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  1. It would still be much cheaper than switching to Aspen. Unless you were going to anyway. But that's a different debate altogether.
  2. Surely you could still just buy super unleaded and use it with a good quality 2-stroke oil.
  3. G18 became the G21, so to answer your question precisely, yes it would be a "backward step" to go to a 2120. That having been said, the GR range are still streets ahead of most of what's available. I have a GR1600 which is 15yrs old and just turned 1000hrs. Apart from service items it's needed a steering rod and the gas damper which assists with tipping the grass box, that's it. And it still looks better than my previous Castlegarden ride on looked after a year. The main reason why it would be a backward step is that the G21 is just such a mighty machine. My local Kubota dealer told me that dealers and customers alike were well hacked off when they discontinued the G21 a year or two ago, and it really says something that after a couple of years they started to produce it again, that is a remarkably un-Japanese thing to do and they must have been under serious pressure to have to do it. I'll probably upgrade my old mower in the next couple of years and although I'd dearly like one of them, the GR has been so good that I don't think I could justify the expense of the G21, so I think that's the real dilemma. I think you'd need a G21 on demo for a day to evaluate properly to be honest.
  4. Yeah, I read a lot of stuff on them here. Strangely some people had a problem, some had none. I read a post by one guy who said that he took the spark arrestor out and it started to melt the handle, and the problem stopped when he put the spark arrestor back in, so it's hard to know exactly what's going on. What would be interesting, if it were available, would be to get a parts diagram and see if there is a superseded part number for the exhaust. That would possibly tell you if it had been changed or not.
  5. Just a quick update to hopefully add a bit more substance to the thread, I have an Echo 390 esx on order, should have it early next week. A local company who I get all my Kubota stuff off are an Echo dealer but not an official stockist and they are getting me one. So the first time I get a look at one will be when I open the box, against that, they are a good outfit and I know will keep me right if there's any issues. We've just started lambing so not sure how much it'll get to do for a few weeks but I'll keep the thread updated sometime in the future as to how it performs.
  6. Interesting article on the use of magnesium alloy, here. Anyone in to their racing engines will be well aware of the god-like status of Kevin Cameron. Just makes you wonder if paying extra for a saw with mag cases as opposed to GRP really is buying longevity after all? I'd certainly not be in a rush to be a magnesium piston pioneer anyway.
  7. There you go, hadn't considered that. So what about the different gauges on the drive sprocket, can a 3/8 sprocket run different gauges of 3/8 chain or have I missed something there too? Thanks, btw! 👍
  8. Not so much a question as seeking confirmation. Am I right to assume that a guide bar can run different different chain pitches as long as the gauge is the same? So for example, if you had a saw running .325/1.5mm chain, you could change the drive sprocket and simply fit it with a 3/8/1.5mm chain on the same bar. Or even fit a different length 3/8/1.5mm chain and bar off something else, providing the bar mounts are similar naturally? And then following on from that, do all drive sprockets accommodate all different gauges of the same pitch? So can you fit both 3/8/1.3mm bar and chain and 3/8/1.5mm bar on chain on the same saw without having to change the drive sprocket? To me all the above seems obvious, but when it comes to such things I never make assumptions. Thanks in advance.
  9. First of all you really need to put a compression tester on it to see if there genuinely is compression. Wouldn't be the first time that someone mistook compression for scraping a badly seized piston up and down a bore. Then you need to dry the plug and put it back and see if it's wetting it. If it is and there's proper compression then you need to look at your spark. If it's not and there's proper compression then you need to look at your fuel supply, including crank seals. If there's proper compression, a fuel supply and a good spark at the right time it will go, I've never seen an engine yet defy the laws of physics. If it doesn't go then there's a problem somewhere.
  10. They are indeed excellent, but don't ever leave them outside or even in a dampish shed or garage. They rust like crazy, high carbon content in the steel apparently.
  11. Fair assessment, for me in this case noise would be the most appealing benefit of battery. I consider my woodland a place of peace and tranquility and introducing the rip of a noisey 2-stroke to it genuinely doesn't lay well with me in this instance. However, as per the post, I've been bought a wee bit of time for now to reassess.
  12. Just "Made in Germany", so plainly post unification. There's a sticker with numbers on it and 97 stands out so i'm guessing that's possibly the year of manufacture. If that's the case it's in remarkable condition for a farm saw, still the CE stickers and everything on it.
  13. I'll have to check. Certainly feels as if it's built like a tank anyway!
  14. No resolution (or money spent!) yet, but a turn of events has kicked the can down the road a bit. To be honest I was struggling, not that there weren't saws that I could have bought, just that there was nothing jumping out at me as being the obvious thing for the job, and certainly nothing that I would have been confident enough to place an order for online without seeing or handling the goods. A neighbour in the meantime has offered me the use of his 109 Dolmar, it's like 20yrs old at least but has done very little, still has all the stickers on it!, has a 15in bar on it, and I can have it until I eventually get out and get something. It's a heavy wee brute, doesn't actually feel that much lighter than the 266 to be honest, but it's smaller and a bit easier started so it'll buy me a bit of time. Getting out and getting stuck in will probably be helpful in determining more precisely what I should get as well. Must admit I increasingly like the idea of battery power, more for the quietness than anything, but how much?????? Crazy money for something compared to petrol equivalent, and they're certainly not a lightweight option either! I wonder if there's a bit of cashing in on the 'green agenda' going on there? However, spending a few weeks cutting will maybe give me a better idea of precisely what balance of weight/power/durability I actually need. Thanks for all contributions.
  15. I worked a lot on TZ Yamahas in the 70's when they were using actual chrome on the barrels. The platings they were using from the 80's on were different (i.e. not chrome!) and rightly so, chrome was a very imperfect means to an end. Thus the terminology is a puzzle, especially as it would appear going by what you say that it isn't actually chrome anyway. Looks increasingly like it something to sound good on the marketing blurb.


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