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Rob_the_Sparky

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Everything posted by Rob_the_Sparky

  1. Disposing of the wood will not be hard if the tree surgeon does not want it. Plenty of people out there that will take it for processing at home if it is cut into manageable pieces.
  2. Also do not be fussy with what you want, all dry wood is good wood to burn in a wood burner. I got my supply by contacting local tree surgeons.
  3. I think if you want regular donations then it is best to contact your local tree surgeons. Took a few attempts but I have a pretty regular supply now for the cost of a few bottles of wine.
  4. As described above there is a significant difference between ton bags and a cube, which is 1m3 (also a significant difference between solid, stacked and loose cube but there is plenty on this forum about it if you are interested.).
  5. Good luck with the grenade. I only use a wedge on wood that is tough to split as it is not worth the effort if an axe will go through it. I found the wood grenade to be a very good nail. I t would split the wood but then would have a struggle getting it out of the chunk of wood it was buried in. It never split anything 4 ways either. Used to use it very occasionally when I needed s second wedge but gave that up years ago. Still as above, we all learn by splitting. I will add a voice wrt softwood. As long as the fire is hot (I.e. wood is dry and fire not slumbered) it will burn just fine and leave nothing in the chimney. It also dries quite quickly and not all softwoods are even too light. Dry wood has within a small margin the same energy per unit weight once dry, hence it is density that you want if you want a long burn (and physically large pieces of wood). The Lars Mytling book on Norwegian wood (my spelling might be a bit off) is a good read and very informative.
  6. Not sure you really need a large collection. I have a crap Maul (from screwfix), an x27 and a smaller axe acquired from a friend. I only use the x27. When that does not cope then I have a couple of wedges and a sledge but using them is slow and hard work so if the chainsaw is to hand that gets used in preference. wrt the tip site link, that is for companies outside their normal working area. If you want a more regular supply then you really want to make contact with local companies and come to some mutually agreeable arrangement.
  7. I suspect it also depends on the length of your axe/maul (I use an x27). I split on a block about 12" high. I tried with it higher (put a second block on top) and it did not work so well for me. I'd guess the 1 foot less swing has a bigger effect than the angles but technique can also adjust the angle of the axe as you swing. I'd say try different block heights and see what you prefer, plenty of wood on the pile to make blocks out of Rob FYI I do put a second block on top when using the chainsaw as I found that height more comfortable.
  8. Sounds like you are talking about something like coppicing: Coppicing - Wikipedia EN.WIKIPEDIA.ORG so as per Dan's response it really depends on the tree.
  9. Know nothing about them but curious how a single phase log splitter with wheels and a handle is tractor mounted.
  10. I'd look in the tip sites area of this web site (Even linked from your own post as Steve is clever like that, it auto-replaces "tip site" with a link!)
  11. Best also to offer a donation if you want stuff. You may get it offered for free but better not to ask for it to be free...
  12. I do not think you need to move the grate to replace the thermal bricks. I take out the side "bricks" every time I brush the chimney. You lift the baffle plate, remove the side panels with the baffle plate lifted and then take out the baffle plate. I'd like to bet the rear fire brick can then also be removed but would have to fiddle to find out for sure.
  13. I have a multi-fuel but as I now dry my own logs (unwanted offcuts are delivered for a small donation from a local tree surgeon/landscaper) I never have burnt anything other than wood on it. No adjustments required other than the air settings to burn the different fuels on mine but I guess you should check when buying. If you are up for drying your own you clearly need to by an axe, saw and have somewhere to store the logs but once set-up the drying process is free and wood of the back of a truck can be very very cheap as it is a waste product if they are not burning or selling logs themselves. Another plus side is the virtually zero CO2 like this as there is minimal transport miles and nothing burnt to dry them. Due to the above I would get a pure wood burner if I was buying another, nothing wrong with my multi-fuel but what is the point if I'm only burning logs? Rob
  14. I was wondering if all you need to do it put in a vent top and bottom of this enclosed box containing the flue and the heat will make its own way out into the room.
  15. I guess it depends on the stove but had mine (a Clearview) for 5+ years no polish and no rust.
  16. Petrols have a throttle to control the air coming into the engine and the ECU adds the amount of fuel based on that air flow to achieve the right mixture and adjust the spark timing to suit. Diesels do not control the incoming air, there is no throttle plate. They do not control the spark as again there isn't one. While I bet the output of a diesel is quite closely related to the fuel energy but petrol is more complex so you may or may not get the reaction expected depending how well it adjusts to the different fuel.
  17. I wonder if the plan is to extend the war, the longer the wat the more time for sanctions to bite and hte more cash he has to spend on munitions etc. Then hope that the Russian population get so fed up with the hardship that they have to put up with as a result that they get rid of him. Trouble is that if he sees that coming, that is when he might do something stupid.
  18. but it is the heat that softens the lignin from what I understand not just the pressure. That is why this sort of equipment is not really viable unless you have a LOT of dust and, I suspect, are going to sell it.
  19. If you are trying to form briquets you need a binder of some sort. Plenty out there on the web about it, once you wade through all the wet paper solutions. You can do it with wood but it takes a lot of heat to do it, which is what the pellet machines do. Rather than experimenting randomly I'd do some focussed Googling/reading.
  20. Does not a simple weir automatically regulate the water you take? If the main stream level drops below the height of your weir then you stop taking water. Sounds simple to me so I'm sure the regulations will make it much more complex
  21. For home users who generate just a small amount of saw dust (like me) I have thought about this and looked into it. Pellets from a machine are financially out of the question. I really can't see the mess of mixing with shredded paper in water, then compressing and drying is going to be worth the hassle. I tried mixing with candle wax last year and it worked but was a bit messy (quite possibly would be easier with a bit of practice and might do it again). I mostly just shovel it into a large flexi bucket and put handfuls on the fire to aid lighting. No messing about with it, just use it as is (once it has dried a bit). Putting it in some kind of box you can put on the fire is clearly also an option (easier to store and cleaner) but TBH as I can just use it as is I don't see the point in messing around trying to turn it into some other product.
  22. If you are short on cash but have a saw and axe then, as you are I think, getting arisings and processing them ASAP so they can dry ready for next winter. Just don't underestimate how many you need for a season, it will be more than you think. Oh and don't go spending cash on log racks, they can be made for the cost of some nails/screws (as preferred) from pallets (and in my case old fence posts). You just need some sort of roof, again can be made from free pallet wood but I prefer the clear plastic I have on my latest one.
  23. Sorry wasn't aimed at you. I remember back in the day occasionally having ice on the inside of the single glazed windows and it being cold in most of the house but the reason was back in the day we had naff all insulation, not that we were putting less heat into the house.

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