spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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The bearing is a sealed ball race and would typically be an interference fit on to the shaft so unlikely to just slide off.
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Yes but you need to be a bit beefy to spin one of those engines over fast enough to start them! It is a tad larger than a 181!
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It looks like either the bearing should be a push clearance fit in the crank but has stuck on or more likely, you should use a thin spanner on the clutch and undoing it will pop the bearing off as the clutch unscrews (clockwise - Left Hand Thread). These sorts of jobs usually mean creating a tool for the job which may never be used again but that's life!
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Just remember, they will all cut wood but some make you smile more than others!
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Sometimes it is all that is needed but always feel happier if I have found the route cause!
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I get through around 3-8 of these a week and is rare not to have an MS200T in. I get rare failures when back with the customer and these tend to be where the customer has fitted "the more reliable 020 carb" which tend to be extremely sensitive to adjustment on the L screw and new diaphragms have absorbed fuel and softened! Sure, buying second hand is rife with issues, one of the biggest being that the saw has an aftermarket top end, seen a few of those and strangely, once from a local well known repair shop!
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Yes, it is a bloody MS200T, the only top handle of this size worth having!
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sounds like issues in the metering section of the carb - main diaphragm, spring, needle or metering arm. The gauze strainer in the pump section is also worth checking.
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Environmental vandal (mother in law rant)
spudulike replied to spandit's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
Some good advice on here, my stance would be that if she gets it cut down, she will end up: - 1) On the street 2) Buried under where the hedge stood 3) Being very sorry She owns 30% of the house, therefore only 30% of the hedge is hers so a 30% reduction! Just remind her that you will be choosing her nursing home in a few years time! -
That is some list, two links to Portugal......Vape shop......weird.......hope Ireland is treating you well, bet you are enjoying all the talk about the elusive "Backstop" and the Irish border...Yawn!
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First of all, don't get hung up on bar length, a 14" bar on an MS260 would be nice, a 16" acceptable, 18" wouldn't be nice and remember, you can walk round the other side to complete the cut on the rare occasion you need to. An 18" on a small saw would be boggy and knock the balance off. A good MS260 would be a good hop up on the 181 as it is a pro saw and are generally pretty robust. You would need to ensure it has an OEM top end as many have been lashed with Chinese ones after seizing but I still get good ones in for service every now and then.
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Sprockets last a long time and generally people are lazy or uninitiated and don't bother changing them until I get my hands on them. You can reduce the wear on the rim or sprocket by learning to adjust chain tension correctly and ensuring the oiler is putting enough oil on the bar. I usually change spur sprockets once the spur has indentations on the ends of the lobes - not really worth not doing whilst the saw is in bits!
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Bermuda I reckon!
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Worth trying pulling the kill wire off it then pulling it over again as £70 for a new one is a tad eye watering!
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Where ya been bud, not Madera again? Been a long time!
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I have had the blower coils fail, just make sure you try the spark with a big 5mm+ gap, a normal gap and always check the spark in subdued light with a bloody hard pull. If that doesn't work then it is new coil time
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Pressure check the carb. The throttle being open or closed will have no effect on the carb leaking fuel through to the cylinder.
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The port size would need to be made smaller with carbon - 1/4 of its size would make a difference - mostly an issue on hedge trimmers and strimmers. My bench is rammed and rammed full again!!!
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Quite a bit: - Fuel starvation - carb issue, split fuel or impulse line, blocked fuel filter, blocked breather. Lack of compression through wear or partial seize Spark/coil/plug/HT issues, kill wire partially shorting Blocked muffler, carboned exhaust port Flywheel key failing causing ignition timing to be retarded slightly Blocked air filter Split inlet manifold Choke partially sticking on There may be more but there you go! If the saw has good compression, the carb is the next most likely failure but if it is a known good carb then it is a toss up between failed rubber parts and HT issues.
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Change the 10mm ones far more often than 14mm ones as they seem to fail more often. I tend to replace if the plug is playing up or the aluminium connector thread has gone.
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That's worn and needs replacing as the sprocket lobes are showing indentations, many run them further but that is their choice!
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Not sure where that leaves us. The fault gets sort of better with swapping the carb but the saw has no power??? It is possible it has two faults, that one makes life interesting when diagnosing. Inspecting lines visually is pretty hopeless, you must plug one end and put a bit of pressure on them with a pop off gauge or pressure tester. if the impulse has come loose then that can cause this issue as can a blocked fuel tank breather and a split fuel line. If you move a good carb from a healthy machine and the revs race then it sounds like an air leak but am not 100% you have done this. You should have 95% of the carb set if set up on another machine. A bit random this fault! Those impulse lines can come off the union on the crankcase cylinder base.
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The melting seal, you need to make sure the seal is driven home fully and the thin shim washer has to be fitted to keep the oiler pinion from contacting the seal.
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Bark looks like Poplar to me but what do I know
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OK, sounds like it is running rich, make sure the choke flap valve is opening fully, make sure the air filter is clean, the H screw should be one turn out if the limit cap has been removed and if it is still bad, I would suspect a leaking check valve so a deep Ultrasonic clean may be in order.
