spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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That's different!
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Sounds like the oiler hole in the bar doesn't line up with the oiler channel. The bar should have a small separate oiler hole around 3mm from the edge of the bar and not oil through the larger chain tensioner holes like some do. Check the oiler hole, if present, to make sure it isn't blocked. Also, make sure the oil pump is turned up to max to see if this has an effect.
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Bugger the chain, what about the stress on the clutch side crank bearing, it is always the bearing or seal on this side that goes! Hopefully a day or twos use hasn't messed it up.
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All three saws now gone and all paid for, many thanks for the interest.
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From a maintenance side, you don't want the oil to absorb water or to dry when left for a long time. The results are not nice!
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Yes, no problem, looks to be a decent one, all original.
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Advice on opening an electric Husky topper T536 LiXP
spudulike replied to Mike F's topic in Maintenance help
Took one apart once, just like working on a hairdryer. It is funny but these electric saws have no soul whereas petrol ones seem to have a life, soul and character.....or is it just me? -
You couldn't make it up. The old adage is a fool and their money are easily parted and that just runs and runs!
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2007...bloody hell, just get on with it if it hasn't disintegrated in to rust by the time you get your arse in to gear.
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When my customers hear me say "I would bin your regular maintenance guy as he doesn't seem to be doing too much". What I am actually saying is "My oh my, this saw is * years old and it looks like it has never been cleaned, this is going to be fun What I am thinking is "I am semi retired and can do without this guy sending in worn out, abused, shitty, crap covered pieces of turd and how can I tell him this politely"!!!!!!
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Is this the truck load from a year or so ago If anything happens on the 357, I will let you know....not sure about that truckload though!!
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I am thinking Mendiplogs has moved to the US!
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You haven't lived until you have got a face full of linseed, dirt and woodchip straight in your face at 9 in the morning. I think I may chuck this in!
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Depends on too many variables. The state of the air filter will make a big difference as I have seen a few now with damaged filters take out the cylinder just through abrasive wood dust going in to the engine. I have seen 560s with 350 hrs in good state and ones with 95 hrs being wrecks. I think the average operators maintenance is to service the saw when it fails or blows up rather than something that is done regularly to improve the longevity and reliability of a tool for making a living with.
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Both the 346s are paid for and one already with the new owner. I have had an offer on the 357 and accepted, just need to meet and shake on the deal. Good to help out and thanks for the interest.
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No, he will ask you what the wood is to which you answer Lignum Vitae or some other exotic wood that he won't have a setting for!
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It was a lorry accident, he was driving a truck and it tipped over and that was it, game over. I don't know the exact circumstances, all I know was that he was a decent fella and am trying to help his wife get a fair market price for the saws that meant a lot to him. Sometimes people can be a bit economical with true market value when they sniff a bargain so am softening that for her. Going well so far, the "special one"(346XP ported) has gone out today, paid in full, The 346XPG is waiting on one member to clarify if he wants to proceed (got until 9.00 tonight) otherwise, I have PMed the 2nd in line. The 357XPG is possibly being sold to a local fella whom I think I know, just need a sensible price from him and a handshake.
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Had a fair bit of interest, just waiting on one fella for a final decision and if that falls through, another is in line and sounds like a local guy is interested in the 357, just need an offer from him. Looking good so far.
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14" on the 357 and it measures 12" on the 346 but may be a 13"!
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Many years ago, I ported a saw for a member called "Goaty" or Paul by his regular name. Unfortunately he died in a road accident a while ago and have since been in touch with his wife who wanted me to go through his saws to service them for future sale. I have cleaned and tested the saws, have sold the "special saw" a ported 346XP and now also have a clean 357XPG & 346XPG both with heated handles in good mechanical order for sale. Both are standard and ready to go so anyone interested, PM me with a suitable offer in the region of £300....and that is each I can send them out if needed but collection is also fine. Cheers
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On the stoves I have had experience to use, once the stove is burning well, you should be able to shut all the dampers to the point the flames are extinguished and the fire will go out if left in this state. It will get very hot directly after shutting the dampers as you are retaining all the heat within the stove but then the glass will get sooty and the fire will go out. So, with the pic you have put up, if that was my stove and I shut it down completely, the flames would go out in seconds and the fire would go from orange to deep red in a few minutes as you starve the combustion of air. The only thing lacking is my experience of your particular stove.
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I have tuned many a 365XPT and TBH, the L screw usually needs a little more anti clockwise to get that nice heavy thump having a slightly richer idle gives you. Without doing it, the saw always feels a little weak on the idle. You could take it to someone who knows what they are doing and get them to check the H&L settings. I usually set the H so the rev limiter and carb operate at pretty much the same time - it is usually a case of revving the knackers off it, turn the H screw anticlockwise until the saw doesn't bounce off the carb limiter and then turn slowly clockwise until it just starts to - I think this is round about 13krpm. Whomever does this will need the splined full circle (not D, Hex or Double D) adjustment tool. Perhaps the local Husky dealer?
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I think my brother had some once, king size rizla followed by a trip
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I am not sure what the changes were from the old model to new. I have seen variable idle and issues when the saw is hung vertically from the strop clip. The vertical issue can be particularly irritating as I haven't found any real route cause. New FULL carb kit including needle, spring and metering arm can help the wandering idle issue but be prepared to work at the H&L screws to get there. Start at the recommended factory settings then adapt them to your machine.
