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Rob_the_Sparky

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Everything posted by Rob_the_Sparky

  1. Rob_the_Sparky
    Sounds like you are talking about something like coppicing: Coppicing - Wikipedia EN.WIKIPEDIA.ORG so as per Dan's response it really depends on the tree.
  2. Rob_the_Sparky
    Know nothing about them but curious how a single phase log splitter with wheels and a handle is tractor mounted.
  3. Rob_the_Sparky
    I'd look in the tip sites area of this web site (Even linked from your own post as Steve is clever like that, it auto-replaces "tip site" with a link!)
  4. Rob_the_Sparky
    Best also to offer a donation if you want stuff. You may get it offered for free but better not to ask for it to be free...
  5. Rob_the_Sparky
    I do not think you need to move the grate to replace the thermal bricks. I take out the side "bricks" every time I brush the chimney. You lift the baffle plate, remove the side panels with the baffle plate lifted and then take out the baffle plate. I'd like to bet the rear fire brick can then also be removed but would have to fiddle to find out for sure.
  6. Rob_the_Sparky
    I have a multi-fuel but as I now dry my own logs (unwanted offcuts are delivered for a small donation from a local tree surgeon/landscaper) I never have burnt anything other than wood on it. No adjustments required other than the air settings to burn the different fuels on mine but I guess you should check when buying. If you are up for drying your own you clearly need to by an axe, saw and have somewhere to store the logs but once set-up the drying process is free and wood of the back of a truck can be very very cheap as it is a waste product if they are not burning or selling logs themselves. Another plus side is the virtually zero CO2 like this as there is minimal transport miles and nothing burnt to dry them. Due to the above I would get a pure wood burner if I was buying another, nothing wrong with my multi-fuel but what is the point if I'm only burning logs? Rob
  7. Rob_the_Sparky
    I was wondering if all you need to do it put in a vent top and bottom of this enclosed box containing the flue and the heat will make its own way out into the room.
  8. Rob_the_Sparky
    I guess it depends on the stove but had mine (a Clearview) for 5+ years no polish and no rust.
  9. Rob_the_Sparky
    Petrols have a throttle to control the air coming into the engine and the ECU adds the amount of fuel based on that air flow to achieve the right mixture and adjust the spark timing to suit. Diesels do not control the incoming air, there is no throttle plate. They do not control the spark as again there isn't one. While I bet the output of a diesel is quite closely related to the fuel energy but petrol is more complex so you may or may not get the reaction expected depending how well it adjusts to the different fuel.
  10. Rob_the_Sparky
    I wonder if the plan is to extend the war, the longer the wat the more time for sanctions to bite and hte more cash he has to spend on munitions etc. Then hope that the Russian population get so fed up with the hardship that they have to put up with as a result that they get rid of him. Trouble is that if he sees that coming, that is when he might do something stupid.
  11. Rob_the_Sparky
    but it is the heat that softens the lignin from what I understand not just the pressure. That is why this sort of equipment is not really viable unless you have a LOT of dust and, I suspect, are going to sell it.
  12. Rob_the_Sparky
    If you are trying to form briquets you need a binder of some sort. Plenty out there on the web about it, once you wade through all the wet paper solutions. You can do it with wood but it takes a lot of heat to do it, which is what the pellet machines do. Rather than experimenting randomly I'd do some focussed Googling/reading.
  13. Rob_the_Sparky
    Does not a simple weir automatically regulate the water you take? If the main stream level drops below the height of your weir then you stop taking water. Sounds simple to me so I'm sure the regulations will make it much more complex
  14. Rob_the_Sparky
    For home users who generate just a small amount of saw dust (like me) I have thought about this and looked into it. Pellets from a machine are financially out of the question. I really can't see the mess of mixing with shredded paper in water, then compressing and drying is going to be worth the hassle. I tried mixing with candle wax last year and it worked but was a bit messy (quite possibly would be easier with a bit of practice and might do it again). I mostly just shovel it into a large flexi bucket and put handfuls on the fire to aid lighting. No messing about with it, just use it as is (once it has dried a bit). Putting it in some kind of box you can put on the fire is clearly also an option (easier to store and cleaner) but TBH as I can just use it as is I don't see the point in messing around trying to turn it into some other product.
  15. Rob_the_Sparky
    If you are short on cash but have a saw and axe then, as you are I think, getting arisings and processing them ASAP so they can dry ready for next winter. Just don't underestimate how many you need for a season, it will be more than you think. Oh and don't go spending cash on log racks, they can be made for the cost of some nails/screws (as preferred) from pallets (and in my case old fence posts). You just need some sort of roof, again can be made from free pallet wood but I prefer the clear plastic I have on my latest one.
  16. Rob_the_Sparky
    Sorry wasn't aimed at you. I remember back in the day occasionally having ice on the inside of the single glazed windows and it being cold in most of the house but the reason was back in the day we had naff all insulation, not that we were putting less heat into the house.
  17. Rob_the_Sparky
    and naff all insulation
  18. Rob_the_Sparky
    You are lucky. I do get some good dense wood in the mix but rarely that much. He did contact me a few weeks ago asking if I wanted some oak, told him that was a silly question! Not whole trees worth though.
  19. Rob_the_Sparky
    FYI 0C to +70C is the standard temperature range for commercial electronics, would not be surprised if cables follow this but do not know for sure. These are board level temperatures, not ambient temperatures, by the way so the TV will be rated at a lower temperature than this, potentially quite a lot lower. If you are worried about flue temps, then maybe you put the flue out through the wall and up the outside and build a fake chimney inside with all the shelving space you could want behind the TV. Personally I'd be cautious about putting electronics above wood burner though regardless of the flue but you might be OK, I do not know for sure. I have never put a thermometer on the wall above my wood burner to know what sort of temps I get for sure.
  20. Rob_the_Sparky
    Yeah, if selling logs then hardwood is what most people are going to ask for. Hence being picky about only hardwood means you are unlikely to get much as hardwood is much less likely to be dumped. Also the tip site is set-up for traders working outside their areas so it is also worth contacting local traders direct to see what is available (either to buy as logs or as waste product for you to process into logs)
  21. Rob_the_Sparky
    I got my supplies by contacting several local tree surgeons. It took a little while and a false start but for the last few years have got my supply from a local company that drops waste wood at mine if he is passing my house on the way back. I.e. he drops when it is convenient to him and text me before hand just to check. (I only say no if I'm already over flowing...)
  22. Rob_the_Sparky
    I'd contact your local tree surgeons as a starting point (unless you need it ASAP or must have straight lengths) as some companies generate wood that they have no use for "arb arisings". It requires you to be flexible with what type of wood and what shapes you take (basically you get what they have) but it is cheaper than trying to get hold of what you might call processor grade wood, that is nice straight lengths of a certain diameter. The down side will be that it is generally available when it is cut so you are less likely to be able to place a largish order as above but I certainly get that sort of quantity of wood over the period of a year from a single small local company and I'm certainly not the only place he drops logs to.
  23. Rob_the_Sparky
    Well hardwood can be turned into good product. Odd bits/softwood is harder to process/not as attractive to buyers so is quite possibly available. Requests for hardwood for beer don't go down so well but willingness to take anything they have on the back of the truck that will burn and you might get some takers. If you want the best wood then expect to pay. If the trader can make more money by processing it and selling it then they will. Why would they give it away if there is income to be made? Unseasoned but processed logs can be had but there is not much interest as the cost is not hugely less than the seasoned logs as you are paying the trader to process the wood into logs. Generally the wood that will be available at cut price will be the stuff that happens to be on the back of the lorry at the time they are passing your house and they have not desire to drag back to base.
  24. Rob_the_Sparky
    Yes it can be done. I quite liked the pear wood I got and yes I seasoned it in a year over a decent summer no problems. (South facing log rack, good air flow and protected from the rain)
  25. Rob_the_Sparky
    Try the tip site and/or directly contacting traders in your area. If you are not fussy and the traders get a benefit then you can get wood but it has to benefit all so be reasonable. I.e. do not be picky and do not expect it for free/beers. Not that this can not happen, just do not expect it.

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