Rob_the_Sparky

Petrols have a throttle to control the air coming into the engine and the ECU adds the amount of fuel based on that air flow to achieve the right mixture and adjust the spark timing to suit. Diesels do not control the incoming air, there is no throttle plate. They do not control the spark as again there isn't one. While I bet the output of a diesel is quite closely related to the fuel energy but petrol is more complex so you may or may not get the reaction expected depending how well it adjusts to the different fuel.

I wonder if the plan is to extend the war, the longer the wat the more time for sanctions to bite and hte more cash he has to spend on munitions etc. Then hope that the Russian population get so fed up with the hardship that they have to put up with as a result that they get rid of him. Trouble is that if he sees that coming, that is when he might do something stupid.

but it is the heat that softens the lignin from what I understand not just the pressure. That is why this sort of equipment is not really viable unless you have a LOT of dust and, I suspect, are going to sell it.

If you are trying to form briquets you need a binder of some sort. Plenty out there on the web about it, once you wade through all the wet paper solutions. You can do it with wood but it takes a lot of heat to do it, which is what the pellet machines do. Rather than experimenting randomly I'd do some focussed Googling/reading.

Does not a simple weir automatically regulate the water you take? If the main stream level drops below the height of your weir then you stop taking water. Sounds simple to me so I'm sure the regulations will make it much more complex

For home users who generate just a small amount of saw dust (like me) I have thought about this and looked into it. Pellets from a machine are financially out of the question. I really can't see the mess of mixing with shredded paper in water, then compressing and drying is going to be worth the hassle. I tried mixing with candle wax last year and it worked but was a bit messy (quite possibly would be easier with a bit of practice and might do it again). I mostly just shovel it into a large flexi bucket and put handfuls on the fire to aid lighting. No messing about with it, just use it as is (once it has dried a bit). Putting it in some kind of box you can put on the fire is clearly also an option (easier to store and cleaner) but TBH as I can just use it as is I don't see the point in messing around trying to turn it into some other product.

If you are short on cash but have a saw and axe then, as you are I think, getting arisings and processing them ASAP so they can dry ready for next winter. Just don't underestimate how many you need for a season, it will be more than you think. Oh and don't go spending cash on log racks, they can be made for the cost of some nails/screws (as preferred) from pallets (and in my case old fence posts). You just need some sort of roof, again can be made from free pallet wood but I prefer the clear plastic I have on my latest one.

Sorry wasn't aimed at you. I remember back in the day occasionally having ice on the inside of the single glazed windows and it being cold in most of the house but the reason was back in the day we had naff all insulation, not that we were putting less heat into the house.

and naff all insulation

You are lucky. I do get some good dense wood in the mix but rarely that much. He did contact me a few weeks ago asking if I wanted some oak, told him that was a silly question! Not whole trees worth though.

FYI 0C to +70C is the standard temperature range for commercial electronics, would not be surprised if cables follow this but do not know for sure. These are board level temperatures, not ambient temperatures, by the way so the TV will be rated at a lower temperature than this, potentially quite a lot lower. If you are worried about flue temps, then maybe you put the flue out through the wall and up the outside and build a fake chimney inside with all the shelving space you could want behind the TV. Personally I'd be cautious about putting electronics above wood burner though regardless of the flue but you might be OK, I do not know for sure. I have never put a thermometer on the wall above my wood burner to know what sort of temps I get for sure.

Yeah, if selling logs then hardwood is what most people are going to ask for. Hence being picky about only hardwood means you are unlikely to get much as hardwood is much less likely to be dumped. Also the tip site is set-up for traders working outside their areas so it is also worth contacting local traders direct to see what is available (either to buy as logs or as waste product for you to process into logs)

I got my supplies by contacting several local tree surgeons. It took a little while and a false start but for the last few years have got my supply from a local company that drops waste wood at mine if he is passing my house on the way back. I.e. he drops when it is convenient to him and text me before hand just to check. (I only say no if I'm already over flowing...)

I'd contact your local tree surgeons as a starting point (unless you need it ASAP or must have straight lengths) as some companies generate wood that they have no use for "arb arisings". It requires you to be flexible with what type of wood and what shapes you take (basically you get what they have) but it is cheaper than trying to get hold of what you might call processor grade wood, that is nice straight lengths of a certain diameter. The down side will be that it is generally available when it is cut so you are less likely to be able to place a largish order as above but I certainly get that sort of quantity of wood over the period of a year from a single small local company and I'm certainly not the only place he drops logs to.

Well hardwood can be turned into good product. Odd bits/softwood is harder to process/not as attractive to buyers so is quite possibly available. Requests for hardwood for beer don't go down so well but willingness to take anything they have on the back of the truck that will burn and you might get some takers. If you want the best wood then expect to pay. If the trader can make more money by processing it and selling it then they will. Why would they give it away if there is income to be made? Unseasoned but processed logs can be had but there is not much interest as the cost is not hugely less than the seasoned logs as you are paying the trader to process the wood into logs. Generally the wood that will be available at cut price will be the stuff that happens to be on the back of the lorry at the time they are passing your house and they have not desire to drag back to base.

Yes it can be done. I quite liked the pear wood I got and yes I seasoned it in a year over a decent summer no problems. (South facing log rack, good air flow and protected from the rain)

Try the tip site and/or directly contacting traders in your area. If you are not fussy and the traders get a benefit then you can get wood but it has to benefit all so be reasonable. I.e. do not be picky and do not expect it for free/beers. Not that this can not happen, just do not expect it.

Smaller logs will burn hotter/faster but certain types of wood will also burn faster. It will take "a while" to learn both the types of wood and your stove. You can also control the burn to an extent by limiting the air coming into the burner. If I leave my door open even a fraction (1 or 2mm) then it will burn very fast. I.e. you have a number of things to look at/consider. With lightweight softwood (low density) I now cut them into big chunks (1 at a time in the burner) and the burn is much easier to control and as a result they burn for longer. More dense woods don't burn so well in these big blocks and are better cut a bit smaller blocks and used 2 at a time. These are generalisations though and not a rule. I think it is a constant learning experience.

As per doobin - the small trolley jacks are something I would not buy unless I needed to transport it having used both types. The only down side with a full sized one is the weight and that is not a problem as long as it is on the floor (!). Do make sure though that the jack has the required height (lift) you need as well as the weight. Not a problem when lifting cars but if you are lifting stuff with high ground clearance you may need much greater lift and it is not to easy to put a trolley jack on a block of wood like a bottle jack. I got my latest one from Costco (a few years ago now) and it was <£70 that I thought was reasonable. I don't use it much though so although it certainly works well I do not know about durability.

You should try directly contacting your local companies. The tip site is aimed at people working outside their local area so you are not likely to get a regular supply. Rob

Why spread one on top of the other at all? Spread cream on one half, jam on the other and put them together...

Without a doubt it will be better, that Maul is poor so improving on it is not that hard! N.B. the head on the x25 and x27 are the same so it it horses for courses on which one you prefer.

Might be a good time for installers if the gas/elec prices continue to rise.

I got some rigger boots to work in (plus chainsaw trousers and gloves) and I never noticed doing it but I found a cut through the leather on the toe to the tow cap. Must have just touched at some point and it went straight through without me even noticing. I do not want to know what that would do to skin and I use a relatively weak mains electric saw. Use both hands on the saw and get some PPE. wrt sharpening, it takes a little while to get good at it but some simple hand tools and internet videos and advice and you will get there. I've messed up a chain on the way but I rescued it once I realised what I had done and still cheaper than buying new all the time. I give mine a sharpen when the cutting speed slows down, you can also look at the chip sizes (more dust and fewer chips = time to sharpen), as I have no fuel tank to fill! Big chunks will take longer to dry so now I agree with the above but once you have a longer term supply then larger chunks are good to keep the fire in for longer so you can play with log size once you get used to it. Drying times vary with a number of factors but small chunks for now seems sensible.

You can try the tip site but that is aimed more for contractors outside their normal area. Otherwise just contact your locals directly. If you are not fussy and there is enough space for their vehicles then you stand a better chance.