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About Rob_the_Sparky

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  1. If it is offcuts of interior wood then is it actually treated? It may not be. Pallets used to be a right mix but now you rarely find a chemical treated one, the are almost all heat treated now so fine to burn.
  2. I'd guess he wasn't using a tube though so gunk is in contact with the wheel.
  3. When you get more time, you can use 3" fence posts that are being thrown away to make good sized log racks, lots of supply out there. The 6' above the soil is generally in good condition and long enough to make a nice tall log rack. Pallet wood for the slats on the sides and back, material of your choice for the roof and costs are some wood preservative, screws nails and roofing (I have made a roof of pallet wood but think clear plastic is better). I don't have a lot of room so need to make the stacks taller and this worked out fine
  4. 1. Measure the dimensions 2. Ensure you use the right type of measurement for you: Loose, stacked or solid. There are standard values used to convert from one to the other (but afraid I can't remember them off hand)
  5. Look at the LONG thread on here about et and dry measurements. Dry is the water content as a % of the dry weight, Wet is % of the total weight. I.e. a 50% reading for wet = 100% reading for dry. It maybe this that is giving you the high numbers. Also in that thread there is input from those who have done the weigh wood, dry in a oven and re-weigh. They were saying that meters are not that accurate anyway and this is the only right way to get a measurement of any accuracy. Clearly though you have wet logs and the fire temps confirm this. Note: Looks like a helpful soul has pinned a message describing meter differences in more detail
  6. It is a trade off. If I were paying for dried logs I might go for hardwood. If I'm getting arb arisings then most tree surgeons will keep the hardwood for their own uses (selling for firewood for example) but the softwood is hard to get rid of. That means that those of us that are happy to put in the hours processing the softwood others don't want, pay very little for it. Regarding "bang for buck" you can't get much better. Last year I got two large trees dumped at mine for free that were being taken down opposite my house. Tree surgeon saved a couple of trips to base and I get free firewood (only cost is the electricity to run my saw). I generally do donate something for my wood but the cost is minimal compared to paying for processed logs. Rob P.S. I agree with reloading times, I try to find some hardwood if I need to keep the fire in but leaving the logs larger can also help increase the time between re-loads.
  7. The "we must have hardwood" argument is a good one for us who are happy to split, dry and burn softwood but not so good for those who cut trees. It means the price of softwood is low and in some cases just dumped for free. Yes softwood takes more space and involves more splitting but it also dries faster and generates more or less the same amount of heat weight for weight (dry weight).
  8. Sorry, a bit late with this reply, but what you are describing is the difference between bias and noise. Noise is the scatter and if you average out noise then you get the correct answer. This is what gives you the variation measurement to measurement. Bias gives you an error in the reading no matter how much averaging you do, it is an offset from the genuine value you are trying to measure. The noise is most simply described using standard deviation but as complicated as that is, it is still a simplification. It is a case of the more you know the more complex it becomes I'm afraid and probably not something you want to go to deeply into. The bias is best calculated by taking the mean of a lot of readings. Note: all of the above applies when trying to measure something constant. With wood the material is not constant from tree to tree and species to species. I'd be surprised if you get any sort of bias or noise data from a moisture meter manufacturer. As far as I can tell the meter is set-up to measure high resistances then uses a look-up table (or a simple equation) to convert that resistance reading into a moisture reading. They are not directly measuring moisture, the reading is an estimate of moisture based on the look-up table. Poor match between the look-up table and wood being measure = poor accuracy (bias). I don't know how much variation there is in moisture for a given resistance but I suspect it is quite a lot given all the variations in the wood. Those who have done a load of oven drying would know though.
  9. Software in the meter could well limit the reading to 40%. I.e. it may well read 40% even if you put a dead short (like a piece of wire) across the terminals. Still how to tell if it is dry or wet basis?
  10. Why would the hearth hit 100C? That is a hell of a lot so very unlikely, otherwise you would burn yourself if you touched the hearth and I have never heard of that happening. Mine is black granite and doesn't get much above room temp.
  11. There is no sign of controlled air entry at the front (no sealed door), which suggests this is something more like a free standing open fire than a log burner. Difference being efficiency of ~30% for an open fire and 75+ for a log/multifuel burner.
  12. Hmmm, I brought my dehumidifer into the house as an experiment (normally lives in the garage to keep the cars dry - yes I know pampered cars). It removed very little water so I put it back. That was after friends of ours had issues with damp as like you found the dehumidifer removed a LOT of water. If you are removing that much water I'd be concerned about where it is all coming from...
  13. Sounds a bit extreme to me, a day or so indoors is only going going to dry the very outer surface. If the bulk of the log is wet then it will still be wet after a day or two indoors. Just bring them in the night before should be enough
  14. The Norwegian Wood book tells you to light a wood burner by putting the big logs at the bottom, the opposite of what you might have thought would be right from lighting campfires. In effect you set a fire in between/on top of a couple of logs, letting the wood gas come up and burn. However, I find it works best for lighting if I use a small (~1" diameter) stick to lift the bigger logs off the ash. Flame gets underneath the logs lighting the whole surface of them faster than if they are just placed on the ash. (Not when re-loading, only when lighting)
  15. Note: You can make a log store for next to nothing with a few pallets, nails, hammer and a sheet of some sort for the roof. Don't get put off by the cost of them.


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