spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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MS201.....Mtronic or normal carb? Will it idle steadily or unevenly? Can you get the revs up by blipping, feathering the throttle?
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Possibly a 444 but ADW will come along shortly waxing lyrically about what it is and all its foibles!!!
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The decomp valve knocks off the compression to make it easier to turn over but also can cause starting issues if the saw isn't pulled over hard enough. Personally, I don't tend to use the decomp valve unless the saw is something like a MS660 or 395XP or larger. I do test saws using the decomp when I have worked on them to ensure they start freely using the valve. If you can pull the saw over with the valve out, try starting it without it to see if it helps - When cold, use choke, pull it over till it coughs, push the choke lever up one notch (fast idle) and then pull it over (1-3 pulls) until it starts. If the saw is warm/hot, put it on full choke and then push it up to fast idle and THEN try to start it, never use full choke on a hot saw unless it is an Autotune model and even then I try to start using no choke.
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I have a cheap Silverline one, the difference is I have a speed control fitted to it so you can slow the wheel right down so the cutter doesn't over heat and this can be further reduced by dabbing the wheel on the chain. It isn't rocket science, friction causes heat so lower the friction by short contact and less speed.
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The Schrader valve must have a very low opening pressure. Just putting in any old tyre valve won't work. Snapon white valves work.
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On YouTube, there is a vid of Matty F testing Stubbys ported 390 and his ported 395. The 395 is faster but the 390 feels more compact.
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Just lost my father at 92yrs, his last year was in care as he had dementia. It takes away so much and is never easy but just help as much as you can. You have probably helped him in his past years and dwell on that rather than the next year or two!
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You need a compression tester that has a very light spring rate Schrader valve in the bit you screw in to the plug hole. Usually the Gunson Hi Guage is the weapon of choice. The only way of knowing that the Clarke unit is OK is to test it against something like the Gunson unit. If it has the end of the valve sticking out, a very light push should push it in. If it is like a typical tyre valve, it will read low. I modified mine with a presta valve as I was destroying Schrader valves daily on ported saws! If your tester is reading 150-170 on a mid size saw, it is likely to be OK. 80-120 and it is likely to be not suitable.
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That's an interesting one Andrew, how old was it and model? Never seen anything like that before.
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Much of the skill with a metal detector is setting it up to get the best performance and then getting a swing with good coverage whilst getting the head as close to the earth as possible. As a kid I had the cheapest C-Scope but found loads of stuff just because I took the time to get it set right to the edge and using a good technique.
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Relatively easy, a few pots, a dymo and that's about it. I also put in an extra battery as I am running rechargeables, call it metal detector porting!
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I also have a Whites Classic IDX. There was a US guy by the name of "Mr Bill" modding them and picked up the specs so did it myself. They are a pretty useful tool and work at some pretty good depths. They don't work well on wet sand though, got a C Scope pulse induction for that!
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You may have to grind the arms of the puller to fit unless the pawls come off or the flywheel has tapped holes in it for extraction use with a flywheel puller. Go carefully, it is easy to damage flywheels. A sharp crack with a hammer on the puller often shifts it.
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Probably a good call, seal it up and get a new one on order.
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Unlikely, the bearings are roller type with the crank held solidly in place and have never seen issues with the seals. Most likely a carb issue or the engine mount issue which is common in this model. They are pretty good saws TBH!
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It doesn't look like anything from Stihl or Husqvarna will fit, if it is split or perished, it looks like a wait to get it from the States. My old McCullochs had cast induction tubes, I did fit new carb kits, fuel lines and seals. The tanks were full of grott so a flush out is a good idea. I also checked the reed valves but I think your saw isn't reed induction so you should be OK. I also checked the contact breaker timing which is a bit of a learning curve if you are under 40 years!
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I use a home blown method of getting over it....it works and sorts the mount and rubbing issue....and it doesn't cost too much - just part of the service. It is common so if your stop switch stops working - CHECK IT OUT!!!!!
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Had another thought, I have seen a decent quantity of these with failed engine mounts causing the flywheel to rub on the plastic beneath it. It is very possible that this would cause the engine to stall on idle when the saw is on its side due to the extra friction between the flywheel and tank wall beneath it!
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You need to push it in so it sits at the bottom of the tank where the fuel sits when it is in its side. It is more of an issue on 201s and 200s but worth a check. The earth point being loose would stop you turning the saw off. I can't see it stopping the machine like you have. The top engine mount forms part of the kill circuit. If your machine can't be turned off, it is pretty certain that your top engine mount is loose. Check the plug cap is on though, Riches one had a dodgy HT lead on it!
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Either shyte in the carb gauze strainer or possibly more likely, the fuel filter and pipe are out of position in the fuel tank so the fuel filter comes out of the fuel when on its side!
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Reminds me of my workshop......and you want this ported?????
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It is a heavy life in corporate world isn't it, top wages, no stress, big pension It will be a 353....if you look at the top of the cylinder, it isn't a 346XP, that is for sure, it is OEM and therefore it looks like a 353 to me....the top end would be too rare to fit on a 346 bottom end so it is a 353.....Sherlock!! Oh...the caveat - I am but a mere scummy independent working from a shed
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You have done the right thing reporting it, I reckon it is a 353, I would keep it if the saw is in good working order, you will find it difficult to sell now you know it has the serial plate missing so if it is OK, just keep it. It has an OEM top end and that is probably more than a lot of saws out there have.
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Just read ADWs post again, did you mean the handle where it joins under the oil cap? Not sure I have ever seen anything under there.
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Oh dear....not read the whole thread? It is missing!!! Now what do you reckon about it....353 I think! That cylinder is OEM but not 346XP!
