spudulike

I would rather stick chilli covered angry wasps up the old posterior!!!

I have the exact same set, the pointer on the big black handle is a sprung loaded centre point, the round punches screw on to the handle, you place the point on the material you want to punch a hole in, you compress the centre point then belt the end of the handle with a mallet. They are for punching holes in leather, gasket, rubber etc. Useful in making gaskets or circular disks of rubber/leather for gaskets and rudimentary seals etc. I believe they may be RS Component ones.

Just one of the reasons I hate these bloody saws to work on!

From the symptoms it sounds like lack of fuel. You could try turning the L screw a 1/4 turn anticlockwise - that is if your carb has the L&H screws and isn't the single screw one. If this doesn't work, it could be a blocked gauze filter in the carb or dirty fuel filter. You don't say what age the saw is but if it is an old one, the fuel line could be split or the carb diaphragms may be past their best. The plug colour you have got just tells you that flat out, the saw is running as it should and not that everything else is OK which probably rules out a split fuel line.

L&S are pretty damn good, fast delivery and always tell you if there is a delay. Out of stock parts are generally fulfilled pretty fast.

Measure the compression, one pull should be circa 75psi and then around 170psi after 6 pulls. If it is considerably lower, there is wear. The first pull can be quite indicative of issues. 346XPs often feel low on the handle! If low, roughen the bore lightly with a hone and fit a new Meteor piston, it will last many more years.

The 50cc goes on the 45cc body, straight fit. Some will tell you the 50cc one needs the primer but I have done a couple and they work fine with no primer system as long as the machine is set up correctly.

I heard their was a lack of PPE and there is the proof.....make sure you don't drop it on your tootsies

The seeds are doing well, spring onions in, cucumbers, tomatoes (cherry and normal), chillies, lettuce, courgettes etc. Got some pretty weird seeds off ebay, Russian and Japanese tomatoes, God knows what they will be like but hopefully OK.

The results are more torque, aggressive in the cut, higher revs in the cut, shortens cutting speed, you can lean on the saw more with less bogging etc. Varies from saw to saw, there are always models that turn out better than others. Yes, there is a percentage that most accept as the maximum you can go on port size but it doesn't work like that if there are other constraints of the engine design that stops you going to the maximum size - you have to understand how two strokes work and how the piston works in conjunction with the port openings and crankcase. I have done a few saws with pop up pistons and turned down cylinder bases, they are an expensive option due to the machining so tend to keep it simple to keep costs acceptable....get 75% of the easier gains rather than spending days trying to get the last 25% for 3X the cost! The only book that makes good reading is by Gordon Jennings, it gives a few pointers but is mainly aimed at motorcycle porting although it gives a good overall look at the subject.

Yup, makes his £1000 target look a bit misjudged. Great attempt and hats off to the old fella....big cheer and hope it inspires others.

I almost wrote the same but the 261 has an inboard clutch so it will only wedge itself against the drum locking it up nicely!!! Never been there

Yes, there are guidelines as to how large ports can be made, restrictive elements that can limit port size, minimum clearances piston to squish etc. I learnt some by looking online, some from reading a couple of books that I purchased and some by just developing my own techniques. Just use a dremel with a carbide burr or diamond burrs for lighter work. You can't put metal back on once you have ground it off so don't just think "wider the better" as many seem to think.

I would try a Meteor piston, Hyway are my third choice with OEM, Meteor and then HYway being the options but I have a theory that Hyway do manufacture Meteor Cylinders, not sure if anyone else has noticed the similarities? What you say is correct about compression etc If that retaining pin has come out, check the cases and muffler for it as it will wreak carnage on your engine if it is still floating around.

Looks like what I would call teak but bear in mind I know very little about wood types bar the normal knowledge! As Stubby says.....Mr Devile

I think the lead coming out of its back makes it a "Corded" saw!!!

Yup, nice new Nilfisk in the garage, drive, patio and car nice and clean.....just another job to stop the cabin fever!

Your Air arms should be every bit as good as the BSA, I only pop the rats with mine but it is always good, accurate & powerful. I am guessing it is pumped up to the correct pressure? It may be something to do with the hammer spring or the valve that releases the pressure to fire the shot. Perhaps a bit of silicon lube....looks like you need to hang around the airgun forum, sure someone will be good at fixing them!

I haven't done mine yet, the filler connector leaked and replaced that but the rest seems OK for now. Do you know it has a fault? If it is leaking down, it may just need a new connector as mine did. They hold something like 2600psi in the gun! I have a S300 which is the forerunner of your rifle so must be fairly old.

I could and it is relatively easy on the PCP one but then it would be a firearm and the law is a bit heavy on that sort of thing so all mine are a fraction under 12FtLb. Not worth the risk!

I reckon the carb cleaner I use would work, it melts paint and some plastic so guess a few little bacteria would get fried by it.

I have done a Beech stock and a Walnut stock both on Air Arms rifles. I stripped the old varnish off with Nitromors, scrape off the gunge then clean the stock well - best done with the metal stripped off it wash all the residue off so it is very clean. You then have two options, Birchwood Casey True Oil or Liberon Finishing Oil. You can apply both oils with cloth or even your finger, both touch dry relatively fast and you just apply a few coats in the day, let it harden overnight and keep rubbing it down. If you apply a few coats, it stays satin and if you like high gloss, keep going and if you end up with too much gloss, take it back a little with fine steel wool and use a little wax over the top. I like the rub on Tung Oils as you don't get runs or brush marks plus it allows a gradual build up of coating until you get the finish you want. With Walnut, you need to seal it by sanding lightly with oil and sandpaper then rub the slurry in to the pores, Beech is fine without doing this.

Flippin heck, I gave you a big drum roll entrance expecting some flanged trunion pin being 0.001mm larger in diameter and that was it.....I feel dejected and let down

Just use cheap vodka, that will do the job at £10 a bottle! I guess you could mix it with hair gel to make up a similar product.

The OEM is only a tad more expensive than Meteor so go OEM - Circa £85