spudulike

The saw is new and should therefore not have anything too much wrong with it. It is possible all that has happened is that the saw has been pulled over too many times on choke and it is now flooded. Two strokes should be pulled over until the engine coughs, the choke is then pushed in (Which leaves the saw in fast idle) and then after 1-3 pulls, it will start and run fast then blipping the throttle returns it to idle speed. It is different to many four strokes in so much as they will run on almost full choke unlike most two strokes, It may be worth popping the plug out and if it is wet, dry the plug, turn the saw upside down and pull it over hard a few times, expect droplets of fuel to be expelled and then leave the saw like this overnight and then replace the plug and try starting it by pulling the choke out and then push it back in, don't touch the throttle as it will knock off the fast idle you need to start the machine and then try to start it. If it won't go, try three pulls on choke and then try to stat without choke. The carbs these days have limiters, they are there to get some adjustment and most modern saws will run with the screws in any adjustment but the saw may not run as well as it should. BTW....I often act the idiot but it doesn't mean I am one

I have an old Zenoah strimmer and is identical to the Kawasaki engine ones, they are strong bits of kit with the only issue a coil going, it is probably 20 years old and an earlier generation to yours. If the gearbox is sealed then not much you can do. Engine wise, new fuel filter, spark plug and make sure the fuel lines are flexible and not degraded/split. Clean the air filter and replace as necessary. Worth looking at the clutch and drum if you are that way inclined but probably safe to leave unless the head is spinning all the time. The primer bulbs can go so a new carb kit and primer bulb wont harm. Make sure the carb is tuned correctly and.......enjoy!

I would fiddle with the carb until it runs

One year old - I wouldn't rule out the air filter unless you clean them out regularly. Having them block up causes the engine to run rich so the AT leans the mix right down to the point a hot start is a bitch! Other than that, not sure if it has the small 10mm spark plug but these can become unreliable, more so than the 14mm ones. Worth checking the compression but with AT....unlikely and you would feel it on the starter. Worth stripping the carb if the air filter and plug don't work, the gauze strainer may be blocked especially if you use the same can for saws and strimmers etc.

And that would never happen would it???

Always busy, got a few jobs done, read a few books, veggies are doing well, walked miles, around 5lb in weight loss, built a guitar that actually works, learnt a few riffs, still working on and off and enjoying a bit of free time after 38 years of constant work! I am concerned about the future economy and health but could keep this up for a long while yet.

Helicoil the damaged thread, most workshops doing this sort of work should be able to helicoil M4, M5, M6, M10 and M14 threads - the last two are spark plug holes. Very strong repair if done correctly.

Yup, arsy customers are not customers anymore in my book, bin em and move on!

Bloody hate money outstanding, had a few close calls but got all sorted by being a bit pushy and put it down to slow customers. Lack of answering the phone and emails are a strong sign that things are not going the right way. Turning up for a face to face may make a difference otherwise, small claims court etc! Perhaps we should start a non payment section on this forum!

excellent!

No problem, you were close to being bob on without my help

I usually dissolve thick transfer with chemicals and then abrade once it is oxidised and repeat until the transfer is gone. Thin transfer can just be abraded. There is a risk that you rub a cavity in the wall of the bore if you abrade too hard in one specific place, it may be a fraction of a micron deep but it can plummet compression through ring blow-by. Just take a look at the damage and use what you have.

Nope, sorry, Rush was a throwback from College days, hanging with the hippies!

Not this old chestnut. You always use the ratio recommended by the oil manufacturer and not some random figure given by the machine manufacturer. 50:1 for most major oil manufacturers.

Yup, any air leak will lean the saw down and will let it over rev. A loose cylinder will cause a big air leak, it may damage the base gasket, scuff the cylinder and in bad cases, fracture the cylinder lugs that clamp it to the crankcases. A loose muffler will allow the saw to over rev and also heat up the cylinder nicely with leaking exhaust gases so a seize is immanent.

The Mrs of course unless I haven't sorted the MS200T

Rush who.....is that where I Exit Stage Left and enter the unrest in the forest, Plus ca change Plus c'est la mem chose, I guess living in the limelight approaches the unreal.....etc! Now where's my Little Mix album!

.......and take over your life, even my wife knows about the foibles of the MS200t!!

How do you think we who fix the things daily feel Experience and skill help to dial in to the issues straight away and that is where the art is - bull's-eye all the time!

Pop the flywheel of and look at the key, if it is gone and is moulded in to the flywheel, you have a challenge to guess its position and lock it in place. It can be done but is in no way easy. A weak spark wont be caused by a damaged keyway so it may be fine. If you bend the end of the plug away from the central electrode, you may be surprised as to how strong it actually is. Check the key and go from there, it may just be a carb issue or seized piston.

ADW was commenting on the 266 carb, the 171 has a different carb so a different metering arm set up. Set up the 171 level with the outer gasket surface rather than the bottom of the bowl!

Not enough vowels......must be Welsh. Anyway, pop the muffler off, if seized, it will be scored up and not look smooth. If it is scored then you can replace the parts but you also have to understand what caused the parts to fail. This could be the owner not understanding that two strokes MUST have two stroke oil introduced to the fuel in a 50:1 ratio, fuel to oil. On a newer machine, this is probably the reason but don't rule out the carb fiddler that leans down the H screw with no idea what he is doing. Parts - DIY spare parts do Mitox parts but take it from me, replacing the parts is just one part of the repair, the rest is a full check to ensure it doesn't happen again. Anyway, WTF is a Mitox 4116 anyway?

Perhaps a full working saw Jan 2021??? Get the Champers ready

Well that's an easy one.....a cock that wants an ebay seller to fund his exploration in to totally stupid ideas!!!

Not a bad idea, hope he isn't one of my customers as he could be an ex customer PDQ!