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Rob_the_Sparky

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  1. We (groups of parents) shovel it by hand every month or so at school and sometimes it is dry and mouldy. Never had a problem so I guess it depends if you are already susceptible and how much you breath in. I always stand back from the dust when this happens but you can't avoid breathing some of it.
  2. I don't want to consider the cost of ripping up all our floors Good points wrt hot water and bacteria, not ones I was aware of. Does that mean some sort of supplementary system is a necessity? The other problems with heat pumps is they work to generate a temperature differential. If the medium you are using to exchange to gets colder then the max temperature generated also drops. A particular issue with air based heat exchangers, as the air temperature drops then the max temp they can generate also drops. I.e. just when you need more heating power, the amount available reduces. I'm interested to see how all this pans out. OK for new builds although builders are prone to doing the minimum they have to and fitting an air based exchanger is MUCH easier then a ground (or water - I.e. lake/pond) based system. For retro-fit systems what is not always considered is whether the existing mains infrastructure can actually support them (plus the power for the electric car). My brother in-law gave up on his heat exchanger plans after he found out the cost of installing a second mains feed to the house to power it (he does live out in the sticks so it would had to have come a long way).
  3. If all central heating and all cars are to move to electricity then there will have to be BIG infrastructure changes. We have yet to be able to phase out gas power stations with renewables, let alone provide for the much increased demand that will occur if this is to become reality. Big infrastructure investment has to be paid for suggesting higher prices so it is certainly possible there will be more demand for logs. However, the large volume of logs needed to heat a house and the faff (relative to gas or electricity) or reloading boilers I suspect will limit the demand. Another thought is that if houses have to use heat pumps and they just aren't that good at producing high temps to heat the house then wood burners might be an option people turn to to supliment them. We do this with gas at the moment, I could just use gas but the direct heat of the wood burner is nice and means I burn less gas than I otherwise would (and I like hitting things with an axe )
  4. Yeah, not convinced it will increase demand, particularly as there are people out there quite successfully presenting domestic solid fuel fires as dirty polluting things. What might increase demand is more WFH though, those of us with stoves have to be here to feed them so when at home I burn more than I do when I'm in the office. Having said that I DIY my wood from arisings so I'm not going to change the demand for logs
  5. Republic of Ireland to ban the sale of polluting solid fuels - BBC News Ireland are not banning the burning of wood yet they show an image of a wood burner burning logs and you have to read to the end of the article to find that out. Bias anyone, or just poorly informed reporting?
  6. Does this scheme prevent the delivery of arb waste or is it only relevant if the wood is in ready to burn sized chunks? I'm interested as most of the wood I burn is delivered this way but supply seems a bit thin this year.
  7. Considered adding yourself to the tip site list linked to this site? You might also want to add what you want the wood for, I'm guessing firewood in which case do some homework as softwood burns well (when dry) and is much easier to get hold of. The more flexible you are the easier you make it for the suppliers.
  8. Yeah, you may get waste wood but don't expect "firewood". Firewood is really the end product so cut to length, split and dried so has time and money invested in it. What you may be able to get will be freshly felled wood, if the company in question has no use for it or you are willing to pay enough to make it worth their while. Will depend on the company. I contacted several local companies directly and many have a use for the wood already. The tip site is a resource for the companies and may get you wood delivered. Will depend on your access and how well you enter your details and how far you are from their job site/route home. The idea is to make it easy for people so the better the information given the more likely you are to get wood.
  9. Other solutions include guttering or large overhangs but yes that looks very neat. My logs are generally hanging out the front of the log store so no chance of fitting doors
  10. I can only guess this idea of resin build-up either comes from people letting it smolder overnight or from burning on open fires.
  11. If it is offcuts of interior wood then is it actually treated? It may not be. Pallets used to be a right mix but now you rarely find a chemical treated one, the are almost all heat treated now so fine to burn.
  12. I'd guess he wasn't using a tube though so gunk is in contact with the wheel.
  13. When you get more time, you can use 3" fence posts that are being thrown away to make good sized log racks, lots of supply out there. The 6' above the soil is generally in good condition and long enough to make a nice tall log rack. Pallet wood for the slats on the sides and back, material of your choice for the roof and costs are some wood preservative, screws nails and roofing (I have made a roof of pallet wood but think clear plastic is better). I don't have a lot of room so need to make the stacks taller and this worked out fine
  14. 1. Measure the dimensions 2. Ensure you use the right type of measurement for you: Loose, stacked or solid. There are standard values used to convert from one to the other (but afraid I can't remember them off hand)
  15. Look at the LONG thread on here about et and dry measurements. Dry is the water content as a % of the dry weight, Wet is % of the total weight. I.e. a 50% reading for wet = 100% reading for dry. It maybe this that is giving you the high numbers. Also in that thread there is input from those who have done the weigh wood, dry in a oven and re-weigh. They were saying that meters are not that accurate anyway and this is the only right way to get a measurement of any accuracy. Clearly though you have wet logs and the fire temps confirm this. Note: Looks like a helpful soul has pinned a message describing meter differences in more detail

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