spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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New bar and old chains... they don't go together!
spudulike replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
Kenneth Williams, fast, clever and cutting......always funny - not quite so camp myself but like the humour! -
Yup, I think a few need to learn manners and give thanks for any help offered and then feedback if the info helped or not. Recently all the old members on here are discussing an issue well after the OP has pissed off in to the distance!
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New bar and old chains... they don't go together!
spudulike replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
Go on, name and shame....that will teach them I am not sure what people get taught but some can't even adjust an idle let alone tell if a sprocket is worn or not. Bet most don't even know what those lines on the Oregon Powermatch Rims actually are! -
Is it me or is the site rife with first posters asking for help and then disappearing in to the distance...perhaps they start the job and then got Covid 19 or perhaps as Elton DIDNT say...Thanks seems to be the hardest word! It is beginning to grate a bit - not how I was brought up!
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TBH, I don't know but I do know the clutch drum is completely different. The 020T and mS200T are completely interchangeable but the 020AV is nothing like them and suspect none of the parts will fit - I don't have one now, flogged it for £60 to a kid that loved it!
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All you need to do is say where you are in the country and someone may see it, see it is for sale, make you an offer and....well....you may SELL it £70.....bargain!
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New bar and old chains... they don't go together!
spudulike replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
I usually find sarcasm is quite effective. I said to one customer that the issue with his saw was the lack of a compressor, He totally missed the joke and said which part of the saw was a "compressor".......made me chuckle! On the other hand - one customer sent three saws in, I gave him the usual....you can grow spuds on those saws, he sent me a pic of his new compressor and every machine thereafter was nice and clean...Mr Harrison, you are a gent -
Dynamite and ear muffs
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3 parts, lump of rubber with a metal plate either end, one with a female threaded hole, the other with a male threaded stud on it.
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Tips for proper break-in of a brand-new saw? (Echo 355t)
spudulike replied to ArborOdyssey's topic in Chainsaws
Flat out for short periods, don't leave it idling for long periods, keep the heat down so no long flat out runs. Theory - piston and bore are rough to begin with, this will cause more heat to be generated whilst running in hence short periods of flat out. These rough surfaces allow the piston and ring to form the same shape of the bore but you have limited time as the rough surfaces will smooth out relatively quickly so you use it flat out for short periods allowing for the parts to bed in quickly. This will give the saw more compression and therefore, more torque/power. -
Some on older machines I have had in have sort of melted or the outside has got sticky looking. They haven't melted completely, more of a bit of reaction between the rubber and the oil. Don't try the Chinese ones, they are utter shyte!
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Husqvarna only list 0.325 on the 550 and 346. I know you CAN convert the saws, it doesn't mean it is a good idea. I reckon the 346 will be a bit harsh to use on a 3/8th personally. There is only one type of oiler for the 346 and 550. The 357XP had two types of oiler pinion, never worked out why and can only think the pinions design was changed for the different rim diameters as you can just swap the rim types on the same drum so will run on the same pinion. Perhaps ADW can give a potted history
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Low compression or main bearings. Owners don't look after the filters, stone dust is incredibly abrasive and this destroys pistons, cylinders and bearings. Check the compression, you need 150+ and check the main crank bearings for play.
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Pretty much what I hear from a lot of customers, I tend to do favours for regular local customers, it is the way it works isn't it? 6 months, that's really bad, three months round here which is a bit of a lifetime as my locals get 2-4 days if parts aren't needed or 2 weeks if by courier, getting stuff back the next day can happen if not too loaded at the time. Most are shit scared I will dump them if they don't pay PDQ so are pretty prompt - ebb and flow of business, it works well in my books.
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The 372XP is Walbro so about double the size! Sorry to piss on the fireworks - nice offer though!
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It probably wasn't hooked on before as it has forced the metering arm down. You just apply a light pressure in the middle of the diaphragm and slide it on to the metering arm and the outer location pegs at the same time. Relatively simple but important otherwise it will flood like that other fellas 026 that wasn't a carb issue!!
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That would explain the low compression then. The suck on the inlet manifold won't be much as it is caused by the piston going up in to the bore producing what is known as Primary Compression in the crankcase and sucks fuel mix and air in to the crankcase. A big air leak may stop fuel being pulled in. Is the plug wet after 10-15 pulls with choke on?
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Looks like a TIllotson, level with the bottom of the bowl, NOT the outer carb body. The gauze strainer should be a smaller one than most other saws with Walbro or Zama carbs, never really got that one as they are fitted to some of the larger saws. Check the dimple in the middle of the diaphragm as if it is notched, it needs to hook on to the metering arm. If solid, it just rests on it as normal.
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And still no news from the OP..........think he may have sorted it and done the normal fecking off in to the distance......Nice McCulloch Wes....always good to fire up when the neighbours have a garden party
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You can never have enough
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Yup, a set of easy outs is invaluable plus Sealy do their version which also work. I think most techs will have their own versions - drilling a hole down the sheared bolt/stud is usually the hardest thing to do!
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It is usually a case of smacking in the next size Allen, a slightly larger AF Allen or a suitable torx bit. You could do this and try a rattle gun on it for the most undoing impact. A flat screwdriver may also do it otherwise as someone earlier said, cut around the bolt and buy a new cover. If all else fails, drill the head off, remove the cover and then cut a slot in it, heat the fecker up and undo it with a screwdriver......there is always a way
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Not sure we are getting much feedback from the OP, a pic of the baron the mount would be useful...... you can take a horse to water but you cant make it wash your car as the old saying goes!
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New bar and old chains... they don't go together!
spudulike replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
See this stuff all day, I keep a good stock of drum sprockets for 201s and 200s plus a good selection of rims as most come in knackered as the owners are oblivious!
