spudulike

Bummer, I know a number of customers that won't like that!

Yes and the aluminium drive shaft.

Stihl HT131....bloody weird internals but they are a pretty useful tool. Each time I get them in I give them a thorough testing trimming all the stuff in the garden! They are a telescopic pole saw but some....I know I know, use them with trimming heads - it can cause issues but does open up a wealth of tall soft wood trimming on tall hedges.

And that is the point, I fix them for a years use + and I don't want or need the extra work. Imagine you spent a day doing a superb reduction and then a week later you saw a couple of ijuts cutting the tree down, apart from you being paid for your work, it would be pretty demoralising and that is how I feel sometimes when I get saws singing, nice and clean etc then a few weeks later...trashed. Generally it isn't like that and is more people asking for their saws to be ported and then they add that the saw hasn't run since it was seized two years ago....REALLY! Sometimes it is like a black comedy with saws being more suited to a skip than a rebuild and port. I guess I know the effects of a blocked air filter - not naming the guy in France that sent me a saw that wouldn't rev when hot that all I did was clean the air filter! Not sure what is worse, not doing any maintenance or someone doing it and not knowing what they are doing...seen some horror stories in my time! I recently started asking when the saw was last serviced....now that is relatively amusing!!

If it idles but dies when you open the throttle then it will be fuel starvation. Change the fuel filter and while you are in there, check the state of the fuel line - if it looks OK and isn't hard or cracked, try that but I think it is mpre than likely that your carb gauze strainer has fine wood chip in it or a fine scum dried on it. Pull the carb off, take off the alloy cover held on by one large screw, prize the strainer out (sharp craft knife), look through it with a magnifying glass and if blocked, carb cleaner and compressor to clean it. Reinsert, reassemble and retune carb. See how that goes!

Probably a bit of fine woodchip plugged on the pickup side, just blast compressed air or carb cleaner/WD40 on the exit side and it should clear - may have to rotate the gear shaft to get the flat inline with the outlet and inlet holes. Winkling it out with a pin may help breaking it up if it isn't an angled union. Other than that, withdraw the drive gear and blast it through. That is how most stop working if it isn't pinion related.

Kenneth Williams, fast, clever and cutting......always funny - not quite so camp myself but like the humour!

Yup, I think a few need to learn manners and give thanks for any help offered and then feedback if the info helped or not. Recently all the old members on here are discussing an issue well after the OP has pissed off in to the distance!

Go on, name and shame....that will teach them I am not sure what people get taught but some can't even adjust an idle let alone tell if a sprocket is worn or not. Bet most don't even know what those lines on the Oregon Powermatch Rims actually are!

Is it me or is the site rife with first posters asking for help and then disappearing in to the distance...perhaps they start the job and then got Covid 19 or perhaps as Elton DIDNT say...Thanks seems to be the hardest word! It is beginning to grate a bit - not how I was brought up!

TBH, I don't know but I do know the clutch drum is completely different. The 020T and mS200T are completely interchangeable but the 020AV is nothing like them and suspect none of the parts will fit - I don't have one now, flogged it for £60 to a kid that loved it!

All you need to do is say where you are in the country and someone may see it, see it is for sale, make you an offer and....well....you may SELL it £70.....bargain!

I usually find sarcasm is quite effective. I said to one customer that the issue with his saw was the lack of a compressor, He totally missed the joke and said which part of the saw was a "compressor".......made me chuckle! On the other hand - one customer sent three saws in, I gave him the usual....you can grow spuds on those saws, he sent me a pic of his new compressor and every machine thereafter was nice and clean...Mr Harrison, you are a gent

Dynamite and ear muffs

3 parts, lump of rubber with a metal plate either end, one with a female threaded hole, the other with a male threaded stud on it.

Flat out for short periods, don't leave it idling for long periods, keep the heat down so no long flat out runs. Theory - piston and bore are rough to begin with, this will cause more heat to be generated whilst running in hence short periods of flat out. These rough surfaces allow the piston and ring to form the same shape of the bore but you have limited time as the rough surfaces will smooth out relatively quickly so you use it flat out for short periods allowing for the parts to bed in quickly. This will give the saw more compression and therefore, more torque/power.

Some on older machines I have had in have sort of melted or the outside has got sticky looking. They haven't melted completely, more of a bit of reaction between the rubber and the oil. Don't try the Chinese ones, they are utter shyte!

Husqvarna only list 0.325 on the 550 and 346. I know you CAN convert the saws, it doesn't mean it is a good idea. I reckon the 346 will be a bit harsh to use on a 3/8th personally. There is only one type of oiler for the 346 and 550. The 357XP had two types of oiler pinion, never worked out why and can only think the pinions design was changed for the different rim diameters as you can just swap the rim types on the same drum so will run on the same pinion. Perhaps ADW can give a potted history

Low compression or main bearings. Owners don't look after the filters, stone dust is incredibly abrasive and this destroys pistons, cylinders and bearings. Check the compression, you need 150+ and check the main crank bearings for play.

Pretty much what I hear from a lot of customers, I tend to do favours for regular local customers, it is the way it works isn't it? 6 months, that's really bad, three months round here which is a bit of a lifetime as my locals get 2-4 days if parts aren't needed or 2 weeks if by courier, getting stuff back the next day can happen if not too loaded at the time. Most are shit scared I will dump them if they don't pay PDQ so are pretty prompt - ebb and flow of business, it works well in my books.

The 372XP is Walbro so about double the size! Sorry to piss on the fireworks - nice offer though!

It probably wasn't hooked on before as it has forced the metering arm down. You just apply a light pressure in the middle of the diaphragm and slide it on to the metering arm and the outer location pegs at the same time. Relatively simple but important otherwise it will flood like that other fellas 026 that wasn't a carb issue!!

That would explain the low compression then. The suck on the inlet manifold won't be much as it is caused by the piston going up in to the bore producing what is known as Primary Compression in the crankcase and sucks fuel mix and air in to the crankcase. A big air leak may stop fuel being pulled in. Is the plug wet after 10-15 pulls with choke on?

Looks like a TIllotson, level with the bottom of the bowl, NOT the outer carb body. The gauze strainer should be a smaller one than most other saws with Walbro or Zama carbs, never really got that one as they are fitted to some of the larger saws. Check the dimple in the middle of the diaphragm as if it is notched, it needs to hook on to the metering arm. If solid, it just rests on it as normal.

And still no news from the OP..........think he may have sorted it and done the normal fecking off in to the distance......Nice McCulloch Wes....always good to fire up when the neighbours have a garden party