spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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If it is brand new, it really needs to go back. The issues may be an air leak or a sticky throttle. If you remove the air filter, you can get to the throttle linkage and if you rev the saw, you should be able to manually shut the throttle off by pushing the linkage to close the throttle rather than relying on the carbs springs, the revs should drop the instant you do this. If this doesn't happen, you probably have an air leak. If the L screw is a bit lean, the saw can also hang on to revs - you could try turning it anticlockwise against the limiter and see if it improves. The manufacturers like to leave the settings a bit lean to reach emission levels!
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Wood burners: Most polluting fuels to be banned in the home
spudulike replied to arboriculturist's topic in Firewood forum
Well I have just measured the logs I am using and they were between 12-15% I am now having to spray them with water to meet the governments guideline of 20% ........or am I missing something Who actually burns wet logs anyway -
The MS200 is advertising my business, he is my Business Development Manager......note the sticker on the top of the fuel tank Top job Don!
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Fairly unlikely to be an air leak, more likely to be the carb. Get it set back to factory settings then tweak the L screw and idle for a decent ldle then adjust the H screw for around 13krpm then test. It may need a FULL carb kit and I say "FULL" meaning metering arm, spring, needle and the diaphragms.
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I believe they may be the Holy Grail!
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Nothing I don't do myself. I almost lost my sight at around 12 years old, you don't miss it until you are close to losing it.
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Put your safety specs on Matt, they cost bugger all to save something priceless!
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I wanted a new mattress for our Norfolk bolt hole and got an Ikea Morgedal. It is a relatively thin memory foam mattress so no good if you and/or the Mrs are a bit rotund but I have my best nights sleep on it, no lower back issues, no pain and I find it very comfortable which is good as other mattresses I have had haven't been a patch on it. I find our Ergoflex a bit hard although it is better than the sprung one we used to have but find the Ikea one more supporting - this may just be a personal thing as everyone is different.
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Going back to the dodgy port, remove the cylinder, get a carbide burr on the flash and open it up so the port matches the shape of the main cast port shape. DO check that there are no ring ends near the port BEFORE you grind and also check that the piston skirt will cover the port completely on its full travel up and down. Bevel the port edges after grinding so the ring doesn't snag and then rebuild.
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I have done a Mk2 550XP a week ago.
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At least they didn't get your 372!! Little feckers!
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I picked up a bit from Arboristsite, a couple of two stroke tuning books and worked out the rest for myself. As I run a business and do porting, there is a limit to what I will publish whilst I am still running this business as some of the things I do have not been published anywhere on the net so like to keep them private. As far as muffler mods go, you need to think about what the gasses need to do, where they go and what the muffler needs to do. Back pressure is damn important to expansion chambers and infinitely less so in conventional chainsaw mufflers so you don't need to get hung up on it. Just study the port openings, how large they can be and the constraints of what you are working with ie ring ends and skirt widths. It isn't rocket science but it is a dark art!
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I have ported a few 026/MS260s, the last one went out to Sweden and it actually impressed me. It was a very pristine example but it had some balls once I had done some work on it. Don't knock the old machines, ones in good condition still work well, the AVs and weight may be a little better on modern saws but the MS260 is quite a tidy machine, personally I prefer the 346XP but as I said, the one I did had some real grunt and impressed me.
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Glad you are happy with it, always good to get the feedback....cheers.
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That last description is correct for the strato type engine. It basically sticks a lump of clean air in front of the next charge of fuel air in the transfers so when the burnt exhaust needs to be pushed out of the exhaust port it is with clean air rather than fuel/air some of which would have escaped out of the exhaust so this makes the strato system a cleaner engine.
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Your port in the picture - The yellow marks your current exhaust port and it has not been formed correctly. The red marks the area that needs to be bored out - don't forget to bevel the port. The cylinders will be cast, machined, plated and then the ports bevelled, I have seen ports like this before and usually just open them up to match the intended shape unless it is to be ported. You speak about widening ports but haven't mentioned the constraints of the size of bore, ring ends, skirt width, bevelling etc and suggest you understand a bit more before grinding out metal as I have never found a way of sticking the filings back once they hit the bench.
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That isn't good, looks like either a ring has failed, a foreign body has entered the carb or the big end has failed which is the most likely. When the big end cage cracks and breaks up, it flicks bits of white metal through the engine causing this sort of damage. That damage has bruised those ports, the lower "Transfer" is in fact the strato clean air port, the two top ones are transfers. Personally I would scrap this one, the previous one looked much sweeter.
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Try getting a big screwdriver under the front cover between the two removed front bolts, use the top edge of the oil tank as a fulcrum.....that's a pivot point! and try to lever the muffler off. It is only rust and perhaps an old gasket holding it in place!
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I have done a couple with the laser etched serial numbers and they seem a bit more stable than the early ones. I always said it was like Echo designed the saw, had a warehouse full of carbs and said...."lets use these up, they should do".....and they are a bit sensitive to adjustment.
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It maybe the mesh that is orange, noticed that a while ago!
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When I was in gainful employment, we got ours done by Pirtek, can't say if they were good bad or indifferent but guess our maintenance guys used them for a reason!
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Yup, I have ordered a few bits from Skylands, no issues from them!
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Old fuel oil mix, straight petrol, incorrect adjusted carb, air leak, carb issue etc... That's about it. Just tach it so it is 500 -1000rpm below maximum and all should be fine.
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I had a 151 in recently, the owner thought is was a bag of poo, it only livened up with the normal Spud recipe which resolved the issues. I tried it before modding and was totally unimpressed as well, afterwards it was like any modded 150 but it was new with one tank through as the owner refused to use it as he owns one of my modified 150s Matt will know who it was.....and it wasn't him!
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In life there are technicians, blacksmiths and rednecks. I can't charge people to drill holes like that and call it a business so use methods that are engineered, calculated, look nice and work without burning your leg or the saws plastics. My muffler mods won't deafen the operator but do what they need to, increase the flow without being stupidly loud. The end result may be similar but it just depends on what the saws owner is looking for.
