spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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It is possible the key on the flywheel has sheared but more likely that opening up the gap from coil to flywheel may sort it out. Basically your ignition timing has changed slightly and the saw is trying to fire a little earlier causing the kickback. The flywheel key, coil gap, coil malfunction and sometimes a plug gap being lower than spec will effect ignition timing.
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Just resolder the broken connector or a fabricated one on to the coil. Relatively simple job and yes, it would cause the non stopping issue issue. If you want to fit another coil, the HT cable can unscrew from the coil and yes, removing the HT cable isn't a simple job.
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Probably one of those 325s, think they rev to around 12Krpm which is old saw territory and they do sound like saws! Got one myself!
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Of course, all looks good, a few other tweaks and should be a strong runner!
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I would still rather work on a 201! The 540 is one of those machines, too many pipes, lots of types of screws, lots of bits....too complex design! Give me a MS200 any day!
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Just ported a 1996 Stihl 044, had a broken clutch, the drum was getting there and an air leak from the flywheel seal BUT.....it is 23 years old. These parts were most likely the original ones so not a bad list really. The point - most modern machines will probably last 2-5 years but I guess are not an option now
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Get a MS150 and tweak it once run in - nice small, light and cheap. They are surprisingly good once opened up a little! Of the two saws you mentioned, and bearing in mind I don't climb or use one, the MS201TCM is far simpler to work on and less fragile. The T540XP clips are a good design though!
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Just what I get in from local operators and via couriers, interesting you have the complete opposite! Perhaps the difference between Forestry and domestic/commercial operators in the south!
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Yay Mark Bolam for PM...Brexit.....no problem
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The OP has already assembled the mechanism so he just needs to take the brake off. I never thought I would say it but.....follow Mark Bolams advice!
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You are talking rubbish! Your method is for the 340, 345, 350, 346, 357 and more. The 560 has a different type of mechanism. Sorry
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From what saws, brush cutters, blowers and trimmers I get in I would say Stihl to Husqvarna is circa 10:1 to 15:1.....what do other repairers find?
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I would say it was more to do with Electrolux taking them over and changing the direction of the brand from pro use in to home owner use. I guess they thought it would increase their sales or perhaps the Germans and Swedes were giving them a battering. Loads of big American saw companies went that way - Homelite, Pioneer to name two!
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I wouldn't like it spread on my toast
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Look.............. it is like this, some like marmite and some don't, some like Stihl and some like Husqvarna, that's life and you will never be able to prove one way or another - just read the old threads on here. From someone who services saws and has seen old new, battered and pristine, both manufacturers have made good and bad models, some early releases of saws have been diabolical and have had obvious design or manufacturing issues but won't go in to that. Both have made saws that we all know to be reliable and solid workhorses so neither is really better than the other but would say that I do get more Stihl kit in for repair and put this down to their products being more popular rather than being less reliable.
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Husqvarna had the first AT units - on the 576 I believe! I thought Stihl purchased the rights to that system just as Husqvarna changed over to another system - ADW will be around soon to correct us all! Not sure I would call the first MS201s a classic - classic door stop perhaps Husqvarna - 254, 346, 372, 395 Stihl - MS260, MS460, MS660, MS200 Take your pick, both make good saws, the early 261s had big crank issues but the Mtronic ones now seem OK, the 550XP had heat problems and has now been redesigned to sort them!
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You would be better off asking if anyone has a 201T that works OK rather than what you asked. The 201T was never a good saw and has now had a few modifications from the manufacturer. What year is it? I would suspect one of the early ones around 2013 as they were dire. In the early days, a hole in the muffler was the best solution although there are a number of other things you can do to get them working well.
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That's gone and done it.....bit like asking what is best, Pizza Hut or Dominoes, both have made good kit and some utter shyte - that is Stihl and Husqvarna not the fast food outlets!
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I saw the one in Great Yarmouth had gone, I believe they named their outlets after my business
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Cars - more reliable, faster and safer Motorcycles - Faster, don't leak oil, handle better TVs - more reliable, better picture etc. Mobile Phones - smaller, thinner, faster, better.... Sure - I do agree on many items, I hate it when something is made so cheap it barely meets its designed function!
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Stihl and Husqvarna are manufacturers, as such, they will try to use the same parts on as many of their machines as possible, they will try to simplify the manufacture of the machines, the parts will be made to a specification but will of course, be manufactured as cheap as possible. This is so they can make products to meet end user cost expectations and make a bigger profit....simple commercialism.
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Good luck with that
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Mmmm, interesting, had this on a Stihl blower once, would idle perfectly but as soon as the revs increased, that was it. Must have been the ramp up circuit on the ignition advance kicking in and killing the spark as if you feathered it, it would run low revs but sounded really lumpy and rough. Try to get hold of an original coil if it is this as the aftermarket ones can be pretty bad. You can do the old...bend the end electrode out and see if it will jump a big gap, the blower one did jump a big gap but yours is different, have had coils produce a couple of sparks and then nothing so a possible cause.
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As Stubby said, sounds like the saw is getting enough fuel to fire but not enough to run. Common culprits, fuel line split, fuel filter blocked, gauze strainer blocked, pump diaphragm split, metering arm not set well, hard diaphragm etc It is also possible that the piston has nipped up and dropped the compression off but less likely.
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Did we ever sort the issue, so much going on and not sure if between insults, hugs, bollox and brexit that we actually got there If we did, I suggest we talk about toilets....those German inspection ones....what are they about, best thing to do is sit backwards on them
