spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Part number - 1141 030 0400, looks like it is specific to the MS261 only. It is the cost (£165 ex VAT) plus the labour that kills any attempt to fix them. The work in splitting the bottom end of any saw is considerable and unless you are a good engineer, it will just not be economical to repair a mid cost saw like this.
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Exactly, all those very important meetings our politicians have that go nowhere and mean nothing, business meetings that could be done by video conferencing etc and what about all those visits to Lapland over Christmas by over privileged kids, that's another 50,000 litres there and back by each plane! -
Another easy target to make it look like something significant is being done. I think anyone taking a flight should be made to stay at their destination for a minimum of seven days. It would stop all these futile trips and using flights like busses. A plane will get through at least 20-30,000 litres per flight - that's a fair bit of pollution.
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Unlikely unless it was caused by something else but stand to be corrected A good option is to whip the side cover and bar off every two months and give it the wobble test, changing the bearing if it does wobble.....put your thumb and finger on opposite sides of the drum and try to wobble the thing. If it wobbles 3-5mm on the edge then it is well on its way. If you put a new drum and bearing on your saw, just remember how it feels - only works if the crank isn't damaged though. Also, if you put the chain brake on and the machine stalls...investigate the issue as the bearing has probably collapsed.
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What do you use to store logs by the fire?
spudulike replied to Rob_the_Sparky's topic in Firewood forum
I use a wicker cradle U shape basket, I have had it years, wasn't cheap but very sturdy. I used a piece of carpet (upside down Hessian up)to line it and it stops all the dust and bits falling through. Worth getting something made well as it will last a life time. -
I reckon Matty is missing living 3 miles from me, I think the record was a buggered 357XP being dropped off around 8.00PM and being up and running for the next mornings work. I sort of miss those days for the entertainment, piss taking and he always bunged me a tip.....always the sign of a gent!
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The Mtronic ones are always OK, It is the ones that had the conventional carb that were suspect. I have written off some tidy machines in the past through crank damage.
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Glad it worked out, sometimes simple and sometimes a mare!
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It is a Zama carb and only the early types had this auto decomp, the later cylinders had no union on them. I usually take it out, tap the hole and stick a bolt in it with Loctite although you can just stick a plugged cap over it.
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If a later decomp has been fitted, the union on the back of the cylinder transfer will have to be sealed or removed and plugged.
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Some of these saws are possessed. I believe the ones with the laser etched serial had their tanks purged with holy water driving out the evil saw spirit that resides in them.
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The Mtronic versions are OK. My theory is that the cranks in the early versions of the 261 were faulty and also reckon Stihl put out that it was a sprocket issue to avoid a huge warranty return....there's a conspiracy theory for you but am not in the position to know! I have had various 261s in and some were getting through a sprocket and bearing every six months using new OEM sprocket and bearings. I have seen MS200s and 026s on original drum bearings so what happened??? Greasing the bearing - the grease will fly out in the first few minutes use. The metal caged needle bearings last longer as the needles stay in place longer but even these grenade after a while. Not sure how you measured the crank but you should take three readings using vernier callipers at points nearest the clutch, th emiddle of where the bearing sits and the bit closest to where the circlip sits. You can also look for pitting of the crank surface, any of this and your crank is shot.
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That is a loaded question, ask me and I will say relatively easy as I have been there before, ask someone with no idea and you will get a different answer. Getting the spring back on is probably the most challenging issue and can be....fun. It is possible that one of the dowel mounts has failed but it may just need a bit of lube and a clean, It is also possible the handle guard latching parts have worn and you need a new one. The test I do is to push the brake on from the far left, middle and far right of the handle guard. The brake should snap on with similar effort used in all three places. Often the brake will fail on the side nearest the starter cover. The brake should also sound crisp and not come on with a dull thump.
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They came in Walbro and Zama flavours, the Walbro suffers with accelerator pump issues, the Zama was the solution to the issue.
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Try the Echo ones, they may just work!!
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Blimey Matt, have you aged, I thought if it didn't work, you shouldn't stand underneath as the tool was likely to be thrown out of the tree I won't say anymore...HS86...damn...sorry!!!
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Bite the bullet and if you like the saw that much, either rebuild it or buy another one in better condition!
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We all look like that deep down
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The drum looks a little past it but not enough to give any jumping of the chain or any other issues. The clutch springs look OK as does the friction part of the clutch shoe. Now that is a bit strange from the description of revving in the cut but the chain not spinning and would have expected bluing of the metal if the clutch was actually slipping. Back to the drawing board Perhaps time for a vid!
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Yup, de-stress those bearings or they will fry!
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Damn, that's spoilt the fun, can't we try Husqvarna settings next OK, I will shut up now
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Just had a first, after having a number of complaints from local delivery drivers about poorly packaged parcels smelling of petrol, a customer tried to send a saw to me and got it back for just these reasons. TBH, I am looking at a lighter workload especially during the summer months so the only people that will suffer are...........
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Good point GK
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Mmmm, er we go again. It is worth checking the piston as per the earlier post. One thin rattling round my head, the "NEW" coil, was it OEM Stihl as the aftermarket ones can be pretty suspect. The other thing is that this coil, was it gapped to the flywheel correctly as I had a MS460 with a similar problem, it would die after 5 minutes and it was traced back to a too large flywheel to coil gap and every time the coil got warm after a bit of use, the spark would fail. You can check the spark by taking an old plug and bending the end electrode out at 45 degrees or breaking it off then seeing if the coil will generate enough of a spark to jump the gap when held against the cylinder. Do check the gap though!!!
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I have a C Scope 4Pi for wet sand, it won't discriminate but it doesn't wander all over the shop or detect false positives when on wet sand. The Whites I have is the Classic SL, good thing about it is that some US fella by the name of "Mr Bill" came up with a modification and it works pretty well. I did the Mr.Bill mod!!!!! - Friendly Metal Detecting Forums METALDETECTINGFORUM.COM I did the Mr.Bill mod!!!!! Make It or Fix It Yourself It is a good idea to learn to set up the detector correctly, it is just another tool and the set up of the thresholds, keeping the head flat to the ground and swinging in a good arc are important to making it all come together. Minecraft are pretty pricy and the kit is only as good as the operator.
