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Everything posted by arborlicious

  1. Some further tips after repairing a colleagues Falteimer throw cube. This one had the leg broken close to the bottom corner–about 75mm from the corner–so I thought to try the repair by doing everything from that corner rather than opening the top corner as well. Managed to pull out the old leg using vise grips while milking the fabric. But when trying to insert the new bit of fibreglass it would not go in because there was still a coil of the old leg remaining inside the fabric. I had to use a small piece of wire to fish out the end of the coil and pull it out gently–see the pic below. This also explains the difficulty in removing the old leg. I still have another 1m of fibreglass that will no doubt get lost before needing to repair another cube.
  2. I'm in Katoomba but thankfully the 'Ruin Castle' fire south and 'Grose Valley' fire north are well under control and we even had 0.2mm of rain this morning so finally had a chance to wash the windscreen on the truck after two dry weeks.
  3. Cost is relevant to the argument if it costs another 50 million to cancel the event–that's another 50 million that would come from future budget. Also, the city firefighters would be on standby anyway as they're not RFS - Rural Fire Service. We'd be further up sh!t creek without the RFS volunteers.
  4. I live close–about 100km west–Sydney and I'm not a fan of the fireworks but I'm pretty sure it would have cost more to NOT have the display this year. I.e. the money was spent many months ago so would probably cost more to cancel (e.g. barges on the harbour already loaded with fireworks would have to be unloaded rather than dumped out to sea...or whatever they usually do with the spent fireworks.) Will be interesting what Sydney council does next year. Maybe we'll run out of water before then and all move to NZ.
  5. Fixed the throw bag yesterday using 3mm fibreglass rod . Steps to repeat in case you need do the same: Unpick top/bottom sewn corners so that broken leg can be removed. Pull out broke leg from top and bottom making sure to save the plastic end caps. Cut new 3mm fibreglass rod to ~420mm. I used loppers - see picture below Insert new rod into side of throw cube. Use superglue or similar to stick the old end caps back on. Fold the fabric back over in the corner and you're ready for action I did not bother re-stitching the corner since the end caps are glued this should stop the leg from sliding out. Thank-you Falteimer for making a great repairable product.
  6. Can't find the vernier caliper but the fibreglass rod is closer to 3mm not the 2mm I mentioned above. Found some online for $1.99 for 1m - used for repairing kites. I'll have to visit their retail side to save the $9 delivery...but that's a $2.50 train ride to the city...hopefully raining and not burning in Australia on Boxing day.
  7. I'll definitely be buying another one. Given how long this one lasted (+ 10 years) must make it one of the best value arborist purchases around. Used almost every work day. Pics below of the break in the side (propped up with a stick on the inside for show.) The cube is still usable but annoying. Fibreglass rod had already worn a hole in the bottom corner but I had to unpick the stitching in the top corner to expose the other end (second pic.) The fibreglass rod is a tight fit so will need to get the exact size - looks about 2mm. Cut to length, push it through and put some of that hard setting putty–sugru–on each end.
  8. Amazing the little details that go into these Falteimer cubes. Have picked apart the sewing at the top to pull out the fibreglass rods - well at least one of the broken bits. There's a soft plastic bit on the end that I guess protects the canvas from sharper fibreglass.
  9. My Falteimer cubes took a direct hit from 14oz throw bag the other day breaking one of its internal fibreglass 'legs'. A bit annoying now that it won't stand up straight. I have not had a close look yet but seeing if anyone has successfully replaced broken bit with new fibreglass rod on the side/corner. Might need some hand sewing action.
  10. Depends on the job and the tree. Head up the trunk if you need to prune branches as you go–and can do so without installing additional rigging at the top. From a physics point of view the force on either end of the rope is the same.
  11. The earmuffs on the protos don't pop down tight like the MSA–especially if you have hair in the way. Yes, I should get a hair cut! I guess that's why the protos muffs are not chipper spec–there's just not enough room. Having sensitive ears I prefer maximum noise reduction even when no chipper operating.
  12. The Protos are very nice fitting except for the earmuffs. As such I now prefer the new (2019) Petzl Vertex Vent with chipper spec MSA earmuffs. As mentioned by swinny above the old Vertex Vent is rubbish. I'd like to hear from anyone who has fitted the Peltor X4 muffs to a Protos with the new attachment brackets.
  13. Good point. I'll see where the adjuster ends up if I put on a new chain. Have never had this issue with Stihl chainsaw bar (20") so I just figured the adjustment holes on the Cannon bars must be a few mm closer to the tip.
  14. I've just worn out my first 20" Cannon bar that was running on an MS460. I only realised it was worn out after the chain adjuster was at max and no longer functional (cross threaded) - that's a first in the 10 year life of the saw. Would be good to see a side by side comparison of the adjusting holes between new Cannon and Stihl bars to see what their respective start positions are with new chain. Also running a 28" Cannon on MS661 (Oregon 75JGX Chain) and a 36" Cannon on Husqvarna 395XP (Carlton AE3P-SK chain - full skip semi-chisel)
  15. I used to be a Word expert - started with version 2 early 90's. Please don't use it (or Excel) for your quotes/invoicing. Use a proper online invoicing App - plenty of them mentioned earlier in this post.
  16. The kit should come with a tap that you can use directly in the existing hole without the need to drill since the existing hole will be large enough already. You might need to buy a tap holder. Also, use a bit of bar oil for lubrication and make sure you stuff something in the exhaust port to stop swarf entering.
  17. So far so good. Now on par or slightly better than my 'good' 200T. Powered through some 10" hardwood (Eucalyptus seiberi) before switching to the 460. Also remembered that I'd put a 7T sprocket (+ corresponding worm drive) into this saw several years ago. The higher compression seems to help maintain the higher chain speed (running 3/8" Picco chain.)
  18. Picked up the helicoil kit on Thursday and sorted out the stripped exhaust mount thread. Did the same on the non-stripped side too - easier to do when you can plug up the exhaust port to stop swarf getting in. Didn't bother drilling just straight in with the tap and a dab of bar oil. Did a partial re-assembly - top handle and fan housing in order to do a compression test. Came in at 165psi cold (1,000m altitude)! That's coming from 125psi before the base gasket delete. Finished putting the saw together and gave her a run. Back in action. I'll make this my primary MS200T for a month or so before doing the same on the other - base gasket delete. Can hopefully improve from 2 month turn around to 2 days.
  19. Just be glad the crank seals didn't need replacing or it would take 12-18 months and I'd have to release this discourse as a chapter book. No need for climbing saw on this job...
  20. The "rough" part might be justified now.... You made me rush to get this saw ready for Spring! Took the cylinder off to delete the base gasket. Used some Permatex Ultra Copper in place of the gasket. Let it sit for an hour before torquing the cylinder bolts to 10Nm. Performed the vacuum and pressure tests again to make sure the seal was good - success. As an aside I learnt that using a finger–not a sausage finger–in the intake boot/manifold works for the vac/pressure tests. Next step, install flywheel and ignition coil. I only removed the later for cleaning. Adjusted ignition module gap using feeler gauge 0.2mm and a bit of card. Now for the exhaust and disaster strikes. I'm doing up the exhaust bolts –they've never felt 'right' but I thought it was due to the retaining compound used during manufacture–and one of them suddenly gets loosey goosey and won't tighten at all. Damn it. I've stripped the thread! Time for helicoil M5 x 0.8mm - living in a small town on Sunday that'll have to wait until tomorrow.
  21. I'll sign you up for "Spuds Down Under Porting and Tuning Workshop"
  22. I'll know when the saw is running again – hopefully by Spring.
  23. Yes, now that I know what I'm doing. It only took be 5 weeks to get the setup right! I might be slow but at least I'm rough.
  24. Finally, success! After a couple or nine false starts I'm sure the crank seals are in good condition. I could not seem to get the vacuum or pressure to hold steady (7psi) but in the end traced it to the impulse line itself. The impulse line was quite stiff and I think this was causing it to leak on the crankcase nipple. Impulse line replaced and will hold 7psi all day. Rotated crank shaft and still okay. Can finally start on the re-assembly less base gasket.


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