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About arborlicious

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  • Birthday 05/10/1972

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  1. Good point. I'll see where the adjuster ends up if I put on a new chain. Have never had this issue with Stihl chainsaw bar (20") so I just figured the adjustment holes on the Cannon bars must be a few mm closer to the tip.
  2. I've just worn out my first 20" Cannon bar that was running on an MS460. I only realised it was worn out after the chain adjuster was at max and no longer functional (cross threaded) - that's a first in the 10 year life of the saw. Would be good to see a side by side comparison of the adjusting holes between new Cannon and Stihl bars to see what their respective start positions are with new chain. Also running a 28" Cannon on MS661 (Oregon 75JGX Chain) and a 36" Cannon on Husqvarna 395XP (Carlton AE3P-SK chain - full skip semi-chisel)
  3. I used to be a Word expert - started with version 2 early 90's. Please don't use it (or Excel) for your quotes/invoicing. Use a proper online invoicing App - plenty of them mentioned earlier in this post.
  4. The kit should come with a tap that you can use directly in the existing hole without the need to drill since the existing hole will be large enough already. You might need to buy a tap holder. Also, use a bit of bar oil for lubrication and make sure you stuff something in the exhaust port to stop swarf entering.
  5. So far so good. Now on par or slightly better than my 'good' 200T. Powered through some 10" hardwood (Eucalyptus seiberi) before switching to the 460. Also remembered that I'd put a 7T sprocket (+ corresponding worm drive) into this saw several years ago. The higher compression seems to help maintain the higher chain speed (running 3/8" Picco chain.)
  6. Picked up the helicoil kit on Thursday and sorted out the stripped exhaust mount thread. Did the same on the non-stripped side too - easier to do when you can plug up the exhaust port to stop swarf getting in. Didn't bother drilling just straight in with the tap and a dab of bar oil. Did a partial re-assembly - top handle and fan housing in order to do a compression test. Came in at 165psi cold (1,000m altitude)! That's coming from 125psi before the base gasket delete. Finished putting the saw together and gave her a run. Back in action. I'll make this my primary MS200T for a month or so before doing the same on the other - base gasket delete. Can hopefully improve from 2 month turn around to 2 days.
  7. Just be glad the crank seals didn't need replacing or it would take 12-18 months and I'd have to release this discourse as a chapter book. No need for climbing saw on this job...
  8. The "rough" part might be justified now.... You made me rush to get this saw ready for Spring! Took the cylinder off to delete the base gasket. Used some Permatex Ultra Copper in place of the gasket. Let it sit for an hour before torquing the cylinder bolts to 10Nm. Performed the vacuum and pressure tests again to make sure the seal was good - success. As an aside I learnt that using a finger–not a sausage finger–in the intake boot/manifold works for the vac/pressure tests. Next step, install flywheel and ignition coil. I only removed the later for cleaning. Adjusted ignition module gap using feeler gauge 0.2mm and a bit of card. Now for the exhaust and disaster strikes. I'm doing up the exhaust bolts –they've never felt 'right' but I thought it was due to the retaining compound used during manufacture–and one of them suddenly gets loosey goosey and won't tighten at all. Damn it. I've stripped the thread! Time for helicoil M5 x 0.8mm - living in a small town on Sunday that'll have to wait until tomorrow.
  9. I'll sign you up for "Spuds Down Under Porting and Tuning Workshop"
  10. I'll know when the saw is running again – hopefully by Spring.
  11. Yes, now that I know what I'm doing. It only took be 5 weeks to get the setup right! I might be slow but at least I'm rough.
  12. Finally, success! After a couple or nine false starts I'm sure the crank seals are in good condition. I could not seem to get the vacuum or pressure to hold steady (7psi) but in the end traced it to the impulse line itself. The impulse line was quite stiff and I think this was causing it to leak on the crankcase nipple. Impulse line replaced and will hold 7psi all day. Rotated crank shaft and still okay. Can finally start on the re-assembly less base gasket.
  13. I'm using the impulse line to attach the mityvac. Yesterday I made up a blanking plate (10mm flat bar) for the exhaust port which makes it easier to block than using the exhaust itself. Gave it a quick go and at least this time I could build up vacuum and pressure but they did drop down again. What are the expected results with say 10psi? How long should it take to drop down to 0 again?
  14. Finally found some time today to perform the pressure and vacuum tests...disaster. Would not hold any pressure or vacuum...6 hours later realised I had not installed the plastic plate over the carb boot to seal it onto the cylinder...idiot. Waiting for next weekend for the real test.


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