spudulike

The woman was probably some nobby type that didn't like being told what to do although she was trespassing as were her dogs and your mate had a legitimate gun and right to be on his own property. I would guess no one who has any interest in dogs would shoot one with an air rifle anyway as it would be almost impossible to do anything apart from wound it and it is always the owners who are the real issue! Hope the police get to the truth and she gets nicked assuming the version we got was factual....not doubting you Andy but you know how these stories can get embellished!

Caught one in a mole trap once, thought the nest entrance was a mole trap and got one of the buggers in it.

Praise the Lord, glad it is now OK, probably the carb cleaner sorted the check valve - glad it worked out the easy way!

Trying your mates one does sound like a simpler option to me, I am guessing not many have changed check valves in their time!

You are entering an area where not too many techs get anywhere close to going and that worries me as I don't know your abilities. You may be better trying to fit another known good carb to your saw to prove the issue is the carb and not something else. The check valve is where I said it was before!

Wrench the Low screw one upwards and drill the H screw peg - not that easy but not too bad....you sure you want to?

Glad the compression is where it needs to be tbh.

I didn't take it that way and know the industry is in a state of flux with new technologies coming in to counteract the emission laws and the OEMs getting more and more protective over their industry and is a shame they don't train their people in a better way but guess with many it is learning because they are TOLD to rather than WANTING to.....big difference! Personally, I will be OK whatever occurs and this latest chapter in my life, doing what I do is an interesting one.

No offence seeing it is Christmas!

Turns out I was reading the inside of the gun son which is mpa, outside is psi and it has around 160-170 psi Oh dear, could you change your username to T*at

I like O Holy Night and Come O come Emmanuel at this time of year but if we have to bring it down, I quite like this when it came out....

Mmmm, only changed a handful of carbs over the last few years as I tend to fix them....strange that. I reckon you have solved it as a blocked gauze strainer will lean the saw down giving lack of power and poor idle.

It will help but it must have been running lean rather than rich!!! Make sure you flush your fuel tank and check your fuel can as they probably have a bit of chip inside them! Reckon it will be fine now!

I like my X27 coz I am a bit lanky but do find a ported saw gets through the knotty bits rather well and in spring time, the noodles give the birds some nesting material!

Seeing as I started my business to ease me in to an early retirement and since then have had enough work for close on seven days a week I am not approaching your "big problem" but mu success is a direct reflection on how people round here view the local dealer service. Time will tell and am not that deluded to not realise the impact the battery powered kit and fuel injected atotune kit will have on non franchised outfits that don't sell new kit.

Looks like Cash Convertors didn't know what the kit was or offer anything for it!

It is pretty obvious that OEMs want to just have their dealers doing the work on their machines judging by their reluctance on releasing IPLs, making their autotune devices unavailable to end users or non franchised companies etc etc. Most of the guys near me can't wait 3 months while the local dealer sits on their machines and then find they haven't been touched. Better to have a bloke in a shed who is focused on getting it back, working correctly and in a timely manner than a dealer prioritising all his better staff on the big stuff and putting the inexperienced on the hand tools!

This statement is pretty offensive in my opinion. It assumes that only highly experienced Stihl technicians could ever service the new complex machines. Last week I got a KM130 in that had been bounced to and fro from a "Stihl Agent". It came to me not revving out and having a list of items changed including rings, valves ground in, fuel lines, fuel filter and a "genuine Stihl carb". I don't know what was charged but it wasn't going to be cheap! Well, this "man in a shed" found that the highly trained Stihl technicians don't understand how to set the valve timing on these machines and was lucky it hadn't crunched the valves. The agent also liked to maximise profits by taking an aftermarket carb, removing the top and bottom covers/primer and putting them on the aftermarket POS making it look like an OEM carb. The only issue was the carb wasn't the issue in the first place and the aftermarket one had some issues making it damn difficult to get a good tune on it...oh, and no accelerator pump giving lag on the pickup off idle. I have two reports on one local dealer charging for work not done from my customers....not good. I am sure there are some good ones out there but some of the stuff I find is pretty appalling - MS200T, chain brake band almost through on a fully serviced £300 rebuild.....not good on a saw used up trees where injuries are damn difficult to deal with. Similar happened with cars a few years back and manufacturers were legislated to put OBD2 interface ports in their new cars!

All strato saws should be run on better quality synthetic oils, I have explained why. Red was fine when saws were of standard normal construction but now the strato saws use significantly less oil, you need a better oil. The colour makes sod all difference, it is the specifications of the oil that matters. The choice is yours, do you feel lucky.....?

Yes, that is why I keep a varied amount of gasket paper in stock. It helps fixing damaged carb gaskets and very useful to get a good squish reading.

Yank on it till your eyes water.....what were we talking about....oh yes, compression.....yank on it hard 5-7 pulls, until the needle doesn't rise any more. The first pull should make around 70-100psi on a healthy saw. The rough guide is that a hard first pull will be half of the final compression after 5-7 pulls. The 10mm adaptor will strip off around 15-20psi so bear that in mind.

The Gunson gauge is OK and fit to measure the compression of small engines unless they have changed the type of valve they use lately. You are measuring the compression with 5-7 fast pulls on the recoil handle aren't you? The results on another decent machine will be interesting. Fine dirt in the gauze filter is a common issue, probably worth flushing your fuel tank to ensure it doesn't have any chip in it and check your fuel can as well.

Crazy dude......you smooth talker! I just like to test the theory of statements I don't believe and in this case, it was a load of bowlocks - should have used a glass full of something alcoholic I wasn't proving a point, more proving that what I thought sounded a bit iffy was in fact very IFFY! 120 is well low and even when damn hot it should pull late 130s or early 140s! Cold it should be 150-170 IMO! The issue is either with the saw or the method of measurement - just need to find out which and move on!

I usually test the squish with the carbon removed and then produce a custom gasket to give optimal compression and squish clearance.

This saw has only been out for a few months, how come they have come in for work if they are still under warranty and ultra reliable???