spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Haven't mentioned the cling film wrap and plastic bag yet?
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The earlier ones had a greasing screw, the later ones had no screw and are sealed. Just take the attachment off, take the gbox off and turn the output shaft lightly both ways. If it feels notchy, tight, rough or there is a lot of backlash in the gears, the thing is suspect.
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As others have said, 70psi isn't enough to support combustion. It is possible that your garage tested the saw with a tester for cars allowing the engine to be continuously cranked. You need something like a gunson hi gauge with the very soft tip mounted Schrader valve. It may be worth removing the muffler for a look at the piston and the carb may be a possible cause but difficult to tell if the whole machine has been stripped and rebuilt for one reason or another.
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Have you checked the compression or viewed the piston through the exhaust port? Sounds like low compression to me. Most stone cutters are generally abused and stone dust isn't forgiving in bearings or the bore!
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They are available online if you search, some suppliers do have them, L&S engineering being one.
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The bore is the most likely area that would suffer if the oil was not doing what it should. Saying that, Homelite kit is cheap homeowner stuff now so wouldn't worry too much about it. Use it until it blows!
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I would understand if the kit was out of stock but being told it was in stock (a possible sales ploy to stop you going elsewhere) they have dropped a bollock underestimating the lead times on the parts. I would point out what you were told, what your reasonable expectation was, what it has ended up being and ask them how they are going to appease this issue. If you are a long standing customer etc then use this as leverage. I don't like sales crap and can sniff it out after a 13 year stint in that profession. Nothing beats good communication and a realistic approach!
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3/4 on low is no good, 1 to 1+1/4 is more typical and 3/4 will give starting issues and bogging on pulling the throttle!
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Plug failure is rare and rarer on the 14mm ones. Dropping them is one reason for failure. I use NGK and have done since my biking days and never had a bad one although I do get them from an approved dealer rather than....elsewhere!!!
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Got an old cordless Erbauer drill and it has been pretty good. Also looked at an Einhell hedge trimmer as it had locked up and it was pretty poor!
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It has what I call the Husqvarna large mount. It will share the same bar and chain with saws such as the Husqvarna 365, 365, 372, 390, 395etc I had one of these saws once, a decent pro saw with a lot of go!
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Spares wise, Stihl are by the far the easiest saws to get spares for, Husqvarna are OK but generally take longer and Makita are about the same. These are my own opinions and other opinions may differ. Skylands on here do Husky and Echo spares with L&S engineering doing Stihl, Makita and Husqvarna. If I were to order an OEM clutch for a mainstream saw, Stihl would be here in two days, Husqvarna in a week and Makita 1.5 weeks!
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Par for the course me old mucker!
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Was sad about that as he had flown some hours and had a bit more sense than some. From memory the chopper had missed a service and a gearbox failed, not good in a chopper!
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I would like to see it pull over the old McCulloch
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Get them in deep so they don't dry out. I didn't and not many are still flowering
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The Stihl 181 is an OK saw for a bit of logging. It won't set the world alight but it will do the job OK. Spares also won't be an issue as Stihl have a good supply chain and there will be many of these saws being used for Domestic and light Professional use.
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Hope this cast don't end up the same way as the last, one died in a helicopter crash (mechanical failure), One cancer and another fatal car crash etc
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Or is it just Arbtalk users
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These coil flywheel changes are a pain. It is usual to have the magnets meeting the coil at pretty much TDC but had a Stihl blower once where it was around 180 degrees out and with the wrong coil, you go some good backfires! Get the incorrect combination and the engine just won't work as it should, may cause possible engine damage or simply won't start. I set the ignition timing manually on my 066 once, got it completely wrong and by the noise the engine made when I started it, swear it would have grenaded if I gave it any revs
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Nothing to be scared of really, you just turn it in very small increments, capo on the first fret, push on the last and tap both the E strings to ensure there is a bit of relief. If you get a bit of fret buzz, especially near the machine heads, you can often get rid of it with a bit of a tweak. Just don't go stupid and most adjustments are usually under 1/8th of a turn plus on my Artcore, clockwise tightens the truss and on the Ibanez S970, it is the opposite but it is obvious if you take it very easy. The good thing about Ibanez is they have a quick access hatch on the adjuster, a flap that is pushed to one side, a very nice touch. You need to usually tweak them if you change string gauge anyway.
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Damn, I thought you were looking for an accountant!
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Well that didn't last, now got a fret rocker, fret beam and crowning file as the Artcore had a buzzy B string on frets 3 + 4. Set to the Ibanez Artcore 73 and ....well....interesting, super low action and by that, I view around 1.5mm on the 12th fret as being relatively good but am now at circa 1mm on top and low E string now, a real big difference and playing is a joy. I quite like working on guitars, no wood chip and crap to deal with.
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That's because 5 years on the latest saws is about it. Older saws like this, the MS460 etc will keep bopping well after the lights have gone down on your MS500/MS462/572XPs etc.
