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Bogieman

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  • Location:
    Aberdeenshire
  • City
    Huntly

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  1. I have 3 Transit tippers insured with Direct Line. I find them consistently cheaper than anything that the comparison sites produce. Like their owner, the trucks are not in the first flush of youth (2008, 2011 and 2013). All with 3 named drivers and limited to 7000 annual miles, carrying own goods (firewood logs, they’re mine until they’re tipped). Latest renewals in the past month were £308 and £366, both up around 50% on the previous year. The other was £313 back in August, so who knows what it will be at renewal? Luckily I’ve never had a claim, so can’t comment on the level of service.
  2. I’ll give my vote to Charnwood. My CW50ib is now 33 years old and apart from a replacement throat plate every 3 years or so and an annual renewal of the stove ropes it has never needed any spare parts, not even firebars. It burns approximately 8 hours per day for around 9 months of the year (this is NE Scotland!) and supplies ample domestic hot water as well as heating 7 or 8 radiators. As a boiler stove, this model is no longer in production but the company certainly is, and in the unlikely event of ever needing a replacement they would be top of my list.
  3. I find it a bit odd that the tree in Belgium appears to have already lost most of its leaves while those in my garden in Aberdeenshire are still in full leaf, only showing signs of turning in the past week. Different varieties perhaps? Mine have yielded better this year than in any of the previous thirty or so that they have been growing, and the nuts themselves are also fuller and better filled than ever. Maybe climate change or maybe just maturity.
  4. I turned 78 last week, and have my Transit tipper insured fully comp with Churchill for £226.16. This is a farm vehicle, mainly used for firewood delivery, with myself as main driver and two other named drivers. Unfortunately it's currently got a snapped timing chain. No insurance cover for that!
  5. Sounds like the solenoid is on the way out. Tipping up is via the hydraulic pump, while coming back down is purely by gravity, the solenoid opens a valve and hydraulic fluid flows from the ram back into the reservoir, driven by the weight of the bed. If the solenoid fails completely and you're stuck with the body tipped there's two options, either slacken off the pipe and lose the fluid or else apply a really strong magnet (like a magnetic welding clamp) to the outside of the solenoid, which should open the valve and allow the bed to descend. Long term, replace the solenoid.
  6. Doesn't sound like a typical solenoid failure, but rather than opening the pipes you could try applying a strong magnet (something like a welding clamp one) to the side of the solenoid, which should open the release valve. The ram goes up by pressure from the pump but comes down purely by gravity when the release valve is opened.
  7. The fleet. 117 years in total between them and still more than earning their keep, working most days. The Ford 3000 is a 1973 and spends most of its time on the firewood processor, while the 1980 IH is the log loader tractor. It’s an industrial spec 584, I think the designation is 258 and it differs from a standard agricultural 584 in having a speedometer and a handbrake that operates on conventional drums rather than the usual IH transmission job. So, a Nash with a handbrake that actually works! The Case IH 956 is the baby of the bunch, born in 1987. It lives on the timber trailer, hauling lengths from the stack to feed the processor. Oh, and the Transit adds another 16 years. You’ll notice I don’t do shiny!
  8. Good link, Spud. I reckon it's a DD.8F, but whether a Mk II or III I'm not sure. That puts it between 1957 and 1970. Were they really still making that beast in 1970? Either way, still a lot younger than me!
  9. Dropped by to see a friend earlier today and found him tinkering with this impressive old Danarm. Direct coupled, no anti-vibration mountings, no chain brake mechanism and, judging by the bark, no baffles in the exhaust either! It belonged to his wife's uncle and has been laying below the bench for a lot of years, but after a bit of fettling it fired up and performed according to specification. Any suggestions as to its vintage?
  10. Hi Bogieman, saw you post re WP36 gearbox. Sorry we have been so hard to get hold of. It does not help you but our parts chap got head hunted and we have not been able find a worthwhile replacement. Still interviewing etc, it's really frustrating to let people down and we are trying our best to get back to everyone asap. But truth is we are struggling.  I did speak to Pete at Strathbogie forest & garden about this gearbox so I don't know why he has not got back to you. I explained we have never split a gearbox and Farmi's answer was to fit a new gearbox. We have them on the shelf but I appreciate you may want to save some loot and try and repair the old box.  Rgds, Stephen Cabrol. Riko UK Ltd.

    1. Bogieman

      Bogieman

      Hi Stephen, 

      Yes, I was aware that you were having some staffing problems.

      Pete and Bob at Strathbogie have been doing their best to help, in fact the gearbox and pump is with them just now. Fitting a new gearbox would be a solution, albeit an expensive and unnecessary one as we can easily fit new bearings, they're simply standard open ballraces, but the major problem at the moment is the fact that we can't separate the pump from the box.The hollow splined shaft which takes the drive from the gearbox to the pump has been machined down at both ends to fit inside the bearings, and is attached at the pump end by an internal bolt. So far it has proved to be impossible to find a socket with a thin enough wall to fit inside the shaft and loosen this nut. Strathbogie don't have one, and neither do I. They have been in touch with the pump manufacturers to see if they have any suggestions. No doubt Special Tool No. abcxyz999!

      They have done this job on previous occasions, but have never come across this problem before, the shaft has always been free to move, not bolted in place. Turning down a splined shaft to fit into a ballrace seems an odd engineering practice, why not use either bearings that fit the shaft or a shaft that fits the bearings in the first place? It almost seems as though they just use whatever happened to be on the parts shelf at the time, so that no two machines are necessarily the same.  Shades of old Massey combines!

      Once the box was split, incidentally, it became obvious why the bearing had gone.  No oil!! The machine is about 3 years old, and I must admit I've never checked the gearbox oil level. Presumably it was full when new, otherwise we'd have been at this stage a long time ago. I never saw any sign of oil leakage, but there is a theory about where it went. The oil level plug on the side of the box doubles up as the breather, so is it possible that the oil, when hot, exited via the breather? It could have done so very gradually over the years and mingled unnoticed with the sawdust. At any rate the box will be getting refitted with the filler and breather plugs swapped over, and the level checked on a regular basis.

      Hopefully back in production shortly.

    2. Spinner

      Spinner

      The pump is held onto the box by four bolts. The pump shoukd then just pull off.  The tapered pump shaft has a male spline coupling that is held pn by a 8mm(?) Nut and tab washer.  This male spline slides into a femail spline in the gearbox. It sounds like you have been unable to pull the pump off the gearbox because the male spline coupling is solid inside the femai coupling? And you are now trying to undo the 8mm nut though the femail spline, from the inside face of the gearbox? 

      I cant see how it could run for 3 years with no oil, but.....

      Can you email [email protected] with a couple of pictures of the inside of the box to show lack of oiL.  Please state serial number. I will forward to Farmi to see if they will supply a gearbox FOC. Its worth a try, you never know.

       

      Nb. Please don't reply to me via arbtalk as I find it all but impossible to use, hence not beeing aware of your post.  I think the new arbtalk layout stinks and is far from user friendly compared to its old user friendly workings.

  11. Anybody?? I've detached the pump from the gearbox but can't get enough clearance to get them far enough apart to get the pump off the internal shaft, which seems essential before the box will come out, and even then it looks as though it'll be a struggle. I've been in touch by phone with both my local supplier and Riko, and been promised a call back, but so far the only response is silence. I wish Farmi would supply a workshop manual, the instruction/parts book that came with the machine isn't much help.
  12. Our WP36 is howling like a banshee, the multiplier gearbox which takes the drive from the tractor PTO to the pump has obviously run a bearing. It's going to have to come off and be stripped. Just wondering if anyone has done this job before and can give me some tips? It looks as though the first job is to separate the hydraulic pump from the gearbox (four Allen screws with limited accessibility) since there's no way I can see the box coming off with pump attached. Even then it's going to be a fiddle. I just hope that I can get away without dismantling half the machine! Tomorrow morning's job.
  13. Interestingly, the advice to burn only hardwood and specifically to avoid pine seems to be confined to the UK version of the Jotul website. If you go into https://jotul.com/ and choose any country other than the UK there is no such advice. (Use Google translate) I blame Brexit!
  14. We're lucky enough to have the use of two fairly large open-fronted, concrete floored sheds with spaceboarded gables. Our home-produced roundwood is stacked in the yard for a couple of years before being processed, then tipped and spread out on the shed floors until dry matter is under 20% before going into store, all bulk handled by tractor and grain bucket. The only slight drawback is harvest, when some of the space is temporarily commandeered by the arable side of the business for dropping barley prior to drying or (hopefully) sale direct to the maltsters. Still, the whisky is worth the hassle!

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