spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Good point on the oil pump bow, had that happen and caught it on a MS660, similar effect!
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I think I may have done 1 or two in my time The most memorable was for a guy that worked for Husqvarna but not going to say any more on that one
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If the bearing has that much play on it that the lobes are contacting the cases, I would check for scuffing of the cylinder as the movement of the crank tends to push the piston up the bore at an angle and this can wear the plating off the bore pretty quick!
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Are we saying that the Chinese coil has bitten the dust? You are more likely to get a spark with a smaller gap but it is probably toast - that is why they cost so little Send it back to the supplier if it is faulty.
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You could get your original carb sorted, if only we knew someone who could do such work! Other than that, L&S but the price is £90 ex VAT for the original part!
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Blade, is this like Zorro - the gay blade. I always thought they were bars or perhaps I am missing the humour
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if it works without the bar on then doesn't with the bar fitted, it would generally be the oil hole in the bar that is blocked - worth checking again. If it is clear and it still doesn't oil then it sounds like either the pump is plugged, the pickup is blocked, the worm is stripped or the pump has worn. It is usually a case of stripping all the bits out, inspecting them and replacing whatever isn't right.
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sounds like a bearing cage has collapsed - surprising it didn't take out the cylinder. Simplest way of finding out is to pull the seals and look but you will only see anything if the seal is a large one. The flywheel side one is mounted in a mounting plate, I think the other one may be in the oil pump! Better than stripping the bottom end.
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Those Chinese carbs are a bit suspect, they have left off the small cut out in the throttle valve and it cocks up the low speed carb setting. The original carb has probably got issue as why else would you buy a Chinese one? So - either try your bevvy of carbs out on a known good saw or try a carb from a known good saw on your one. The other things that would be worth checking - muffler off and inspect the piston through the exhaust port. If this is a bit technical then get the saw hot and do a compression check. The other is to get an old plug, bend the end electrode away from the centre one and test the spark by pulling the saw over with a slower than starting pull and you should get a good cracking spark of the plug when connected and grounded on the muffler or cylinder. I am baffled as to why I get so many 200s in and then again.....perhaps I am not
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Sorry Josephine, I will be less eloquent in future and call parts "doofas", "thingies" and "whotsits" just for you
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It was a very valid suggestion and may well be correct!
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Is that what we are talking about....bloody hell you can get them anywhere!
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Probably a big ol air leak. Normal suspects are impulse line or the intake manifold........but what do I know
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Out of stock at L&S but phone them and get them to advise a lead time. They are always pretty good IMO.
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My one looked OK but stripped it down and looked a bit crappy so changed it and bingo....running trimmer. It is worth oiling the blades as well as sometimes they bind and makes the operator think the machine is underpowered.
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The fact the issue is still there with all the clutch assembly off the machine tells me that the carb has a few issues or the piston has nipped up. You need to look at the piston through the exhaust port and if that is OK, strip and inspect the carb checking the main components.
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Received and answered. Thanks
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Try changing the fuel filter, just done one and it had similar issues and it was the fuel filter. Don't buy a new ignition coil as it costs £££ and wastes £££ if it isn't faulty!
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Cornwall, Huntingdon, Oswestry.....and the 390......Kent
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Trouble is that it is where the saw gets a few knocks and is likely to damage anything stuck on.
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Well I thought so but you have me thinking
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Now a RingPuffer
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Just ordered a Spannklammer......ding dong!
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OK, sounds like it is leaking between the mating surfaces. Next thing to do is to work out where the screws are that provide the clamping action between the two crankcase halves and to torque them down hard - don't go mad to the point they snap but tighten them. If it still leaks then...you are buggered - bottom end split, new gasket and rebuild. A lot of expense in there and a relatively big job for someone. If part of the gasket hasn't been sucked in to the tank then it should reseal but if it has been pulled in then it will be almost impossible to push back in to the gap and re-clamp. I have had some success re-tightening older 560XP cases - the 461s are generally OK but this would be my course of action!
