Rob_the_Sparky

and naff all insulation

You are lucky. I do get some good dense wood in the mix but rarely that much. He did contact me a few weeks ago asking if I wanted some oak, told him that was a silly question! Not whole trees worth though.

FYI 0C to +70C is the standard temperature range for commercial electronics, would not be surprised if cables follow this but do not know for sure. These are board level temperatures, not ambient temperatures, by the way so the TV will be rated at a lower temperature than this, potentially quite a lot lower. If you are worried about flue temps, then maybe you put the flue out through the wall and up the outside and build a fake chimney inside with all the shelving space you could want behind the TV. Personally I'd be cautious about putting electronics above wood burner though regardless of the flue but you might be OK, I do not know for sure. I have never put a thermometer on the wall above my wood burner to know what sort of temps I get for sure.

Yeah, if selling logs then hardwood is what most people are going to ask for. Hence being picky about only hardwood means you are unlikely to get much as hardwood is much less likely to be dumped. Also the tip site is set-up for traders working outside their areas so it is also worth contacting local traders direct to see what is available (either to buy as logs or as waste product for you to process into logs)

I got my supplies by contacting several local tree surgeons. It took a little while and a false start but for the last few years have got my supply from a local company that drops waste wood at mine if he is passing my house on the way back. I.e. he drops when it is convenient to him and text me before hand just to check. (I only say no if I'm already over flowing...)

I'd contact your local tree surgeons as a starting point (unless you need it ASAP or must have straight lengths) as some companies generate wood that they have no use for "arb arisings". It requires you to be flexible with what type of wood and what shapes you take (basically you get what they have) but it is cheaper than trying to get hold of what you might call processor grade wood, that is nice straight lengths of a certain diameter. The down side will be that it is generally available when it is cut so you are less likely to be able to place a largish order as above but I certainly get that sort of quantity of wood over the period of a year from a single small local company and I'm certainly not the only place he drops logs to.

Well hardwood can be turned into good product. Odd bits/softwood is harder to process/not as attractive to buyers so is quite possibly available. Requests for hardwood for beer don't go down so well but willingness to take anything they have on the back of the truck that will burn and you might get some takers. If you want the best wood then expect to pay. If the trader can make more money by processing it and selling it then they will. Why would they give it away if there is income to be made? Unseasoned but processed logs can be had but there is not much interest as the cost is not hugely less than the seasoned logs as you are paying the trader to process the wood into logs. Generally the wood that will be available at cut price will be the stuff that happens to be on the back of the lorry at the time they are passing your house and they have not desire to drag back to base.

Yes it can be done. I quite liked the pear wood I got and yes I seasoned it in a year over a decent summer no problems. (South facing log rack, good air flow and protected from the rain)

Try the tip site and/or directly contacting traders in your area. If you are not fussy and the traders get a benefit then you can get wood but it has to benefit all so be reasonable. I.e. do not be picky and do not expect it for free/beers. Not that this can not happen, just do not expect it.

Smaller logs will burn hotter/faster but certain types of wood will also burn faster. It will take "a while" to learn both the types of wood and your stove. You can also control the burn to an extent by limiting the air coming into the burner. If I leave my door open even a fraction (1 or 2mm) then it will burn very fast. I.e. you have a number of things to look at/consider. With lightweight softwood (low density) I now cut them into big chunks (1 at a time in the burner) and the burn is much easier to control and as a result they burn for longer. More dense woods don't burn so well in these big blocks and are better cut a bit smaller blocks and used 2 at a time. These are generalisations though and not a rule. I think it is a constant learning experience.

As per doobin - the small trolley jacks are something I would not buy unless I needed to transport it having used both types. The only down side with a full sized one is the weight and that is not a problem as long as it is on the floor (!). Do make sure though that the jack has the required height (lift) you need as well as the weight. Not a problem when lifting cars but if you are lifting stuff with high ground clearance you may need much greater lift and it is not to easy to put a trolley jack on a block of wood like a bottle jack. I got my latest one from Costco (a few years ago now) and it was <£70 that I thought was reasonable. I don't use it much though so although it certainly works well I do not know about durability.

You should try directly contacting your local companies. The tip site is aimed at people working outside their local area so you are not likely to get a regular supply. Rob

Why spread one on top of the other at all? Spread cream on one half, jam on the other and put them together...

Without a doubt it will be better, that Maul is poor so improving on it is not that hard! N.B. the head on the x25 and x27 are the same so it it horses for courses on which one you prefer.

Might be a good time for installers if the gas/elec prices continue to rise.

I got some rigger boots to work in (plus chainsaw trousers and gloves) and I never noticed doing it but I found a cut through the leather on the toe to the tow cap. Must have just touched at some point and it went straight through without me even noticing. I do not want to know what that would do to skin and I use a relatively weak mains electric saw. Use both hands on the saw and get some PPE. wrt sharpening, it takes a little while to get good at it but some simple hand tools and internet videos and advice and you will get there. I've messed up a chain on the way but I rescued it once I realised what I had done and still cheaper than buying new all the time. I give mine a sharpen when the cutting speed slows down, you can also look at the chip sizes (more dust and fewer chips = time to sharpen), as I have no fuel tank to fill! Big chunks will take longer to dry so now I agree with the above but once you have a longer term supply then larger chunks are good to keep the fire in for longer so you can play with log size once you get used to it. Drying times vary with a number of factors but small chunks for now seems sensible.

You can try the tip site but that is aimed more for contractors outside their normal area. Otherwise just contact your locals directly. If you are not fussy and there is enough space for their vehicles then you stand a better chance.

It will depend on the grain I think is going to be the right answer. A nice straight grain will split fairly easily. A chunk from the butt or full of branches will be MUCH harder. I've never had to split something this large but I don't see why a wedge or two plus an axe will not work but as above it really isn't worth the effort to spilt stubborn pieces if it is too hard then get the saw out (and I'm a stubborn git who likes to avoid the saw if at all possible). The saw will work if you get stuck.

Agreed. I think you would be better off putting it on a pallet outside with something to keep the worst of the rain off. If it is fresh felled then it will be very wet already so not going to get worse outside and cold temps + air flow should prevent that mould. Just stack it with air gaps as you need the air flow to dry it.

I'm not sure they care if you want them or not if they are taking without asking. At a previous company we had some heavy steel H beams go walkies, they were only left out for a day as they were rather heavy as we were going to use them next morning. I think it is case of cruise round and just take stuff they can make money off. You should always ask...

I suspect the people advertising pallets are trying it on. Plenty of local businesses round here want shot of them. We picked up 6 the other day from a local business and could have had a LOT more. They had 3 stacks shoulder high! I guess the double length pallets are some sort of standard but you will find non-standard ones out there. We get some at work but not very many.

As above I now use an x27 having started with the Screwfix maul and now never use the maul. However, using the maul meant that all my crappy learning hits that missed did not damage a decent axe so by the time I got the x27 I knew how to hit a piece of wood(!) and it is working very nicely. I prefer an x27 but others prefer an x25 (same head just a shorter handle). For nasty bits of wood I use a Fiskars twisting wedge and a sledge hammer (which I already had). However, there was a cheaper wedge that looks identical out there. This is the cheaper one that looks the same: Roughneck ROU65510 Wood Twister Splitting Wedge 5lbs/2.3kg : Amazon.co.uk: Garden & Outdoors There are times I just decide to split everything, because I'm stubborn, but it isn't generally worth the effort. Having done it for more time I have learnt ways to split around most of the awkward bits and rarely use the wedge and hammer now but there are a few pieces I use it for. Nice to have it available as back-up should that be needed. Saw wise I am very happy with my mains electric saw. It has more power than any battery saw, is much cheaper and has no batteries to run out. The downside is being tied to the house via a mains lead but that is not a problem I need to solve as arisings arrive at the house so no need to take the saw anywhere. I have fitted an outside socket near where I chop the wood. Rob P.S. I did wonder when I bought the x27 whether I'd end up buying a maul as well but I never did as I have just not needed it. P.P.S. splitting is easier if you use a butt end chunk as an anvil rather than splitting on the floor. The extra height makes it better. The butt end chunks do not split easily so make good anvils. P.P.P.S(!) "Norwegian Wood... by Lars Mytting" is a very good book to read.

Some older car are fie to run as daily drivers but I guess it depends on how far you drive and where you drive. However, fuel consumption can be a higher cost than the tax rates so not necessarily a good idea. I'm not seeing anything in there on pre-2001 vehicles but I doubt those will be let off. The exchequer needs to keep the money coming in and has promised to tax electric car less and is also losing out on fuel tax incomes from electric vehicles so has to claw it back somewhere. Prepare to repeated rises in the next few years as they justify balancing the books anyway they can.

It will take you a bit of time to get up to speed but once you get sorted out where you are going to store it try to get more than you need so you can put the newly delivered stuff in a stack for a while before splitting it as and when it is convenient. Hint and tip: splitting in summer is hot work so both for drying time but also for comfort splitting early in the year is a good idea. Wood dries quicker when in short lengths but also better when split. The bark reduces water loss. If you split that now it will easily be ready for the end of the year assuming you stack it sensibly (don't leave it like that in a pile on the ground!). The simplest way to keep the wood off the ground is a few pallets. Many small businesses have to pay for pallets to be removed so are more than happy to let you collect them (just ask). Also most pallets can be burnt if you have too many (check the stamp on the pallet for details: Ultimate Guide To Pallet Markings - Universal Pallets). They are a bit of a pain due to all the nails but can make decent tinder if you have the time. My first log stores were just the wooden containers used to deliver slabs, turned on their sides with a few pallet wood planks to keep the rain off. Not very space efficient but VERY quick starting point. I have since then moved to making them from second hand fence posts (just cut off the rotten section at the bottom) with pallet wood planks to make the slats. Another simple way is to use pallets for the base, a pallet on end with a plank nailed on the diagonal to hold it in place and them whatever you can get hold of to keep the rain off. Just know that you can build very good log stores for almost zero cost (basically the price of some nails/screws) so don't go buying them (Unless you aren't that handy but assuming you are). Also Screwfix splitter/hatchet/"wood grenade": Splitter is OK for learning with, hatchet is blunt but OK, the wood grenade is more like a giant nail than anything useful to split wood. Yes this is what I started with. Hope all that helps Rob

P.S. the runners are quite close to the surface so digging them out is not too hard once you find them. If you let them run for many years though I bet it is a nightmare.