spudulike

The idle screw shouldn't be that loose, use a little thread lock on it or superglue just to hold it. I have never set the idle screw like you do, you usually set the H&L screw to typically one turn out each (may be different on some saws and depends if limiters are fitted) and then adjust the idle to suit. If the carb has had a major rebuild, I usually turn the idle right out until you cant see light around the throttle valve plate and then turn it in until you can start seeing light around it so you get a reasonable start position.

Looks like a nice job to me and have slept a fair bit in my time so consider myself an expert

Yeah....new fuel....... nothing to do with sorting the carb out!

Good, glad it worked out OK

The saw has used a number of carbs over the years but the ones I have done, the metering arm is set level with the surrounding metal around it and not level with the part the diaphragm sits on like the MS200 C1Q

You could have flooded it....plug out, turn upside down and pull it over fast a few times, if fuel runs out, it is flooded. Let it dry, heat the plug, pop it back in, hold the throttle wide open and pull it over hard, no decomp and see if it pops.

The basics are spark, fuel and compression. Spark - earth it on top of the cylinder and pull over the saw hard, it should be a nice fat spark. After trying to start it, the plug should be damp - if it isn't, it will most likely be the carb. Compression - can you feel good compression on the starter handle? It is possible that you didn't set the metering arm on the new carb kit and it now isn't letting in fuel (dry plug) or holding the needle valve open and flooding the engine (wet plug). It is most likely a fuel problem if it ran fine on the last outing and went away running. All petrol engines suck air - it is the way they work!

I can't see why a dry needle bearing should cause a clutch spring to snap. It is usually either the shoes wearing through the spring loop or it just fatigues and breaks.

Yes on pressure and vac testing through the plug hole, I made an adaptor as you are suggesting.

I don't know on the squish, the breathers only let air in but do flow one way only.

On oiling, if the saw is fired up with no bar, you should get a good solid dribble of oil running down the side of the saw in a few seconds. My usual inspection is to check the bar oiler hole....you would be surprised, just done a MS150 and it was blocked!!! Spin the clutch off, check the oiler arm isn't loose on the plastic pinion and grips the pinion well. Check the END of the oiler arm, they often wear off especially when the drum is a bit wobbly. If this is all OK then the oil pump comes off, check the oil pickup filter and pipe isn't blocked - the tank should be fine if you have flushed it. Check the plastic pinion thread is good - VERY unlikely it has failed on this machine model. The pump...if you put the drive shaft in certain positions, carb cleaner/WD40 can generally be forced passed it if sprayed down the outlet hole so try that, look down the holes and you can use a compressor on it. The plug will be on the inlet side of the pump if plugged. You can use a bit of fuel line pushed against the holes and blow through them. If the pump is clear and the spray goes through a bit easy then if the machine is high hours then it may be the pump is bad - the steel pump shaft can wear the alloy it sits in and after a time, it will stop pumping with any force so a new one will be needed. If that doesn't work.....panic

There should be no "up and down" movement in the piston to crank but there is always a slight movement side to side piston to con rod and around 2mm each side of the rod to the crank lobes at the big end.....if I am understanding you correctly. This float is perfectly acceptable whereas vertical movement shows wear in the ends, gudgeon pin or crank bearings. The crank shouldn't move in the cases on this saw. They will on MS200s and similar as the bearings are a needle type allowing for some end-float and not roller bearings which hold the crank in place.

Yup, 48 hrs in a freezer and the chipper chips better, far less blood so less evidence. Just seen the film The Irishman, obviously didn't use a freezer, not as effective!

I think the IRA had the same idea, 48hrs in the freezer then fed in through the chipper to feed the pigs!

Sounds good, let us know how it proceeds, should keep you busy!

I saw it, very nice....now, the guitar....come on......tell the story even if you have no pics....may be an idea for the next few months!

I think I must be the only self employed guy that thinks the self employment support is OK. Seems the logical thing to do basing it on your tax return profits after all that would normally be your living and business investment money, not sure what else he could have done as basing it on each 5.5 million cases would be impossible. Anyway....tell me more Stubby, building a Telecaster, Fender parts or a kit from ANother? Pickups??? come on, Pics and details

Not sure I agree but each man to his own!

Sounds like you are well on your way, glad you know what the issue is now.

I saw a video of a Chinese Live Animal Market today, it came from a customer, not sure where it originally came from but if it was widely viewed, I reckon there would be a big outrage against the Chinese and their animal markets.

It does get rid of mildew and mould. No idea on your application though.

Well, my bench is quiet but the garden is looking pretty tidy. TBH, I have enjoyed having a bit of time to do the jobs that usually take me a time to get around to doing. Not sure about the circumstances that have led to me having a bit more time though.

What are the speakers? Running Castle Severn 2s myself and Mordaunt Short surround system. Linn....Sondeck LP12 is it? Always the Audiophiles favourite, my budget only went to a Rega Planar 2 in my youth!

They are known as Long Case Clocks....I have one as well, always wanted one, nearly 200 years old and keeps damn good time! I often wonder what will still be floating around in 200 years that is manufactured today. Very little I think!

The OP says the saw starts "easy" when hot which goes against piston wear or seize but agree that the first thing I always check is the compression but based on the description, sounds unlikely. You can check the bore by looking down the plug hole but needs a good LED light to illuminate the exhaust side cylinder wall.