spudulike

I haven't done mine yet, the filler connector leaked and replaced that but the rest seems OK for now. Do you know it has a fault? If it is leaking down, it may just need a new connector as mine did. They hold something like 2600psi in the gun! I have a S300 which is the forerunner of your rifle so must be fairly old.

I could and it is relatively easy on the PCP one but then it would be a firearm and the law is a bit heavy on that sort of thing so all mine are a fraction under 12FtLb. Not worth the risk!

I reckon the carb cleaner I use would work, it melts paint and some plastic so guess a few little bacteria would get fried by it.

I have done a Beech stock and a Walnut stock both on Air Arms rifles. I stripped the old varnish off with Nitromors, scrape off the gunge then clean the stock well - best done with the metal stripped off it wash all the residue off so it is very clean. You then have two options, Birchwood Casey True Oil or Liberon Finishing Oil. You can apply both oils with cloth or even your finger, both touch dry relatively fast and you just apply a few coats in the day, let it harden overnight and keep rubbing it down. If you apply a few coats, it stays satin and if you like high gloss, keep going and if you end up with too much gloss, take it back a little with fine steel wool and use a little wax over the top. I like the rub on Tung Oils as you don't get runs or brush marks plus it allows a gradual build up of coating until you get the finish you want. With Walnut, you need to seal it by sanding lightly with oil and sandpaper then rub the slurry in to the pores, Beech is fine without doing this.

Flippin heck, I gave you a big drum roll entrance expecting some flanged trunion pin being 0.001mm larger in diameter and that was it.....I feel dejected and let down

Just use cheap vodka, that will do the job at £10 a bottle! I guess you could mix it with hair gel to make up a similar product.

The OEM is only a tad more expensive than Meteor so go OEM - Circa £85

And a reliable seller, generally 4-7 days delivery pre Corona V.

Try ADW, I am sure he would love to give you a part by part breakdown of all the tiny differences between the two machines but he has probably gone to bed 1mm on the piston and bore size is probably the main one. The Greek bloke on ebay has the pistons, has the bore been destroyed or can you reuse it? You could stick a 390XP top end on it!

Don't you start Just looked it up, looks like a McCulloch+g but is an Alpina model - http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/048ab6fd9706ab6f88256b4e004f067d?OpenDocument Some had breakers, the rest electronic ignition. Funny how the OP has pissed off in to the distance and we are still banging on about it. BTW...the McCulloch is quiet compared to the 066 with the expansion on it....now that is LOUD!

1-40.....

Nope, that was an old Husqvarna L65 with the muffler outlet facing downwards!!!

I know that, I refurbed my points on my 1-40 and timed it and think the flywheel was marked but it was a long time ago but I have had the bugger running and the whole village knew about it. As you say, pulling the flywheel isn't an easy job without the correct tools so a Nova unit or similar may be the way forward. Never got my 595 going, it fires but has a stupid amount of compression and weighs a ton, 15 pulls and you are through. Perhaps now is the time to get it going! 100cc of vintage muscle!

As someone else picked up, removing the flywheel to sort out a fuel system is a bit strange....in fact, removing the flywheel is not a common occurrence with ANY general maintenance and usually needs pullers and there is a high risk of damaging it. Flywheels are always keyed and never spin off from what I have ever come across so not sure what he is attempting to do...remove the flywheel because the breaker is behind it because he has no spark or is he calling the clutch a flywheel.....no idea. I have two vintage McCullochs and timed one so know it isn't for the uninitiated, I tried explaining the system to a 30 year old a while ago and after five minutes he said he lost me after the first 10 seconds....they aren't easy if that is what he is attempting to do and you need a multimeter or something similar and need to know how it all works....or is the breaker a little dirty.....who knows! I do get a bit arsy with people that have 1 post and then get a load of info then disappear without adding to this forum....no disrespect to the OP as I don't know if he was one of these but that one really annoys me. I also get arsy when people tell you they have ruled out some aspect of an issue and I can only see that it will be this and then a week later they find out I am correct - someone had a loose bar once and said they couldn't clamp it correctly on the machine but the distance between the side cover and the bar mount was less than the thickness of the bar.....that one really got me excited...you work it out. Anyway - I have helped hundreds if not thousands out with my "Whats on Your Bench" thread and those that have had the pleasure know my heart is in the right place, no harm intended......chill, all in a days work The abuse is free....so I tell my customers! Now...this chainsaw......what are you up to and if the advice helps.........

I guess he has no spark or is trying to time it....good luck for the uninitiated!

You can usually tell by the thread sticking out the end!

He probably means the clutch!

Flywheel??? Interference fit on a conical shaft!!!!

If the rest is in fine fettle or at least salvageable then yes, it is worth saving. Fortunately, these saws use big roller bearings so the cases split relatively easily compared to most, assuming you remove all the screws! You should be able to pick up a case relatively easily, not sure if the cases not being a matched pair is an issue but the crank and bearings are quite live in these saws so I would try to rebuild it if it was mine.......and faced with 6 weeks at home doing sweet FA courtesy of the Chinese!

Hang on, there is only one Spud

Damn...thanks to Mr Stubby, I now have a kit of bits and will assemble them in to what I hope will be a playable guitar. The body is light, the neck is surprising - two way truss rod, the frets look well set and level plus looks well finished but as all necks.....will do my own setup. All the metal parts are typical cheapo but should work OK once done. If it plays OK and it is worth it, I will swap out the less good parts in time but should pass some time away during these desperate times.

I would have thought the saw would be wearing 3/8th Picco Low Pro chain so 1.3mm gauge. Some may fit the 1.6mm 3/8 full profile but it would be a bit heavy for the saw and sap power.

I have only ever changed one MS200T coils for going faulty and that was DEAD. Two of the most common faults are: - 1) The black kill wire coming from the coil is earthing out and this can happen where it bends off the spade connector and disappears under the coil - it touches the metal case just above the bottom AV mount. The wire can also get pinched under the coil location pillars and generally happens when the coil has been removed. I did have one where the owner fitted an extra long top front AV screw which rubbed through the wire outer and earthed out when the AV was compressed. I agree with Wonky on trying to disconnect the black wire from the coil......surprised he didn't mention old fuel but there you go 2) The HT lead can play up, typically where it is clamped by the oil pump or within the HT plug cap when the spur comes off the lead. One Heath Robinson check is to get an old plug and bend the end electrode out or remove it and see if the spark will jump the gap, if it does, it is less likely the coil and HT lead are faulty plus any sparking from the HT lead will be visible in subdued light. Other than that, the gap between coil and flywheel should be set with a plastic setting card or use a typical business card, if it is too large a gap, it can play up. The other is that many miss the spark when tested and believe that the spark isn't there when it is in fact, working as it should - an old plug with the end electrode bent out at 45 degrees makes a good tester. These coils tend to be pretty reliable and rarely fail. If the gap has been set far too tight and the coil has clouted the flywheel for a long period, it is possible to lose the magnets on the coil but have only seen this once on a MS461, never on this model.

You can use a smear of liquid gasket to sort that out but have seen screwdriver damage around the end of the manifolds where the uninitiated lever the manifold out of the back of the air box and slip. Easy to miss if you plug the manifold to seal it. ....the joys

Grasshopper, you have been a good student