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About Rob_the_Sparky

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  1. Oil shouldn't do any harm as long as it is a tin wipe over but might smoke a bit on start-up but not sure that is an issue. On the inside it will burn off very quickly. Not convinced WD-40 will do any good though. It evaporates quite rapidly so will leave next to nothing on the surface. I see people use WD-40 for lots of stuff where it will have questionable benefits but it smells nice, cleans quite well and will not do any harm.
  2. 240*13=3120W. However, mains can be nearer 220V so 220*13=2860W. I.e. 3kW or thereabouts is max for a domestic plug.
  3. If it is CO2 we are worried about then the green move should promote logs, if it is particulates that is your bug bear then maybe not so much. I suspect it is TBC what will happen though.
  4. That is more or less what I do. In MUCH smaller quantities though. I'm just doing it for home use on a single small burner but I have an arrangement with one of the local tree surgeons/landscape gardener that if he is driving by the door he unloads at mine for a bottle of wine (or a few bottles if the load is larger). He does logs himself but he off loads what he doesn't want as they get more than they can use themselves.
  5. If they were being thrown away by the builders anyway then I don't see how you are making it any worse.
  6. Lots of processor unfriendly ash sounds great for us non-pros with a chainsaw and axe. Hope it doesn't all just go to biomass, due to volume though I bet it does.
  7. If it is significant, should it not show up in the manufacturer's efficiency values?
  8. Very pretty. For general public use (like me!) do you think it is worth adding some links on processing/seasoning your own timber? Maybe also a link to the book "Norwegian Wood" ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/Norwegian-Wood-Non-fiction-Book-Year/dp/0857052551 ). I found this to be a very good book to read on the subject (and quite a good read anyway)
  9. It might be worth asking for arb waste rather than cord wood. I process wood for my own fire with chainsaw and axe, I'd estimate about 5 cube of 9" stacked logs last year. OK you can't be fussy about the type of wood you get but it is much cheaper than cord wood. I contacted local tree surgeons and yes some have their own log businesses so don't get any left overs but not all do. Now on my second year of sourcing logs like this and I get more than I need from a single local chap who does a mixture of landscaping and tree surgery. He drops it off if he is passing on the way home from a job. As a result I get a lot of softwood from back gardens and maybe 1 in 5 loads of something better like Cherry or Eucalyptus. For the price I can not argue though.
  10. Oops, typo - meant to say the open fires should not be lumped together with wood burners.
  11. I've not tried it, but if dry I see no reason the willow won't burn. The arb waste I burn at the moment is mostly softwood that the web would tell you is not good firewood but I have no problem at all burning it.
  12. Thought about keeping the bigger sticks as firewood? 40mm is on the small side but oak and beech are nice on the fire.
  13. They certainly should be lumping burners together with open fires as they are currently due to the huge difference in efficiency. Whether they should promote them though I'm not sure. Wood burners require a little skill to operate, gas and electric require little or no skill. If you push them out on the general public you will also not be able to supply enough wood and eventually will have to worry about particulate emissions (at least in large towns/cities).
  14. There are people out there looking for wood to burn domestically, just going to be tricky to find them. The Leylandi is not the best but free is free and you can still heat the house using it. The Laurel is very nice to burn. I burn arb waste provided by a local tree surgeon/landscape gardener and it a right mixture but mostly softwoods. He can drop off more than I can burn (in exchange for a few bottle of wine) so I'm not in need of more but worth asking around locally. Maybe put something in the local classifieds or similar?
  15. To quote from : http://www.moisturemetersdelmhorst.com/news/blog/4/How-Pin-Meters-Measure-Moisture.html "The most important feature of resistance type meters with insulated pins is that they measure only at the depth pins have been driven and in a line between the non-insulated portion of the pins."


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