spudulike

I almost wrote the same but the 261 has an inboard clutch so it will only wedge itself against the drum locking it up nicely!!! Never been there

Yes, there are guidelines as to how large ports can be made, restrictive elements that can limit port size, minimum clearances piston to squish etc. I learnt some by looking online, some from reading a couple of books that I purchased and some by just developing my own techniques. Just use a dremel with a carbide burr or diamond burrs for lighter work. You can't put metal back on once you have ground it off so don't just think "wider the better" as many seem to think.

I would try a Meteor piston, Hyway are my third choice with OEM, Meteor and then HYway being the options but I have a theory that Hyway do manufacture Meteor Cylinders, not sure if anyone else has noticed the similarities? What you say is correct about compression etc If that retaining pin has come out, check the cases and muffler for it as it will wreak carnage on your engine if it is still floating around.

Looks like what I would call teak but bear in mind I know very little about wood types bar the normal knowledge! As Stubby says.....Mr Devile

I think the lead coming out of its back makes it a "Corded" saw!!!

Yup, nice new Nilfisk in the garage, drive, patio and car nice and clean.....just another job to stop the cabin fever!

Your Air arms should be every bit as good as the BSA, I only pop the rats with mine but it is always good, accurate & powerful. I am guessing it is pumped up to the correct pressure? It may be something to do with the hammer spring or the valve that releases the pressure to fire the shot. Perhaps a bit of silicon lube....looks like you need to hang around the airgun forum, sure someone will be good at fixing them!

I haven't done mine yet, the filler connector leaked and replaced that but the rest seems OK for now. Do you know it has a fault? If it is leaking down, it may just need a new connector as mine did. They hold something like 2600psi in the gun! I have a S300 which is the forerunner of your rifle so must be fairly old.

I could and it is relatively easy on the PCP one but then it would be a firearm and the law is a bit heavy on that sort of thing so all mine are a fraction under 12FtLb. Not worth the risk!

I reckon the carb cleaner I use would work, it melts paint and some plastic so guess a few little bacteria would get fried by it.

I have done a Beech stock and a Walnut stock both on Air Arms rifles. I stripped the old varnish off with Nitromors, scrape off the gunge then clean the stock well - best done with the metal stripped off it wash all the residue off so it is very clean. You then have two options, Birchwood Casey True Oil or Liberon Finishing Oil. You can apply both oils with cloth or even your finger, both touch dry relatively fast and you just apply a few coats in the day, let it harden overnight and keep rubbing it down. If you apply a few coats, it stays satin and if you like high gloss, keep going and if you end up with too much gloss, take it back a little with fine steel wool and use a little wax over the top. I like the rub on Tung Oils as you don't get runs or brush marks plus it allows a gradual build up of coating until you get the finish you want. With Walnut, you need to seal it by sanding lightly with oil and sandpaper then rub the slurry in to the pores, Beech is fine without doing this.

Flippin heck, I gave you a big drum roll entrance expecting some flanged trunion pin being 0.001mm larger in diameter and that was it.....I feel dejected and let down

Just use cheap vodka, that will do the job at £10 a bottle! I guess you could mix it with hair gel to make up a similar product.

The OEM is only a tad more expensive than Meteor so go OEM - Circa £85

And a reliable seller, generally 4-7 days delivery pre Corona V.

Try ADW, I am sure he would love to give you a part by part breakdown of all the tiny differences between the two machines but he has probably gone to bed 1mm on the piston and bore size is probably the main one. The Greek bloke on ebay has the pistons, has the bore been destroyed or can you reuse it? You could stick a 390XP top end on it!

Don't you start Just looked it up, looks like a McCulloch+g but is an Alpina model - http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/048ab6fd9706ab6f88256b4e004f067d?OpenDocument Some had breakers, the rest electronic ignition. Funny how the OP has pissed off in to the distance and we are still banging on about it. BTW...the McCulloch is quiet compared to the 066 with the expansion on it....now that is LOUD!

1-40.....

Nope, that was an old Husqvarna L65 with the muffler outlet facing downwards!!!

I know that, I refurbed my points on my 1-40 and timed it and think the flywheel was marked but it was a long time ago but I have had the bugger running and the whole village knew about it. As you say, pulling the flywheel isn't an easy job without the correct tools so a Nova unit or similar may be the way forward. Never got my 595 going, it fires but has a stupid amount of compression and weighs a ton, 15 pulls and you are through. Perhaps now is the time to get it going! 100cc of vintage muscle!

As someone else picked up, removing the flywheel to sort out a fuel system is a bit strange....in fact, removing the flywheel is not a common occurrence with ANY general maintenance and usually needs pullers and there is a high risk of damaging it. Flywheels are always keyed and never spin off from what I have ever come across so not sure what he is attempting to do...remove the flywheel because the breaker is behind it because he has no spark or is he calling the clutch a flywheel.....no idea. I have two vintage McCullochs and timed one so know it isn't for the uninitiated, I tried explaining the system to a 30 year old a while ago and after five minutes he said he lost me after the first 10 seconds....they aren't easy if that is what he is attempting to do and you need a multimeter or something similar and need to know how it all works....or is the breaker a little dirty.....who knows! I do get a bit arsy with people that have 1 post and then get a load of info then disappear without adding to this forum....no disrespect to the OP as I don't know if he was one of these but that one really annoys me. I also get arsy when people tell you they have ruled out some aspect of an issue and I can only see that it will be this and then a week later they find out I am correct - someone had a loose bar once and said they couldn't clamp it correctly on the machine but the distance between the side cover and the bar mount was less than the thickness of the bar.....that one really got me excited...you work it out. Anyway - I have helped hundreds if not thousands out with my "Whats on Your Bench" thread and those that have had the pleasure know my heart is in the right place, no harm intended......chill, all in a days work The abuse is free....so I tell my customers! Now...this chainsaw......what are you up to and if the advice helps.........

I guess he has no spark or is trying to time it....good luck for the uninitiated!

You can usually tell by the thread sticking out the end!

He probably means the clutch!

Flywheel??? Interference fit on a conical shaft!!!!