spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Its a bit like the Amazon ratings and trip advisor, you look for the products with a very positive 4 and 5 skew on the ratings. There is always the odd nutter that comes out of the woodwork slating something for obscure and bizarre reasons but if 80% of reviews are positive, the product or service must be half decent. The best way to gauge how good a business is, is how much repeat business the company gets, how many positive reviews it gets and also, how they respond if something goes wrong. With the internet, a bad business would now find it damn difficult to survive unless operating outside of the law! Never used Northern Arb so can't judge them!
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There he goes again
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Sounds like my days in sales where we were told by the German manufacturing part of our company that we would get product in 6 months. You get caught out once or twice but then just add 6-12 months and invariably, that was correct. Time will tell when the new product or products are available but until then, if you need a saw of a certain size, you have to look at what is available and in stock to make your choice....simple!
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Yes, ported saws are a bit different but I tend to tune them within 500rpm of the max to be safe. The spark plug colour has the final say!
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No, just pulling your leg
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I think you should buy one before telling him
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You did that on a 390XP
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Ah - won't be long - is that in the lifespan of the common Mayfly or the history of the earth?
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Bugger me - that's Matty F on a big lump of beech Nice evening out!
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I found burying the complete bar in woods like oak would do it. As others have said, turn up the oiler, you could try thinning the oil a bit if it is a bit gloopy and the weather is cold. There is only one oil pump on the IPL BUT two pump pistons, the one that should give more oil is the Australian spec -1122 647 0602 rather than the normal 1122 647 0601 UK/US version - you will need to strip the oil pump apart and fit the new piston but it may be an answer on the longer bars.
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I never realised chainsaws were such big polluters, I would have thought planes, trucks, cars and dodgy factories were as there are more of them and are running all the time they are in flight/on the road etc. I was always told to look at the big figures because in the big figures, there are easier gains to be made but what do I know. Looks like we will soon have loads of trees to do work on but nothing to cut them down with, perhaps harsh language would do it!
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I know that owning a Stihl 009 and a couple of vintage McCullochs, I was being tongue in cheek comparing the latest technology with the old vintage bangers but the same advantages! Obviously a bit too subtle.
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Like a reed valve then?
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Not that big bird that was flogging the burgers and coffee?
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Sounds like poop to me as well!
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Sounds like a reasonable Idea to me, may need to make up a stud with a plate on it or some sort of washer on the inside of the tank and bond it in to the hole with a bit of epoxy but may just work fine.
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Fortunately, the other 200 the guy has in was sweet, decent machine and now very nice!
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It will be safe and not cause any issues if you take that out and should make an improvement.
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0.02" is 0.5mm, no drama. You need to move the gasket from the cylinder to the crankcase and see how different the cylinder lower transfers are to the crankcase opening and then gauge if you can open the lowers to improve flow and resistance. Some high revving saws don't like too much opening as it kills transfer velocity but from your picture, you are looking at small amounts In an ideal world, you could split the crankcase and attach one half to the cylinder and see and feel the differences that can be blended but don't get that chance too often. Like Wes says, ring ends, free porting, skirt width, bevels are all dangerous areas to the uninitiated and need to be understood before you grind metal on an expensive top end!
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Yes, no other option, full strip, split and rebuild!
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Does the drum have a bit of end float on it - in and outy movement as it should? All OEM parts?
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Not a great day, noticed that the clutch drum had a bit too much end float BEFORE the clutch was removed, everything looked fine, went to put it back after rebuild and crunch, this happened. Have had the flywheel side go a bit like this on another MS200T but looks like it has been fractured for a while and that little light grey bit was the only part holding it together as it is the only clean bit that hasn't oxidised. Bad, bad, bad got another OEM part on its way!
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Have you not got it meshed with the oiler pinion correctly?
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No need, nice and gleaming again.......I did take it you did meant photos of the saws
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0.5mm and make sure all the carbon is off before measuring!
