spudulike

And it is spelt carburettor!

Think ADW is correct and for the record, the impulse line fits between a union on the manifold clamp and connects to the plastic surround the carb screws in to and is cock all to do with the fuel line. Normal errors are metering arm spring fitted incorrectly and gaskets fitted in the incorrect order. You can pressure check the carb to check the metering arm operation but suspect you don't have a pop off gauge or mityvac type pump.

Depends what "Long Reach" actually means but am guessing a Kombi type system. Most of my local contractors use KM56s as bring cheap and relatively reliable. Most have 2 or 3 which always means they are covered on breakdowns if they happen.

I have recently found some stuff called Milliput, it is totally weird in that it is like a two part epoxy but it can be smoothed with water. Looking at your crack....so to speak I would degrease both sides of the crack (just remove the oil cap to access the inside), and then push the filler from the inside and outside leaving a thicker coating on the inside. The oil tank gets a bit of heat but not much pressure so either Milliput or JB should be fine. Welding - likely to make it look pretty nasty and be a right old ball ache I think. I would take the easier option first - at least it is the top of the tank!

Sounds like another one with the impulse line come off, that always causes a bad idle! If that is OK then it is as ADW says - poor compression - the AT doesn't accommodate engine wear as well as a tech with a screwdriver! Oh - also check the muffler spark arrestor...unlikely but possible.

Yup but am having a clearout and having three guitars to leave out and enjoy rather than locking them in a hard case and never using them. It was doing chainsaw maintenance and porting that stopped me playing so am enjoying picking up a guitar and playing again....not sure those around me agree

Would a Goat come under the banner of a cordless mower My dad was once thinking of getting one in the 70s, must have been ahead of his time

I hate it when customers send a saw in for porting and find the saw hasn't been serviced in years and is pretty knackered! I also hate it when a customer just sends kit in without asking first, in the middle of the summer and then proceeds to bugger off on holiday not thinking that I may also be away leaving me to make lots of calls to sort it with long suffering neighbours......grrrrrrr!

Pretty hit and miss on AM parts. I have lobbed some straight in the bin before now. The side cover for a MS200T is noticeably different in its operation, harder to click on and less well built but does work. The carbs tend to be a bit iffy and have swapped them out in the past although one or two have been OK, they tend to have unstable idles and don't hold tune well. Some parts are good and some depends on the manufacturer.

Well....he never went....fake news....Trump was right

It appears to be fake news from what I can see!

Never taken frets down, a bit specialist for me but the rest has definitely made my guitars a fair bit better to play. Got a hollow body Ibanez on its way, another to play around with!

Anyone else tweak their guitars a bit? I have found that a bit of work on the nut, bridge and truss rod can transform a guitar in terms of playability. Many guitars seem to come from the factory with nuts that are far too high, the neck a bit too concave and the bridge to high. Never easy for a manufacturer to know what strings a guitar may end up on a guitar but usually sort the nut, lower the bridge and then tweak the truss to get the guitar in to shape. The Yamaha APX600 acoustic was good but is now sooooooo much better for a bit of work on it.

Looks like the OP has buggered off as we have had no further comments back!!! Agree in smoothness but some like to standardise on chain if making their own loops.

I would have thought converting the 261 to 3/8"th would have been a more logical solution. I always thought the advantages of 0.325 ran out at around 60cc! The 261 would just need a new rim and bar if this was done.

Don't tell me.....he is a Stihl dealer!

There's a question, if the saw is running a bit of an air leak or a bit lean on the carb setting, it may save it. At 33:1, it is pretty heavy on oil and it may form too much carbon or foul the plug when cold.

Yup, I can concurr that they are difficult to do this test!

Aw crap, here we go again, yes, if you use loads of oil in your petrol, the saw will overheat and seize, bet that has happened loads of times? not!

Someone I know paid £400 for on in similar condition!

Yup, apparently work is good for your health so continuing to work to 72 years is great......and even greater for the Government, all those NI payments paid, never to be taken as a pension!

Almost impossible to answer not knowing the model type as AT machines are completely different from older conventional ones. Starting from hot issues can be caused by low compression through piston wear or having nipped up.

And that is why I said a number of posts ago about using one of these little saws. I know many of my customers reflect these same views especially after a few tweaks!

You often let some big backfires or kick back when the key has sheared but does depend on where the timing has ended up. If you have spark, the compression needs to be over 150 psi then a carb issue is the most likely issue. General carb faults are gauze strainer blocked, perforated pump diaphragm, hardened metering diaphragm, stuck metering arm, check the needle will hold pressure to at least 10psi before popping off, possibly the check valve has stuck open and lastly, make sure the choke is operating as it should. It could be the engine is flooded so pull the plug, turn the unit iodide down and pull it over hard a number of times. If petrol comes out of the plug hole. Let it dry for an hour, heat the plug with a plumbers torch and put it back in quick then pull the engine over hard holding the throttle open. If it still doesn't fire then try a bit of choke. Back to the carb, make sure all gaskets and diaphragms are assembled in the correct order as it makes a huge difference. The pump membrane diaphragm should be closest to the carb body, the metering diaphragm should have a spacer gasket between it and the carb body!

Have you checked the spark as if you have compression and fuel, it is the other main constituent to a running engine.