spudulike

I did mean the internal gauze strainer in regards to the 372 sounding like it was lacking fuel, the other option is a split fuel line where it pushes through the wall in the fuel tank where they can split and leak air giving this sort of issue. These are the things I generally check when servicing these saws. Bit difficult to follow the dialogue!

Probably a bit of crud in the gauze carb filter.

You just need the new pulley and move the washer, pawl, rope/handle and retaining pawl spring to the new pulley. The old pulleys tend to eat the ergo start springs and is bloody annoying!

He seems to have posted this twice and ADW has said what I have said on the other post!

Looking closer at your machine photos, it looks like residual oil from revving the machine and not from normal cutting as when you cut, the oil ends up in the wood and chip and not running off the machine.

Does it leak along the bar and chain The oil should come out of the oiler channel, enter the bar and is pushed along the bar by the movement of the chain drive links. If you stand there and rev it for 10-20 seconds, the oil will be flung off the bar, bar cover and drip out of the bottom of the saw. If the saw is left running, no oil should drip out of the underside of the saw, the chain shouldn't move either as the oiler will only work when the chain is spinning. Older machines would constantly oil but most modern machines don't. This model can leak from the rubber pipe leading from the oil tank to the oil pump but a new machine shouldn't leak like this.

Is this a free service you offer, you may be on to something

I would rather stick chilli covered angry wasps up the old posterior!!!

I have the exact same set, the pointer on the big black handle is a sprung loaded centre point, the round punches screw on to the handle, you place the point on the material you want to punch a hole in, you compress the centre point then belt the end of the handle with a mallet. They are for punching holes in leather, gasket, rubber etc. Useful in making gaskets or circular disks of rubber/leather for gaskets and rudimentary seals etc. I believe they may be RS Component ones.

Just one of the reasons I hate these bloody saws to work on!

From the symptoms it sounds like lack of fuel. You could try turning the L screw a 1/4 turn anticlockwise - that is if your carb has the L&H screws and isn't the single screw one. If this doesn't work, it could be a blocked gauze filter in the carb or dirty fuel filter. You don't say what age the saw is but if it is an old one, the fuel line could be split or the carb diaphragms may be past their best. The plug colour you have got just tells you that flat out, the saw is running as it should and not that everything else is OK which probably rules out a split fuel line.

L&S are pretty damn good, fast delivery and always tell you if there is a delay. Out of stock parts are generally fulfilled pretty fast.

Measure the compression, one pull should be circa 75psi and then around 170psi after 6 pulls. If it is considerably lower, there is wear. The first pull can be quite indicative of issues. 346XPs often feel low on the handle! If low, roughen the bore lightly with a hone and fit a new Meteor piston, it will last many more years.

The 50cc goes on the 45cc body, straight fit. Some will tell you the 50cc one needs the primer but I have done a couple and they work fine with no primer system as long as the machine is set up correctly.

I heard their was a lack of PPE and there is the proof.....make sure you don't drop it on your tootsies

The seeds are doing well, spring onions in, cucumbers, tomatoes (cherry and normal), chillies, lettuce, courgettes etc. Got some pretty weird seeds off ebay, Russian and Japanese tomatoes, God knows what they will be like but hopefully OK.

The results are more torque, aggressive in the cut, higher revs in the cut, shortens cutting speed, you can lean on the saw more with less bogging etc. Varies from saw to saw, there are always models that turn out better than others. Yes, there is a percentage that most accept as the maximum you can go on port size but it doesn't work like that if there are other constraints of the engine design that stops you going to the maximum size - you have to understand how two strokes work and how the piston works in conjunction with the port openings and crankcase. I have done a few saws with pop up pistons and turned down cylinder bases, they are an expensive option due to the machining so tend to keep it simple to keep costs acceptable....get 75% of the easier gains rather than spending days trying to get the last 25% for 3X the cost! The only book that makes good reading is by Gordon Jennings, it gives a few pointers but is mainly aimed at motorcycle porting although it gives a good overall look at the subject.

Yup, makes his £1000 target look a bit misjudged. Great attempt and hats off to the old fella....big cheer and hope it inspires others.

I almost wrote the same but the 261 has an inboard clutch so it will only wedge itself against the drum locking it up nicely!!! Never been there

Yes, there are guidelines as to how large ports can be made, restrictive elements that can limit port size, minimum clearances piston to squish etc. I learnt some by looking online, some from reading a couple of books that I purchased and some by just developing my own techniques. Just use a dremel with a carbide burr or diamond burrs for lighter work. You can't put metal back on once you have ground it off so don't just think "wider the better" as many seem to think.

I would try a Meteor piston, Hyway are my third choice with OEM, Meteor and then HYway being the options but I have a theory that Hyway do manufacture Meteor Cylinders, not sure if anyone else has noticed the similarities? What you say is correct about compression etc If that retaining pin has come out, check the cases and muffler for it as it will wreak carnage on your engine if it is still floating around.

Looks like what I would call teak but bear in mind I know very little about wood types bar the normal knowledge! As Stubby says.....Mr Devile

I think the lead coming out of its back makes it a "Corded" saw!!!

Yup, nice new Nilfisk in the garage, drive, patio and car nice and clean.....just another job to stop the cabin fever!

Your Air arms should be every bit as good as the BSA, I only pop the rats with mine but it is always good, accurate & powerful. I am guessing it is pumped up to the correct pressure? It may be something to do with the hammer spring or the valve that releases the pressure to fire the shot. Perhaps a bit of silicon lube....looks like you need to hang around the airgun forum, sure someone will be good at fixing them!