spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Yes a coil change is fine but not a carb swap, that needs CST! Us scummy independent self employed guys are not worthy
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From memory, I thought al the earth connections join on the top coil connection and this wire goes from the top coil screw and ends up joining the engine just behind the flywheel. I try to avoid these saws, bad experiences on them!!!! Not sure why you have so many earth connections on yours, one should earth the coil laminations and the other provide an earth to the kill wire....you seem to have two earth connections and a spare one???
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I never understand how you can purchase the test kit and then not get the access to the access code, why just not sell the test kit in the first place - found the same on Stihl and Husqvarna, both the same. Same happened with car manufacturers with OBD2 ports, they were protective over their diagnostic systems but didn't get away with it as they were told by governments to standardize and make the technology widely available. Means I can find any fault code on my car with a £3 module and a £1 phone app.....ahhhhhhh Fixing it is always another issue!!!
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These saws had either a permanent oiler - on all the time even if the chain was stationary or one like on most modern saws where they only oil when the chain is spinning. The oiling has been good on all the machines I have tried. The oiler is adjustable so try it on maximum and if that doesn't work, purge the tank, clean the pickup filter and pump and check the oil pinion.
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It will soon be appointed dealers only so they will be your only place to get work like this done which will be an interesting one as all I hear from my customers is they lack knowledge and have a stupidly long turnaround on repairs. Up to the manufacturers to make their rules and if they don't work.......???
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Yup, you can't just slap on a new coil on these AT machines, you need the CST (Common Service Tool) software and interface to link the new carb and coil with your saw!
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If the failure is just down to the fact the key on the flywheel has broken then as long as the keyway is clean, the crank taper and the flywheel hole is clean and grease free and it is well torqued down, there should be no reason for it to fail again. Just check the flywheel to coil gap after torqueing it down as it may change a little. I don't know why the original would have failed, sometimes, excessive use of a rattle gun on the clutch can loosen the flywheel or it may have been taken off at some time and not tightened sufficiently.
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The moulded in key can shear during starting if the flywheel isn't torqued down correctly, just make sure both the crankshaft and flywheel jointing surfaces are clean and grease free then I usually crank the locating nut down pretty hard. The only exception is if the flywheel central boss isn't solid and can crack under extreme pressure. If you do a load of them, you know how hard to torque....I am sure ADW (Mr Torque Wrench) will give you the correct Nm figure!
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Most will make a vac/pressure connector out of a spark plug with the centre knocked out and a pipe let in. You can use the impulse line on some saws or modify a sealing plate if it suits.
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Nice picture, have you been watching a Youtube "drawing with charcoal" vid Reckon that carb is about as old as you!!
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If the metering arm is level with the base, as soon as it is pressed, the pressure on the needle should be released and fuel should flow. Easy enough to check, just connect your pop off tester or Mityvac to the fuel inlet, pump it up and lightly depress the metering arm, you should get an immediate loss of pressure. If both carbs had the same fault, it is possible the issue is somewhere else. Did you pressure and vacuum test the complete inlet side up to the point the carb is joined to the engine? Those plastic inlet manifold parts can crack with age! The carb should be set so you can just see the slightest bit of light around the throttle plate, with it set like that, unless the throttle is being kicked open by faulty throttle rods etc the only reason the saw will race is a relatively large air leak as the carb should be shutting off fuel and air and a bit of extra air will make it race and a lot of air will stop the saw completely.
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Level with the floor on the metering arm. If the diaphragm has a slot cut in the central nipple/stud, make sure it is hooked on to the metering arm if it has a forked end. If it is solid with no slot, just fit it normally. No need for any sealer. Try 1.5 turns out on the L screw and see if that works. Fit a new fuel filter if not done already.
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You were a lot younger.......sorry!
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I made a tester....Gunson lo gauge for pressure and a brake bleeder for vacuum, it worked reliably but the Mityvac I have now is easier. I often use the lo gauge on pressure testing big air leaks as I used a bicycle pump and it puts a lot of air in making it easier to find big leaks. Unless you are doing this as an on-going hobby, semi professionally or professionally/commercial, a pressure and vacuum tester is a bit of an indulgence but it is one of the most used bits of kit in my workshop, great on engines but also carbs and fuel lines!
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Here is the solid part sans dodgy spring.... Rope Rotor for Stihl BG66, BG66C - 4241 195 0400 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Rope rotor/pulley Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 4241 195 0400 Suitable for the following Stihl Machines: BG 66, BG 66...
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Paint brush, white spirit and a compressor. For most of the Arb types out there, a compressor can be sub £100 and has a motor that charges a cylinder with air allowing you to use an airline on dirty saws and is an effective way of cleaning air filters and dirty saws. Most of you seem to not understand such a tool that may keep your tools clean and in good condition. They are also good for running rattle guns, tyre pumps, staple and nail guns!......but what do I know!
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Yup...Peatff top of the class, the shank was stopping the bolts clamping the cylinder down, lucky they didn't puncture the crankcase! This saw had been to a very well known Arb supplier for a bottom end rebuild and came back over revving. The crank seal had been pushed in too much and had got ripped up which may have been the original fault but don't know, the bolts are Husqvarna T27 but not sure which model they are from. They said they couldn't find out what the issue was!! The saw went to another outfit that recommended a new cylinder as it was damaged.....after repair, I had at least 170psi from it before I couldn't be bothered with trying again - my back is a bit iffy at the moment! I really don't know what these guys are up to in their workshops!!
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Had a 372XPT in, had been rebuilt (bottom end) by a very well known outfit in Arb, another outfit said it needed a new top end, it was over revving on idle and I found a mullered seal that had been pushed in too deep and this.......
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......and I know where the local tip is
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Get it running, you know you want to
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Both the T540XP and the MS201TC-M are rated at 2.4HP.....
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But that wouldn't cause it to over-rev, are you thinking it may have nipped/seized because of a possible air leak or is it a case of Chainsaw Techs Tourette's?......if it is..."GRUNION PINS"!!!!!
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Not sure which 201 Dan was talking about but the Mtronic one is the best, early 201s were dire, they are not the same machine and there are a couple of significant differences making the machines completely different. The 201 throttle rods....come on....really, any tech who has done one MS200/201 will know to turn the machine on its side and if unsure, take the lid off carefully and take a pic of the parts on a smart phone!!! They are really not that difficult to strip! I could probably get a carb of a 201 in 1-2 mins. The 540......what shall we say, 5 minutes if you are lucky, probably nearer 10!! That 540 throttle cable.....what a sod, who invented that one, the fiddly wire connectors...Mmmmmm, all the breather and fuel pipes, the impulse issues, the over complicated inlet manifold!!! Break the handle and bang goes the fuel tank.....the 201, a £12 part and under an hour to fit
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That sounds like a sticky throttle as an air leak may cause the idle to be higher than usual, the engine to rev much to high on full throttle, perhaps a lag in pickup and holding on to revs rather than snapping straight down to idle when the throttle is closed. If you rev the engine flat out and the revs stay flat out and trop very slowly than the first thing is to check the carb throttle assembly, carb throttle return springs etc are all clean and lubricated and make sure that when you release the throttle, the throttle valve (brass disk in carb nearest the engine) snaps completely shut. You can start the thing with the top cover off and manually push the carb closed with the small plate the carb throttle rod fits to after revving to make sure the mechanism does work and if the saw drops back to idle as it should, your throttle is sticky. If the engine still takes time to drop back to idle even with you pushing the throttle valve closed, it is most likely an air leak.
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TBH - I have only done TS400s and not the later model - they seemed OK to me, typical Stihl inside. Done a couple of Huskys but swerve all stone cutters now, all that abrasive dust is much worse in the workshop than the oily crud you get out of chainsaws and if you think most chainsaws are abused.....stonecutters reach a new level of LOW!!! I don't think operators can grasp that the powder from cutting stone is highly abrasive and a clean air filter is your friend
