spudulike

Unlikely, the bearings are roller type with the crank held solidly in place and have never seen issues with the seals. Most likely a carb issue or the engine mount issue which is common in this model. They are pretty good saws TBH!

It doesn't look like anything from Stihl or Husqvarna will fit, if it is split or perished, it looks like a wait to get it from the States. My old McCullochs had cast induction tubes, I did fit new carb kits, fuel lines and seals. The tanks were full of grott so a flush out is a good idea. I also checked the reed valves but I think your saw isn't reed induction so you should be OK. I also checked the contact breaker timing which is a bit of a learning curve if you are under 40 years!

I use a home blown method of getting over it....it works and sorts the mount and rubbing issue....and it doesn't cost too much - just part of the service. It is common so if your stop switch stops working - CHECK IT OUT!!!!!

Had another thought, I have seen a decent quantity of these with failed engine mounts causing the flywheel to rub on the plastic beneath it. It is very possible that this would cause the engine to stall on idle when the saw is on its side due to the extra friction between the flywheel and tank wall beneath it!

You need to push it in so it sits at the bottom of the tank where the fuel sits when it is in its side. It is more of an issue on 201s and 200s but worth a check. The earth point being loose would stop you turning the saw off. I can't see it stopping the machine like you have. The top engine mount forms part of the kill circuit. If your machine can't be turned off, it is pretty certain that your top engine mount is loose. Check the plug cap is on though, Riches one had a dodgy HT lead on it!

Either shyte in the carb gauze strainer or possibly more likely, the fuel filter and pipe are out of position in the fuel tank so the fuel filter comes out of the fuel when on its side!

Reminds me of my workshop......and you want this ported?????

It is a heavy life in corporate world isn't it, top wages, no stress, big pension It will be a 353....if you look at the top of the cylinder, it isn't a 346XP, that is for sure, it is OEM and therefore it looks like a 353 to me....the top end would be too rare to fit on a 346 bottom end so it is a 353.....Sherlock!! Oh...the caveat - I am but a mere scummy independent working from a shed

You have done the right thing reporting it, I reckon it is a 353, I would keep it if the saw is in good working order, you will find it difficult to sell now you know it has the serial plate missing so if it is OK, just keep it. It has an OEM top end and that is probably more than a lot of saws out there have.

Just read ADWs post again, did you mean the handle where it joins under the oil cap? Not sure I have ever seen anything under there.

Oh dear....not read the whole thread? It is missing!!! Now what do you reckon about it....353 I think! That cylinder is OEM but not 346XP!

350s don't have top cover clips. The bottom end is also plastic rather than being of vertical split crankcase design! The top end isn't a 346 and the early 353s didn't have purge bulbs same as the early 346XPs!

50:1 is fine, make sure it is sparking OK, these old saws are a bit temperamental and have a habit of killing you trying to start them. Vintage saws need to be owned by people that understand them! My McCullochs have a screw you take out of the carb so you can tell when the fuel has been pumped in to the carb. They ain't like modern saws.....but are fun once going!

Yes but is it fixed yet, failure isn't an option, death or glory......!!!

I think this is what you need! XECCS2511TES20161024151747.pdf

Bloody hell, just get on with it man, sleep is for wimps, there are 24hrs in the day........failure is not an option I was saying to the wife the other day that you forget how much knowledge you acquire over time and it is only when you tell someone how to do something you think is quite simple - fit a bar and chain for instance, you realise some know nothing and how much info you have accumulated.

No......but......... no rings it would make around 70psi with no rings and combustion would be impossible. Sometimes the subject matter is near ludicrous but I guess others have little to no experience. The rings will be there but being a different colour, may look like they are missing. I think the OP may never come back to confirm!

My first suggestion is....put your fecking glasses on, the second is.....shine a fecking torch down the exhaust port!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The saw will not make compression without its rings, you think they are not there....they will be. I have dropped one ring on some Stihls to allow port modification, not the 260 but it does work and well.

I think it is time to get this sorted - the compression and piston condition must be good to start with - if you haven't, pull the muffler off and look at the piston - a pic would be good. When you pull the saw over slowly, as the piston goes through its compression stroke, does it feel nice and spongey or is it just too easy and slack? If you lift the saw off the deck with the recoil handle, does it just tumble downwards or stick for 1-3 seconds on each compression stroke (TDC)? If that bit is OK, it is likely that you have enough fuel for idle (low speed circuit) but not enough for high speed running (High speed circuit). If you haven't...change the fuel filter, it DOES make a difference. Then try the low screw on 1.5 turns and the H screw on 2 turns out. The saw should at least pickup on these settings. If it doesn't, try H screw 3 then 4 then 5 turns out - note any differences and come back to us. If still no joy, take the H screw out and give it a good blast of carb cleaner and reassemble L 1.5 turns and H 2 turns and try again. If still no joy, there is a slight possibility the check valve is stuck shut - when blasting the carb cleaner down the H screw - look at the end of the check valve in the carb bore and make sure the cleaner is coming through the nozzle in to the bore of the carb (Middle bore leading in to the engine). Worth checking the fuel line for splits - plug one end and blow down the other end - I use a Mityvac pump for this but assume you haven't got one! If that doesn't do it, it is a real oddity!!!! BMP - spot on on accelerator pump issues, air gets past and is then injected in to the check valve giving all sorts of idle issues BUT....high speed generally works OK and it isn't a sudden issue. A stuck pump (it happens) gives a very flat pickup but the engine will still rev out after a bit of feathering.

Damn, you found the family get together video!!!

As I said, it may be to kid a purchaser he is getting a 346XP as the saw model, year manufactured and serial are all on this plate! I would say it being hot is more likely TBH!

Oxford Dictionary I believe!!

The 353 and 346 are pretty much the same machine but with slight differences to port timing and piston diameter so difficult to tell what you have. Your saw is NOT an XPG so that recoil cover is NOT original. The clutch cover is a Silverside off a "New Edition" 50cc 346XP or XPG so NOT original. You either have a 346XP with a 353 cylinder and piston OR a 353 with a 346 recoil and clutch cover. My hunch is that it is a 353 made to look like the more popular 346XP - possible the serial was removed to fool you or it is hot! I base that on the fact the recoil cover and clutch cover are non original and a 353 top end would be a difficult one to get hold off in comparison to a 346 one. The 353 is OK, not as fast revving but probably more torque.

That plate should be almost circular on a 346 and with a sharp defined edge, not a cast bevel.

For the record - I have never stuck a 353 top end on a saw - not sure I have even had one in....a little bit rare due to the barnstorming 346XP!