spudulike

Shipping from Ireland costs a bit more but is possible - just drain, bag and pack it well!

Yup, as fitted on MS200T exhausts or not on the ones that fall off or come loose!!! Also used on the many press tools I used to set and run in a previous life!

I made my own punch, needed a little fettling but it works for me. Most of the carbs that need a new plug are C1Qs so use the same punch. They are an absolute sod to get punched in and sealed 100%, I have seen all sorts of attempts including a bit of what looked like a coke can - best leave it in place especially with the red seal as it is the most reliable type of seal.

Difficult to say as I usually test the saws for a few minutes rather than for a time where they get damn hot. I would check the spark plug is a good colour (tan) rather than white or graphite grey. It is possible you have an issue but without plugging it in to the AT interface, you won't be able to see the carb settings to see if they are correcting for an issue such as an air leak. These AT saws do a good job of correcting running issues to the point they pop! It may be a carb issue or fuel line/fuel filter or it may just be hot weather.....I can't say without looking at it.

No, it is the one where the crew are told not to shoot at the aliens as they have acid blood and one of the bods says "what are we supposed to use, harsh language"! STEP AWAY FROM THAT WELCH PLUG!!!!!!! You don't have the tool for it

Just read this again....check the low speed setting on the carb, if the saw loads up a bit under full throttle, when the throttle is snapped shut, it can give the saw more fuel than it can deal with so the idle plummets then picks up. Make sure the H speed is set to around 13Krpm and the low speed isn't set too rich......and make sure the air filter is fully cleaned!

Not really, I haven't had much of an issue with these carbs - it is worth making sure the part of the rubber inlet manifold is inserted correctly in to the slots either side of the throttle valve. You may also like to check the coil to flywheel gap. The coil is a bit weird in that the bottom two parts of the coil sit the typical distance from the coil and the top part sits a few mm away from the flywheel - make sure this is correct as if incorrect, the coil will keep kicking in to different advance settings cocking up the idle - I have seen this before - the first part of the coil advance is very low advance and can cause backfiring on starting but does give easy starting characteristics and then it flips up to normal advance, probably 20-30 degrees. Get the gap wrong and it bounces between the two giving varying idle!

Well I could have but thought I would be more subtle...

Damn, that's done it, a technical question

Nice....factory tools for pushing the cases back on to the crank, where did they come from? I would still whack the crank both ends after reassembly just to be sure!

Hard stares....hard stares......bugger that, get lively with the harsh language and if that doesn't work, break out the hammer!

Yup, looks like a light seize that has been cleaned up by continuing to use the saw. As above and I always just fit a new piston as once the saw is apart, the cost difference isn't massive and it will give you more life out of the saw as well as better performance.

Would that be the first, second, third, fourth...........etc time we watched it........one of the best!

Firing up any engine I have worked on always makes me think of this..........

Thank the Lord

OK, welch plug with red sealer....LEAVE IT ALONE, you will not be able to get a new one punched in and sealed well! The carb surfaces are fine, a light rub of grease or oil on the gasket surfaces can be used but not necessary. The needle and spring - just change them both. A slack or short spring can give a much lower pop off, trouble with flooding in hot weather and sluggish throttle response. A leaking needle valve will give flooding. The "valve jet", I am assuming you mean the check valve.....I would be careful in taking it out and refitting a new one. They sometimes fail and go open rather than sealing one way, there are ways of testing them but it is fairly unlikely that this has failed as a saw will run if it is faulty but it will be very rich and will not idle at all. I change, at a guess, 1 valve every 50 - MS200Ts I do (similar carb). I only change them after testing them.

My advice is to tackle the easy ones to cross them off the list. It is easy to check the impulse line, less easy to check some of the other stuff but these are the things I would check. The Walbro carb thing is a real possibility but rarely happens overnight, it is more of a time related thing! Just work through them, if you do pull the manifold off, let me know before refitting as there is a right way and a way others do it!!

A sharp craft knife? Mind your fingers if using a safety razor double edged blade.....perhaps a Derby, smooth and reasonably sharp

Sorry, I meant "Purchaser" and not seller - now corrected!!!

Does feathering the throttle or holding it wide open have any effect on the 10 secs and die issue?

This could be a number of things but it sounds like your saw is getting enough fuel/air to fire and start. It does sound like once started, it is either getting not enough fuel or too much air (air leak). It is also possible that the throttle is stuck open but I would expect the machine to keep running and not stop. So.....possible causes: - 1) Fine wood pulp in the carb internal gauze strainer....common on all saws. 2) Impulse line has come off - this is the small rubber hose to the clutch side of the saw just below the inlet manifold. 3) Split inlet manifold - they are prone to failing around the impulse connector but isn't possible to see without taking it off which can give another load of problems with refitting if not done correctly. 4) Bad crank seals - unlikely as they are pretty good in that area. 5) Air leak elsewhere - possible if the cylinder is loose. 6) Split fuel line - they commonly split where they push through the fuel tank wall. 7) If the saw has a Walbro carb, they have issues with accelerator pumps that cause issues very similar to yours as described and to the MS200T issues - unstable idle, rising and then dying - they can be slight to impossibly bad but the fix is to fit the Zama replacement, the factory did this but make sure the H screw is a good two turns out as the check valve is a bit light on flow and it needs a bit more on the H screw to compensate. I would be surprised if it isn't one of these but difficult to tell without seeing the machine - Does it have the automatic decomp valve? If it does, make sure the rubber pipe is in good shape and it is possible it has stuck open - they were a shyte idea and not reliable!

Is this on the first outing? No one has bent the bar on a previous outing have they? Other than that, make sure the chain, bar and sprocket match - gauge, pitch and drive links. Make sure that when you tighten the chain and do up the bar nut that the end of the bar is pushed upwards or you are griping the top of the chain and pulling upwards so the bar is pre-tensioned - amazed how many aren't aware of this simple technique and their chains keep going slack!

I use a decent quality sharp wood chisel, sounds brutal but if you get a nice angle on it, the residue will come straight off. Don't worry about a slight mark or two....it isn't rocket science, the gasket material will seal fine.

They always look after the purchaser which is frustrating if the purchaser is an ijut (not directed at you of course!!) and the seller is bona fide decent but .........you never got it, the seller cant have packed it correctly ensuring it had no fuel smells etc so you reap what you sow....life is harsh but can be made less so if you do things right - decent box, FULL drain down, bag the saw, double skin box, lots of padding, shrink wrap around the outside if the box is a bit iffy, bar ends padded if included, padding around the dogs....simple but not often done! I haven't had any issues with kit I have couriered and there have been hundreds!