Jump to content

arborlicious

Member
  • Content Count

    86
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About arborlicious

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 05/10/1972

Personal Information

  • Location:
    Australia
  • Occupation
    Arborist
  • City
    Katoomba

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. My Falteimer cubes took a direct hit from 14oz throw bag the other day breaking one of its internal fibreglass 'legs'. A bit annoying now that it won't stand up straight. I have not had a close look yet but seeing if anyone has successfully replaced broken bit with new fibreglass rod on the side/corner. Might need some hand sewing action.
  2. Depends on the job and the tree. Head up the trunk if you need to prune branches as you go–and can do so without installing additional rigging at the top. From a physics point of view the force on either end of the rope is the same.
  3. The earmuffs on the protos don't pop down tight like the MSA–especially if you have hair in the way. Yes, I should get a hair cut! I guess that's why the protos muffs are not chipper spec–there's just not enough room. Having sensitive ears I prefer maximum noise reduction even when no chipper operating.
  4. The Protos are very nice fitting except for the earmuffs. As such I now prefer the new (2019) Petzl Vertex Vent with chipper spec MSA earmuffs. As mentioned by swinny above the old Vertex Vent is rubbish. I'd like to hear from anyone who has fitted the Peltor X4 muffs to a Protos with the new attachment brackets.
  5. Good point. I'll see where the adjuster ends up if I put on a new chain. Have never had this issue with Stihl chainsaw bar (20") so I just figured the adjustment holes on the Cannon bars must be a few mm closer to the tip.
  6. I've just worn out my first 20" Cannon bar that was running on an MS460. I only realised it was worn out after the chain adjuster was at max and no longer functional (cross threaded) - that's a first in the 10 year life of the saw. Would be good to see a side by side comparison of the adjusting holes between new Cannon and Stihl bars to see what their respective start positions are with new chain. Also running a 28" Cannon on MS661 (Oregon 75JGX Chain) and a 36" Cannon on Husqvarna 395XP (Carlton AE3P-SK chain - full skip semi-chisel)
  7. I used to be a Word expert - started with version 2 early 90's. Please don't use it (or Excel) for your quotes/invoicing. Use a proper online invoicing App - plenty of them mentioned earlier in this post.
  8. The kit should come with a tap that you can use directly in the existing hole without the need to drill since the existing hole will be large enough already. You might need to buy a tap holder. Also, use a bit of bar oil for lubrication and make sure you stuff something in the exhaust port to stop swarf entering.
  9. So far so good. Now on par or slightly better than my 'good' 200T. Powered through some 10" hardwood (Eucalyptus seiberi) before switching to the 460. Also remembered that I'd put a 7T sprocket (+ corresponding worm drive) into this saw several years ago. The higher compression seems to help maintain the higher chain speed (running 3/8" Picco chain.)
  10. Picked up the helicoil kit on Thursday and sorted out the stripped exhaust mount thread. Did the same on the non-stripped side too - easier to do when you can plug up the exhaust port to stop swarf getting in. Didn't bother drilling just straight in with the tap and a dab of bar oil. Did a partial re-assembly - top handle and fan housing in order to do a compression test. Came in at 165psi cold (1,000m altitude)! That's coming from 125psi before the base gasket delete. Finished putting the saw together and gave her a run. Back in action. I'll make this my primary MS200T for a month or so before doing the same on the other - base gasket delete. Can hopefully improve from 2 month turn around to 2 days.
  11. Just be glad the crank seals didn't need replacing or it would take 12-18 months and I'd have to release this discourse as a chapter book. No need for climbing saw on this job...
  12. The "rough" part might be justified now.... You made me rush to get this saw ready for Spring! Took the cylinder off to delete the base gasket. Used some Permatex Ultra Copper in place of the gasket. Let it sit for an hour before torquing the cylinder bolts to 10Nm. Performed the vacuum and pressure tests again to make sure the seal was good - success. As an aside I learnt that using a finger–not a sausage finger–in the intake boot/manifold works for the vac/pressure tests. Next step, install flywheel and ignition coil. I only removed the later for cleaning. Adjusted ignition module gap using feeler gauge 0.2mm and a bit of card. Now for the exhaust and disaster strikes. I'm doing up the exhaust bolts –they've never felt 'right' but I thought it was due to the retaining compound used during manufacture–and one of them suddenly gets loosey goosey and won't tighten at all. Damn it. I've stripped the thread! Time for helicoil M5 x 0.8mm - living in a small town on Sunday that'll have to wait until tomorrow.
  13. I'll sign you up for "Spuds Down Under Porting and Tuning Workshop"
  14. I'll know when the saw is running again – hopefully by Spring.

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.