjusted incorrectly. The saw will backfire if the key has gone but may just be excessive fuel vapour in the muffler after unsuccessful attempts to start it. Take a look at the piston by taking the exhaust off, may have a bit of a seize!

Around 17 years on a Stovax Riva inset. Replaced a holed baffle and seals last year!

You selling the ported 441 then??

Free wood here....I say free but I am a firm believer of the bartering system so tend to throw in a bit of help or a good servicing deal to offset one of the local guys dropping a bit of wood off for my log burner. Last lot was hornbeam....thanks Rob, before that lime....cheers Rich/Gareth and before that Acacia....thanks Andy. I have in the past, gone out and cut up fallen boughs from the side of the road and fields with the owners permission but generally there are one or two customers wanting to get rid of some rings if you aren't too sniffy on wood types.

Trebuchet to be precise

Take it in to your local dealer and get a price for rebuilding it

Mister Solutions went tits up and Andy started a new company in his wifes name called Tree and Grass Spares (his company name not his Mrs) and trades predominantly on eBay. L&S are a quality supplier of Stihl and many other parts.

I think I can fix it Someone will still pay good money for it on eBay

Electric or Petrol? If electric - the motor usually starts up when you release the mains water pressure by pulling the lance trigger, a plunger mechanism registers the drop, a switch kicks in and the motor turns on. If the motor isn't switching, it is probably the switch or possibly the plunger that registers the drop in water pressure is stuck. Not done petrol ones but am guessing they work in a similar way.

There are some things in life where money spent equals a worthwhile expenditure - Optics (binoculars etc), HiFi, drills and ...tap and die sets. I have an old Hilka set from 70-80s and they are damn good taps - a good cheap ebay find. I like Vcoil helicoil stuff as it gives a well formed thread. The cheap Chinese stuff just doesn't cut the mustard...simple as that. The Chinese have the engineering to create a decent tap but we want cheap and that is what we get! For custom stuff like fitting new plug holes, I get a single tap to do the job and agree Dormer are the dogs but a bit pricy unless you are cutting threads every day. Brake Calipers - just get a new part - they are a safety device - who wants the dread in the heart when approaching backed up traffic to find no brake action....just saying - you may not get a second chance!

I did think that would be your normal "LOOK" from your typical posts

Hi Barrie....where have you been....had a weird coil once, the blower would idle beautifully for ages, pull the throttle and the thing would die but let it off and it would idle again.....and have had a few non working coils on these blowers same as you.

What are we supposed to use, harsh language "The path of the righteous man is beset on all sides by the inequities of the selfish and the tyranny of evil men. Blessed is he who, in the name of charity and good will, shepherds the weak through the valley of the darkness. For he is truly his brother's keeper and the finder of lost children. And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy my brothers. And you will know I am the Lord when I lay my vengeance upon you." You're only supposed to blow the bloody doors off “Torture you? That’s a good… that’s a good idea. I like that one, yeah.”

Now we know what model - yup, these blowers tend to wear through the kill circuit wires near the top of the recoil cover and have repaired a fair few. The usual sign is that you cant turn the machine off but I guess you could get a short of some sort. I have seen a few with metering arm issues where the arm has jammed open or the machine will run for a few seconds due to fuel starvation and lifting the arm a tad has sorted it hence my earlier comment.

Yup, best left to sort itself out. The title is major harsh as DPD are a pretty decent courier and the supplier looks to be being more than fair about the issue.

WTF is a rev trigger BTW

Firstly, that big blob of glue is stopping your saw revving out as it should and isn't a great idea and yup, I have seen this problem before and the fix is pretty logical, by pulling the throttle trigger closed, the mechanism pulls the throttle open fully and then tries to open it that little bit further and something has to give and that is, the throttle rod pops out of position. You just need a bit more slack in the two throttle control rods as currently, they are too short!

I was thinking Mobylette or Gitane!