spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I call them feckers if they don't spark!
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I take it that the machine isn't the TCM Mtronic version? First thing to do is to put it running on the ground with the brake on, stick your foot on the white engine top and then flex the handle around to see if that kills it. If it does it may be a wiring issue or hose issue depending if the saw dies immediately or revs go up and down a bit. If the saw only dies under load, check the gauze strainer as the most likely issue. If you think it is the kill circuit, take the recoil cover off and disconnect the kill wire from the coil and try again.
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Are you sure it isn't the contact breaker..............what year are you from, we are on coils, ignition modules and Autotune, the days of condensers, trigger units and contact breakers are gone unless you are running vintage kit,
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Common fault on the older 560s, as previously mentioned, locate all the crankcase bolts on the flywheel side and crank them up as tight as possible but avoid stripping the thread or snapping the bolts. Done a couple like this and seemed to work OK.
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I think he has "a vision in his head", if you can get an image of that, I am fooked
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Sod the top handle, where can I get hold of the hottie, got lots of saws that need polishing I think the OP said NO to wanting a top handle so it is a smaller ground saw I believe!
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If you look at the original fitment of the bearing in the case, you should be able to tell how far the bearing needs to be pushed in to the cases. You could use a set of verniers to measure the critical measurements. It may be an issue but if you are aware of it and have the confidence to do this sort of repair then you should be OK.
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Typically the bearings go in to the cases and then the crank goes in to those, the exception being clam style engines of which this isn't one. I haven't split a 61 but ADW is a fair bit older than me so am sure he will be along soon with his old man tales
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As ADW says, get the multi meter out and check for continuity. You may find someone has fitted a non generator flywheel or the magnet has detonated - also possible that the handle or tank have been swapped out, just check for the wiring going in to the handles and for the generator - if it isn't there, you don't have heated handles.
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If you have a spark with the saw in its cold and hot state, Try pulling the air filter cover off, look between the air filter back plate and the cylinder on the clutch side and make sure the breather hasn't become disconnected from either end. These machines are a bit rare but have seen this on a couple of them. Symptoms would be a fast idle, screaming a bit at the top end and a tendency to die on opening the throttle. Not what you have but worth a look at...unless that coil has popped!
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Fitting an 8 pin will give you more chain speed but will only be an advantage on a shorter bar or on smaller diameter wood. Explore longer bars or start pushing harder and it will be easier to stall especially on harder or larger wood. I found on a heavily ported 357, that an 8 pin was good up to 8-10" wood, beyond that, a 7 pin was faster on a 15" bar.
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Good point on the oil pump bow, had that happen and caught it on a MS660, similar effect!
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I think I may have done 1 or two in my time The most memorable was for a guy that worked for Husqvarna but not going to say any more on that one
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If the bearing has that much play on it that the lobes are contacting the cases, I would check for scuffing of the cylinder as the movement of the crank tends to push the piston up the bore at an angle and this can wear the plating off the bore pretty quick!
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Are we saying that the Chinese coil has bitten the dust? You are more likely to get a spark with a smaller gap but it is probably toast - that is why they cost so little Send it back to the supplier if it is faulty.
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You could get your original carb sorted, if only we knew someone who could do such work! Other than that, L&S but the price is £90 ex VAT for the original part!
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Blade, is this like Zorro - the gay blade. I always thought they were bars or perhaps I am missing the humour
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if it works without the bar on then doesn't with the bar fitted, it would generally be the oil hole in the bar that is blocked - worth checking again. If it is clear and it still doesn't oil then it sounds like either the pump is plugged, the pickup is blocked, the worm is stripped or the pump has worn. It is usually a case of stripping all the bits out, inspecting them and replacing whatever isn't right.
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sounds like a bearing cage has collapsed - surprising it didn't take out the cylinder. Simplest way of finding out is to pull the seals and look but you will only see anything if the seal is a large one. The flywheel side one is mounted in a mounting plate, I think the other one may be in the oil pump! Better than stripping the bottom end.
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Those Chinese carbs are a bit suspect, they have left off the small cut out in the throttle valve and it cocks up the low speed carb setting. The original carb has probably got issue as why else would you buy a Chinese one? So - either try your bevvy of carbs out on a known good saw or try a carb from a known good saw on your one. The other things that would be worth checking - muffler off and inspect the piston through the exhaust port. If this is a bit technical then get the saw hot and do a compression check. The other is to get an old plug, bend the end electrode away from the centre one and test the spark by pulling the saw over with a slower than starting pull and you should get a good cracking spark of the plug when connected and grounded on the muffler or cylinder. I am baffled as to why I get so many 200s in and then again.....perhaps I am not
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Sorry Josephine, I will be less eloquent in future and call parts "doofas", "thingies" and "whotsits" just for you
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It was a very valid suggestion and may well be correct!
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Is that what we are talking about....bloody hell you can get them anywhere!
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Probably a big ol air leak. Normal suspects are impulse line or the intake manifold........but what do I know
