spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Husqvarna only list 0.325 on the 550 and 346. I know you CAN convert the saws, it doesn't mean it is a good idea. I reckon the 346 will be a bit harsh to use on a 3/8th personally. There is only one type of oiler for the 346 and 550. The 357XP had two types of oiler pinion, never worked out why and can only think the pinions design was changed for the different rim diameters as you can just swap the rim types on the same drum so will run on the same pinion. Perhaps ADW can give a potted history
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Low compression or main bearings. Owners don't look after the filters, stone dust is incredibly abrasive and this destroys pistons, cylinders and bearings. Check the compression, you need 150+ and check the main crank bearings for play.
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Pretty much what I hear from a lot of customers, I tend to do favours for regular local customers, it is the way it works isn't it? 6 months, that's really bad, three months round here which is a bit of a lifetime as my locals get 2-4 days if parts aren't needed or 2 weeks if by courier, getting stuff back the next day can happen if not too loaded at the time. Most are shit scared I will dump them if they don't pay PDQ so are pretty prompt - ebb and flow of business, it works well in my books.
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The 372XP is Walbro so about double the size! Sorry to piss on the fireworks - nice offer though!
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It probably wasn't hooked on before as it has forced the metering arm down. You just apply a light pressure in the middle of the diaphragm and slide it on to the metering arm and the outer location pegs at the same time. Relatively simple but important otherwise it will flood like that other fellas 026 that wasn't a carb issue!!
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That would explain the low compression then. The suck on the inlet manifold won't be much as it is caused by the piston going up in to the bore producing what is known as Primary Compression in the crankcase and sucks fuel mix and air in to the crankcase. A big air leak may stop fuel being pulled in. Is the plug wet after 10-15 pulls with choke on?
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Looks like a TIllotson, level with the bottom of the bowl, NOT the outer carb body. The gauze strainer should be a smaller one than most other saws with Walbro or Zama carbs, never really got that one as they are fitted to some of the larger saws. Check the dimple in the middle of the diaphragm as if it is notched, it needs to hook on to the metering arm. If solid, it just rests on it as normal.
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And still no news from the OP..........think he may have sorted it and done the normal fecking off in to the distance......Nice McCulloch Wes....always good to fire up when the neighbours have a garden party
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You can never have enough
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Yup, a set of easy outs is invaluable plus Sealy do their version which also work. I think most techs will have their own versions - drilling a hole down the sheared bolt/stud is usually the hardest thing to do!
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It is usually a case of smacking in the next size Allen, a slightly larger AF Allen or a suitable torx bit. You could do this and try a rattle gun on it for the most undoing impact. A flat screwdriver may also do it otherwise as someone earlier said, cut around the bolt and buy a new cover. If all else fails, drill the head off, remove the cover and then cut a slot in it, heat the fecker up and undo it with a screwdriver......there is always a way
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Not sure we are getting much feedback from the OP, a pic of the baron the mount would be useful...... you can take a horse to water but you cant make it wash your car as the old saying goes!
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New bar and old chains... they don't go together!
spudulike replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
See this stuff all day, I keep a good stock of drum sprockets for 201s and 200s plus a good selection of rims as most come in knackered as the owners are oblivious! -
What compression gauge are you using? Some are made specifically for car engines where you crank the engine over a few times continuously with much larger cylinder volumes. You need to use a gauge specifically that will work with smaller bore engines. Have you checked the piston yet? In regards to the easy start, you have also used two carbs, why should it be a carb issue and not a top end issue?
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Just re read your compression figures - your "PS in 2" is "PSI" and not in two pulls as I thought you meant. 125 PSI is very low for one of these saws where a worn one will make 150 and a lightly used/reburbished one will make 170PSI. You have seized your saw, take the exhaust off and you will be greeted by a scored piston! The Dolmar 113 and 350 are different types of machine, one pro and one home owner. The 345/350 are actually pretty good machines despite there plastic parts. They can leak air around where the metal cylinder parts mate with the plastic but are nice to use.
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"Input Gaskets"......are you sure it is a 350??? There are no input gaskets!!!!
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Why measure the compression in that way where everyone else will give it one to see what sort of initial compression a saw has - 70psi+ is normal then 5-6 to give max compression 150-170 is typical with 170 on a nice engine. Sounds like a top end issue to me but can't be sure as you may not have used a known decent OEM carb.
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I reckoned it was Turkish in my first post......just a skill I have!! I have had two 346XPs in from the Turkish guy for one of my customers and they were 100% genuine Husqvarna product with NO doubt!
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I was under the impression that the 262 was an XP machine in the range 242XP, 254XP, 262XP, 256XP, 271XP etc Generally if it has a vertically split crankcase, adjustable oiler and closed transfer ports, it is a pro saw and these were all pro saws. Most of Husqvarna 65-70cc machines use their larger mount size - I reckon you have the wrong bar, how does it not fit? I think the 262XP is the small mount and you may have the large mount bar?
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Generally, each part will have a part number on it, the plastic covers and clutch cover will and will be in the format 503 62 80-01 which in this case is the air filter cover. Some parts may have "EM" on them - the metal clutch cover should, they should be marked "Made in Sweden" and they often have a date code in the style of a clock, one giving you the year of manufacture, the other the month of manufacture.
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Mower engine needs fuel pump button pressing
spudulike replied to cryptogram's topic in Maintenance help
Is that the flat four Subaru engine straight out of the Impreza? Possibly a Wastegate issue? -
The serial tag and box look genuine to me. Give me a minute and I would be able to tell straight away if it was in front of me. Turkish by any chance? The fake I saw had a super stiff recoil, the rubber pipes were soft and moulded with a flash mark down both sides and not like normal Husqvarna kit. Look for Mahle on the cylinder, A or B on the little flat by the spark plug and the usual moulded date codes and part codes on the different covers - if you are not sure!
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I will PM you a price as that is how I do business. If I published a price, 50 people would say it was a bargain and 50 would say it was far too expensive and I can't be bothered with all that faf, if you want it done...fab......if you don't, make room for the others that do......pretty simple model TBH.
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I got a friend a very clean one, it was ported and is his go to saw...one he will never part with...must have been good!
