spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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It maybe the mesh that is orange, noticed that a while ago!
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When I was in gainful employment, we got ours done by Pirtek, can't say if they were good bad or indifferent but guess our maintenance guys used them for a reason!
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Yup, I have ordered a few bits from Skylands, no issues from them! -
Old fuel oil mix, straight petrol, incorrect adjusted carb, air leak, carb issue etc... That's about it. Just tach it so it is 500 -1000rpm below maximum and all should be fine.
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I had a 151 in recently, the owner thought is was a bag of poo, it only livened up with the normal Spud recipe which resolved the issues. I tried it before modding and was totally unimpressed as well, afterwards it was like any modded 150 but it was new with one tank through as the owner refused to use it as he owns one of my modified 150s Matt will know who it was.....and it wasn't him!
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In life there are technicians, blacksmiths and rednecks. I can't charge people to drill holes like that and call it a business so use methods that are engineered, calculated, look nice and work without burning your leg or the saws plastics. My muffler mods won't deafen the operator but do what they need to, increase the flow without being stupidly loud. The end result may be similar but it just depends on what the saws owner is looking for.
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The Greek bloke is fine and the piston should arrive in 5-7 days. On honing, you can use a 2 or 3 stone hone on a light setting and give it a whizz up and down the bore. Don't use it for minutes on high speed but just long enough to leave the bore a little rough and brighter from the surface being abraded.
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Caber rings on Meteor pistons, some of the best and they are fitted on many OEM pistons so manufactured correctly. Never had issues with them and fitted hundreds of them. It may be someone did chock up the piston through the exhaust port and cocked up the old cylinder. Seen it before, screwdriver through the port to knock the clutch off - a bit blacksmith and bruises the port and piston! Remember the engine doesn't need things to "look" nice, it needs basics like compression and correct timing of exhaust, inlet, blow down etc. I did a wreck of a 560 once, heavily ported it after one of the stuffers grenaded and took the top end out. I reworked all the damaged ports and smoothed all bruised metal, the bore above the exhaust port was good and it ran for years!
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I would always remove the muffler to mod it, only ever done one attached to the machine (MS200T) and I started it when drilling to ensure all the swarf got blown out. I rarely use a drill on mufflers now and try to get the flow of exhaust away from plastics and more in line with the manufacturers intended direction.
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The piston looks like it has got too hot for some reason, the cylinder looks OK to me as far as I can see, I don't like the look of the intake side of the piston and would give that a close inspection to ensure it isn't cracked and would think the engine has either ingested a lump of something solid or someone has been chocking up the piston using the inlet port but is less likely as the inlet port looks clean. My only worry would be the piston skirt is cracked on that inlet side but if that is OK, it should all be fine.
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I flush and drain more tanks than most due to the nature of my business with a lot being via courier. I have never seen anything like that before. Plenty of chip, fine sawdust, black residue but never crystals like that. Ethanol is an alcohol so will just evaporate, it can absorb water which does the carb damage and is possible that the water has formed, dried and created crystals but a bit unlikely. Probably the best bet is to flush with hot water (assuming that crystal is water soluble) after removing the fuel filter and plugging the end. That should dissolve the crystals then just flush with old fuel.
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That exhaust port looks like it hasn't been machined correctly to me!
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No, the Irishman was a time traveller stuck in the time continuum and his motorbike was his Tardis!
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What accounts package are you using?
spudulike replied to Jamie Jones's topic in Business Management
My wife revolutionised my business as well, just got to get her cleaning the crappy saws now! -
For a change, a brand new 550XP and 365XP plus another very clean 365XP. Makes a nice change!
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Beer Fingers....bit early even by my standards
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When I get a 395 in I will do my patent method of getting the timing right and send you a pic along with the method of getting there. Just getting a shed load of 365XP Xtorqs in at the moment for conversion...and a brand new MK2 550XP.
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Well shiver me timbers, is this an anagram, a euphemism or some sort of cryptic clue
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What accounts package are you using?
spudulike replied to Jamie Jones's topic in Business Management
I use my wife, she is temperamental, complains all the time, likes a slap up feed/drink so isn't cheap but she does like giving the customers abuse for non payment so it all works just fine. -
Something like......
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You only de-stress the main bearings if the cases have been split. You just tap both sides of the crank with a copper mallet until the crank is smooooth and doesn't feel tight. Very strange!
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That's a strange one then....fuel line and fuel filter? I have had saws not make top revs and it is either too much fuel, too little fuel or engine wear although a faulty coil/spark can do it if you are loosing spark when flat out. My suggestion is to make sure all the fuel system parts are checked and then whip the cylinder off. Has anybody rebuilt the bottom end recently and not de-stressed the bearings? Is the saw easy to pull over with the plug out? How is the saw cutting, lifeless or full of go? Any history on the saw and what others may have done to it? Is the carb being held fully open by the throttle? These throttles do wear a fair bit on the plastic bit! I usually just pull it back a bit so it is a bit longer.
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Sounds like lack of fuel, most likely cause is a blocked gauze filter in the carb, it may be a sticky or too low metering arm/needle valve as a second suggestion or beyond that, a dodgy solenoid but this usually lets the saw rev but will constantly die on idle.
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The check valve is where the high speed fuel mix enters the carb throat. It is a valve that lets the venturi effect of the air ripping through the carb pull fuel through from the metering section but then seals in the opposite direction allowing the low speed circuit to control the mix at low revs when the throttle is closed. If this is stuck closed, you will fail to get high revs or power, if it is stuck open, idle will be non existent and the high speed will be very rich.
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You can see the light bouncing off it in the last pic so it is definitely still in place.
