spudulike

The autotune can't be manipulated or changed by the dealer. You can reset the AT by running the saw hard and continuously for around 5 mins but that is about it. Aspen needs a bit of extra fuel on the low speed setting which is something a normal carb can be adjusted for but the AT kit can't be changed in the same way but would have thought it shouldn't be excessively bad running on Aspen.

Trouble is that I have done that on well running machines and it still stops them as the spray lowers the temperature in the manifold and affects the vapour causing the engine to stall. Not been a good test for me.

If moving a saw around makes the saw rev then it is most likely a split inlet manifold where the split is opening up when the saw is moved letting in more air. The carb is most likely set where you have shut off its low speed fuelling and are using the high speed circuit and the air leak to somehow compensate.....badly. Simple test is to get the saw idling as stable as you can then move the engine around whilst holding the fuel tank flat to the ground. If the revs significantly increase, expect a split manifold or possibly an impulse line. The saw is a bit of a mare to work on so good luck with that.

The clutch drum will always have a fair bit of float on it, you have to hold it against the clutch and move the whole assembly in and out showing if you have loose engine mounts. Other than this, check the mounting bolts themselves. Have you checked them yet?

Mmmm, had a few family things going on that were of major concern but now pretty much sorted, backed off work a bit during the summer and am looking at keeping work at a manageable level from now on rather than taking on everything that comes in. You have to keep the work life balance in perfect balance when you get to this time of life. Winter months are easy enough but summer is summer and holiday is holiday!

Nope, nobody has posted on it.....that's all. No conspiracy, just that the thread hasn't been used!

I was surprised this week, twice to be honest. I was sorting a bogging issue on a 260 I ported a while ago and it really pulled, a lot of pressure on the bar and it....pulled some more - well impressive. The 2nd time - a 560 I ported with a similar bogging issue which I think is a kinked fuel line when leaned on hard, full bore in a large lump of wood and the same, just kept pulling even though I was leaning excessively on it noodling hard. I rarely get to try my work out, I just mod them but they were pretty damn good tbh!

Always liked this Jeff Beck number, makes his guitar sing from around 3.40 onwards, interesting song - supreme guitarist IMO....

Worth checking the tightness of the engine mounts as I have seen plenty of in and out play on the clutch (not drum end float) that may cause such an issue and is a common issue on older saws. Just clamp the drum against the back of the clutch with finger and thumb then push the clutch in and out to see if the whole assembly moves in and out a bit. An intermittent kill switch will be a sign of loose engine mount bolts.

If the AVs are iffy then you may have pulled the impulse line (rubber pipe) from its connector just below the base of the cylinder between the cylinder and the back of the air filter box. It can happen on the MS460, 461, 361 260 etc - all of similar design. Normally a saw would start with the line off but it would give very poor running. You can try to start the machine and then strip the carb being carefully to lift the covers off one at a time vertically so you can see where the petrol is sitting - it will give you an idea of where the fuel isn't flowing and what the issue is!

Sounds like fuel starvation - one thing you could do is to remove the carb with a bit of fuel in the tank and see if fuel pisses out of the fuel line. If it doesn't, remove the fuel cap and push it back on and see if fuel comes out of the fuel line. It should and if it doesn't, you may have a split fuel line or dodgy filter. If it does - you probably haven't cleaned the carb properly - make sure the gauze strainer is removed, inspected with a magnifying glass and cleaned if necessary. Make sure the needle valve is opening and shutting properly and all the gaskets are in the right order - the thin plastic pump diaphragm sits next to the carb body (not cover) and the metering diaphragm has a spacer gasket between the body and the diaphragm. You can attach the fuel line and push the metering arm down and fuel should naturally come out from the slight pressure in the tank. Make sure the metering diaphragm isn't hard and make sure the metering arm is level with the body of the carb where the spacer diaphragm sits - use a ruler across the body to do this. Also, make sure the low speed adjuster is out as far as the limiters allow or 1.5 turn from fully in if no limiters are fitted. You could also have an impulse line that's come off, a massive crankcase air leak or issues with the plug, coil gap or coil, all can do this as can low compression! One last thing, make sure the throttle is being held open a bit on half choke - seen this fail and give this symptom before - it will fire if you hold the throttle open and pull it over hard.

The Stihl spec is to re-grease every 25hrs, not sure too many actually do this and the next step is to work out that a set of gears is ££££££££

Some nice person has replied to your PM

Sounds like the gauze strainer in the carb may be plugged with a bit of wood chip or fine dirt. The carb will need to be stripped, the gauze strainer removed, cleaned and replaced. It may be something else as you say the saw rarely starts on the choke so worth popping of the muffler and looking at the piston through the exhaust port. Any sign of vertical scoring and the piston may have seized.

Yup, times the invoice by 1.5

It never ceases to amaze me the state of some of the kit I get in. I normally tell the owner to bin their regular service agent as he isn't doing much only to be told the saw hasn't been looked at in 5 years. The other retort is "your compressor isn't working" it normally gets the comment "is it expensive" and I tell them, no, around £100 gets you a good one, Aldi have them on offer and then they realise I am taking the piss about the amount of shyte under the covers of their saw. Would you leave your car 5 years without service or washing it?????

You pay for a years warranty in the price of the saw and it sounds like you need it. It may be the fuel solenoid but it may also be faulty manufacture and if you sod with it, it will be invalidated. Get it sent back!

Yup....Fake News

Sorry, that is incorrect - My source - Ownership structure | Husqvarna Group WWW.HUSQVARNAGROUP.COM Electrolux sold the company many years ago and are now owned by various shareholders as per the link!

Yes, clutch side, just like seeing if you lot are following or not

Sawchip has some very valid advice which is very relevant to this model of saw. They often have issues with the manifold and carb side crank seal which can lead to over revving, fast and unstable idle and poor running leading to a seize. If the saw was working and then fitting the carb kit stopped it working, the fitting of the kit has been done incorrectly. Also, I would look at the clutch drum and bearing for play as I have had a write a few of these machines off for crank wear where the owner has scant disregard to general and regular maintenance. They are not weak but they do need a bit of regular maintenance before issues are seen.

And it is spelt carburettor!

Think ADW is correct and for the record, the impulse line fits between a union on the manifold clamp and connects to the plastic surround the carb screws in to and is cock all to do with the fuel line. Normal errors are metering arm spring fitted incorrectly and gaskets fitted in the incorrect order. You can pressure check the carb to check the metering arm operation but suspect you don't have a pop off gauge or mityvac type pump.

Depends what "Long Reach" actually means but am guessing a Kombi type system. Most of my local contractors use KM56s as bring cheap and relatively reliable. Most have 2 or 3 which always means they are covered on breakdowns if they happen.

I have recently found some stuff called Milliput, it is totally weird in that it is like a two part epoxy but it can be smoothed with water. Looking at your crack....so to speak I would degrease both sides of the crack (just remove the oil cap to access the inside), and then push the filler from the inside and outside leaving a thicker coating on the inside. The oil tank gets a bit of heat but not much pressure so either Milliput or JB should be fine. Welding - likely to make it look pretty nasty and be a right old ball ache I think. I would take the easier option first - at least it is the top of the tank!