spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Going back to the dodgy port, remove the cylinder, get a carbide burr on the flash and open it up so the port matches the shape of the main cast port shape. DO check that there are no ring ends near the port BEFORE you grind and also check that the piston skirt will cover the port completely on its full travel up and down. Bevel the port edges after grinding so the ring doesn't snag and then rebuild. -
I have done a Mk2 550XP a week ago.
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At least they didn't get your 372!! Little feckers!
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I picked up a bit from Arboristsite, a couple of two stroke tuning books and worked out the rest for myself. As I run a business and do porting, there is a limit to what I will publish whilst I am still running this business as some of the things I do have not been published anywhere on the net so like to keep them private. As far as muffler mods go, you need to think about what the gasses need to do, where they go and what the muffler needs to do. Back pressure is damn important to expansion chambers and infinitely less so in conventional chainsaw mufflers so you don't need to get hung up on it. Just study the port openings, how large they can be and the constraints of what you are working with ie ring ends and skirt widths. It isn't rocket science but it is a dark art!
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I have ported a few 026/MS260s, the last one went out to Sweden and it actually impressed me. It was a very pristine example but it had some balls once I had done some work on it. Don't knock the old machines, ones in good condition still work well, the AVs and weight may be a little better on modern saws but the MS260 is quite a tidy machine, personally I prefer the 346XP but as I said, the one I did had some real grunt and impressed me.
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Glad you are happy with it, always good to get the feedback....cheers.
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That last description is correct for the strato type engine. It basically sticks a lump of clean air in front of the next charge of fuel air in the transfers so when the burnt exhaust needs to be pushed out of the exhaust port it is with clean air rather than fuel/air some of which would have escaped out of the exhaust so this makes the strato system a cleaner engine.
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Your port in the picture - The yellow marks your current exhaust port and it has not been formed correctly. The red marks the area that needs to be bored out - don't forget to bevel the port. The cylinders will be cast, machined, plated and then the ports bevelled, I have seen ports like this before and usually just open them up to match the intended shape unless it is to be ported. You speak about widening ports but haven't mentioned the constraints of the size of bore, ring ends, skirt width, bevelling etc and suggest you understand a bit more before grinding out metal as I have never found a way of sticking the filings back once they hit the bench.
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That isn't good, looks like either a ring has failed, a foreign body has entered the carb or the big end has failed which is the most likely. When the big end cage cracks and breaks up, it flicks bits of white metal through the engine causing this sort of damage. That damage has bruised those ports, the lower "Transfer" is in fact the strato clean air port, the two top ones are transfers. Personally I would scrap this one, the previous one looked much sweeter.
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Try getting a big screwdriver under the front cover between the two removed front bolts, use the top edge of the oil tank as a fulcrum.....that's a pivot point! and try to lever the muffler off. It is only rust and perhaps an old gasket holding it in place!
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I have done a couple with the laser etched serial numbers and they seem a bit more stable than the early ones. I always said it was like Echo designed the saw, had a warehouse full of carbs and said...."lets use these up, they should do".....and they are a bit sensitive to adjustment.
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It maybe the mesh that is orange, noticed that a while ago!
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When I was in gainful employment, we got ours done by Pirtek, can't say if they were good bad or indifferent but guess our maintenance guys used them for a reason!
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Yup, I have ordered a few bits from Skylands, no issues from them!
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Old fuel oil mix, straight petrol, incorrect adjusted carb, air leak, carb issue etc... That's about it. Just tach it so it is 500 -1000rpm below maximum and all should be fine.
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I had a 151 in recently, the owner thought is was a bag of poo, it only livened up with the normal Spud recipe which resolved the issues. I tried it before modding and was totally unimpressed as well, afterwards it was like any modded 150 but it was new with one tank through as the owner refused to use it as he owns one of my modified 150s Matt will know who it was.....and it wasn't him!
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In life there are technicians, blacksmiths and rednecks. I can't charge people to drill holes like that and call it a business so use methods that are engineered, calculated, look nice and work without burning your leg or the saws plastics. My muffler mods won't deafen the operator but do what they need to, increase the flow without being stupidly loud. The end result may be similar but it just depends on what the saws owner is looking for.
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The Greek bloke is fine and the piston should arrive in 5-7 days. On honing, you can use a 2 or 3 stone hone on a light setting and give it a whizz up and down the bore. Don't use it for minutes on high speed but just long enough to leave the bore a little rough and brighter from the surface being abraded.
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Caber rings on Meteor pistons, some of the best and they are fitted on many OEM pistons so manufactured correctly. Never had issues with them and fitted hundreds of them. It may be someone did chock up the piston through the exhaust port and cocked up the old cylinder. Seen it before, screwdriver through the port to knock the clutch off - a bit blacksmith and bruises the port and piston! Remember the engine doesn't need things to "look" nice, it needs basics like compression and correct timing of exhaust, inlet, blow down etc. I did a wreck of a 560 once, heavily ported it after one of the stuffers grenaded and took the top end out. I reworked all the damaged ports and smoothed all bruised metal, the bore above the exhaust port was good and it ran for years!
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I would always remove the muffler to mod it, only ever done one attached to the machine (MS200T) and I started it when drilling to ensure all the swarf got blown out. I rarely use a drill on mufflers now and try to get the flow of exhaust away from plastics and more in line with the manufacturers intended direction.
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The piston looks like it has got too hot for some reason, the cylinder looks OK to me as far as I can see, I don't like the look of the intake side of the piston and would give that a close inspection to ensure it isn't cracked and would think the engine has either ingested a lump of something solid or someone has been chocking up the piston using the inlet port but is less likely as the inlet port looks clean. My only worry would be the piston skirt is cracked on that inlet side but if that is OK, it should all be fine.
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I flush and drain more tanks than most due to the nature of my business with a lot being via courier. I have never seen anything like that before. Plenty of chip, fine sawdust, black residue but never crystals like that. Ethanol is an alcohol so will just evaporate, it can absorb water which does the carb damage and is possible that the water has formed, dried and created crystals but a bit unlikely. Probably the best bet is to flush with hot water (assuming that crystal is water soluble) after removing the fuel filter and plugging the end. That should dissolve the crystals then just flush with old fuel.
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That exhaust port looks like it hasn't been machined correctly to me!
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No, the Irishman was a time traveller stuck in the time continuum and his motorbike was his Tardis!
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What accounts package are you using?
spudulike replied to Jamie Jones's topic in Business Management
My wife revolutionised my business as well, just got to get her cleaning the crappy saws now!
