spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Thanks for the vote Mr Stubby?
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You do know you can use the top of the starter handle to undo the fuel and oil caps.......don't you???
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Well, I did say? Glad it worked out OK...another win!
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It is a bastard Andy, I didn't see my father from April to the time he died in hospital (non Covid in this case). Robbed doesn't come close to it!
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I would never look at changing the accelerator pump before I looked at the pump diaphragm and the gauze strainer. No 1 they are much simpler items to check and No 2, they are more likely to have failed than the pump unless the saw is 6 years plus old and heavily used. Oh....but what do I know?
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Although it pains me, you are correct, only seen the 2nd one a handful of times - the first was the best and the sequels got worse and worse - the 2nd was pretty good and the rest, pretty dodgy. The dog came along in the 2nd one and had a go at the Gyro Copter fella - makes it MM2! Looking forward to seeing all those Z1000 and GS1000s on the road in 2021!!
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If you have cleaned the bore it will work fine.....been talking to my mate Mystic Meg, got her crystal ball in my workshop, some of you on here are dirty boys btw?
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I must have seen that film 20-30 times, one of the all time greats......IMO although I am sure some will say Mamma Mia or the Sound of Music are theirs!!!
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Yup, met up a few times, nice bloke and also a very knowledgeable fella...well done!
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Check the compression is OK, if you can't, pop off the muffler and look at the piston thought the exhaust port making sure the piston isn't scored. Change the plug. Change the fuel filter and service the carb with s new carb kit. If you can't do this, give it to someone else to do.....preferably not me unless you are local!
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All I have plastered is artexed fracking ceilings, bloody pain in the posterior. Couldn't believe how much easier it is on a flat surface.
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I would slap in a Meteor £40 piston, do all the ancillary work I mentioned earlier and put some hours on it. Big engines suffer a lot less from this sort of thing compared to smaller engines. You should be able to delete the base gasket as well which should help but check the squish first.
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I would stick a new piston in it. I think you will be surprised with how well it will work. The damage under the port looks light and is much less likely to cause issues than the inlet side which would cause lots of blow back and leakage on crankcase primary compression. If you haven't, lightly hone it with a rotary hone and see if you can get a Meteor, Hyway or Golf/Vec piston in that order! Engines don't see that the bore isn't visually pleasing. They just work on compression made hot and cold etc. Make sure you pressure and vac test then service the fuel system and tach the saw a bit rich to let it all bed in!
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Just make one with 0.5mm gasket paper! It may have been deleted to up the compression, especially if there was liquid gasket used!
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Sharp wood chisel on the old gasket. My money is still on old oil causing Mega compression, seen that before. It is usually this or fuel in the crankcase causing a lock. Just reassemble after cleaning the bore with WD40. Use no oil and try it again. Reckon it will be back to normal!
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DB Schenker, I used to use a company called Bax Global to ship in to Dell Limerick many years ago when in my former job. They got taken over by DB Schenker...reminded me of Michael Schenker of UFO fame! Bax Global were good, not used Schenker for many years!
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I am going to retire and do all those things I have been meaning to do for a while....like inspect my navel fluff!!
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It should have a cylinder base gasket as standard or at least be sealed with liquid gasket which would raise the compression and seal the engine as it should be. No gasket or sealing compound would cause an air leak giving running issues but not your symptoms.
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Probably a fluid lock....fuel mix in the bottom of the crankcase. Pull the plug, turn the unit upside down, pull it over hard a few times and see if the engine kicks out fluid. If nothing comes out, it may be just old oil on the bore making the compression super high. If it isn't this, it may be one of the bolts holding the cowel on catching the back of the flywheel which is common to Stihl blowers but the plug being in or out shouldn't matter. Unlikely to be the plug as it is a CMR6H and they are pretty long anyway and am not sure you can get a longer type!
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I have used DHL for many years and they have been pretty good!
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A nice simple one, glad it is all OK now.
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Most couriers do a damn good job, working long hours and getting paid peanuts. I have had fair exposure to this getting in parts, personal stuff and shipping as a business and most do a damn good job. I always use a 24-48 hr service and that is generally what happens. I would suggest your supplier has used a discounted..."deliver sometime service" as it is cheap but not cheerful in my experience! If you pay the going rate to a commercial courier company for a 24-48hr service, in my experience....they deliver just that!
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Bugger, the link - https://www.stihl.com/p/media/download/uk-en/STIHL_Chain_Saw_Safety_Manual.pdf
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Most saws are pretty much the same, use 50:1 mix in the FUEL tank, chain oil in the OIL tank, make sure you tension the chain correctly, understand how the chain brake works and how and when to use it. Understand the dangers of using a chainsaw and that will give you some chance of protecting yourself. Never carry a running chainsaw with the brake off, never cut anything with the tip of the bar unless you want to damage yourself. This may be of use if you are in to reading but the important thing to do is UNDERSTAND the dangers and how they can happen and use the correct methods to avoid them happening. I am sure someone will now wax lyrically now about PPE?
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One thing I do know, they are damn good at getting a bonfire going well....or a fire pit!!
