spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Rule No1 of the saw club - vintage saws should be owned by people who can fix them
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How much do you pay for your stove wood?
spudulike replied to BowlandStoves's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
I just test saws through the year and it tends to fill the log store pretty quickly. -
Damn, can't a man get some rest
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They do stop damage to the starter pulley etc.....just saying!
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Yup, made it myself and stuck a 6mm drill straight through the fleshy part of my thumb as a reward. You need to either have the factory tool or get inventive for the flywheel side!
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The 357 has stuffers, makes splitting them more difficult without the right tools.
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As Robert Plant sang.....and it makes me wonder.........
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Just fall in to it, slippers, nice cardie or tank top, bargain hunt on TV.....all good, embrace it.
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Is that supposed to be funny....I guess it may be.....of course you do
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I charged for a re-pack on the bin bag job and did get paid on both my non paid saws....in the end. In one case, it wasn't the money, it was the fact he pleaded he needed the saw, would definitely pay the bill the next day and like a mug, sent the bloody thing back, 6 weeks later I asked for the new cylinder kit on his machine to be returned as it was my property....he got the message in the end!!
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Just use a typical business card, that will do the job. Place it between the coil and flywheel magnets, let the magnets draw the coil toward the flywheel and do the screws up....pretty simple.
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Found it, the volcano spares system works again....part 1122 400 1204, definitely off an 064 but they had many variants so check the back first to compare part numbers.
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I think I have one somewhere in the garage but am damned if I can find it. Pull your flywheel and get the part number off the back. I think it is a thinner flywheel than the 066 one that I was after and may be able to dig it out with more time. I do know it is in decent condition.
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Sorry but this has to be done, not that it helps......
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And I, in the early days, washed a McCulloch down with a bit of water and detergent, next day, the clutch was solid and needed work to shift it again. Looks like you got lucky, amazed it didn't corrode as I also had an old Solo, poured a cup of water out of the bore when I got it and it was solid. I did get it running.....for 10 seconds before it permanently died as the piston was badly corroded to the bore. I guess there are always exceptions but my experience is bare steel covered in water rusts very quickly.....think car disks, leave them a weekend in the rain and bingo....rust and very grabby brakes for the first few applications.
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Both poles are a oval and if they twist, it locks the shaft in place. Try rotating the end shaft one way or the other and see if it frees it up.
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The last two posts are about right and mirror what I said, if your engine gets a dunk, you need to get it started PDQ as it generates heat, the water gets driven out and parts get covered in oil again otherwise it will rust very fast.
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when you think you're good, but you ain't
spudulike replied to tree-fancier123's topic in Climbers talk
My Mrs busted her wrist a year ago, same gig, gas and pulling the wrist back in to place, interesting for me watching but painful for her! OK now but it takes a lot longer than you think to get a wrist or ankle back in to some semblance of order! Good luck -
Clear excess water, refuel and run ASAP, the damage will happen if the saw rusts/corrodes, getting it running PDQ means it generates heat and will coat engine parts in oil. I have had clutch bearings seize overnight from getting wet.
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Clarify what he wants to cut/do with it then ask again as you are going to get a lot of various suggestions from fixed blade, lock, multi tool, silky, carving etc
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Just fitted a set of these - Tennessee Revivals. Matched pair. Chrome silver finish – Warman Guitars WWW.WARMANGUITARS.CO.UK A pair of Warman Tennessee Revival chrome high quality humbucking pickups. These are based upon our original... In my Ibanez Artcore AS 73 hollow body and, apart from being a sod to fit with no access covers to remove on the guitar, they have given the guitar a fair bit of growl and clarity for £30. So, if you have a project you are thinking of fitting new humbuckers on, these are well worth considering and wont' break the bank.
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Funny that, I also sharpen drills by eye on a grinding wheel. Once you understand how the cutting parts of the drill are formed, It works well.
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Got to love this repairing gig - here are some more gripes apart from crappy dirty machines in dangerous condition - Saws being sent in via courier with just a bin liner wrapped round the saw for protection.....you know who you are!!! I fix a saw in 1-2 weeks and then find the owner hasn't got the £££ to pay so I then wait weeks for him to save up whilst his saws fill my workshop. Think I will go back on holiday.
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Is that quite quiet All nylon mesh air filters need a good dousing with fluid and blasting with an air compressor every week or so. Water is no good and as ADW says, they often look clean but are often completely blocked causing the saw to run like it is on partial choke or leaning on AT saws. Best one was a saw in from France with this as the running issue!
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Quite possibly. If the compression is through the floor, no but if the compression is on the low side, it may well fire cold and run then not restart when hot. I would be looking at the compression and carb at first. I am guessing the saw won't start on the fast throttle start setting. This may be a poorly adjusted carb (low speed or idle), a carb issue (dirt, damaged parts), the choke not sealing correctly or a number of other carb related issues. Basically the carb isn't giving the saw enough fuel to start and that may be down to the carb, the compression or even a big air leak can cause it. May be worth taking it to someone good at fixing kit. Generally a good one can tell in minutes if not seconds what the fault may be.
