spudulike

I ported mine, deleted the base gasket, opened up the ports and a light MM. Pulls 1-2Krpm more now on the top end and is noticeably better. Leaf blowers are a good bit of kit, raking leaves can give you a jippy back, all that twisting motion, not good. Never tried one before I got one as part of a job lot of busted kit and it changed my opinion. Before anyone asks.....bugger off, I am not going to port your blower!!!!!

I would do what I suggested first, probably just a build up of congealed oil!

Saws that have been run on an oil heavy fuel mix when left standing evaporate all the fuel from the cylinder bore leaving oil. This can REALLY seal a healthy engine. You may have this phenomena. A few squirts of WD40/GT85 down the plug hole and pulling it over hard a few times will help dissipate it and then try it again. I can't help but think it is this. The only other thing left is something has come loose and is catching between the flywheel/clutch and the casing/engine but would have thought that this would also happen with the plug out as well. The last thing to note is as you pull the starter, is the engine jamming up as the piston comes up past the exhaust port to create secondary compression or is it random or another part of the cycle? This can help a diagnosis.

The crank is manufactured out of damn hard steel and is very unlikely to get damaged or form any sort of "lip" etc. I just fit a new key and then crank the flywheel down pretty damn hard - the exception being some of these lighter modern flywheels that can crack if you torque them too hard. The 660 is fine, it has a steel boss!

Pull the plug out, turn the saw upside down so the plug hole is pointing downwards and pull it over hard for 5-10 times. You should get a fair bit of fuel mix running out of the plug hole. Let it dry out and try again.

Not being funny but the OPs remit was for cleaning saws and pumping tyres and the no tank design will do that just fine.?

I agree with Stubby, there is no issue with a no tank compressor for air gun applications. Sure, you cant run a rattle gun off them but they are very suitable for cleaning saws - just switch it on and go. We aren't making it up, it is what it is and it works!

I started with a pump only compressor so no tank, you just turned it on and the pressure was generated against the gun so you just kept pulsing the trigger. It worked just fine and did the job until it pretty much wore out! Any compressor is better than none and you could use it to pump tyres etc. It wouldn't power a staple gun or rattle gun though!

The 660 coil and flywheel are pretty robust and rarely go wrong. The flywheel has a steel taper and it is rock solid and can take a lot of torque on the location nut. Backfiring is a sign that the ignition timing has shifted which is strange. Best to pull off the flywheel, check the key and then reset the flywheel again and tighten - not sure how you locked the crank in place to do this but you should use the Stihl double ended plastic stop for this IMO. Not sure how the original flywheel "spun off"????? They usually need a damn good whack once the puller is fitted, to get them off! Are you in the repair game?? If the key is OK - I suspect it has sheared again as I don't reckon you are tightening it enough and am guessing you had removed it before......it is possible the flywheel coming loose has hit the coil and either damaged the internals or the flywheel impact has damaged the magnetism in the flywheel. I have seen this before - the magnetism loss in a MS461 so very much like the 660 flywheel but this one lost its spark! In order, I would say Key, Coil, flywheel would be the most likely issues. Is there any other history to this machine?

I feel let down?

I am taking it that the screw hole goes straight in to the inner crankcase same as the 372. If so, helicoil the hole carefully and fit a new bolt - may need a little sealant around it to ensure it is airtight.

242XP New piston, clean and lightly hone the bore, pressure and vacuum check and service the fuel system. 346 - just make sure the bore is clean and smooth. Engines cant tell they have small imperfections, they need good compression so the bore above the exhaust port is the important part as long as the plating isn't worn off below it!

Think we have an echo!!!

Tyre put on the wrong way round? Those are definitely alloys so whats with the cable tie? The tyre did shred on that car by the wear on the inner arch. Was the driver pissed and kept driving despite a front wheel blow out?

That is a bit thrash for Stubby, he is more vintage tele or 335.....and so am I for that matter!

Bugger off, I am enjoying my leisure time!!!!!!

The nut that looks like the cover is missing is the lock nut and usually doesn't have a cover!!! The cable tie is bizarre as those are alloys and have been well kerbed a few times! The wing is also dented - bad driver???

Probably worth stripping and selling the parts as this can be more lucrative then refurbishing if that is your thing. GK knows his mowers, sound advice!

Take an old plug, bend the end electrode out at 45 degrees or take it off completely then place it in the cap, earth it and pull the saw over hard and fast. If it sparks - there aint much wrong with the flywheel or coil! I wouldn't get too hung up on these parts unless you have no spark, the saw has strange cutting out issues or fails when hot.

There is a Stihl document on which flywheels and coils go on which machines. The flywheel part code is, helpfully, on the back of the flywheel!!!

Glad the Husky is working well?

I haven't really had a look at the oil strainer on these machines as I haven't had one in with issues. Technically, the strainer is there to stop dirt blocking the pump. Taking out a strainer may work for a while but it will allow the pump to become blocked. I would look at seeing if the Stihl or Husqvarna strainer may fit and work better. I wouldn't recommend removing the strainer on any saw as it is likely to cause further issues in time.

You called....feeling like a bloody genie!!!! Pump shafts typically run in an alloy housing or in a metal insert pushed in to a plastic or metal body. Sometimes after many years use, the metal, especially in the alloy ones, gets a bit worn so the oil isn't pressurized through the pump properly and can end up pissing out between the shaft and housing out where the pinion fits - it happens and can severely reduce oiling pressure - seen it on old 020Ts a fair bit. The pump typically gets plugged with wood chip as the filter tends to be pretty course, pick up pipes or filters can get blocked and also bar holes can be blocked - seen it all before. I usually just strip the pump out, check for plugging, check the pinion, check the pickup parts and flush the tank. That fixes most issues apart from excessively worn pumps.

If starter timing is a bit out, the saw will be wrenching your starter handle out of your fingers - it can be made easier!

Magneto - like on those French mopeds? Couple of things, when the saw coughs on full choke, when you knock the choke lever up one notch and it does get going, does it just idle or does the engine rev up on a 1/4 throttle speed? If he engine just idles on what is the fast idle setting (one notch up from full choke), it will be the control shaft - the lever that holds the throttle open often breaks off these early machines meaning the fast idle setting isn't there. The other thing if this lever is OK is that often the low speed adjustment is a bit lean making starting cold pretty difficult. Richen it up a bit, increase the idle and bingo.